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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. More common than you might imagine, Porsche used a strange design cam follower that is very easily susceptible to varnish build up and particulate debris.
  2. Yes, cam followers can bleed down, and can be replaced. Not a small project, however.
  3. Not really, there only so much a digital multimeter can tell you about systems with control modules in them; they cannot see the module programming, state of activity, or read the signals they send out to see if they are correct. You are limited to voltage, continuity, and amperage; which may not answer the question. This is the problem when you have digital "thinking" modules in a electrical control circuit; you need to know what the module is, or isn't thinking, which requires a more sophisticated tool.
  4. As a general rule, no, module replacements typically require either programming or activation steps requiring a PIWIS.
  5. Yes, or it could be a commination's fault, an "implausible" signal in the system from sensor, a module that has lost its programing, etc. The question is which one and what fault, and where is it, which only a scan would answer. You could spend a lot of time chasing your tail not knowing where to start.
  6. It could pinpoint where the fault is in the system, dramatically reducing diagnostic time.
  7. Please do not "bump" posts, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when joining.
  8. You can find the complete coverage by model and year here: Durametric
  9. Most quality shops did, just as the followed their “preinstallation inspection “ directives, both of which benefited the car’s owner at no cost to the shops. We regularly had customers ask us about both when shopping for someone to do the retrofit, signs of an informed consumer. DIY’s on the other hand were another story.......
  10. Older AOS units had a single o-ring seal, later units have multiple seals.
  11. Good night. Leave you with a thought: Try a lighted mechanics mirror before jumping for a borescope: It has two LED's to illuminate and is a great time saver. I have both this and a borescope in the shop and reach for this way more than the borescope.
  12. While you have the AOS out, physically compare it to the unit you removed to see if there are any obvious differences.
  13. Something is not right here. I would pull the unit and either use a borescope of a small mirror to see if something is still in the block. Did you say that you had the bolt in and the unit was flush with the engine case when the tube was not all the way in? If that is correct, there is something wrong with that AOS unit. Did you compare it to the unit you pulled out?
  14. OK, something interesting: Here is the part ending in 54: And here is the one ending 55: Notice the difference in the length of the tube that inserts into the block?
  15. OK, let's start with the basics: What year and model is your car? What is the part number of the AOS you are trying to install?
  16. Was this photo taken from under the car? The AOS looks' like it is hitting the case to the left of the tube....
  17. Something is seriously wrong here. We have never had to "hammer" an AOS into position, the normally just pop in with minor pressure. Are you sure you have the correct AOS? Are you sure it isn't hitting something that is preventing it from seating?
  18. That is the neutral safety switch; the reverse light switch is under the console as pictured above.
  19. While someone has obviously butchered the car for some reason, you should be able to either recreate the harness, or get one from a breakers yard to put the car back together correctly.
  20. Opps That is for the manual, yours is a Tip, so it is under the center console:
  21. Welcome to RennTech It is under the car on the transmission, replacement procedure: http://www.locodemoto.com/transfer/Replacing-Reverse-Lights-Back-Up-Lights-Switch.pdf
  22. Did you lubricate the seals before installing? A little silicone lube goes a long way here...………...
  23. Not really, other than the battery (always be safety mined). The trick here is you are only dropping it a couple of inches to give you access to the AOS. As long as you don't go nuts with the process, it is quick and simple. We always used a fabricated cradle to hold the engine while doing this, but it can be done with a block of wood and a jack if you are careful.
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