Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Whoever told you the entire axle has to be replaced is simply taking the easy way out and trying to replace the entire axle assembly. The boots are available as parts as shown in your diagram. So unless the axle is damaged, or the CV joints are bad, they are taking the easy way out, right through your wallet..................
  2. The CV joints at both ends of your axles are housed inside flexible rubber boots that dry out and slit over time, allowing grease to be thrown out:
  3. Welcome to RennTech First, don't panic. When you leave the oil cap off, the AOS is unable to maintain the correct level of vacuum in the oil sump that helps the very low-tension piston rings in these engines seal. So, no vacuum, no ring seal, and lots of oil gets up into the combustion chambers. Once the oil cap is back, everything returns to normal and the rings seal back up. Just make sure the oil level is correct, and I would add some Techron gas additive to the tank and fill it up. A couple of nice long drives should get rid of any residual oil 😉
  4. The causes for this DTC may include: *Contaminated or failed HO2S2 (Sensor 2) *HO2S2 wiring/circuit problem *Fuel pressure incorrect *Faulty fuel injector *Engine coolant leak *Faulty purge solenoid valve
  5. DTC 9110 indicates the DME is not communicating, could be the DME, but as you have been switching harnesses around, I'd start by checking to make sure the harness is good (no breaks or shorts, lose connections, etc.) before swapping out the DME.
  6. No need to apologize, it takes years of working on these engines before you become proficient in "Porsche speak"............🙃
  7. If this is what you are referring to: Porsche literature describes it differently (lifter housing), but to answer your question, there is no particular procedure to remove it, but it needs to be retorqued to 7.5 ft. lbs. when reinstalled
  8. Can you be more specific on what "follower plate" you are referring to?
  9. Brake fluids have a defined shelf life, usually around two years in unopened metal containers, but I have no data on plastic. This is exactly why it is always a good idea to own a brake fluid moisture tool, which is cheap insurance. 😉
  10. Then I would say to leave them submerged in the oil until you are ready to install them; they sound like they are ready to go.
  11. They should individually be pumped up while submerged in oil, and should come firm when the air is out of them. Then leave them submerged until you are ready to install them.
  12. Welcome to RennTech Thermostat may have failed; I would check the hose running from the engine to the radiator when the car is running and warmed up; if it is cold, either the thermostat is stuck, or radiator is blocked. You can check the radiator for blockage by using a non-contact pyrometer to see if some of it runs cold or cooler when other sections are hot.
  13. That is going to require it be scanned with a Porsche factory diagnostic system, PIWIS. I am unaware of any aftermarket tool that can do that.
  14. The part you replace is correct for the code, so the question becomes why the DME isn't seeing the correct data. Does your live data read out show the pressure signal from the sensor moving in the correct directions (vacuum to pressure and back) when the engine is revved? Are you sure the DME has never been reflashed (aftermarket software often interferes with sensor signals to gain performance)?
  15. The Porsche tool for holding the cams (Tool 9624) holds both at the same time:
  16. Welcome to RennTech The problem happened because I don't see any mention of locking the cams, a critical step, to keep them from turning while releasing the hydraulic chain tensioners when doing the IMS, which will cause this exact problem. If the cams are not held in a locked position, valve spring pressure will cause them to try and rotate, and with the chain tensioners release, it usually caused the engine to jump time and pull the IMS shaft to one side. Once this happens, you are not going to get it back to center without a lot of effort. Most likely, you are in
  17. Yes, you probably need the control unit, plus having it initialized by the Porsche diagnostic tool.
  18. Usually, intermittent faults are stored as "pending codes", although O2 sensor codes can clear themselves if the DME sees the system going back to normal activities. As I do not know how your tool handles that, I cannot specifically say where you may find them. I would be looking at how the sensors are performing from a voltage standpoint, both sensor on either side is expected to remain within certain limits, of one of them is occasionally wander outside those limits, it can delay the reset, but that would need to be captured in real time. Intermittant faults are always the hardest to nail
  19. Are you sure that the sensor in question is working properly? An intermittent fault can cause the system to not reset.
  20. Welcome to RennTech Most likely the cylinder head. If it cannot be extracted with the head on, it will need to be removed and sent to a machine shop to drill it out and extract it.
  21. This phenomenon is not unknown; when the battery goes weak, communications with one or more modules can be lost. When that happens, the module needs to be reinitialize, which requires the correct diagnostic system.
  22. That code is for the pressure sensor in the ABS system; could be the sensor itself, but considering when it happens on your car, you could be boiling the brake fluid. Have you checked the moisture level in the system? If it isn’t that, most likely it is the system pump, but I would eliminate all possibles first as the pump is pricey.😣
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.