JFP in PA

The different frequency should not have effected the system, it should have simply ignored the signal because it was not what it expected.

Glad you got it sorted.

Depends upon the year, check their features matrix on the web to see if yours is included.

Additional question: Did you make sure the sensors you used matched the frequency of the TPMS system? Porsche had a radio frequency change at one point and if the wrong sensor frequency is used, the module cannot see the sensors at all as it watches only one frequency.....

OK, it sounds like you need to have it scanned and possibly do a "hard" reset suing the appropriate scan tool.

Did you do the selection after driving the vehicle for about 5-10 miles, or while it was still parked?

Did you reset the system after changing the sensors?

What tool are you scanning the vehicle with?

It looks soo complicated... It's easier to obtain a green card than import a car.

California is a bit unique in this respect as it typically sets the benchmark on emissions and safety requirement's for cars in the US.

The 5HP19 tiptronic in my 2000 Boxster was working fine until I did a fluid change and then it started slipping 400 miles after the change. It works fine manually up to 3rd gear and slips going into 4th. I checked the fluid level at the 30c and it was less than 1/2 quarts low. I topped in off and it still slips. I used ZF Safeguard 5 and a filter kit I purchase from Pelican. I did a double flush on the fluid. Should I try changing back to ATF LT71141? Also, I connected my Durmatic up and I am getting a communications failure to the tip, however I am able to communicate with the engine and see no fault code.

I ran the new fluid that I just drained out thru a coffee filter and noticed a small amount of clutch contamination and something that looked like latex, more like a thin flake of paint than anything else, but very little metal in the fluid. The fluid has no odder like burnt TF but is much blacker than I would think it should be for a double flush service. The original fluid was black with no odder as well but it had been in there for 135,000 miles.

Could this "latex" looking material be Teflon? Is there a Teflon bearing in the 5hp19 and if so it maybe coming apart?

I really don't have a break down of what materials are used in the Tip, but there are a lot of different types of seal materials involved.

Any other suggestions for changing spark plugs easier, as well as the 'best brands' to use, and the Part number ??? Now , guys are telling me Bosch are no good ? What was original equipment in a 2002 996 C2 ? What does Porsche use then , and now ? Is it worth paying more for the latest popular brands ? Any suggestions on the changing of them , or type is very welcome, thanks !

You are totally over analyzing this; Beru or Bosch are the OEM plugs as covered above, Denso Iridium's are an excellent alternative. That comes from literally hundreds of installs, not an "internet opinion". Put a small dab of anti seize on the plug threads, install, and torque to OEM specs. A small dab of dielectric grease inside the plug boot before installing, be sure to correctly tighten the coil packs and connect the wiring harness fully.

There will always be a small amount of clutch debris and or metallic flakes in the oil, particularly after that many miles. The "blackness" description concerns me however as any darkness in the oil color should diminish to clearer as the fluid is changed. It sounds like this gearbox is filthy inside, which is not good as dirt is the enemy of the seals on just about everything in the hydraulic system.

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

This was from your post above "You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1." Should I order the LT71141 and try a 3rd flush? I think 75% of my problem is trying to pin point root cause. Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in the Southeast I can take the transmission or buy a rebuilt if needed? Thanks

It is my understanding that the Esso product has a slightly different coefficient of friction than the ATF-1, which is why it was the original (an only) choice back in 2000-2001. If the trans does not respond to using it, then the problem is deep seated enough that the gear box has to come apart.

Update: took the car to the local dealer and the shop manager took a look at the expansion tank and he claims it is not intermix and most likely it is that the PO used some non Porsche coolant. He said this after looking at the coolant expansion tank and smelling it, he says their is no oil residue at all (I agree, no oil upon visual and tactile inspection). Car will be vacuum flushed and pressure tested on Tuesday. He also claims that it is not a cracked head as the temps do not rise quickly and the car runs fine when warm. He claims that the white smoke is from when they recently overfilled it with oil. I checked the oil level last night, using the dipstick, and it is in fact still overfilled as confirmed by the dash oil level measurement (all bars lit).Of note, the huge puff of white smoke was one time only, then the other two times when smoke came out, it was 1/10 of the first large puff. He claims that this is further proof that it is excess oil from the overfill being burnt. I am keeping fingers crossed that the cooling system holds pressure (I will be there to visually confirm the results...) and that the new clean coolant remains that way for a very long time.I'd like to take a minute to thank you all for your replies and guidance. Will report back next week after coolant flush and pressure test.

I sincerely hope I'm wrong for your sake, but sorry, but this does not look like "the wrong coolant", it looks like an emulsion mix:

Which this definitely is:

We have also seen cracked heads that never over heated.

Don't be too discouraged.

At a good indie shop shop you are looking at maybe half the cost of a used engine to get it fixed.

If you are at all automotive mechanically inclined or know someone who is, don't be afraid of dropping the engine and pulling the heads.

It's not as hard as it may seem.

Take it in steps, like JFP said, first things first is to assess the situation before going crazy.

You might be one of the lucky few that just needs a new oil cooler and a good flush of the coolant system, which will not be that expensive.

Whatever you do though, don't drive it until it is fixed.

While an oil cooler is always a possibility for an intermix issue, one element in this case points in a different direction: Puffs of white smoke from one bank after sitting for a bit. That sounds more like some coolant getting into the combustion chamber on one or more cylinders; I know of no way an oil cooler can fail and do that.

As he will be pulling the plugs in that bank to do a leak down anyway, I'd be looking for one or more plug that looks "steam cleaned", which would be a give away for a coolant drip. If this is found, you could bore scope the cylinder for more confirmation, but one or more clean plugs and a leak down should tell you where you are.

JFP.....

I'm seeking additional input or better ideas in troubleshooting the MIRROR problems................ let's not hijack this into a Durametric discussion......

I know what the Durametric Matrix SAYS it does. I just don't think the console lid was enough of a "violation" to merit a stored code.

BTW: Went to Sears and got a combination 1/4 and 3/8 drive Torx Tamper-Proof Socket Set. So if I run into any Tamper-Proof fasteners I can deal with them too!

The OEM service manual set only contains information on how take the mirrors apart, replace the glass, and to test the correct function of the mirror heaters; it has nothing about the motor circuits other than a wiring diagram in the harness section.

Hopefully, someone else has gone this route before............

And to fix, it entails replacing heads (assuming that in fact it is a cracked head), correct? Will research into leakdown tests (TDC or not, engine cold or not, how much pressure should be use, for how long, readings, acceptable leakdown numbers, etc).

And to think I got the car 7 weeks ago and only put 600 miles in it....

Not necessarily, the head may be repairable, but that can only be determined once the problem is isolated and actually visually inspected. Leak down tests determine the percentage of pressure that is being lost at TDC using compressed air and special tool:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

Usually, and depending upon the general condition of the engine (miles, etc.), something in the 10-15% range is considered normal. Often, when a head is cracked, you seen very high leak %, and often get lots of compressed air into the cooling system causing anything from bubbles in the coolant to a water geyser at the surge tank. Similar results can also be had by pressurizing the cooling system with another specialized tool to around 20 PSIG and then see if it hold pressure for 15-30 min. If the cooling system does not hold pressure, it is going somewhere..........

Sorry to hear that the car is a recent acquisition, but this is why having a proper pre purchase inspection done before money changes hands is so important on these expensive vehicles. A good PPI would have caught this.

Pathway forward: Get a leak down test run on the bank that the smoke comes from. Pressure test the entire cooling system. This is not going to heal, it had to be properly diagnosed and fixed.

Besides the UV dye test (I called the local dealer and they had never heard of such a thing, nor the largest auto parts store), is there anything else I can do to determine if what I am seeing on my car is intermix? I don't have the milk chocolate thick goo as others have posted, but it is also not pink or green as standard Porsche coolants are. Reason why I am asking this is because of some occasional puffs of white smoke on initial startup after the car sits for a while, but only comes from the passenger side muffler. I thought it was AOS, but removing the oil filler cap was as easy to remove as if the engine was not running, all I got was some wind noise (breather/sucking air in) and a very slight (almost minimal) change in RPM (definitely not rough idling). Here is what my expansion tank looks like:

First of all, several companies make the cooling system UV dyes, including Airlift (see below), who makes the Porsche vacuum coolant refilling system:

Secondly, you definitely have the signs of an intermix issue in that tank. From your description of the exhaust smoke, you may have a cracked head.

Well the console lid was the cause. good catch JFP!

The power mirror switch is receiving the 12V power. I put the meter on the switch and it seems to be distributing the voltage out when the joystick is moved around so that means the power isn't making it to the mirrors.

I went into the door to see if there was a plug there and it seems the power mirror wires just go into the door harness which is fed to the Jamb Plug.

I remember on the earlier Boxsters these Jamb Plugs would sometimes get wet with rain, corrode and cause problems. Don't know if that was still a problem in 03 or not...anyone?

But, in order to inspect inside the plug I'm going to need and 90 degree Torx, like the Allen Wrenches but with a Torx end.

Anyone got any better ideas?

Might want to look for a Torx socket set (Sears item) in 1/4 or 3/8 drive that can fit into the space:

Finally got this fixed. Took the lights out and wanted to switch components from left to right to eliminate some possibilities.

Also bought the LED parking light bulbs so wanted to get those installed.

Anyway....inside the right headlight the four wire plug going to the Litronic Control was VERY loose.

So I had a broken front linkage, both Litronic plugs to headlight units unplugged and a loose plug inside one of the units.

Cleared all codes and they stayed clear. Seems as though the headlights level on car startup, is that right? On my Lexus they level when you turn the headlights on, NOT the car...

Glad this is over, now if I can just get my stupid power mirrors fixed,

On cars with factory installed Lits, the auto level check takes place at engine start in relation to the cars attitude or position, on aftermarket installed Lits, it takes place when the lights are turned on regardless of how the car is sitting.

Kind of thought it might be a loose or corroded connector. Glad you got it fixed.

Good info. I was in the console and probably didn't get that closed all the way.

Kind of in a hurry as I had about 30 minutes to do some basic troubleshooting on the mirror problem before I had to get to my office.

Thanks!

Your Durametric should also be able read the last ten stored alarm trips and ID their source as well.

The tool (special tool 9616) is a Porsche "Pin out" or "DME break out" box for testing circuits. Porsche's Black Forrest version is about $2K (if you can find one), OTC makes something similar, but equally rare, called the OTC 3226:

This allows you to plug into the DME's wiring harness and test individual circuits electrical properties to make sure they are functional. All in, sells for about $1k.

It sounds like you have a low level current draw problem on the lights, perhaps a short to ground as described. I tried your technique on a similar car that is otherwise fine in a totally darkened bay, there was no illumination at all, and we could not detect any current draw on the light circuit.

Without the code(s) number(s), anything would be a pure guess. Get it scanned, let us know the code(s).

Thanks for the help. I emailed durametric, and they said:

"The display at the top is not designed to display more specific information about the car. It is somewhat generic when it comes to details such as cabriolet / hard tops."

The Durametric automatically interrogates the vehicle. In my case, the Motronic version is correct under engine module. In either case, it does report an airbag fault.

Sometimes I can get it to clear and it shows it has been cleared, but refreshing the durametric display will always return 8016. So I suspect the fault is somewhat steady/consistent (as opposed to a glitch). There have been no changes to the car before the fault.

Try manually configuring the car using the Durametric instead of letting go on its own and see if the code is still there. When I do a manual configuration for your car on my system, my header (Pro system, version 6.3.1.7) reads "(2005-2012 Porsche 911 997)".

We have noticed that some cars with build dates late in one model year or very early in the next can do some strange things on the Durametric, which may have more to do with Porsche than Durametric. I just had a very late 2001 model year 986 Boxster (one owner car with complete service records, so we are sure it has not been modified) on the system, and if you let it self configure, you get a indication for an ABS system code. But the car is fine, and there are no MIL light illuminated, and a quick scan shows no codes. When we pulled up the car configuration chart, the system had selected ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3, which is correct for a 2001 986. Only problem is that the car appears to have a 5.7 version of the system in it (which would be correct for a 2002 year car), so when 5.3 is selected, Durametric says there is a problem. Change the selection, problem disappears. We don't see this frequently, but it is consistent to specific cars, and as long as you know it is there, it does not constitute any problems with diagnosing or clearing codes.