Jinster

I think I might have to replace the drop links then. Just for my benefit, Loren, is a drop link meant to rotate axially/vertically when you twist it?

ar38070, I know those bushes you are referring to. I don't think my mechanic was referring to those coz they feel very stable to me. There are rubber bushes inside the two ends of the vertical stabiliser bar that appear to have broken down/fragmented/worn out. This seems to be causing vertical stabiliser bars to rotate along its vertical axis very easily if you try to twist it with your fingers. Loren, my car is a 1997 Boxster tiptronic, standard suspension. Thanks.

Graeme, the bushes are fitted inside the holes of the vertical stabiliser bar as far as I can see. Did you just replace the bushes or did you replace the entire vertical stabiliser bar? I checked my PET5 catelogue. There doesn't appear to be a separate item number for the bushes.

We appreciate information like this. You never know when someone might need it. Thank you.

After working on my car for the tiptronic transmission, my mechanic told me that one (or possibly both) of my front anti-sway bar bushings are worn. He quoted me $150 to fix. I figured this might be something I can do myself. But I am unsure as to what a worn bushing actually looks like/feels like/does. I got under the car and traced the front anti-sway bars to its ends, and found a vertical stabiliser bar at each end that connects the FASB to the suspension strut. This vertical stabiliser bar (996 343 069 02) has bushings at each of it's ends. The stabliser bar can be rotated/twisted along its vertical axis. Is this normal or is this what my mechanic meant by worn bushings?

I must say I was very shocked to discover Porsche had used paper cone speakers in their cars.... when you realise that their profit since the early 1990s is about the same as the giant VW, they really could've, and shoud've used better material/parts in their cars. OEM paper cone Comparison with a VDO unit An update on listening impressions: Much much improved sound. Clearer when turned up, base and treble is actually quite separate and distinguishible now when loud. The sound has more "impact" too. It seems to fill the cabin more now than just sound like they are coming from the dash. I would highly recommend anyone with the factory base speakers to upgrade. I can't believe I didn't do this sooner.

I was fed up with the crappy OEM speakers. So this is what I did. Requirements: 1. Hand tools with hex bits and a 90° screw driver 2. speakers 3. solder and soldering iron 4. pliers, scissors, electric drill I initially started with VDO 4'' two-way speakers. But then changed my mind on a shopping spree and bought another set of Jaycar Response Precision speakers. Specs: Factory (Nokia) - paper cone, no tweeter VDO (Siemens VDO) - injected polyproplene cone, PEI tweeter dome Jaycar (Australian brand) - Kevlar cone, titanium tweeter dome, adjustable tweeter angles Unfortunately I had cut up the factory speakers by the time I got the Jaycar units. But I took some photos anyway. Just look at the difference in the size of the magnet (not to mention construction material). The install is relatively straight forward: 1. Remove the grills using a 90° screw driver with a hex bit, it's difficult to get the inner screw out otherwise due the windshield getting in the way. 2. Disconnect the plug and unscrew the two screws holding the OEM speaker 3 At this point, I tested out the two new sets of speakers (VDO and Jaycar). You only need to insert the speaker wire into the factory plug to do this. I took my time here trying to spot the differences between the two new sets of speakers - I decided on the Jaycar units after half an hour of listening because they provided much clearer treble while retaining a strong base. The VDO units were pretty good too - I might use them for a rear speaker project at a later date. 4. If you look at the OEM speaker carefully, you will realise that this is a speaker built into a bracket designed for the grill. I decided to reuse the bracket so that the speakers mount nicely onto the grill and plugs in the dash can still plug into my new speakers when I am done. 5. This means discarding the speaker itself. Cut up the speaker around the rubber surround of paper cone and then pull out the middle coil. The speaker base containing the magnet is severed using a combination of pliers and drills - taking care not to cut off the socket from the bracket - you will need this obviously. 6. Next, tear off the default mounting plates on my new speakers - this results in a 10.2cm speaker with some remaining edges from the mounting plates poking out the side. This fits the OEM speaker bracket perfectly (11cm diameter). 7. Now solder the new speaker wires to the factory socket on the speaker holder. 8. Then mount the speakers in the reverse order of removal. 9. What a difference in sound quality. I was amazed. The speakers sounded good during testing, but actually sounded better after I installed them - I guess that's related to its installation position - the dash space acts as a base amplifier.

Here's the Porsche listing from Quiafe's web site. Porsche - 901 - 911, 914 1969-74 40.309.130 1,395.00 Porsche - 915 Coarse Spline (18T) - 911, 930 1975-77 40.309.140 1,395.00 Porsche - 915 Fine Spline (43T) - 911 1978-86, 930 1978-88 40.309.150 1,395.00 Porsche - G50 - 911 1987 on, 930 5 spd 1989 on, 993, 968 40.309.160 1,395.00 Porsche - 996 40.309.165 1,395.00 Porsche - 944 1986 on including turbo (add'l parts may be required) 40.309.170 1,395.00 Porsche - Boxster 2.5L thru 1998; 1999 > models req add'l parts (call) 10.309.170 1,195.00 See earlier post for Quiafe link. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I assume this is for manual models only?

It is possible that the coolant cap wasn't screwed on tight enough and the coolant overflowed. It will then drip onto the ground from the drain hole next to the coolant reservoir. This explains all your symptoms. An update on my problem: The coolant light slow flash unfortunately came back. It keeps coming on every time the car gets warmed up about 1 minute after the engine fan comes on. I have been driving with the coolant bleeder lifted for 1 week now. Coolant level is fine. Car doesn't overheat.

I have read those from your earlier posts Loren. It would seem that my problem is - dare I tempt fate - solved. I left the coolant reservoir cap off, with the bleeder open, and B1 fuse out last night overnight. Went for a drive today. Didn't get anymore warning lights.... let's hope this lasts. Where did you extract the info about the cooling light from, Loren? I have the Boxster factory manual on CD and a search with the term "coolant" through the entire manual did not reveal the excerpts you quoted. Is it from a 996 manual?

Thanks for the replies. Loren, is it safe to drive the car with air bubbles in the coolant system? I was thinking about draining and refilling the coolant myself. I don't have a vacuum tool. But the porsche factory manual I have didn't seem to state that it requires a vacuum tool. I must have missed it. The manual just says to refill and then bleed like ar38070 says. The other problem was that the factory manual says the tiptronic pneumatic coolant shut-off valve needs to be open for the bleed procedure. This is achieved by pulling out the B1 fuse. B1 fuse also controls the instrument cluster. So I have no instrument display when the fuse is out. Also, how does the warning system pick up trapped air anyway? What I thought strange about all this is that when the engine is warm, but not running, with only the key in the ignition, the light still comes on a few minutes later. When the engine is not running, the coolant is not circulating, so how does the system pick up a coolant anomoly?

I just got my car back from the auto trans specialist after they repaired/re-built the transmission for the second time. Now I have a flashing coolant light. The conditions under which the light comes on is as follows: 1. The light flashes only when the engine is warm - takes around 7 minutes from cold start before the coolant light start to flash. 2. Turning the engine off, and restarting the engine will result in the flash going away at first, but it would start to flash again after about 3 minutes of driving. 3. When the engine is warm, turning the engine off, and then turn the key into the ignition position WITHOUT starting the engine, will also result in the light start flashing some 3 minutes later. 4. When the engine is cold, turning the key to the ignition position without starting the engine will NOT result in the light flashing 3 minutes later. 5. Coolant temperature is normal at the half way mark all the time. 6. Engine compartment fan on the driver's side (RHD, Australian car) is working and sucking in air normally when the coolant is at normal operating temperature. I have already topped up coolant to the Max level and tried to bleed the system by releasing the bleeder bow and the deactivating tiptronic pneumatic coolant shut-off valve by pulling out B1 fuse. In the context of a recent tiptronic overhaul, which required the disconnection of coolant hoses and re-filling of coolant, what do people think is the likely cause for this flashing coolant warning light? TP? Loren? Anyone?

Thanks Jim. I am waiting to hear back from the workshop on this. Just wanted to rant and vent. :)

Well, my tip has been leaking for a few months. It finally got rebuilt with a new casing, took a few months, but the leak is now fixed, by a ZF automatic specialist. As I drove home from the workshop, I park the car to have dinner. After dinner, I reverse the car, and that's it. The car got stuck in neutral and wouldn't budge. I felt that the shifter cable wasn't hooked up as it had no resistance. So back it goes to the auto trans workshop 3AM in the morning, and sure enough, they found that the shifter cable link was broken. Porsche uses plastic items apparently and they break easily. So they fabricated a new link, out of metal, and replaced it. Adjusted the cable length, off I go again. This time, I got about 400m out, did a turn, and lost all driving force. The car felt like it was in neutral, and the 4th gear light came on. I struggled to get the car back to the workshop, and found that I couldn't get the car restarted in park. It would restart in neutral though. So I figured this must be that the shifter cable length needs re-adjustment. The thing that bothers me though, is that I don't seem to have reverse either. If the shift link isn't in the right position, you would think that by moving the shifter lever through its entire range, I would be able to get reverse at some point? But that wasn't the case. The workshop is at a loss at the moment, and they will resume work on it next week. So, $8000 of a repairs/rebuilds later, my tiptronic is still stuffed.... it's just been one disaster after another.... I getting rather desperate. Does anyone know what all this can be due to?

Taking it to the upholstery shop or replacing it with a glass top are all definitive solutions that would cost lots of money. And they are, of course, the best solutions. But tapes and stitches are salvage ideas that could save some money, potentially. If they don't work, you can always resort to replacing the top anyway. Doesn't hurt to try.

That could work. Or why not just pick up a small piece of clear plastic and stitch it in with some nylon? It shouldn't be too noticeable if the crack is near the sim anyway.

93 Octane? In Aussie, the stock specification is 96 Octane or above. And so we all use 98 Octane since the next grade down is 95 here.

Loren, I think you misunderstood me. I have a Boxster with the stock A86 tip. I plan on putting a 3.4L into it. So the direction should be right, right? :) I was merely trying to compare the differences in the strength of the A86 and A96 Tips by finding out the ZF Trans model number of the A96 Tip. The A86 tip I have is Model 5HP19.

Thanks for the replies. Loren, it would be. But I understand that not to be a problem due to the rotation of the 3.4L engine when you replace the stock 2.5L, is that correct? I mean, otherwise all those 3.4L converted Boxsters would be running backwards, tip or not, right? When I was talking to the automatics trans specialist guy, he said that ZF transmissions are basically all the same across all European cars, except for Merc who makes their own transmissions. Otherwise, similarly powered cars use similar ZF transmissions. For example, the VW Passat and Boxster uses exactly the same transmission housings, the only difference would be the gearing - to take advantage of the power curves of each engine. The markings on the outside of the transmission - in the case of the Boxster and Passat - is 5HP19. And he said that number (19), increases as the engine's power output increases. For example, a turbo V6 would use a 5HP23. I have heard stories how the A86 and A96 transmissions are very similar. I was basically wondering what the ZF transmission model number is on the A96, so as to determine, roughly, how much difference is there between the transmissions on the 986 and 996 other than gearing ratios, with a view to see how well the tip transmission would hould up to a 3.4L conversion on a tiptronic Boxster.

My Boxster tip transmission was in for a complete overhaul recently. The owner of the workshop took me on a tour of his facilities and explained a lot to me about how the ZF transmission housing are all the same for similarly powered cars. I am contemplating a 3.4L swap into my Boxster, but I was wondering if my tip would hold up. The Tip transmission model number is 5HP19 on my Boxster. According to the transmission workshop owner, that number should increase as the power requirements get bigger. I was wondering, what is the model number of the tip transmission in a 3.4L 996? It's written on a green plate on the transmission, like shown.

Kdanh, what do you mean by 4X6 plates? Did you mount your Infinity to a custom plastic plate first, and then mounted the plate to the OEM grill or just straight speakers to grill? Do you have a photo of how it's mounted? I am upgrading my POS OEM speakers soon. Appreciate your help. Thanks.

Our tips do have a lock-up convertor. But I have never noticed it. I am not sure if that's what you are experiencing. I have problems with my tiptronic including the flat-spot that feels like a gear change you describe and it's all due to low trans fluid levels due to a leak.

Thanks for the info and offer CW. But I live in Melbourne Australia. I don't think the freight would be worth it.

Thanks TP. I will weigh my 993 rims at next tire change to confirm see how much mine are. Thinking of using something like Volk Racing rims if they are lighter.

Has anyone actually weighed the stock 17'' wheels? I am just wondering how heavy they are and whether an upgrade my reduce the unsprung weight significantly.