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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech Absolutely none of that information will identify which style bearing is in the engine; the only proven way to tell is to pull the trans, clutch, and flywheel, and then look at the size of the center bolt. If it is 22MM, you have the non serviceable style bearing. Good luck.
  2. 20 +/- 2 Nm, or 15 +/- 1.5 ft. lbs. Loctite is optional, but use med strength if you do.
  3. You then need to determine if these rub spots happen during turning or under suspension droop. You also need to check if the wheel offset is factory, and if there are spacers in use.
  4. Welcome to RennTech I would put the car up in the air and look for signs of rub contact before doing anything.
  5. Not one that can be reproduced on this website, factory service data are the intellectual property of PCNA. There is an o-ring on the solenoid, and another on a shaft inside the actuator.
  6. Yes, which is the solenoid unit. The $1200 price is probably for the entire actuator assembly.
  7. Should be less than that, perhaps around $400 USD. I have no idea what they sell for in Canada.
  8. Sooner or later it is going to fail completely, which will impact how the engine runs as well as throwing more codes. As Porsche does not sell the seal separately, you only option is to replace the unit. As for the part number, it would be best to have a dealer run your VIN number to make sure you get the correct number.
  9. Most likely triple square (AKA XZN) bolts. I used Snap-on, but a lot of other tool companies make them as well. Amazon also sells them.
  10. Over the years, we have replaced more transmission fluid than I care to remember, all for the same reason: they all were the wrong fluid and caused problems (poor shifting, noise, etc.) Porsche has always used unique full synthetic transmission lubricants which were made to their specifications, and for which there were no aftermarket match because the total number of Porsche cars is too small a market, which is why they tend to be pricey and hard to find outside the dealer network. While some people have had limited success with other products, we only used the Porsche products, and we never had any problems with them.
  11. P1531 is the DTC for the actuator triggering, but no active position. Could be either a wiring issue (open circuit) or a bad actuator. Diagnostics are to check the power supply (B+) and triggering wire for continuity; if both are OK, replace the actuator. As noted above, it probably is the the actuator.
  12. Welcome to RennTech You did not state the year and model, so I am going off what you entered in your account. Porsche code 174 can be one of two DTC codes: P1530 or 1531, which are for different problems. What is your Durametric seeing as the DTC code?
  13. Welcome to RennTech If your DME (what you refer to as an ECU) actually got wet, most of the car would have been under water, so I would not be surprised things aren't working. I assume you are referring to the box under the seat, which is the alarm/immobilizer unit. If that is the case, remove the unit and rinse it out with isopropyl alcohol , which you can get at any grocery or pharmacy. Remove the small fuse on the unit and make sure it did not blow when it got wet. Use a hair dryer to dry out the unit, reassemble and you should be good to go.
  14. And be happy yours in an early car with a cheap switch on the B pillar, the later cars had one that is built in to a $550 driver's side roof transmission that would have to be replaced. Another Porsche "improvement". 😉
  15. P1531 is the code for "no active position" on the VarioCam actuator on bank 1, with three possible faults: Open circuit (wiring issue) Open circuit on power supply wire Defective actuator Diagnostics are to test the B+ actuator power supply wire for power; then check entire actuator harness for continuity. If both are OK, replace the actuator. If you had access to a Porsche specific scan tool such as the Durametric system, you would be able to test actuate the unit with the car running and see if the cam positions change, but I don't think the unit you have is capable of doing that.
  16. Welcome to RennTech You can try to adjust the switch, but most end up replacing it.
  17. I have very rarely seen side air bag wires chafe inside the door unless the window mechanism caught them and tore them up. Usually, the problem is where the wire harness exits the door and enters the main body. In any case, you need to be electrically testing the entire harness, not just looking for obvious damage. You need to disconnect the battery and leave the car alone for at least thirty min.before doing any work. I also prefer to work with a static discharge wrist strap on one arm any time I am working near or on the air bags.
  18. You need to d some electrical diagnostics using tools like a digital multimeter or a Power Probe to check the appropriate circuits for electrical faults. A Porsche specific scan tool is required to check the POSIP system. Extreme care is called for to prevent inadvertently tripping the system and inflating the air bag. If you do not have access to the tools, or a complete understanding of how the air bag and igniter circuits function, take it to a professional as air bag systems are capable of severely injuring or even killing you.
  19. It is a fire rated wire clamp holding in one direction only using a toothed surface, patented in 2001 and held by Gripple Ltd., and agricultural fencing and equipment company in Sheffield England. 😉
  20. Which means it is a Tiptronic, not a PDK transmission, which also means my software suggestion is moot.
  21. I would still have the car checked to see if the PDK has the latest software. Most of these issues seem to be related to that.
  22. Welcome to RennTech While I seriously doubt you actually have a 1985 Boxster with a PDK, similar complaints have been addressed by reprogramming the PDK, which would require the factory PIWIS system to accomplish.
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