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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Just be sure you understand the complete rules on waivers. In PA, the published repair waiver cost threshold is $150. That said, the actual rules are a lot more complicated as only emissions devices (EVAP, PCV, catalytic converters, etc.) equipment (no labor) are covered; fails caused by cam timing devices are not part of the waivers program and would not be considered applicable. The shop doing the inspection has to put their butts on the line by stating what is causing the failure(s) and the testing equipment has to transmit confirming data to the state system via a direct data link or the waiver fails. The shop also has to certify that there are no non factory modifications to the vehicle, and that all the covered systems are OEM and not aftermarket. That opens a can of worms as the state auditor can require you to show them the vehicle involved. If they don’t agree with the shop’s assessments, they can pull your certification on the spot. Net result is that very few repair cost waivers ever get issued, for obvious reasons.
  2. You should be able to activate both systems with a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric or the all mighty PIWIS system. If that doesn’t work, you need to start looking at your harnesses........
  3. P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit Possible fault cause - Incorrect main charge signal - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Mechanical fault in injection valves - PCV valve leaks - Cap of oil filler neck leaking - Leaks in exhaust system - EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open) - EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults P0011 - Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 1 – Signal Implausible Incorrect camshaft timing Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system Continuous oil flow to VarioCam piston chamber Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open) Failing cam position sensor There is no way they are going to let this slide and risk their license. Most likely, the 2187 is caused by the 0011 fault. That is not a "vacuum leak" issue, it is a mechanical or electrical fault with the variable cam timing control on bank 1.
  4. Welcome to RennTech Why not find out why you are getting the MIL lamp and fix it? What code(s) are you getting? It may not even cost the $450...………..
  5. Test is run at idle, engine fully warmed up (15-20 min drive), should not see greater than 5 inches of water vacuum signal.
  6. Becoming non functional, normally due to age, but could be a faulty sensor.
  7. You need to look at the voltages; the ones ahead of the cats should cycle very quickly in a sine wave fashion, the one behind the cat should be relatively steady. If the one ahead of the cat is cycling slowly, or not at all, it is showing age out condition's.
  8. What do the voltage traces for the O2 sensors before and after the cats look like on bank #2? Whose O2 sensors did you install?
  9. Allows engine oil to cool and lubricate the bearing.
  10. Welcome to RennTech If the engines was sourced from Porsche in 2016, it would have the oversized non serviceable IMS bearing.
  11. Connect a digital manometer in place of the oil fill cap and start the car; fully warm, you should see no more than 5 inches of water vacuum signal. Any higher than that, the AOS is toast.
  12. Used with appropriate care, it is possible, but considering the damage list from pressure washing that has come into the shop over the years (dented panels, lifted paint, blown out seals, flattened tires, damaged brakes, holed cabriolet tops, emblems blown off, ripped bumper covers, etc. etc.), I would still caution against its use. The problem with these devices always lies with the operator, who seem to believe that is one PSIG is good, and two is even better, then forth seven has got to be just right; and that is when all Hell breaks loose...……………....
  13. Welcome to RennTech A common problem with Porsche's is a bad ignition switch, which cause all sorts of electrical gremlins and failures.
  14. As with most things Porsche electrical, the connectors on the harness are the limiting factor. The control module should have come with the harness if purchased new, but people never pull them out of cars when parting out. Too much effort.
  15. Then set your speed limit alarm in your onboard computer.
  16. No restart, repair or replace...………….
  17. When you reversed polarity, you place every electronic system in the car at severe risk; they really don't take well to this. It is entirely possible you have fried the PCM1.
  18. Start by checking your cam deviation values, that will tell you how bad they are (the value limits are +/- 6 degrees). The ramps can be DIY, but they will require special tooling and an understanding of how the cam timing system works. It is also much easier an quicker with the engine out, but can be done with it in.
  19. Yikes! You should NOT be using a power washer on any car as they can generate enough power to blow the paint right off the car, as well as destroying any rubber seal it touches. BAD IDEA!
  20. If you are going to do that, replace the pump as well. These things are not long lived...……...
  21. The word you are looking for is "siphon". Glad you got it sorted.
  22. From the factory, the pump had a thin metal gasket. Bolt torque is 7 ft. lbs., so don't go nuts trying to over tighten them.
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