koya1893

Has anyone experience Victor wheels like the one's in the link below. http://www.ddswholesale.com/catalog/Victor...eels/Album2.htm I decided not to track my Boxter S so I am going to replace stock wheel with something like these with Nitto's tires. Any suggestion as what size to have on 19" wheels. The car is going to be a daily driver. Ben

send some photo of them if they are what I think they are I like that style. ben_mendoza@bodydimension.com

A decission is about to be made on what wheels to buy. Has anyone heard anything about the wheels that are on the Black 987 on this link? http://www.cecwheels.com/tuners/products.s...uner_brand_id=7 I have a set of Borbet on my 1984 318i with similar desing, I like to the design and what seems to be an easy cleaning not to mention they are nice looking. Ben

Okay I am not one to say I know all about the Boxster design, but from looking at some drawing on the "snorkle" how it is mounted to what seems to be a perminent sealed wall to the air box, I can't figure out how the air will be warmer since doing the mod does not open or brake any berrier to allow warm air from the eng. compartment to get sucked up. Now unless my 2000 S is built different than the rest, doing the mod seem to offer positive affect than negative. This link is from another forum the guy had to0 much money to play with so he spent it on something more meaningful. http://www.986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9671 Read the initial data. By the way I must have a calibrated foot because after I did the mod on my car the throttle response was quicker than what I remembered when I first test drove my car before buying it. Ben

I don't know how much the 1/2 inch bigger the one you like will do. For the most part a lot of the guys in the forum who elected 18" wheels have 18X10 rear and 18X8.5 front which seem to be the prepared size for all application. I on the other hand like the formula wheels and they only come in 19" have not made up my mind yet which way to go, but I need to make it soon spring is coming which means racing. Some of the tires size some posted in the racing forum are 225 30 and 225 35's. I like the wide look from the rear which I would think give the car a better handling. The Boxster rides like a "go cart" as it is for handling any upgrade I'm sure will make it even better. Ben

Since it only happens while you are holding it at that particular rpm you might want to check on the ignition system. It sounds like it is mis-firing, like one cylinder not wanting to firing. Ben

i like the M030 bars; they're made by porsche and are fairly cheap. May I suggest posting your question in the Boxster Racing forum. When I first got my car that was the first thing I wanted to do there's alot of discussion on this topic in that forum. One gentlemen I meet at one of the race at Baysock, Mic had a good set up which showed on his fast time on the track and I think many had follow his mod from what I read in the forum. http://www.boxcar-racing.com/forum/ Ben

Ben, I am not sure why you had to remove the brake assembly? I did mine with it attached. Tommy I probably didn't need to, but after looking around and saw the brake pads looking abit thin I thought I should learn how to remove the caliper and and rotor while I had the front expose. Besides I am planning to re-painting the calipers once I have some warm weather needed for the paint to cure properly. By the way thank you for all the great links and info. In addition, what is the minimum contribution one can make? If I had not post my question here I think the job of doing the boot would have been much more difficult specially without the book to use for guidance. Ben

I just did mine over the week end after I got the correct parts. Mine was the inner that was crack of course once I got the shat out I replace both of them. Once the shaft is out and the inner is seperated from the shat I just cut up the outer boot re-grease and slip on a new one. After you get the inner out you should be able to see how the outer is slip on from the inner side with the bearing out of course. When you order your boots make sure who helps you needs not think ahead for you. I mean make sure they listen to the year your is made. All the boot are the same until 2003 I have an 2000 and was sent the newer version. I managed to just remove the anti sway bar attachement just at the sway bar and the tie rod and control arm of course the brake assembly. I sustain a minor set back when I put my together. Somehow one of the brake wear wire was cut during the removal and installation hense I had a brake wear light on when I finished the job. I don't know if this was a good idea, but the tie rod and the control arm mounting bolt I loosen to relieve the tension so it would be easier to let them hang withou having have to force them down while you are swing the strut tower out to remove the shaft. I marked them before lossening them. I am not much into suspension but I think this is where they ajusted for alignment so marking them before loosening them I recommend. It made it easier for me to swing the strut tower out to free the shaft. Ben

Hit the nail on the head. I removed the brake the following day, good enough one of the two wires was broken looks like a clean I don't how I could have dut it during the removal or re-installation. Thank for the heads up. Everything is workind as they should. Ben

Good day everyone. Finally found sometime to replace both CV boot on my 2000 S. During the removal of the drive shaft the brake had to be remove among other key parts in order to extract the shaft. After re-installing everything, the "brake ware light" came on and stayed on during my test drive. How did I activate the light from removing and re-installing the brakes? Or is it just momentary and just need to re-set it. If so. How do I re-set it? Ben

I read all the links to other thread on shaft removal and boot replacement. since I do not have the tech manual. What size it the nut on the short shaft? The parts to replace mine finally came in, now to get busy in replacing them. Ben

The same problem has happened to me after a top replacement and I was/still am unhappy at the upholstery shop which found the issue told me about it and said they spent a couple days looking for fix without finding one. There is an official Bulletin on it they should have known specially if a guy like me who doesn't know anything about mechanics and soft tops can find the fix on the internet in a matter of ours. This being said, the fact that it often happens after replacing a top makes me think that to do so (replace the top) the shop has to remove this spring and more often than not put it back in the improper position. Or that the process of replacing the top puts too much tension on the spring making it loose its original shape (hence the need to reverse it). Anybody has any thoughts about that Benoit Since my parts did not arrived to replace the boot on the short shaft I did fix the top problem. When I removed the sping it was curve towards me, then I saw why it was not give the tension required for the top to follow the groove. If anyone is replacing a top in the near future make sure the spring is flex or vent away from you or looking like an upside down bowl. Thank you for the info. Now I can get the "one touch" switch. Additionally, any did the "hack" to open or close the top without applying the hand brake or while going at slow speed? Ben

I'm re-painting my calikpers with orignal color they started to fade and the clear coat from what I can tell is bubbling. Where do I get the "porsche" decal? Or is it a stamp lettering? Ben

are you talking about this thread:Top fail to close properly If this is the issue you are talking about, your problem is a leaf spring that has become to loose and does not pull the roof fabric sufficiently. Here is the picture of the spring What you need to do according to the TSB is remove it and flip it other before installing it back you should also apply lubricant to the place the spring pushes on the roof :notworthy: Yes, that is what I was talking about. thank you for the detailed info. As far as the royalty. if you ever in my area drop me a line and a deer is in order. After I post this thread I manage to reach the previous owner and acknowledge that the top was replaced, hence why the problem. Ben

Todd, Describe how you did that. Any pics? On my MY2000 S, I had to undo the control arms. Then remove it from the strut end, pivot the strut and pull it out. It looked like it could have been pulled out from the transmission end if the exhaust had been removed. This is how the Bently manual showed it too. thanks Tommy I don't have the book so I will take lots of photo and try to do it with taking to many components. I am one not to remove parts if they don't need to be remove to complete a project. Ben

:notworthy: Gentlemen thank you for all of the great info. No I didn't do the maintenance on the first one when I bought the car I was given a 30 day warranty which was good because I discovered it before that time ran out, plus I paid a pre-purchase inspection at a porsche dealer and they miss the damage so they replace it for me with no charge. this will be my first chance at doing this I have done this to all my Bimmer I figured it shouldn't be any different with the Boxster might with parts removal and tools. With all the info you guys gave and direct me to it should a cake walk... Knock wood.. thank you again my week end now planned. They are calling for low 60's in my area that means driving with the top down. :clapping: Ben

The groove is part of the hard plastice frame and it is the passenger side that does it. The top does function as advertise both in warm and cold weather. The problem comes and goes at time the canvas follow the groove without me guiding it. No photo I will post them this week end after replacing the boot on the half shaft.

I have been looking for the fix on my ragtop. When I "karate chop" my plastic window on colds days the passenger side does not follow the groove when I close the top. Can someone direct me to the thread or the fix to eliminate me having have to stop the top and guide the fabric into the groove. I would like to install one of "one-touch" operation for my top. In the origianl thread a spring was mentioned. I am not sure where that spring is. Ben

I was blessed with great weather the other day and desided to do some detailing on my 2000 S. when I got to polishing the exhaust tips I noticed a trace of grease on several components I discovered my passenger side inner boot has develope a small crack hence CV joint grease started to come out. Has anyone replaced just the boot on the shaft?. I got the parts and plan on doing the job this week end if anyone has any lesson learned on replacing them I appreciate it. I replace the drive side shaft at 43K due to all the had ran dry from a boot being torn. This one I caught just in time before a large amount of grease is gone. Ben

From what I read in one of the hacks out there to have daytime running light, the canadian model have an additional relay just for the daytime running light finding that would be a good start to eliminate your daytime running light. I have a 2000 S I did the hack and incorporated daytime running light. One question. have you used this new product that polish and removed the yellow tint on the head lights. I notice that on my headlight had the yellow tint and got some of the polish and rub off the yellow tint of my car. Got it at Advance Auto. Ben

Did not see this question ask yet. so here it goes. Has anyone expermented with any aftermarket "cold air induction" on their car. If so which model or company did you use? Ben

This can help or it m ight just be another experience to tell people. During my modification of doing the "daylight running" light I extracted the #9 fuse which is for the light to see if that indeed disable the lights. It did not, the driver's side look normal as far as brightness and the passenger side look very dim. There could be another fuse I don't know, I am not one to say I am an electrical guru when I plug the fuse back into #9 they both look normal. I finished that daytime running light hack and both side look normal now. Ben

Good day ladies and gentlemen, I should say good evening since I am reading a great deal of the article posted late at night. I am new in the forum but not new the to the physical jaw dropping appearance when I do see a "Artic silver Boxster S" drive by. That was when I did almost what the article told. I've had my college car BMW 318i since new and pushing 162K and have settled for a 1987 Suburban to tow the fishing boat just to be able to have the Porsche I have track since it was introduce. I purchase my Boxster in dead cold winter in Southenr maryland the same day I promised my soon to be 18 year old daughter I was going to shop with her to plan her 18th birthday. the same day I decided to check out what was bieng advertise when it came to porsche's in my area. A 2000 Boxster S was being advertise with very low mile and in my prize range of course that immediately raise a question. What is wrong with it? I drove to the dealer and asked to see it. It was located at another site so I politely ask if it can be delivered to their dealer for me to test drive. Being the good father I try to be I went shopping with my daughter while the dealer made arrangement to transfer the car. Got the shopping done just in time when the dealer called me and said that car won't be there till morning. the next day I was going out of town when they said it will be there first thing I decided I was going to postpone my trip couple of hours just to test drive the car. I did, by now my trip in on the edge of being cancelled just to close the deal. Of course being in the service cancelling trips is not an option. So I told them I will be back in a week can they hold the car if I gave them a down payment. As I was reaching into my pocket my "black berry" started to vibrate which only meant my boss is calling wondering if I left the area yet. It was my day, it was the boss alright he was not calling to see if I left the area yet, he was calling to tell me he saw me headed to the dealer and if I didn't buy the car and gave him a ride in it it will hell to pay. Enough said, left the suburban at the dealer and drove home with a "2000 Artic silver Boxster S" with 32k mile on the odometer and smelling like new Prosche. At times to changes something in our life we need to push the envelope further. Yes summer haven't been the same, actually any sunnydays and not raining in southern maryland haven't been the same. Ben

I looked for the link to instructions on this site but no luck. Could you help me out? My key is stuck in the on position. :huh: I had to kill the motor and disconnect the battery and then leave the front trunk open so I can get at the battery again. I called the dealer but he just says bring it in. That's a 30 mile tow from here. I do have a shop manual on CD from the UK. It told me to put a wire in the slot along side the tumbler while the key is in and tumbler will just come out. A large paperclip did the job. The key cylinder came out with the key. The key also came out of the cylinder. However, when I cleaned it up and put it back in, the key just gets stuck again, so the problem is the ignition switch. I can't figure out how to get it out without removing the whole dash. UK shop manual is no help there except I get the idea that in order to remove the dash (should that be needed) I first need a PhD in rocket science. (2001 Boxster S) Replacing the Ignition Switch Your a licky man. My ignition in my 99 996 failed (key was would not go back into ignition) and I was in a parking lot a ways from home and I had to replace the whole tumbler assembly. $ 600 bucks :cursing: Oh well. First problem I ever had with the car. Phillipj I meant lucky not licky...Sorry I'm not an electrical expert. I ran into the same thing when I first got my Boxster and it was during the cold season. The ignition switch was hard to turn on first try in the morning. I thought it just needed to be lubricated so I sprayed it with some electrical contact cleaner you can get at your local parts store. All summer had no problem till the weather hits 35 and below in my area sprayed it yesterday so far no problem. Maybe someone who knows how this is contructed internally and maybe it will enlighten me as to why it's hard to rotate when it is cold. Ben