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t32b

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Everything posted by t32b

  1. As I've posted recently, I've been lucky enough to purchase a 1988 911 Turbo. It's in outstanding condition. After fixing/adjusting a few odds and ends, the only thing that is less than brand new is the radio. Surprisingly, I don't have any issue with it's performance. I want to keep the car bone stock. But the light on the LCD display doesn't work. So I'm looking for some help here. Can it be replaced with an 'as-new' identical model? Can it be repaired (which is my preference)? And does anyone have the model number and manual for it? It's a Blaupunkt but is otherwise unlabeled. Thanks, V
  2. I have a new (to me) 1988 turbo. It's in excellent condition but, as is often the case, the front splitter (the black plastic edging below the front painted lower) has a few small cracks and repaired 'nibbles' in it. I'd like to order a new one and either store it, or replace the one on the car (allowing me to do some better repairs). I store a spare for my 997S.1 and Ford GT for equivalent emergencies and/or paranoia. Can anyone pass along the details? Part number(s)? Vendor? And a how-to for the transplant? Thanks in advance, V
  3. I don't have a lot of experience here but I just bought an '88 930 after doing some research. My impression is that the transmission in the '85 versus '88 is not substantially different, at least on the turbo's. And that they are not hard and clunky but rather a bit inaccurate requiring some care in placing the stick carefully for gear selection. Of all of the reasons to not buy an '80's Porsche, I don't think this is it.
  4. Well, I decided to circumvent the issue by buying a new Fabspeed x-pipe, rather than repair the broken lugs in the stock cats (I'll fix them anyway and keep them in case I want to return the car back to stock someday). The combined install took some time, but went quite smoothly. However, after a day of driving, the car through a CEL. I don't know if this is an issue with the Fabspeed pipe, my install or the headers (doubt that last one). Looks like I'm going to have to take the car in after all. Disappointing after doing all that work. Any recommendations or ideas (re the likely culprit) would be welcomed.
  5. Ran in to a problem and could really use some help. I've taken my time on this project, lube-ing the header and cat bolts a few times in the last week or so before I begin the procedure. Today, I went out to begin the work. The great news is that I succeeded in loosening all of the header bolts. Left them on there, but the riskiest part is done. I tried to loosen the cat-side nuts and two immediately snapped off. So, the question is whether the 'bolt' (the head being on the cat side of the connection) will just push out, or is it welded to the assembly. A couple of light taps on the end of the broken shaft did not move it, but I thought I'd ask first. Very frustrating. Thanks
  6. Does anyone have the specifications for the header bolts (rather than the Porsche p/n)? I would like to order a stainless steel set (and washers?) to use when replacing my headers, but need the specs because Porsche does not sell SS for the 997S. I know I can pull out the old ones and measure, but then the car is down while I wait for new bolts by mail. Thanks
  7. Nice post. I have the MoBridge and have been very happy with it. Though I have a cab and the microphone is understandably useless when the top is down :( I didn't have the courage to do the install - just daunted by the optical cable work. Probably could have done it. The one tip I'll offer is that the tech who installed it (who had installed quite a few apparently) chose to place the unit on the drivers side, virtually directly under the steering wheel shaft. It has the mini-sd slot directly accessible if you peer under the dash there. Turned out to be useful in that I had to re-install the firmware when, after replacing my battery, the unit stopped working. Booting it from an sd card with a firmware upgrade from the MoBridge site fixed it all.
  8. Someone does. Here it is: http://www.gtn-automotive.com/gtn/sites/start_e.html I'd love to get one, but it's a bit pricey.
  9. I'm another 05 owner. Bought mine with 20K miles on it and now have about 34K. So far no issues. Despite the comments about the 2005's being more troublesome (and newer being better in general), I haven't seen any numbers that can really cite the difference. Congratulations on the purchase. I have an '05 too. Porsche managed to make a terrific first-year car with relatively few issues, a challenge for any carmaker. But with reports floating around these boards of M96/M97 IMS failures, it's a depressing thought to spend $20k for a new motor in a low-mileage "premium" car. Since this is a go-to place for technical problems, you're likely to hear from most of the owners with an engine failure and internet connection. You're also likely not to hear from the people out there driving their cars trouble-free (unless they're asking about bodykits and carbon fiber bits for their dashboard... :D ) With conflicting claims of denied warranty claims and out-of-warranty grace on Porsche's part, it makes people anxious. What if? Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. Enjoy the car and don't worry so much about what may come, and avail yourself of resources (your warranty, PCNA, etc.) if things go bad. Of course, Murphy's law means I'll drive home and hear my bearing fail. Cross your fingers for me. :)
  10. The actual numbers at any given temp/rpm/load have some variance in them between cars, so a specific citing is immaterial unless the pressure drops to the lower end of the scale. On the other hand, pressure readings that move inversely to RPM's is definitely not normal. If at all possible, I would have the car examined under warranty to see of there are any blockages or other problems. When was the oil/filter last changed? It could be (and this is really theoretical) that under high rpms some vacuum (caused by restricted flow) is affecting the reading and your actual pressure. I'd be concerned. But then again, I'm a worrier. :)
  11. My vote is the Borla. The weight savings is significant, the installation is simpler, and the sound is outstanding. I considered both (well the PSE and Fabspeed) as well as the cross-pipe mod to the stock exhaust which is relatively modest expense. I went with the Fabspeed because I got an outstanding price on a pre-owned set and couldn't be happier. I'd have done the same with the Borla had the opportunity presented itself. Both are very high quality items and the Borla might sound even better (if that is possible) than the FS's. GL. You'll really like the results. BTW, the fact that you can't 'quiet' the Fabspeed (or Borla's) is a non-issue to me. When I want them to be quiet (e.g. around my suburban neighborhood) I simply go light on the throttle. These types of pipes only really only open up when the throttle is opened or at high RPM. At low settings they are like little pussycats.
  12. Like larez2, it is not wise or safe to mix tires front to rear (or side to side for that matter) on any car, no less a high-performance car. Whether or not you track the car, the difference in performance characteristics between the two pair will create some risk for you when driving. All that said, I would recommend you get a set of F1's so that when they, and the front wear out, you can toss them all and get a better set of tires. I have a set of F1's on my Ford GT (2005) and they are legend in the GT community to be absolutely terrible tires. Unfortunately for GT owners, tires of the equivalent specs don't exist so many are forced to replace them with the same ones. Needn't be true for your Porsche.
  13. +1 And I'll add two more points. I've had a few questionable experiences with these 'fast oil change' organizations (but no, I've never taken the P-car or the GT there). Quality of parts and work are both quite questionable. The Porsche is a car that they rarely work on, and is less tolerant of errors. But the real issue is that when you have the dealer change your oil, you're also paying an expert to look over the car, and implicitly inspect the business end of the car for anomalies - creating the opportunity to catch problems before they become big ones. Neither home oil change (I do the oil change on my Toyota and Lexus cars - which are more appropriately 'appliances') nor speedy ones will add that value. So, pay the money. FWIW, $600 seems high, but the car was 150X that much. For oil changes? I'm afraid I disagree - perhaps the largest ripoff in the industry. How is it a rip off? You pay them to do a service and they do it. Technically a car wash could be considered the biggest rip off. You pay somepne $30 to put water and soap on your car, take a rag, and move their arms around in a circular motion. Then put more water on your car. I'm sure that the cost for parts for a car wash is less than $3.00. That's a 1000% mark up. Not to mention that this person is probably some dude who walked up and got a job and doesn't know anything about your car, let alone how to properly wash it. And how many times do you get your car washed per year? 20? That's $600 in car washes that you could have done yourself. And car washes are a lot less technical than actually working on your car and a lot less idoit proof. At least the oil accounts for 70% of the cost of an oil change. The other 30% is labor and like I said, I don't mind a certified Porsche tech "looking" at my car once a year just for the heck of it. You never know what they may see while they are under there. An ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure. So why would someone take their car to a hand car wash, but feel the need to change their own oil?
  14. Beautiful car. And a number of nice mods. I'm interested in the wheel spacers. Does anyone know whether those (15/7) are the appropriate sizes for the 997S as well? By the way, I just did an Alcantera upgrade on mine - wheel from a GT3 RS, shift boot and knob, and p-brake handle - as well as the Porsche brand short shift kit. Subject to taste, it looks and feels fantastic. Irrespective of taste, the short shift vastly improves the speed, feel and crispness of the gearbox. Enjoy the new ride.
  15. Just want to thank you for this tip. I hadn't found my way to this/these setting(s). And I don't have any idea how this got set. But it's all fixed. Again, many thanks. Rich
  16. My 2005 CarreraS Cab (U.S. model) with PCM/Nav has an odd problem. Driving back from SF one night, the PCM map display got 'stuck' on a specific point in the city. Every since then (two months now, I haven't had time to make it to the dealer), the map point will not 'move'. The PCM/Nav works - that is, I can program in new locations, and it will guide me there with arrows and voice, but when I switch to 'map', it remains in the same place. I can zoom in and out but always around the same point. I've pulled the fuse to the PCM (I think), to try to reset it, pulled the Nav DVD for the same reason - to no avail. It's weird and freaky. Any ideas? I DO have to make it to the dealer for an oil change and a broken horn (!), but would like to know how to fix it myself. Thanks, Rich
  17. Completely agree. I'd recommend the list of changes - sorted by increasing risk of handling 'challenges' is: 1. Match brands/tread patterns. There really is variance in tire characteristics - often not an issue of good or bad, but just difference. Such a mismatch = imbalanced handling; 2. Changing brands while respecting the constraints of #1 (above). Interesting tradeoffs in performance here - weather, head, durability, sticky-ness, rolling resistance. FWIW, I changed out my Pirelli P Zero's to Michelin P2's and couldnt be happier. Absolute stick maybe a bit less - but much more linear breakaway, improved ride quality. 3. Replicate the sizing of your car or, if you want to go with larger tires, go with the sizing of the CarreraS - front and rear. I don't believe there is a geometry change (not certain here) between the Carrera and the CarreraS (both 2wd version for example). Generally I have a lot of faith in those smart engineers over in Stuttgart. The chance that you'll outguess them is not that high; 4. Wheel size/tire size/offsets experiments. This gets tough. So many variables, and probablity of an successful experiment is rather low. I'd try to copy some other expert - racer or tuner based on your goal - rather than rolling the dice yourself. Beautiful car you've got there though. Enjoy it.
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