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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Unless you have a tool that would get in there, you are better off removing the throttle body.
  2. Both the battery and the alternator can be tested by most auto parts stores, or any decently equipped shop. While it could be the battery but is more likely an alternator issue.
  3. Labor rates vary widely with geography, but you are going to be into a couple grand.
  4. Welcome to RennTech Unfortunately, your original problem mirrors common complaints when a clutch is on the way out. I would do two things: Rebleed the clutch hydraulic system and see what happens, if that doesn't do it, it may very well be clutch time.
  5. Porsche buys the column as a subassembly from an outside contractor and just pops it into the car; parts for the subassembly at not part of Porsche's parts system, they would have to get them from the contractor, which is often more trouble to Porsche than it is worth, which is why most people go bone yard hunting for used units. Plus, as these cars age, the parts subcontractor may have changed the design, and the parts may no longer exist. In any case, I for one am sincerely glad you got it sorted. Good job 👍
  6. These units work by hydraulics, and it is not unusual for problems to be associated with low fluid levels in the system. Do a search for posts about servicing this system and you will find out a lot more on the subject.
  7. Welcome to RennTech You need to do more than listen for a "click", defective valves can still make sounds when power is applied, but did it open or close? Sound is not going to tell you that. We prefer to bench test these valves to make sure they are actually working. You also need to know that any lines attached to them flow freely.
  8. If you have checked the wheel speed sensors at the wheel and have gotten a good signal for each of the ones reporting errors, I would start testing (continuity, resistance, short to ground, etc.) for each of the sensor wiring harness circuits from the wheels to the DME. It is unusual for multiple wheel speed sensors to go nuts all at the same time, which may indicate a crimped or damaged harness.
  9. Another fun job, not because it is hard, but because it involves making room for it to move. All the trim panels below the shaft need to come out, it is a lot easier with the driver’s side seat out, all of the electronics involving the steering system (turn signals, cruise control, OBC, etc) need to be disconnected at the harness connection points, any AC ducts in the way have to come out, the wheel itself needs to come off (more for room than anything else), and the lower shaft to the rack needs to come out. After that it a few fasteners and the upper assembly will become free and you can pull it out.
  10. Welcome to RennTech There are a couple of less than obvious reasons why this may be happening, first check the "child safety" system that keep the little ones from playing with the windows or opening the rear doors, if it is engaged, the seat heaters are turned off. Second, check the interior temperature sensor up on the dash, if that becomes disconnected for any reason. they won't work either.
  11. Loren is correct, unless you have allowed air to get into the ABS/PSM control network, it is not necessary to activate the system during a bleed/flush; dealerships and shops don't use one unless there is a problem as the activation actually slows down the service process, and in their world, time is money.
  12. Just be aware that has to be a questionable setup, since the very first version of the PIWIS, Porsche has gone to great lengths to prevent people from upgrading or even updating non-sanctioned versions of this system, and many of the more questionable copies out in the internet are very old, meaning they do not cover models past their last valid use date, and some are even not any form of the real thing; we have even seen so called PIWIS clones that turned out to be a very old version of the Durametric software. Caveat emptor.
  13. Just be aware that a legitimate PIWIS system is a lease only item, first year nearly $20,000.
  14. Unfortunately, several diagnostic companies have made claims that their tools can do things on Porsche's that they clearly cannot, and quite often calls the companies making the claims result in the tool owner being told that a specific function is only for certain model years, or that it will be "added in a future upgrade" that ultimately never happens. Porsche has always used a proprietary diagnostic logic system that has been very hard to crack or duplicate. Durametric has probably come the closest with perhaps 80-85% functionality, but even they cannot do the PDK, and say as much on the subject.
  15. Unfortunately, to my knowledge, there has never been a parts break out for the unit under the dash as Porsche only supplied it as a complete unit. Sorry.
  16. Welcome to RennTech If the iCarsoft unit can actually do anything with the PDK, this is the first I have heard of it. Several diagnostic companies have claimed to be able to work on the PDK, but to my knowledge, the only system that actually can without creating problems is the factory PIWIS system.
  17. The multifunction switch on the trans is not serviceable, and is a common problem point on these cars. When it starts acting up, you can it and install a new one; it cannot be serviced in any way. Getting it out is an exercise in dexterity and tool selection, most simple move what is in the way and then get at it. As for how much it costs, the multifunction switch is a fraction of the price of a Tip control module, the sell for nearly $2,000 here.
  18. Welcome to RennTech I think you may be looking at the wrong component, the PST II says the multifunction switch, which is on the side of the trans under the car:
  19. Welcome to RennTech The 2011 car would carry the SDI version DME. Failures of these units are pretty rare unless they have been tampered with (to Loren's point), which is a good thing considering the cost of replacing one. At this juncture, I would get all current and pending codes as a starting point; even the DME has a code for when it fails, so those codes are important.
  20. If it were mine, I would flatbed it if I were in your situation. Without more detailed diagnostics, there is no way to know what is likely to happen or determine probabilities of failures. In the end, it is your car and your money, and your decision.
  21. P1341 indicates that the cam angle on bank 1 is either out of range or that it cannot read it (plausibility). You either have a cam sensor on the way out, the actuator solenoid is problematic (Stuck due to debris in the oiling system), or the Vario Cam unit itself is bad. I would test the sensor and consider replacing the solenoid if the sensor is good.
  22. Move the lines, once they are loose, you should be able to get in there and torque it properly.
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