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seafeye

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Everything posted by seafeye

  1. Maybe this can help...I have a 330CIC and a Boxster. The boxster i find is cheap. (Except for the 9 quarts of oil). All parts that i can get for the boxster are cheap compared to the BMW. I took the BMW in for the 60k service and $900 later. But all i can see that was done was the oil change and new wipers. (They installed them wrong). They even rotated my tires front to back. (Different sizes). A little "M" sticker on the wheels came off while washing the car and $10 for a replacement. Now i have oil smell or exhause smell inside the car. Don't know if it is a leaking valve gasket or exhaust but it stinks. Now i just drive the boxster. The 330 gets only 5k/year tops. Tires will be more for the 911. Servicing should be cheaper for the 911. Parts cheaper for the porsche Fuel milage will be better with the BMW on paper. Insurance...who knows. My boxster is cheaper. Maybe because it's not worth anything. 911 would be much more fun. IMO :D
  2. Where did you go in CLT? I need my Airbag light taken care of. Thanks
  3. The AC Climatronic unit is actually manufactured by Audi. There is some sort of serial data stream (not CAN) that allows the AC unit to display engine parameters. This works on 1997-2000 boxsters. To switch from F to C: Hold down the recirculating button then push both the temperature + - buttons. To access diagnostics: Hold down the Recirculating & Air up buttons for 5 seconds. The + - buttons go up and down through the list of "c" codes. The center vent button switches the left display between the "c" code and its actual value. Press the Auto button to exit. Here is a list of what can be seen: 0c - ERL 1c - Oil Temp? 2c - Inside temp. Sensor mounted in the aspirator assembly at the side of the dash. 3c - Outside temp. Sensor located inside the air inlet of the A/C unit. 4c - Outside temp. Sensor located in front grill of the radiator. The data is fed to the Climatronic from the instrument cluster. When not moving, the instrument cluster OBC temp display retains it's last setting until moving. This is to prevent heat emanating from the radiator affecting the temperature sensor. The A/C unit uses the lower of the two outside air temp values in determining fresh-air temp. 5c - Outside temp. (matches with OBC outside temp display) 6c - Coolant temp. 7c - Footwell discharge temp. 8c - Sun sensor (dash top) 9c - Sun sensor. 10c - Passenger compartment fan speed. 11c - Passenger compartment fan voltage. 12c - Temperature mix Flap command 1=COLD, 100=HOT 13c - Temperature mix Flap position 14c - Central Flap command 15c - Central Flap position 16c - Footwell/Defrost Flap command 17c - Footwell/Defrost Flap position 18c - Recirculation Valve command 1=OFF, 100=RECIRC 19c - Recirculation Valve position (feedback) 20c - Vehicle speed in kph, updating only once per second. (real speed, not speed+safety margin as in the speedometer) 21c - Engine RPM in hundreds. This too only updates once per second. 22c - ? 23c - ? 24c - Sun sensor, exterior lights switch & panel lights control (term. 58 & 58d voltage) - used for A/C panel display illum. 25c - ? 26c - ? 27c - ? 28c - Fan speed? 29c - ? 30c - Engine run time in seconds (255 max.)(=0xff) 31c - Timing counter 32c - Displays test 33c - Software version? Mine states 3.4 34c - ? 35c - Outside temp. from inlet sensor (filtered?) 36c - temp?
  4. It appears as though it is the tubes. Order 6 tubes and there are 12 seals. Also get the proper tool for removal. I hear you can use a screwdrive end but it didn't work for me.
  5. So i went back to Autozone to get the 1" bushings, they were a bit big. The 3/4" were way too small. So i kinda cut some of the plastic out to make it fit snug. Armed with plenty of grease i put the bushing in. The sway bar measured 23.45mm. So if i was to do this again i would use the 23mm bushing. Part #95127R for the front. Or #95128R if that is all they had in stock. I can't tell you if the bushings made any difference at all. I drove it around and if anything i have more roll. Doesn't seem any tighter than before. So long.....$40 Oh and to change the bushings i did the following.... I took out the sway bar completely so i could give it a good cleaning so that is why i removed more items than listed above. 1) Removed the four 10mm plastic nuts on front tray and the 6 or so metal clips, tray will now fall on your head. 2) Removed four 15mm bolts holding the bushing on, (2 on each side), two 18mm bolts holding a control arm (1 on each side), two 16mm bolts holding a cover plate, (You guess it, 1 on each side). Four 15mm bolts holding a cross brace in the center of the car. 3) Removed 15mm bolt holding the sway bar drop link. You willl need a 17mm wrench as well to hold it. 4) Now the sway bar can be removed from car. Grease and replace in reverse order. 5) Drive in the snow.... The rear is just like above.
  6. Found this link.... http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html The part# listed above seems to be for the greaseable type. Would you recommend one or the other? Just bought the bushings... the part number 95156R isn't correct. If you look at the energy suspension web page 95156R is for the 3/4" and there isn't any way it would work with this smaller size. I believe the correct part number for the front is 95161R. 1" size.
  7. I think it started in 1995 with the 993's. The C4 got titanium calipers, The regular 993 C2 just had black. Red was reserved for the turbo or turbo look. If i remember correctly you could order painted calipers in your colour of choice.
  8. Lol... yea i'll get RIGHT on that ;) :eek: I sometimes wonder if Durametric is holding back features because Porsche doesn't want them to be public. Might be worried about being sued. But for a backyard mechanic you can do pretty much anything to your own car. And if you can hack into the DME i am sure there would be plenty of people that would wax your car for free in order to get a deeper look into their cars. Start writing the code... This is a great book that gets you thinking about what is possible. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Management-Sy.../ref=pd_sim_b_5
  9. Hi Loren Got a replacement radio for my burnt out unit.... Its a CDR-210 Serial # W5022028 Thanks Tim
  10. I am 5 10, my car has the electric seats and i have no where near 2" for the broomstick test. Time to get a roll bar extension....
  11. I actually have the mud kit myself. It works well to get out the small scratches but you have to be carefull that you don't heat the glass to the point it will crack. Also if you get the smaller kit you can't really use a drill. The pad ends up walking over the window and you can't get enough grip to move it in the direction that you need it to. So you really need the sander tool that they have in the picture. My neighbour used to own a windshield repair business and he told me he used the stuff on hard to find replacement parts. So give this a try or get a new windshield for about $500 installed....maybe less.
  12. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...temType=PRODUCT
  13. Might sound basic but start with the rear pax wheel then the rear drivers and then the right front and then finally the left front. This is assuming that you have a left hand drive car. You can replace the lines in any order but you must bleed in this one. Buy a power bleeder. China Freight has a one way valve that makes bleeding easy. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=98864 And Sears for your flare wrench set. Maybe someone else can chime in but i don't think Porsche approves synthetic brake fluid.
  14. I like using the accessory belt from a Ford Ranger...So far has lasted longer than the Porsche one. Also spoke to some tech at Penzoil and they tell me that their coolent is guaranteed to work in the boxster. Looks like a fun project. Good Luck
  15. I think under your front hood there is a sticker that shows different tire sizes. It should show for 18" wheels. Other than that there are people using 255's on the front. (5-6mm spacers) they would most likely rub the liners. So the 235's i think will be a great choice for the front. The 265's might be good too but too much tire on the back will rob horsepower. http://ejelta.com/tiresize/index.html?ws17=1&
  16. Sorry I totally forgot about that. Will recommend in the future! Why not....Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost - Sunset Imports They had the full 15 volume set for $200 a while back. Great deal. The copies that you will find on line aren't complete. The wiring diagrams are not accurate. And there are a lot of pages that are double wide that get lost when scanning. I would either buy the bentley or the factory manuals. You can always sell them later.
  17. First pick up the December edition of Excellence (Mag about Porsche Cars) from Barnes and Noble. Great article about the m96 motors. You could do www.car-part.com and buy a motor from a wrecker. Problem is you will end up with a ticking time bomb. Or if your engine isn't too badly damaged you can get it rebuilt. Figure $10,000 for a rebuilt unit. But that will last you till you get a new car. http://www.flat6innovations.com/ http://www.lnengineering.com/
  18. Do a craigslist search in Virginia and there is some guy there selling interior pieces. http://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/916438049.html
  19. Wow i am surprised....sounds like all they wanted was the money.
  20. Got it today at Barnes and Noble. I used to subsribe to Excellence but i kinda like supporting the local stores and sitting down reading the mag with a cup of java. I saw that you had a picture of extrudabody but there wasn't really any info about it. Do you have an engine running with it? Looks great but i wonder how it all will work with Porsche's DME. I'm sure Porsche won't make this conversion easy. Looking at your website (Great btw) there are a lot of upgrades that can be done to the motors. Something in the article that wasn't mentioned is the timing chain failures and the wear on the rails. I don't think i ever saw the wear on an early 911 motor like on the m96. The rails are severely pitted, chains falling apart. I haven't looked on the parts list but i wonder what generation of chains they are on and if they are actually stronger. From what i understand the IMS was removed in the newer motors because Porsche now has chains that can withstand the strain. Sounds like a great upgrade if available. The article did mention that the pistons were of excellent quality. So why do you recommend replacing? Compatability with the nikisel cylinders? Do you know if anyone has changed the 2.5 to a 2.7 by going to a 996 crank? or only through larger pistons? Autofarm says that they put a "Key" in the cylinders to prevent them from turning in the case. I didn't see LN Engineering mention this. Unnessasary? Well that's all i can think of for now....Cheers...
  21. I guess it's up to you to do the write up.... Here is what i have...I bought the manuals from Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost. The sponsor of this web site. $200 for all the 15 books. Anyway here is what i have...You will have to do this from the top. So put the top in the service position, remove engine cover... 1)Get the radio code. Disconnect the battery. 2)Remove Air Guide between throttle body and air filter.Take out vent line from between intake distributor and oil seperator. 3)Loosen both hose clamps at intake distributor. Unscrew fastening screws for fuel pipe at intake distributor. 4)Loosen bracket for throttle body on the crank case. Swing intake distributor and throttle body upwards by approx 45 degrees and remove bracket on the throttle body. 5)Loosen cable at terminal 30 and terminal 50 at solenoid switch. Undo both hexagon head bolts on the starter and remove ground cable. Withdraw starter upwards from its bracket. And take lots of pictures please....
  22. You can get away fairly unharmed and easy too. You will pay the fine. That is what the ticket is all about. The cops only care about the money. They don't want to give you points or have your insurance go up. They just want your money. With that said this is all you have to do to do this. Sign the back of the ticket saying that you would like your day in court. If you can't go to court cause it is too far away then hire a lawyer to represent you for the hour or so. Plea no contest and ask the court to withhold points based on your perfect driving record. They will do this. Pay the fine and court costs and go on your way. Your insurance company cannot raise your rates for this one time offence. If you get caught a second time then tell the court that you will take a driving course and to withhold the points. They will. They just want the money. Third time is when you pull out the gloves and start looking for mistakes that the police made. Keep in mind all the judges want is money!
  23. Found this link.... http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/swaybbct.html The part# listed above seems to be for the greaseable type. Would you recommend one or the other?
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