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koya1893
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Has anyone experience Victor wheels like the one's in the link below. http://www.ddswholesale.com/catalog/Victor...eels/Album2.htm I decided not to track my Boxter S so I am going to replace stock wheel with something like these with Nitto's tires. Any suggestion as what size to have on 19" wheels. The car is going to be a daily driver. Ben
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WTT Techart Formula's for stock porsche wheels
koya1893 replied to racerboy's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
send some photo of them if they are what I think they are I like that style. ben_mendoza@bodydimension.com -
A decission is about to be made on what wheels to buy. Has anyone heard anything about the wheels that are on the Black 987 on this link? http://www.cecwheels.com/tuners/products.s...uner_brand_id=7 I have a set of Borbet on my 1984 318i with similar desing, I like to the design and what seems to be an easy cleaning not to mention they are nice looking. Ben
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Okay I am not one to say I know all about the Boxster design, but from looking at some drawing on the "snorkle" how it is mounted to what seems to be a perminent sealed wall to the air box, I can't figure out how the air will be warmer since doing the mod does not open or brake any berrier to allow warm air from the eng. compartment to get sucked up. Now unless my 2000 S is built different than the rest, doing the mod seem to offer positive affect than negative. This link is from another forum the guy had to0 much money to play with so he spent it on something more meaningful. http://www.986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9671 Read the initial data. By the way I must have a calibrated foot because after I did the mod on my car the throttle response was quicker than what I remembered when I first test drove my car before buying it. Ben
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18" wheels on Boxster '99 (big ones)!
koya1893 replied to niebyl2002's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I don't know how much the 1/2 inch bigger the one you like will do. For the most part a lot of the guys in the forum who elected 18" wheels have 18X10 rear and 18X8.5 front which seem to be the prepared size for all application. I on the other hand like the formula wheels and they only come in 19" have not made up my mind yet which way to go, but I need to make it soon spring is coming which means racing. Some of the tires size some posted in the racing forum are 225 30 and 225 35's. I like the wide look from the rear which I would think give the car a better handling. The Boxster rides like a "go cart" as it is for handling any upgrade I'm sure will make it even better. Ben -
Since it only happens while you are holding it at that particular rpm you might want to check on the ignition system. It sounds like it is mis-firing, like one cylinder not wanting to firing. Ben
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i like the M030 bars; they're made by porsche and are fairly cheap. May I suggest posting your question in the Boxster Racing forum. When I first got my car that was the first thing I wanted to do there's alot of discussion on this topic in that forum. One gentlemen I meet at one of the race at Baysock, Mic had a good set up which showed on his fast time on the track and I think many had follow his mod from what I read in the forum. http://www.boxcar-racing.com/forum/ Ben
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New to Boxster ownership - Outer CV Boot
koya1893 replied to Rising_Sun's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Ben, I am not sure why you had to remove the brake assembly? I did mine with it attached. Tommy I probably didn't need to, but after looking around and saw the brake pads looking abit thin I thought I should learn how to remove the caliper and and rotor while I had the front expose. Besides I am planning to re-painting the calipers once I have some warm weather needed for the paint to cure properly. By the way thank you for all the great links and info. In addition, what is the minimum contribution one can make? If I had not post my question here I think the job of doing the boot would have been much more difficult specially without the book to use for guidance. Ben -
New to Boxster ownership - Outer CV Boot
koya1893 replied to Rising_Sun's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I just did mine over the week end after I got the correct parts. Mine was the inner that was crack of course once I got the shat out I replace both of them. Once the shaft is out and the inner is seperated from the shat I just cut up the outer boot re-grease and slip on a new one. After you get the inner out you should be able to see how the outer is slip on from the inner side with the bearing out of course. When you order your boots make sure who helps you needs not think ahead for you. I mean make sure they listen to the year your is made. All the boot are the same until 2003 I have an 2000 and was sent the newer version. I managed to just remove the anti sway bar attachement just at the sway bar and the tie rod and control arm of course the brake assembly. I sustain a minor set back when I put my together. Somehow one of the brake wear wire was cut during the removal and installation hense I had a brake wear light on when I finished the job. I don't know if this was a good idea, but the tie rod and the control arm mounting bolt I loosen to relieve the tension so it would be easier to let them hang withou having have to force them down while you are swing the strut tower out to remove the shaft. I marked them before lossening them. I am not much into suspension but I think this is where they ajusted for alignment so marking them before loosening them I recommend. It made it easier for me to swing the strut tower out to free the shaft. Ben -
Hit the nail on the head. I removed the brake the following day, good enough one of the two wires was broken looks like a clean I don't how I could have dut it during the removal or re-installation. Thank for the heads up. Everything is workind as they should. Ben
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Good day everyone. Finally found sometime to replace both CV boot on my 2000 S. During the removal of the drive shaft the brake had to be remove among other key parts in order to extract the shaft. After re-installing everything, the "brake ware light" came on and stayed on during my test drive. How did I activate the light from removing and re-installing the brakes? Or is it just momentary and just need to re-set it. If so. How do I re-set it? Ben
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I read all the links to other thread on shaft removal and boot replacement. since I do not have the tech manual. What size it the nut on the short shaft? The parts to replace mine finally came in, now to get busy in replacing them. Ben
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The same problem has happened to me after a top replacement and I was/still am unhappy at the upholstery shop which found the issue told me about it and said they spent a couple days looking for fix without finding one. There is an official Bulletin on it they should have known specially if a guy like me who doesn't know anything about mechanics and soft tops can find the fix on the internet in a matter of ours. This being said, the fact that it often happens after replacing a top makes me think that to do so (replace the top) the shop has to remove this spring and more often than not put it back in the improper position. Or that the process of replacing the top puts too much tension on the spring making it loose its original shape (hence the need to reverse it). Anybody has any thoughts about that Benoit Since my parts did not arrived to replace the boot on the short shaft I did fix the top problem. When I removed the sping it was curve towards me, then I saw why it was not give the tension required for the top to follow the groove. If anyone is replacing a top in the near future make sure the spring is flex or vent away from you or looking like an upside down bowl. Thank you for the info. Now I can get the "one touch" switch. Additionally, any did the "hack" to open or close the top without applying the hand brake or while going at slow speed? Ben
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I'm re-painting my calikpers with orignal color they started to fade and the clear coat from what I can tell is bubbling. Where do I get the "porsche" decal? Or is it a stamp lettering? Ben
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are you talking about this thread:Top fail to close properly If this is the issue you are talking about, your problem is a leaf spring that has become to loose and does not pull the roof fabric sufficiently. Here is the picture of the spring What you need to do according to the TSB is remove it and flip it other before installing it back you should also apply lubricant to the place the spring pushes on the roof :notworthy: Yes, that is what I was talking about. thank you for the detailed info. As far as the royalty. if you ever in my area drop me a line and a deer is in order. After I post this thread I manage to reach the previous owner and acknowledge that the top was replaced, hence why the problem. Ben
