Nik, lots of good advice here especially about the amp meter, if you use a volt meter the battery will always give the full 12 volt reading right up until just before the battery is completly dead, starting the engine and getting a 14.2 volt reading does not indicate your alternator is OK, the amp output is the important reading.
The 12 volt car system is not really 12 volts, the alternator will output 15 volts or more, it has to, to get charge into the battery, think of the voltage as a sort of pressure, if the alternator pushed 12 and the battery was 12 it is a sort of stalemate, the push from the alternator has to be greater in order push charge into the battery.
The switch over from battery power to alternator power is to the user invisible but all the time the electronics measure voltages, the alternator powers your car and pushes voltage into the battery when the output from the alternator exceeds 12.7 to 13.3 volts, output depends on rotational speed and load - ie what have you got switched on, the alternator is a complex device it has a series of diodes, (A diode will only allow current to flow in one direction) if a diode goes bad the alternator can draw current and try to behave as if it is an electric motor (it will try to turn itself) this will flatten your battery.
There are 3 fields in the alternator all diode controlled, one can fail but the output with a volt meter connected to the battery will give the impression all is well, what is happening is that a pulse of charge is set up as one of the three fields is not working, voltage will look fine but the amperage output will be severly reduced, typically the starter motor will draw in excess of 150 amps when engaged - ohms law in which watts equals amps times volts - 12 volts times 150 = 1800watts - a lot of power drawn, also typically the battery is 80 amp hours (all batteries have a rating of amp hours) this means the battery will deliver 80 amps for one hour before it is flat, therefore drawing 150 amps to start would flatten an 80 amp hour battery in half an hour (if nothing else was powered by the battery - but other things are powered such as ignition and other circuits), however if the engine is cold, the oil thick the starter will exceed 200 amps and that is why you could not turn the engine in the real world for half an hour.
Because of the initial draw of power to start, voltage is reduced to other areas of the car, this is counteracted by voltage stabilisers, most of the electrical equipment in the car is regulated to voltages between 5 to 10 volts so they contine to work when voltage is reduced - you dont want your water temperature or fuel gauge to read lower when the battery becomes discharged. (this is why i say the 12 volt car system is not really 12 volts)
To get back to your problem, im not sure what equipment you have to test the system, a simple way is to remove the obvious - take out the bulbs in the two boots, fully charge the battery put a clamp meter over the positive lead (no need to disconect anything) the clamp meter will indicate what amperage is being drawn by the car, the reading should be very low, just milliamps, if above this disconnect one fuse at a time and recheck the meter - you will then be able to identify what is drawing the current- If this still does not find the culprit disconnect the electrical connection to the alternator - this will test the condition of the diodes - if they have failed and the source of your current drain.
Sorry about the long winded reply
Glyn