JFP in PA

Have the small issue - slow blinking temp light, right after start up. Coolant level is fine. Already replaced radiator cap, and just replaced the coolant level sensor (can be done without draining coolant). light still blinking. Thoughts?

Check your engine compartment fan to make sure it is functional.

Hello AllI am in the middle of some preventative maintenance - put in the LNE bearing yesterday, got the oil separator out today, next is RMS & new clutch with updated release lever, etc.Anyway, when I ordered parts I thought I would try some Denso iridium plugs which Rock Auto lists as "one of our most popular parts", but I see now that the electrode configuration is completely different to the OEM plugs. They are the conventional type with a single ground electrode whereas the OEM ones have 4 ground electrodes. I guess they will probably work but I am reluctant to use them. Any experiences or comments anyone? PS the old IMS bearing was in perfect shape with grease seals on and full of oil at 60K miles

We have used them quite a bit, particularly on turbo cars that are hard on plugs and ***** to change out. Iridium's have a single side electrode and a very small diameter center electrode:The Denso plugs work extremely well, and last a long time.

Lost radio code2002 boxster S (father in laws car--he hasn't had a working radio for months:/ )Becker CDR-220Type 4462Ser: 15005063Thanks!Aaron

Try 9243

not quite sure how to do that.i havent taken amp out before,does it have a fuse,and how do you access power cord to amp?

There should be a wiring harness going to the amp that has both a switched power wire (blue I think, and hot when the radio is on)and a ground (brown). There should also be a second harness that is the signal from the radio and output going to the speakers. Not sure if the amp itself is fused or if it shares a circuit with something else.

cdr23 ,yes amp in trunk

Check the amp to see if it is getting power.

radio has power.it lights up indicates different stations,cd ejects and chooses track,just no sound.

Which model radio, and do you have an amp for it in the front trunk?

no,ill have it scanned,but everything else works fine .

The Durametric system can see and actually test most of the systems on the car in real time, so it is a great time saver when diagnosing electrical problems.I would start with a simple multimeter and test the radio power circuits at the back of the radio to make sure you are getting power there.

OK. You need to understand that doing this often results in some significant damage to the entire electrical system beyond the odd blown fuse; blown relays, non functional computers, and dead alternators are not uncommon, as is burnt wiring. You are going to need to start check the entire electrical system. Do you have access to a Durametric software tool?

In the process of changing the battery, did you by chance momentarily reverse the cable connections?

Hi Guys, I have the code, itd P0455. Wouldn't that explain the issue with gad filling?? Where should I start now?

P0455 is a "large vacuum leak in the evaporative emissions system"; often a bad gas cap, but could also be vacuum lines or valve issues in the EVAP canister system.

Hi All,Does anyone know how high the car has to be jacked up to remove the transmission?Thanks-Rob P.

Almost a trick question, how high is often a matter of personal preference more than a requirement. I've seen it done with a car sitting on two 3 ton jack stands that have a max height of only about 18 inches. Basically, it comes down to how much room you need to get comfortable under there, and what kind of transmission jack you are using to hold the gear box. Personally, I'd like it up as high as possible, but again it comes down to what you have available to you and how you feel about being under there (some get claustrophobic with the car low to the ground, or are simply too tight a fit to work comfortably).

Will know tomorrow morning, unfortunately it won't be porsche diagnosis tool. . .

Depending upon what the code(s) is/are, that may be an issue as aftermarket OBD II cannot see some codes or misreport them. Check it with what you have.

A brief update; i have replaced crankcase ventilation tubes as they were cracked and connected the wrong way. It seems that the idle RPM are not fluctuating. I went back to those guys who replaced the starter and thought that that was the case, the CEL was erased by them but after ca. 60 km came back. Wife says that when she switched off the engine it was on and when she came back and start the car after 9 hours it was on. To bad that i am about 100 km from Porsche Dealer to check if the crankcase tubes solved the issue - partially at least. Guys any ideas now?

What codes this time?

Lost Radio Code I Have a 2002 Boxster CDR-220Type 4462Ser Nbr 25015479 Thanks you in advance, Jim

Try 1308

As both sides rarely fail at the same time, it is usually either the harness has come loose from the switch, or the switch itself. As Loren's DIY shows, it is a relatively simple project to replace it.

While I have no experience with "Torque", the data is mystifying, the engine simply should not do this. That said, I note that all your coolant temps seem quite low for a car equipped with the OEM stat, which does not even begin to open until 186F, and usually is not fully open until around 205-210F. What kinds of temps do you get with this software during normal street driving? If they are as low ( or lower), there is something wrong with the thermostat.

The CDR 23 is "coded" so that it matches the MOST fiber optic system in the car; this way the radio cannot be removed and installed into another vehicle. This is done using either the OEM PST II or PIWIS systems:

Checking the coding of the CDR23 and the amplifier is correct for the vehicle:1. Using the PST2, in the menu "Control units" select "PCM2/CDR23",2. Select menu item "CDR23" and then "Coding",3. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle,4. Select menu item "Amplifier" and then "Coding",5. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle.

I seriously doubt any aftermarket scanner is going to do this.

I would not describe that as "normal". Usually, it takes more power to go faster, which means the engine is pumping out more heat. Even with the increased air flow at speed, both the coolant and the oil tend to get hotter with sustained speed on the track. It is also interesting that the temperature drop is rather sudden when it occurs, which is also counter intuitive. I run a 160 degree stat in my cars, and they do not get cooler the faster they go on the track.

So then the question becomes why is it happening? Your thermostat sounds like it is functioning normally. It may be the temp sensor itself, or perhaps a voltage fluctuation causing the gauge to read this way. You might want to try running a data log on the car while at the track to collect the actual system voltage, oil, and coolant temps at the sensors to see if you get different values more inline with expectations.

The different frequency should not have effected the system, it should have simply ignored the signal because it was not what it expected.

Glad you got it sorted.

Depends upon the year, check their features matrix on the web to see if yours is included.

Additional question: Did you make sure the sensors you used matched the frequency of the TPMS system? Porsche had a radio frequency change at one point and if the wrong sensor frequency is used, the module cannot see the sensors at all as it watches only one frequency.....

OK, it sounds like you need to have it scanned and possibly do a "hard" reset suing the appropriate scan tool.

Did you do the selection after driving the vehicle for about 5-10 miles, or while it was still parked?

Did you reset the system after changing the sensors?

What tool are you scanning the vehicle with?