fastboydave

Where abouts in Essex?? Theres a place probably still a fair distance from you near Wembley. I had my motor off these guys and they are very knowledgable. They won a lot of Porsche Cup events. Their website is www.specialistdirect.co.uk if this is any good to you. They have all the diag equipment necessary to do the job. Hope this helps?

My 2001 TT's battery died when approx 4.5 years old after going on holiday for two weeks and the battery running flat. It 'sounded' on the way out for a while (turning engine over slower) but continued to work until this time when it would not 'accept' charge. I replaced the battery and soon afterwards purchased a battery maintainer....... I use my TT as an everyday commute as well as weekends (approx 7000mls per annum), but get into the habbit of plugging in the maintainer at the end of play Friday in case i dont use it over the weekend. I have the old maintainer (transformer type into wall) and only charges at 0.5A then switches to pulse trickle when appropriate voltage reached. I think this method keeps the battery in tip top condition (maybe i go over the top a little) but what kills a battery is not the running flat, is the charging up after it has been flat. Normal automotive chargers will rush current into a flat battery and it is this that distorts the plates and crystalises an old battery. So, my theory is if you keep the battery 'up there' whether you drive the car with the alternator charging it or use the maintainer, then little shock to the battery will occur and should get the most (lifetime) out of your battery. If you arent using your car for 1-2 weeks (or more), i would definately suggest that you need to use one. Hope this has helped?

Team996, dont let them rattle your cage, the bumper is obviously in shade as you can see the 'flat bits' under the headlights and the edge where the side repeaters are perfectly fine. You cannot tell from a photo anyway, and having had experience with Porsche 'official' approved body repairers NOT painting bumpers the right colour i know the score. Get a sunny day (in direct sunlight, then not direct sunlight) and look if there is a contrast diference between bonnet and bumper and then wing and bumper (at the side where repeaters are). Check different angles, then if you cant tell, there you go. Incidentally, i've found that silver normally goes 'lighter' NOT darker likewise with Lapis Blue both of which i have had experience with. If you listen to these guys, it looks like they will have you believe that the bonnet on the right front portion has a square patch that is the wrong colour too. :-)

Transmission (synchro gone) agreed. Wander if at the outside chance the clutch hasnt fully disengaged (dragging) seeing as you had the clutch replaced? Maybe they havent fitted something correctly?

I agree with above for what its worth. This is just a load of B.S from suppliers of N2 for people who have more money than sense! If i wax my car alot, maybe it will be more 'slippy' through air hey???!!! Air is mostly Nitrogen as already said, so the advantage will be minimal. Unless you are an F1 team looking for every slightest advantage and improvement, you aint gonna tell fella's lets face it. Wow, you need to 'top up' your tyres from time to time (every few weeks unless you have a puncture, maybe thats it guys?!, before track day, whatever) ............... bid deal!!!

Ah! Where are you in the UK?? I know a couple of places that are good if not better than OPC at half the cost......

Seen a few posts on here regarding bad lifters. Have a search...... Here's an idea though....... If your car doesnt always missfire, get it to Porsche OPC (not the same one at present!) and buy a warrantee from them. Hopfully they wont find anything else wrong with it when they do their check and you'll pay around a grand for check and warrantee. Then the engine stuff will be covered!! ;-) Things like that though is why i continue the warrantee, and the amount of 'issues' i have had with my motor is beyond belief! The warrantee over the last two years has paid for itself 3 times plus!. These cars are by no means bomb proof.......... I actually think they are quite fragile. Dont get me wrong though i love it still.

Repair definitely. What colour is it?? I had a similar issue with my '02 Box. Mine was "Lapis Blue" and the official Porsche repair centre had loads of probs matching the paint! Apparently 'dark colours' are easy but they had to contact Porsche GB to get "field matched" paint. After a couple of re-try's, they got the paint good enough. So like 1schoir said, check all angles in different types of light. Incidentally, mine showed up in 'sunlight'. It was perfectly fine in 'artificial' light!!

Suuuuuuuuuuuuperb!!! That made me smile! Infact, leave the top down then, loads more fun!! :D

Oh, i forgot. I suspect the Box will loose more money also (newer etc) whereas the 996 has lost its main % already. The Box S has now the old 3.4ltr (295hp i think) engine in it. The C4S has the 3.6ltr (320hp) engine, so you will have a little more grunt too. Also, think the 3.6 engine is a little more realiable than the 3.4, but the Box will be newer and with a warrantee??? Buy a warrantee if it hasnt got one would be my advice, i have had thousands of pounds go wrong with mine, most of which was covered by the Porsche warrantee. It costs £725/year (now £895 UK) but got my money back well over 3 times in two years!!

You can actually tell the difference between 40 and 44 with 'normal' highway use?? Are you sure its not just in your mind (down the same road at the same speed etc etc)? I can understand the guys who 'track' the car as when your on the ragged edge the lower pressures will give you that little more bite, but normal road use.......... dont know?? I have run 40 and 44 (32 on front) and increments in between and have to say i dont notice a fat lot of difference (maybe a little more comfort over bumps, but thats it). I dont hang around either, but at the end of the day do whats suit you, 40 psi is fine and most on here run that i think?

I have had a Boxster S ('02) and now 996TT. Albeit the 'turbo' is a little different again to the 'naturally aspirated', i think the way to go for you is the 911. You have had the boxster (like me) and when it came to changing my vehicle, I was toying with the idea of a brand new S or a used Turbo. My friend made a very good point to me that i had done the Boxster and that the 911 is the 'real Porsche'. The 2007 Box will undoubtedly be better build quality than the 996 4S (they all rattle and creak at times) but i believe for a Porsche there is no better feeling than in a 911. It depends what you want, if you want the 2 seater softy, then S, if you want the true 'Porsche feeling' the 911. Guys with Boxsters will say that so many % is the same (panels, interior etc etc), but whatever, it still dont look like one does it?? The 2007 Box will be cheaper to run (service every 2 years or 24000mls) instead of every year for the 996, but hey, you only live once and no matter how many years pass, the 911 will still be the daddy..........

You will obviously get creases if left down for prelonged period, but the tension when the top is up should soon straighten them out. What i would say though is NEVER put your top down when wet or even slightly damp, this will damage your fabric. If it has been raining then becomes a sunny day, wait for the heat to dry the top off completely before getting wind in your hair.............. Enjoy my friend.

Sounds like just your luck, but i have same same kind of luck too!! I reckon that they have been damaged/broken on replacement of the windscreen as this part has to come off i believe?? There is a link in the 996 Carrera section to workshop manuals, find the one with the windscreen in it and you'll see what i mean.....

The 993 "Turbo" wheels were exactly that and the new ones are what you have correctly said (in the picture). I think the wheels are 8 and 11J front and back respectively and wear 225/40 and 295/30 tyres. You may have a problem with the narrow body (sticking out beyond the rear wing??), but someone will have to advise about that. Here in the UK, i see alot of used 'turbo' wheels on Ebay as alot of owners upgrade to aftermarket 19's, so you could get a bargin. There are also a few website that offer a good price for the new wheels (inc sport design you mention) but where you are, i dont know. I'm sure people on here will have a few contacts, if not, get searching on the www. Cant help you about the weight, sorry.......... Dave.

That should do it. But for your info, when my battery died (had to call the AA out as wasnt sure whether i had a short or dead battery at first) he managed to 'trick' the alarm from going off by removing the +ve lead first before the -ve. The alarm never went off and i dont think i had the key in the ignition? Maybe give it a go, but get your ear plugs in!

There's been alot of discussion about this and the name that crops up is Kuhmo tyres. Some people rate them, others do not (like any brand of tyre), but as they are considerably cheaper, if you arent bothered about the "N" rating and only drive it 'everyday' etc, maybe these are the way to go?

I agree with my friend above here, you should 'have them' about the damage (although small). However, when i had my old 986S with the plastic rear screen, from time to time you get light scratches. What i used to clean/pollish out the scratches was Porsche's plastic rear screen pollish (or something like that). It is a 'cream' and came in a small bottle. You apply with very light even pressure with clean cloth and 'buff' off. This got rid of many 'marks' and i have also pollished out sctaches on watch plastic faces with success. It does take patience with many re-applications........ A similar product would suffice i suspect, but hey, get them to sort it! Good luck.

Thats typical my friend. I have a nasty one right by the badge, and you do keep looking at it yes. Thing is though, you can bet that you'll have it sprayed and the same gravel truck will be waiting for you on the way back! :-) Its how far you go, you cant keep having it sprayed?? Depending on how many miles you do (useage) you may escape the stone chips for a while? Mine isnt too bad (apart from the one mentioned) and i use mine everyday (7000mls year approx). You could get it sprayed and invest in those front covers for your bumper/bonnet and side mirrors if your that concerned?? On the other note you mentioned which Loren says could be the heat shield, that should have been looked after at Porsche should it prove to be that? Dead easy to see (because mine is loose so i know!), when its cool get your head under and you'll see the sheild on top of the exhaust. Grab it and see if it moves. You have two, one each side if my memory serves me correctly. To sort it means exhaust off, which they can damage the doing it apparently.......

Question? Did you buy this car from a Porsche centre??? If so, they (Porsche GB's policy anyway) should make sure they have no stone chips and everything is in perfect condition. I know for a fact that any stone chips on the hood, bumper, anywhere are sprayed. Likewise anything else that is not 'perfect' is sorted. If you didnt, then obviously you have bought the car as is and will have to get it done if they are annoying you too much or are visible?? My advice would be if they are not oo noticable, leave it a bit, because i guarantee that as soon as you have it back from the body shop, you'll have a nice new stone chip for your trouble! However, i understand the need for perfection on a new motor, i had the bumper sprayed myself as mine had a few 'imperfections'. Enjoy it.....

Yeah, agree with a couple of the guys here. Fully charge it, wack on ALL loads (especially lights, heated rear screen, PCM, aircon etc) basically as much load as you can, leave it a couple of mins and crank to start. It will sound 'slower' but should crank it over and start. Alternatively, get it tested by a battery place, quick and easy to do. I dont think you will have killed the battery, what kills the battery is more the charging after you have run it flat, rather than the running flat. As you 'trickled' it, you have done the best you can. This is beacuse the intially surge of current into a completely flat battery distorts/ruins the plates. Therefore over the course of time eventually the plates are shot and you get a build up of crystals which take away the capacity of the cells (or something like that).

Guys.... Had a good look through previous threads doing a search on "windscreen" and "passenger seat" but not found exactly what i'm after. First one is i have a creeking/ticking which seems to come from right up from, possibly the windscreen as soon as the car is moving and is constant while the car is rolling. From what i have found this points to the either the dash rubbing the screen, the braces under the bonnet (battery compartment) or the 'seal' on the screen. Now the one i'm thinking of opting for is to replace the foam rubber cord and outser seal for the screen. I have the part numbers of 996 541 903 00 & 996 541 531 01 respectively from a thread that i found on here. Couple of questions, is the "outer seal the black 'rubber' around the screen??? Also, how do you actually go about replacing these parts (procedure)??? Secondly, think this is a new 'issue'. The passenger seat has a 'vibration' when i go over rough road. I have found what it is, which is within the slide for the seat. The actual part that moves backwards and forwards is allowed to wobble slightly up and down. You can grab the back of the seat (headrest area) and push it backwards and forwards to simulate the bumps and get the exact noise. Only the one slide is 'loose'. Anything i can do to stop this?? When someone sits in the chair, all is quiet! Please dont say always drive with a passenger!! ;-) Thanking you in advance..... Dave.

Plenty of meat on those, miles and miles left on them!! ;-) Incidentally, i changed my rear discs and pads recently due to 'corrosion' (on a 996TT). They were heading that way probably before i bought the car, but the rear discs (on the inside face) had multiple rust 'rings' around the discs. I had no 'juddering' and the braking effect was fine, but thought hey, i'll get them changed. I made the decision to have a go myself, which was made easier by the comprehensive instructions on Renntech (thank you!). Really is a piece of cake, and the rears have the handrake adjustment to cope with too, fronts even easier. The parts cost me just under £450 (ALL original Porsche discs, pads, caliper repair set, new caliper bolts and anti squeel pads from an internet company called design911 based in UK. Sensors were OK so reused). Pricing the front to do the same will be less than £600. Now, i just happened to look on Porsche GB website at servicing costs etc and they charge (parts and labour) £869 for rears and £1399 for fronts!!!!!! An absolute disgrace, especially now i know how quick and easy they are to do! Total rip off. I beleieve they do squeel and corrode when you dont use them too aggresively, and maybe you should 'stand on them' now and again to give them a bit of a clean off. Also, when you wash the car, you should take it round the block and really stand on them to dry them off and elliminate the corrosion issues that i had. Just some advice. Do the brakes yourself if you have the room. I used the standard car jack etc to lift each side at a time. You never know, you may enjoy it, i did.

If the weather is warmer, then surely you should use one with an 'offset'. i.e. 5W40 or 5W50. The dealers here in the UK use 5W40 Mobil 1 to fill from their 'tank', and as you know, it aint that warm here!! However, i believe you cannot buy 5W40 to then top up, only 0W40, so maybe you are stuck with that anyway??

I'd get yourself an aftermarket LED type new one. On your motor (black) the 'smoked' one would look good..........