JFP in PA

Well I got the Durametric today and here's what's going on..................

Had three Litronic Fault Codes. One, the front sensor cleared and stayed cleared.

The lights were acting pretty strange during the "activations". Seemed like the left light was doing what it was being told and the right light was cooperating intermittenly.

After playing around a little the left light is going to all three positions. The right light is staying pointed down but I don't think it's the motor in the headlight because it did move around a few times when I first started troubleshooting.

Anyway the two codes I have left are "1 Engine Path Left" and "2 Engine Path Right". Any advice?

HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

If that is correct, the Durametric just told you that HBA 01 points to a problem with the High Beam Adjustment on the right side of the car. Typical possible fault causes: Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between [the] control module and servomotor for HBA, left; servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty; or the the control module itself is faulty.

You either have an electrical issue (loose connector, frayed wiring, etc.) with one or both lights, one or more weak servo motors that move the lights, or the headlight control module itself is on the way out.

Not bad for $297 diagnostics tool, otherwise you would have needed a PST II or a PIWIS to tell you the same thing, but they cost a lot more ...............................

Why does the Durametric readout show 997 GT3? 997 GT3 was not available until 2007 and your car is a 2006 C2S.

+1, I think he has the software set to the wrong vehicle description, which will yield strange and/or misleading information with the Durametric system.

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

Pentosin is after market, Porsche has theirs compounded to their specific OEM specs. There has been much speculation over exactly what it is, but as it is readily available, works very well, but has a reputation for not being overly compatible with some aftermarket coolants, you would need to be cautious about mixing. As a fresh batch of OEM coolant premixed with distilled water lasts for many years in a clean system, we stay with what we know works,

Do you have the actual code numbers?

Two ways, one using a set of special cable clamp pliers:

You can also unbolt the tank from the bulkhead and pull it into the trunk a bit to gain access.

2000 carrera2 w/56k miles. Is the antifreeze brand in the DIY tutorial recommended for my car? I'm a little low and need to bring level up to the MIN mark. No leaks or overheating. Is there a generic brand that can be bought at car store? Also, since I'm going to add a little bit, mix 50-50? and, use distilled water?

Here is a fairly detailed DIY from the DIY archive at the top of the page, the author chose to use an aftermarket coolant, but it would still be the same for a 50/50 OEM coolant/distilled water mix............

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/301-996-complete-coolant-flush-diy/

Have you checked the TSB archives to see if there is any information about needing to replace both pumps?

I think you are going to find that many shops are reluctant to undertake an already diassembled project; there are always issuse with missing bits, broken parts, etc. that just cannot be figured into an estimate. These are never fun.........

Thanks guys ! Anyone where this TSB or a video is on how to replace/ or update these infamous cables ? Where they are located, if its easy, difficult , etc. I don't think alternator shops do this ? I'm willing to give it a shot though, if I could get some tutelage on the issue ? Thanks Dave

No video that I am aware of, a lot of the TSB's are available at the top of the page to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab. The TSB will tell you what it is all about and the new part numbers for the replacement parts, but it is not a tutorial on how to do it.

Could be a fuel pressure issue (the 2005 has an integrated fuel filter in the pump assembly, so it cannot be changed without doing the pump). Easy to test (there is a fuel pressure test port on one fuel rail that you hook a gauge up to for testing). I would get it flat bedded to somewhere where it can be tested.

To my knowledge, there is nothing in changing the battery that will trap the key in the ignition; most likely, you can get that out by moving the steering wheel back and forth while turning it. But as inserting the key activates certain systems, you should not have left it in while disconnecting the battery.

Work on getting the key out, make sure everything is turned off, and reconnect the battery; you should be fine.

I know this is an incredibly lengthy thread, and perhaps I missed it somewhere on here ? But with all the different types, ways to mount it, and more, one very important question comes to mind. How many cranking amps do I need for my 2002 911/ 996 ? I have had nothing but low or dead battery issues for months now, and the battery ( dura last) checks out fine ? So I'm removing my alternator and having it bench tested. It puts out more voltage on a cold fresh start, than later on when the engine is warm, or started after a long run. My local alternator shop, says that the heat can do that to a dodgy/ questionable alternator ? Anyhow, what are the required cranking amps, for a 996, thanks Dave. And what do you think about that " heat " issue ?

Moe often than not, problems associated with heat are cable related rather than battery or alternator (in fact, the battery actually becomes more powerful with heat). Usually, loose cable ends, and/or high resistance in the cables from internal corrosion, cause poor cranking or low voltage when hot problems. 996's are infamous for this, and I believe there is a TSB about updated cables to address this specific issue. Not an expensive fix, but requires a bit of time due to how the cables are routed.

Heat can also impact the voltage regulator if it is already weak. Fortunately, the regulator is a $40-50 item (get it from VW or online rather than the dealer) and an easy swap with alternator already out. You could have your alternator shop test the entire system and replace what is required as well.

We prefer the highest CCA you can throw at the car, simply because it controls how the car will spin over, particularly in the cold. Our standard recommendation for CCA is the 800 amp Optima's.

Nope 7188 was not it. Another suggestion?

Try 7198 or 7288

Hello Loren!! Seems like you are the man for this!!

CDR-220

Type: 4462

Serial number: X5035924

2000 Porsche boxster

THANK YOU!!

Try 7188

Hi, another 2nd owner with no radio code. Becker with serial # W5005111. I dont have a manual, how do you enter the code #?

Thanks, Terry

Try 9627. You can find the "how to" either in your owner's manual or on Becker's website.

hi how do i get a code for a cdr 22

the serial number is x5009826

any help would be great as the no tunes is killing me

There is a specific forum for radio code requests, please use it................... http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/14539-lost-radio-code-post-your-request-here/page-310?hl=radio#entry232891

I agree with you JFP on replacement of the part. The jacking point I was referring to is not on the oil pump housing but on the engine block itself. My indy mechanic told me Porsche makes a jack that fits the spot when lowering the engine out of the car or maybe it is used at the factory during assembly. It is still intact on bBunny's picture. It was that part breaking off and then wedging itself between my driveway apron and the pump housing that did the damage. I also agree jacking the car up on that oil pump housing would be crazy. Is this repair even possible without engine removal?

Actually, Porsche uses a bridge bar above the engine to slightly lift and support it until a cradle that bolts to the engine is attached from below to lower the engine out of the car;

Use of a jack is an aftermarket adaptation to circumvent spending the money for the specialized tools.

That said, I see no reason you cannot swap out the housing without pulling the engine, but you are going to have to remove some stuff and support the engine from above to get at it:

As mentioned above, this is also an excellent time to carefully check out the oil pump for signs of wear, replace it if necessary, add the chrome molly replacement pump drive from LN (the OEM drive is a known weak point and is an engine killer when it fails, so the $20 or so for the bullet proof replacement is cheap insurance). As the cooling system is open, this is also an excellent time for the LN 160F stat and a new water pump as you are already in there.

I know this thread is kind of old but my 03 996 scraped going out the driveway the other day. The damage is identical. In my case the spot people used for jacking the car on the engine case sheared off and (I think) wedged itself between the oil pump housing and the driveway. The housing is now dented and cracked and leaking coolant. I believe that the engine may have to come out for this fix and I am talking to my insurance as I believe this will be an expensive repair. bBunny did you ever get this fixed and is the JB weld holding? My mechanic mentioned Heli arching (I have no idea how to spell this) the housing. I think a replacement would be much better for such a labor intensive job. Any opinions? Anyone else ever have this happen?

First of all, anyone that uses a hollow alloy water jacket casting as a jacking or lifting point is clearly out of their mind, they crack very easily. Secondly, in order to get a good weld bead (Mig or Tig) on this alloy part, it needs to be immaculately clean and dry, which means taking it out of the car to be prepped. At that point, it would probably be cheaper as well as a better idea to just toss it an install a new housing.

Excellent, thank you!

Anytime...................

Thanks JFP. I hadn't noticed until yesterday, but the coolant in the car I believe is orangish in color. To my knowledge it was never changed (I have all of the receipts from the PO). Was the original stuff orange in 2006? If I'm going from the original to the new pink stuff, do I need to flush or can it be mixed (5% old and 95% new)?

Yes, it should be pink/orange in color; in about 2002-2003, Porsche reformulated their coolant and the color changed from green to the pink/orange version. Both types are fully compatible with each other and can be mixed without issue.

When you change the coolant on a 997, do you do a flush with water or some other solution before putting in the new coolant?

Only if there is a problem with the existing coolant (e.g.: wrong coolant added, coolant contaminated, very dirty, etc.), otherwise dump the system (you will only get around 90-95% of it out without taking most of the car apart, so don't be overly concerned about how much drains), then refill (highly recommend doing so under vacuum) with premixed Porsche coolant and distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio. You will be good to go for a long time.

I never figure out how those aftermarket dongles work in practice since each interior light is 6 ~ 10W each. The frunk one will be ON for sure since the hood is up when replacing the battery. Now if any other interior lights are ON (e.g., if a door is open), those will easily "short out" the 9v battery?

From what I understand, the low voltage of the 9V will barely illuminate the lights. The trick here is to not take all day changing the battery, which should allow the 9V to hold the settings without crapping out in the process. I know the maintainer keep them illuminated, but it has a lot more voltage available.

Now that is a great idea to hook up a 2nd 12V battery (if you have one, of course) to the engine-located jump start points to preserve proper 12V voltage and residual current to the car while the frunk battery is replaced, being mindful of the LIVE property of the frunk disconnected leads, if they ever touch each other. Why didn't I think of that.

I would not be hooking a high amperage battery to do this, beside being dangerous, it is totally unnecessary. There are cheap aftermarket "dongles" that plug into the lighter socket and will maintain the settings using a common 9V household battery (low amperage) that sell for less than $10. Some of the better battery maintainers, notably Ctek, have a setting to do the same thing using the maintainer.

Thank you for the reply. That's what I was thinking but last thing I want is Coolant all over the trunk. 98 Boxster - is the year.

Drain or not to Drain that is the question?

If all you are going to do is change the level sensor, no, you do not need to drain it..............