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fastboydave

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Everything posted by fastboydave

  1. fastboydave
    Chuck................... superb!!! :D
  2. fastboydave
    Yep, that will be exactly what you need, but maybe not the GT3 bumper (just the standard one). If i were you i'd put the money you'd spend on doing that and get the 'facelift'. Its a far too much hasle and you get a few more goodies as well as external changes and more bhp (3.4-3.6ltr)
  3. fastboydave
    Where is the 8-way socket located as i look into the engine compartment? Is the ground for the alternator achieved just by bolting it onto the brackets etc?
  4. fastboydave
    Likewise for me Chuck.
  5. fastboydave
    It doesnt appear the alternator gets wet, but various areas on and around the engine does. I'm trying to find out what does actually get wet. Its difficult to just pop the lid to look as the water pours down from the outside surface of the car and spills in there when you do that, 'contaminating' the evidence. I thought about putting news paper on the top of the engine and soaking the lid with a hose pipe (same effect as raining) but still in the same boat when i open the lid. Maybe i dry the lid off well first and try that??? Where is the location of this connector you talk about? Is it obvious?? Could it be a bad ground to the alternator?? Its just odd that it only happens when the rear end gets wet, so to me a short, but voltage on battery seems ok (apart from no charge for a short time). As i say, this has Porsche stumped (mind not always that difficult) but would love to find the issue then say, there you go!!
  6. fastboydave
    Loren, actually this is all about the same issue i had before with the alternator not charging (for around 10 secs at startup) when the rear gets wet (raining, washing car, whatever). I Thought it was fixed when i had a new alternator but it came back. All other stuff such as belt, tensioner etc etc has been changed. The OPC have discussed with Porsche GB and they are at a loss to what it is. They have suggested i may have 'bad weld joints' in the engine wiring loom which is why i asked about the alternator. But why would this happen when something get wet?? Should it be there all the time? Any more info on the routing of the output of the alternator and where it goes to would be appreciated. Thanks.
  7. fastboydave
    Top man. Thank you.
  8. fastboydave
    Ah, sorry my friend, assumed they were all pretty much the same. UK 996TT (registration date 30/10/01). Think its a M.Y 2002 (got glove box if that helps) but not sure....... Thanks boss.
  9. fastboydave
    This maybe one for Loren here? Does anyone have the schematic for the alternator detailing relevant connections to outside world and internal componets etc?? I have the electrical drawings in workshop manual form, but cant make out some detail in the 'block' diagram of the alternator? Thanks.
  10. fastboydave
    Come on guys, I dont have a production line here!! Have you already purchased the new maps??? If not, i got mine from www.navicd24.de and these guys will send you the 'software update' that you MAY require on proviso you send it back. I say MAY, as apparently when i spoke to them not ALL PCM1 will need the update, only the earlier ones. If you havent purchased it yet, maybe give these guys a call? If you have, i may be able to help you. Remember though, copy the CD because if you put the 'Porsche' maps back in the software will revert back and therefore you wont be able to use the new ones again (if you need the update?). Thats how i come to have the sofware..........
  11. fastboydave
    I'm gonna have to start charging for this, or selling it on E-bay............. Think i've found a market..............
  12. fastboydave
    I am fairly sure they can 'skim' these discs on the car. Went in to the dealer one day and saw a 911 on the stand with the 'skimming' machine hooked up, it had cross drilled discs (think it was a C4S). I have also been told (when i had the same issue) that i could have mine skimmed. This was by two different places......... I didnt, so i'm not 100% if its possible but they did know what discs i had so i'm a good 98%. In any case like we have all said, ideally new or 'skimmed' discs with new pads. The cheap (and nasty) option is new or flat pads with your old dics (which you have done) to wear that rust off (a bit), with even less braking efficiency for a while!! Careful! :unsure:
  13. fastboydave
    Depends on who's asking and why they are asking surely?? If you are going to appear to be 'showing off' and if they will think your a 'flash git' then say you have a Clio/Micra/Focus whatever............ If not.............. However, forget the 986/987/996/997 etc, people who do not own (or ever have) a Porsche may guess its a Porka (due to the "9"), but the only imortal digits people recognise is 911, so quote that tacking on your variant. Job done!
  14. fastboydave
    I've sent you a personal message. Dave. Hi I have the same problem ! Any help where I can get this update would be appreciated ! Stian. I've sent you a message. Dave.
  15. fastboydave
    Oh, you could probably get your discs skimmed (on the car) at a dealer if well above wear limit and just replace the pads. Maybe cheaper and less hasle for you??
  16. fastboydave
    You have corroded discs (that may have also been overheated). The 'rings' around the disc am i right in assuming they are 'rust' rings?? I had this on the innner face of me rear discs, which tends to originate from getting your discs wet, letting them rust up and not drying them off quickly enough or hard enough..... My pads (and discs) when i took them off looked exactly like yours. Fortunately the rust was only on the inner face of the rears, so didnt really affect my braking too much. These brakes are designed for 'fast' driving use and need to be 'stood' on frequently in my opinion to clean off any c**p that gets on there (and rust).
  17. fastboydave
    I too had a (bought from new) Box S. The best two seater softy I.M.H.O. I did love the top down on the relatively few dry days we have here in the UK. People say its the poor mans Porsche, mainly guys with 911's or people who are jealous that they cant afford any kind of Porsche at all!!! I bought mine because i wanted a two seater sports car and the Box was and still is the best. I could have had a 996, but i didnt want that at that time..... However, when it came time to sell the box i decided it WAS the time for a 911, and it had to be the daddy of 911's for me..... All in all i would recommend a 996, although the interior and driving position etc etc is pretty much the same as your Box (ofcourse) so it wont be a 'change' for you, but hey, if it aint broke dont fix it was my way of thinking. If you like the wind in your hair thing, then maybe consider a cab, although again I.M.H.O a cab has a big arse and the lines are no where near as beautiful. Some purists would also say that only the coupe should wear the 911 badge (or so i've read). Either way you cant go far wrong, so good luck and enjoy..........
  18. fastboydave
    Yep, here in UK any none original Porsche parts that are used on your car they will use as an excuse not to honour the warrantee. I continue the warrantee each year and would rather have that (and no 'upgrades') than having a bill for a new engine (for example).
  19. fastboydave
    I think i know about what you describe with regard to changing gear, i have something similar with my 996TT. Its all about timing for me, and i notice mine from 1st to second (ONLY). If you dip the clutch and smack it straight back to second (almost simultaneously) you will get a 'jerk' where you feel it disengage. When your reving it its not noticeable, but driving sedately you do. If you dip the clutch purposely then go for the change, you get the smooth change. Also, try tapping the throttle (slightly) while doing it. I'd expect a bit of that withg frist gear, but if yours is in every gear maybe below is the reason?? Ofcourse, your clutch could be dragging (air in the system)??? Where is the 'bite'??? Vibration?? Clutch release baring on the way out???
  20. fastboydave
    There is no loudness option on my menus. That sounds like the same as mine, although I don't know where to find the "speaker box" (which I assume would be a subwoofer). I had a longer drive yesterday and spent time fiddling with it some more. Found, oddly enough to me, that the radio sounded pretty good, but the CD's sounded flat. So, will try some different CD's--but that seems to be the main issue. (Previously, I have rarely listened to the radio.) I forgot you have a cab, my sub is directly behind the rear seats and blends into the parcel shelf. Yours as said is under the front seat i believe? This will give rise to a different 'sound' too. As mpikounis said, the head unit remembers the settings for each function, so you can set the radio different to CD. I have PCM 1, so posibly i have a 'loudness' function whereas the newer PCM 2 or standard head unit does not??
  21. fastboydave
    I didn't know that this year had an ambient noise adjustment. No mention of it in the manual. Since the adjustments seem to affect the midrange as much as the actual high's & low's, I've left the treble at 0 and the bass at +3. I think the radio in my Ford Ranger sounds better than this one. Albeit, the Ranger doesn't generate as much tire noise from our rough roads here. For what it's worth, I'm not against upgrading, but it would be nice to confirm that the current system is actually working correctly before I start considering alternatives. I'm sure mines got the 'audio pilot' (2001 996TT), but i could be wrong, i'll check later........ I'm also sure my old 2002 Box S had it on the Bose (option) too? I run Bass 0 and Treble +3 or +4 and NO "loudness" set. With that set up i have a deep bass sound and also hitting the subtle highs. I know what your saying about midrange, but mine doesnt seem to bad (not as good as a top aftermarket ofcourse), but for me and not wanting to start ripping my car apart, spending a fortune getting a decent system installed then not getting any money back for it when you sell the car, i'll stick with the Bose..... As a matter if interest, is yours the same as mine, i assume so (speakers wise)?? I have two dash (2x2-way), two door (2x1-way), two rear panels (2x2way) and speaker box (2x1way/ported)
  22. fastboydave
    Maurice, if your trying to measure the current (I dont know your electrical knowledge?) grab yourself a DMM (capable of measuring mA-A) and insert it in SERIES with your positive battery lead. First, disconnect the positive battery clamp (do this with key in ignition and on, else alarm will go off probably) and connect positve 'probe' of DMM to battery +ve terminal and negative 'probe' of DMM to the battery clamp you have just taken off. You then need to get the car into the 'mode' you wish to measure (standby?) so you will have to run the leads outside the bonnet, close the boonet and doors etc and watch the DMM. Just be absolutely sure you are not shorting the wires to anything and that the DMM is in the right range, measuring current with the probes plugged into the right sockets. Job done. Hope thats fairly clear?? Dave.
  23. fastboydave
    I wander if your audio pilot (think its called that) is playing up, as its only when you have the ambient noise that it is supposed to 'suppress'?? Maybe its compensating too much and thats what is happening. I had a Bose on my Boxster (now my 996TT) but always sounded quite good (with top down) all the way well past a ton! Obviously not with standing wind noise around your ears!! What kind of bass/treble you got dialed in??
  24. fastboydave
    Top man Loren. But is that with alarm activated or de-activated?? What i'm trying to ascertain is, what is the minimum current draw for my battery, locked car or unlocked car (locked away in garage so have the option)??? 1schoir, make sure you connect it right though and have the DMM on the right setting, else you may get a spark or two!! :D
  25. fastboydave
    Anybody know what the specs are for 'standby' current with alarm on and alarm off??? Cheers.
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