demosan

Chaz2, +1 on RFM comments. Bring your car to a aircon specialists t orecharge system and inform them you have installed new components. It VERY important that the system is purged of all moisture ( water vapor) before charging with new R134A. At the same time, they can pressure test the system before revharge to ensure there are no obvious leaks before recharge. Demosan

Raymond, You are putting us on right?? Pleeeeze, if you want to use your Pcar for any wedding heroics, get it detailed and let the limo bear the brunt of the decorating hysteria!! That said, enjoy the day and the best to you and your SO!! :cheers: demosan

Joe, thanks for the info on your alternator replacement. I am curious as to whether the rebuild you had done included a new voltage regulator ( I believe it is integrated into the back of the alternator) or was it only a mechanical rebuild of replacing bearings?? Regards, demosan

James, Loren's last post with the link for radio user manuals post apparently was posted as I was constructing my response to your original post. Sorry for the confusion. My instructions were from my Trafficpro manual, as I replaced my original head unit in my 02 C4S wit hthe trafficpro navigation a year or so ago and assumed the manual was same as Cr/CDR 220 head unit and it appears it may not be. Therefore my instructions in my last post may be bogus :censored: My bad and as always Loren appears to have you on the right track!! Demosan

James, If I understand what you are trying t odo is simply display the program type on your radio display, then here is the way the manual describes the process. It is only on FM bands here in the states that the RDBS info is available ( and not on all channels). Steps are as follows, although I must preface my instructions as from someone who never has completely understood all the functionality that is available in the Becker headunit, so I urge you to get a user manual to validate all the various display settings you have available. I ahve ssen them on ebay. To simply display program type on your display, here is my attempt to get you this feature: 1. Press radio button and get on a FM band. 2. Press the FM key again and then press the multifunction key "Txt" This will display any info from that particular station that is broadcast thru the RDB/RDBS format available for that particular station. When I tried to access this myself on my radio, I found it helpful to find a station that I listened to regularly that I knew broadcasted RDBS info. the Txt button represents Text on the display and will provide you the program type ( i.e. soft rock etc) as well as the artist and song title. I hope this gets you what you are looking for. Good luck!! PM me if you have any other questions and I will attempt to send you appropriate info from my manual. I must say however, the user interface on these Becker head units is NOT intuitive by any standards and anyone who has mastered the whole manual has my respect for sure. I have attempted to use some of the "auto programming" features and have given up many times and simply manually programmed my favorite stations on the HU display. Demosan :cheers:

930, Did you actually buy the car from the P dealership, or did they only do the $310 PPI??? In either case, there is a "peep" hole where you can look at the clutch/flywheel interface and get a reasonable view of the cluch thickness. One would have thought they would have looked at that as well as driving the car and testing the clutch for slippage as part of a $310 PPI. I would definitely go after them and ask for an explanation as to exactly what they did check ( beyond fluid levels etc..). I also bought a 02 C4S a few years ago and had a reputable Indie do the PPI for $230 as I recall and it included a thorough drive and inspection of the drive train on a lift ( they checked to see the front differential was in top order as well as pulling plugs and doing a lead-down test ( in addition to AC and ATC functionality ) as well as fluid conditions. Sounds to me the dealer did a superficial job and I would ensure NOT to ever have any service sone there if you can avoid it. My $.02 !! Hope you have better luck with the car than these firsweeks and I'm sure you will enjoy the C4S. It's a great car!! Demosan :cheers:

Brian, I have noticed when I have jacked the car for various service DIY projects, and the front suspension "hangs" in the air ( with wheel still mounted) the springs can shift position on the upper spring strut seats such that when the car is lowered to the ground the springs then make a sound when turning as the springs are not sitting concentric on the seats ( typically the uppers have been my problem. To remedy for me, I simply jack the car such that I can insure the springs are seated concentriclly and lower the car and all is well ( no more sounds). I have a 02 C4S, but would guess this is an issue of all models?? Good Luck!! Demosan :cheers:

On a more serious note, I have a LoJack in my car and that does not look like the "box" I have. Moreover, the LoJack techs would not mount the box in that area, rather more remote area of the car ( usually close to the battery area in a P-car hidden from clear view.. Does the RCA cable coming either out of the box ( or in) come from the radio antenna?? It may be an RF amplifier to try and get better radio performance from these marginal head-units. If you call LoJack customer service and explain you are the second owner of the car they can use your VIN number to tell you if the car was ever registered in their system as having LoJack. the number is 800-456-5225. Demosan

I doubt it is a relay as these is separate relay for each side and it would be very unlikely they would both we going bad at the same time. CHeck your owners manual and you can see what I mean in the fuse panel/relay lay-out section. Demosan

georgios, Yes those light switch symptoms seem to reflect a switch going bad soon, although it could also be your ignition switch getting flaky. Therefore, to add to Izzy's list, I would suggest getting the plastic replacement portion of the ignition switch ( about $25-$30) and perhaps a spare light switch as well. As a curiosity, will you going to Greece "permenently" or for an ex-pat tyoe of assignment?? In either case, I'm sure you'll enjoy your C4S there. Demosan :cheers:

Dave, Not sure of your model year, however, in my 02C4S these is only one tensioner on the single serpentine belt. The compressor pulley is constantly turning and the internal clutch engages on the compressor when the AC is turned "on". Therefore, there may be a problem with the compressor clutch ( they apprently wear out over time and then you can get a metal-to-metal type of sound. I do not believe the clutch on the compressor is replaceable. Checked Pelican parts and new OEM compressor is part no. 996-126-011-BX-M11 and is listed as $467. Good luck!! Demosan :cheers:

Pete, Is this your original battery?? If it is, then I would bet it is the battery going bad with a shorted cell. Even if it is a replacement, I would guess a cell has gone bad. Easy way t odiagnose is to jump the battery in the car and see if it starts and voltage gauge is back to normal. Good Luck!! demosan :cheers:

How old is your battery?? If your battery is original, this may be the symptoms of the battery getting close to end of usable life. If you don't drive the car daily, do you sue a battey maintainer?? If you have a shop voltmeter, check the battery voltage at the terminals before you drive the car after sitting since lat drive. Should be at least 12.5 volts ( optimum would be 13+). If less, battery may be on last legs demosan

OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.). Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers: do Thanks At the last service in Dec 07. the Porsche dealer reported that a condenser was leaking. I have only just bought the car and the air con works very well. The only thing I saw on one condenser is that it is stained. I am surprised that the AC is still working if it has been leaking for so long. So I dont really know if there is a leak. However I want to get a warranty on the car and this necessiates a 111 point check. I would need to get anything repaired immediately at full OPC prices and am therefore trying to fix anything that they would otherwise pick up. So if I still have working air con, when I change the condenser I will loose all the refrigirent. I was going to get it regassed from a KWIK FIT. Do all shops automatically do all the vaccing out of the system or is that something I need to request? Thanks When the system is operating the refrigerant within the condensor(s) is under a fairly high pressure so I would be surprised if you actually have a leak and yet the A/C is still functional over a reasonably long period of time. I've had another look at it. The condenser has a greasy greenish stain over about half of it. Its quite 'oily'. Thought it could be coolant from the radiator but its definately not leaking coolant and there is no coolant smell. Checked the AC again and thats working fine. This might be a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" may apply. I would leave it alone if the AC is working fine and you don't have any coolant leaking either. I recently cleaned my radiator/condensor area by removing the front bumper and actually found a dead bird trapped between the condensor and radiator on one side in my C4S. Because the grills are so large, it appears it is easy for just about anything as far as road debris to get collected there, i.e. so getting a stain of some sort may mean nothing is wrong. demosan

If you find it is not the bulb, then swap the left and right headlight relays in the fuse block. they are identical. Good luck!! demosan

OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.). Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers: do Thanks At the last service in Dec 07. the Porsche dealer reported that a condenser was leaking. I have only just bought the car and the air con works very well. The only thing I saw on one condenser is that it is stained. I am surprised that the AC is still working if it has been leaking for so long. So I dont really know if there is a leak. However I want to get a warranty on the car and this necessiates a 111 point check. I would need to get anything repaired immediately at full OPC prices and am therefore trying to fix anything that they would otherwise pick up. So if I still have working air con, when I change the condenser I will loose all the refrigirent. I was going to get it regassed from a KWIK FIT. Do all shops automatically do all the vaccing out of the system or is that something I need to request? Thanks Here in the US, it is mandatory that the AC center evacuate the system before doing any work. Not sure in the UK, but would guess the same process would apply.Then if repair is made, they need to pull vacume again before regassing the system with refridgerant. As I mentioned earlier, it might be to your advantage to pay for a diagnostic dye to be added to your system to validate what is really wrong ( if anything). the "stain" your reference on one condenser may not be a leak at all. Most car dealers here in the US use AC shops to do this type of work rather than do it themselves as it requires special equipment and licensing. On the optimistic side, you may not have any leak at all if the AC still works fine and the dye check would be well worth the money as it will provide you with the exact problem ( if any) and documentation you could share with the P dealer in getting your warranty. Demosan

OBD II, Not sure how you have determined you have a bad condenser, but if you go to a generic AC shop they will usually put dye into your system and then use a ultravilolet lite to see where the dye has leaked out t odetermine which component or connection is "bad". In the P-car system, it logically is likely that one of the condensers has a leak as they are vunerable to road debris build-up that can cause some corrosion or possibly a rock damaging the condenser coil. If you already have gone thru the dye check routine to determine the leaky condenser, then you are well on your way to avoid replacing parts that may be OK. There are often time neopreme o-rings in the threaded connections that can also go bad and are a lot cheaper to replace than the condenser or other discreet components ( dryer, etc.). Good luck with your diagnosis and repair. demosan :cheers:

Yeah, that's probably it. Last weekends little trip(constant 80+mph) probably wore off just enough rubber to make the hum. The rears are not bald but the tread is way worn. Thanks much. bc, Another way to further diagnose it is the tires ( most likely given the wear etc.) is to inflate the tires to 44PSI ( if not alreay) and run for a day to see if the noise changes. If you are already at the 44PSI, then reduce to 38PSI and check for same noise. I would guess it is 99% certain it is the tires. I had the same problem with Pirelli Asymmetrico's when they were ready for replacement. Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

bruce, Could be as simple as electrical connections to the sender being loose/ intermittent. If connections OK, then the sender probably needs replacement. Good luck!! demosan

hiah6, I don't know about the DMV rules in Florida, but here in CA you would never oass the bi-annual smog test without the cats. that is why Porsche has them there in the first place. Demosan

I assume you mean the serpentine belt replacement?? It is scheduled in the 60K major maintainenece, but I would suggest replacing around 40K to be safe. especially in your hot summer climate. The belt is only around $30 and is an easy DYI> Demosan

I would try and use a magnetic part retreiver that has a magnet on the end of a telescoping shaft like an old auto antenna. I have one and think I got it at Harbor tools, but I'm sure sears auto would have them as well as NAPA. Good luck!! demosan :cheers:

No change between oil intervals ( annual or 7500 miles) have an o2 C4S with 30K miles. Demosan

Security Torx ? Security torx bits are the ones that have a small hole in the center of the bit. As their name implies, they are designed to provide some protection for "improper" DIY's getting into trouble. The MAP sensor torx screws fall in to this category in my 02 C4S as I recall. get a set, they are inexpensive and will prevent much frrustration when trying to do some "unscheduled" DIY work. demosan

Not sure how many miles are on your car, but it sounds as if it possibly could be one of the the idler pulley (s) or tensioner pulley. Have you replaced and when?? I think it is a part of the 60K maintenence schedule ( I'm sure the belt is, not sure of idler pulley(s)??). If it happens with the AC off, switch on and see if the noise is still present or does it disappear as the idle speed will change slightly. This would give also point to one of the the ider pulley or tensioner pulley beginning to show excessive wear. There are two idlers and one tensioner pulley as I recall. Cost is about $70 for upper idelr and ~$85 for the lower idler and tensioner pulley. Good luck!! Demosan hey demsan 135,000 miles and the sound is from the transmition.. fredhaz, With 135K on that transmission, has it been serviced at the proper intervals?? I am not a TIP expert by any means as I have had all standards in my PCARS. WIth that many miles, it could be a transmission output shaft bearing, but bringing it to any auto transmission service center could probably do a diagnose for you without going to the OPC. Other TIP experts can probably help you here. I am not sure what extent the TIP transmission can be serviced/rebuilt. Good Luck!! demosan