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Glyn

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Everything posted by Glyn

  1. Steve, the spark plug lies underneath the coil you removed - the big deep hole, You dont need a tool to remove the connector, there is a clip you have to squeeze to release the connector - peel back the rubber boot surround and you will see the clip. Get a new spark plug and you can get the correct socket at the same time, put an extension bar on the socket and feed it into the big deep hole, turn the extension bar as you feed it in the hole and you will feel the socket engage the plug - then put your ratchet on the bar and turn anticlockwise - this will remove the plug - reassemble is the opposite to what you have just done
  2. What are you doing to the car to "Tune it up"? Cars used to be "Tuned" when they had distributors, carburetors, adjusting tappets, ignition timing but modern cars all have an electronic brain that keeps everything in check. Unless of course you are remapping and fitting extra stuff
  3. Alternatively (and dont laugh until youve tried) Hold the remote against your head when you press the button and it will extend the range. Jeremy Clarkson demonstrated this on Top Gear a few years ago -- and it does work and on any vehicle - dont know the science for this though
  4. This would point to a connection not being fully engaged on the wiring. The clips on the coil connection are a real pain, disconnect the coils electrical connections and re do it, push until you hear a faint click. I think the connections were made and so normal running but one or two have become detached through not being properly locked in. It is possible one of the new plugs are faulty and breaking down under load though not very likely
  5. They look like new pads, life is dependant on how much you use them but the dash warning lights will tell you when you are getting low and alternatively you can see the thickness of the pads whilst washing the wheels - so just take a peak each time, and if you notice them getting low change them before the warning light illuminates - this way you can swap the sensor over to the new pads without purchasing a new set of sensors
  6. Take the door card off and disconnect the outer handle connecting rod - this will prevent the handle activating the catch - the door wont be positively locked but from the outside no one will be able to open it
  7. Shihman, you can also use mole grips or even a G clamp and at a push an adjustable wrench to sqeeze the water hose together to stop water escaping when you disconnect the hoses
  8. Dont panic with this job, in comparison to the AOS this is a dead easy job. I changed mine a few years ago and the 5 to 10 minutes bleed was fine - however Loren is a very experienced guy so perhaps you could leave the bleed valve open. We will be there monitoring your mail - moral support (again in a manly way)
  9. Sounds like a MAF to me. Disconnect electrical connection and take it for a run - If all is well this will prove it is the MAF. (Car goes in to limited opperation strategy with MAF disconnected and approximates the fuel air ratio which is better than a faulty MAF signal)
  10. Shihman, the radiator in front of the leaking radiator is the air con condensor, You can seperate this from the water radiator without disconecting the air con fluid pipes (or you will need to regass the air con) Just have a look at the hoses to see if anything else needs to be replaced - I would doubt it as the hoses seem to last forever. I agree with Maurice - get the radiator repaired rather than replaced - a radiator repair shop will tell you if the radiator is past its sell by date and unrepairable. Once you have changed it out and topped up the water dont forget to open the bleed valve just below the oil and water filler caps (take out the plastic false floor to reveal) Start the engine with the water cap off and let the engine idle - the bleed valve will buble as the engine gets to opperating temperature and the thermostat opens as this flow of water will push the trapped air around the system. Let it run for 5 or ten minutes after reaching operating temperature just to make sure all the trapped air is out then shut the valve --- Job Done. Next job is taking the gearbox out for a rebuild at the rate you are getting involved in doing repair work
  11. The plastic clips are easy, there is a smaller diameter protruding head from the larger diameter body, just use a screwdriver to ease the protruding part from the body - work it a bit - Once the top part pulls out the clip itself will prise out -(The top part pushes down the middle of the lower part and expands the clip so it holds)
  12. Check the battery connections - sounds like an earth cable fault
  13. If it is the starter bendix then all you need to do is take it out and wash the working bits down with petrol - blow it dry or simply leave it to dry then refit. What happens is dust and oily residue gathers on the starter shaft - this gets quite thick like grease and causes the pinion to stick when the solenoid tries to disengage, some make the mistake of lubricating - and this does ease the problem for a short time - but lubricant attracts dust - which in turn brings the problem back.
  14. What you describe is the IMS failure - not caused by adding too much oil - just a coincidence, Intermediate shaft bearing failes - as it breaks up the oil comes through into the bell housing and drips out onto the floor - If it is this then its terminal for that engine Edit - misread the first part of your mail, If the car can be started then the IMS has not totaly destroyed itself yet, Dont start the car again - remove gearbox and get the bearing out of the IMS, sounds as though it has colapsed but not destroyed the shaft or engine- either way its bad news. Not sure if the engine has to come out to replace the IMS bearing or whether it can be replaced with engine in situ and gearbox off - someone will be along later that can confirm this - many very competant people on this site
  15. The front bumper comes off dead easy, Take out the side repeater indicators and there is a screw behind them, A row of philips screws underneath the front apron, these can be taken out with a small phillips screwdriver without jacking up the car, lift the front boot lid and take the plastic cover off around the front - where the catch is, three more screws are here - remove them, then simply easy each side outwards and forwards (best done by two people the first time you do it but it can be done on your own) and off it all lifts. There are a couple of plastic surrounds in front of the radiators and remember the air con condensors (radiators) are in front of the water radiators. Either radiator can be changed without disconnecting the air con radiators - just a bit fiddly. I think you are trying to become an expert on everything now ----you have the bug - but you dont need to go around wrecking bits to get experienced. Shihman - you amaze me with your resilience for getting stuck and stuck in ---well done mate
  16. Shihman, what does the electronic reading on the dash say - This will tell you how short you are. Dont forget the filter will take a bit to fill as well and providing the dipstick is going all the way in try adding another pint, cant see any reason why the stick has nothing on it and not sure how close to full it needs to be before the stick registers. You certainly dont have much luck just lately, AOS expert now after all that struggle - as for the tube - Leave it alone as you have repaired it and its not going to cause you any trouble for the forseable future - change it when you can be arsed
  17. More than likely this is the light switch, happened on mine last week, changed the light switch. To test the switch - turn it to sidelights on, pull the switch out to put the fog lights on - now give the switch a whack with your hand to push the switch back in (Fogs off) - hey presto your instrument illumination and numberplate lights are now on (They are on the same circuit)
  18. Well done matey, can we send all Boxster owners with suspect AOS to your place now for repair? The dealer will charge over (in GBP) £500, so you have saved a fortune. You will now know all the difficult bits of the job in detail - wont be long before you are on this forum advising someone else how to do it Really pleased for you mate - now forget all this talk about getting rid of the car
  19. Nah, we all get that from time to time - even when we think we know what we are doing. Thats why we join these forums - when we get stuck we find someone knows a handy trick or too or offers a bit of support - sometimes you feel like getting rid of the car - but when its running right and we have saved a shedload by doing it ourselves we forget all the bad bits - just like you will good luck
  20. Porsche ownership eh? who'd have one
  21. Sometimes it is so frustrating - I hear what you say but cant see what you are seeing. Persistance is the key, it all does come apart but its getting the movements right - but you will get there in the end - probably with a few cuts and bruises but dont give up on this. Look on the bright side - you have the new part, the old part is almost out, you have had set backs but you are much further forward from where you were when you first raised the problem, and you have identified an issue with the wheel bolts - which if undiscovered and a puncture occured miles from nowhere you would be in for a really big bill getting the car recovered. You also discovered the craked tube - sorted the idle hunt issues and now your on the final leg - You have achieved this through persistance - keep at it and you will finish the job
  22. Duke46, OK, I agree the onboard computers that control modern cars are a bit of a pain but the addition of a computer helps keep the thing tuned, more reliable and allows more electrical technical equipment to be fitted. I too worked as a mechanic in the days of points and condensors, distibutor caps, side valves, carburettors and yes they were easy to fix, nothing to worry about when disconnecting a battery, but the distributors wore out, timing went adrift, emmissions were - well anything you wanted them to be just by turning the air bleed screw, they were unreliable, difficult to start in winter, problematic with moisture, didnt develop a lot of power for the engine size and long stroke - I wouldnt want to go back - but like you i feel the computers have taken much of the DIY skills away. However - It is just a car and people on this forum have a lot of knowledge through experience of owning this type of car, advice given is given to sincerely help you not stuff you up - You must realise that advice given is given with genuine sincerity. Stick with us and you will see we all try to help, If only i could come across for a free holiday and fix the car - i wish. and remember you are never too old to learn, look on this as an experience - you may be frustrated, and i appreciate its not your car but are are learning about the highs and lows of vehicle repair, this just happens to be one of your lows
  23. Duke46 - You sound very angry - The disconnect of the battery was a sensible suggestion, cant see what it is that you are angry about. You decided to reconnect the battery and move the car with the door off so i guess you have also triggered the airbag light too. The second disconnect of the battery advice you had was also sensible as occassionally these cars do do weird things when disconnected and reconected, but repeat it and all will be well. At 64 i would have thought you would have taken a more pragmatic approach - melowed with life skills - not rant like a teenager - grow up a bit mate - This forum is people trying to make life easier for others and after all its advice so you can take it or leave it - of course you could always take it to a Porsche dealer where you wont have any of the worries but you wont have any cash left either when you get the bill
  24. Sounds like you have an isolator switch. I think your post is about the first start after all those weeks and the lack of lubrication on the metal parts inside your engine running without oil. On first start it will rattle a bit as the oil will have drained from the cam followers, however it is unlikely to be an issue - Start the car and let it idle for a minute or two, this will have the oil around the engine and as its not under any load it will not cause a problem - after that just treat it as you normally would
  25. Before you change the ignition switch disconnect the battery again - leave for a few seconds then reconnect - you are likely to find all is well again. Problem occurs when the contact the positive lead makes when connecting to the battery (earth lead already connected) when fitting if the person does not make just one contact with the battery - not sure how i explain this, When connecting the lead if it is touched on the pole then contact lost and the lead retouched to the terminal it acts like a very fast switch - this confuses the logic circuits in the cars electronics and results in the type of problem you describe. Just disconnect and reconnect
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