JFP in PA

What high and low line pressures are you seeing when this happens?

Yet I don't have codes for cam position sensors or crank position sensors so I'm assuming they are good.

Hmmmmmmmmmmm

Here are the values I'm used to seeing:

Being careful not to rotate the motor may not matter, the engine internals move due to the spring pressures on the cylinders with any open valves trying to unload, and there will always be open valves. This is why the correct procedure is to lock the engine at TDC with a pin thru the front crank pulley, then pull the cam plugs and attach the cam locking fixture before releasing the tensioners. I think you are already in trouble. I have had a couple cars flat bedded into the shop after their owners pulled the tensioners without locking the motor down; the result was always the same, the cam timing had moved and needed to be "re-allocated" in Porsche speak........ Three chain motors are more susceptible to this problem than five chains; but the five chains can jump time as well.

That is going to be expensive.................

The data is from the cam and crank position sensors, and comes to the Durametric software from the DME.

Agreed....

OK, another question... the chain tensioners.... a few threads did nothing.... a few more and they came out.... is that bad? Sprockets are now centered, and we certainly aren't going to turn the engine or horse it around until the tensioners are back in....

Wish I had a good service manual......

Not really. I do need to ask if you locked the engine at TDC, and locked down the cams before pulling the tensioners?

I'd still want to know why you are seeing 25 degrees of cam deviation, I have never seen that before.........................

Both the intake and exhaust cams should have a straight notch in the ends, used by the fixture to hold the cams while working on the engine; these notches should line up on both cams if everything is correct.

OK, we are progressing. Managed to cut the outer race about 80%.... Finally figured out the "lay of the land". There was a snap ring, the groove is now obvious. Snap ring is gone.... More work tomorrow. Oh, did open the oil filter.....much "silver dust"......

Take your time; when doing one of these, there is no advantage in trying to rush it.

To be sure we are looking at the same values, this is what I was referring to on an M96 in a Boxster, which I think is a bit different view than you posted (sorry for the link, but RennTech would not permit me to post it for some reason):

screen shot

I think the view I am used to gives a better view of what the cams are doing, and you can clearly see the cam deviation values I was referring to. According to the OEM service manuals, these deviation values should not be outside +/- 6 degrees, unless something has come adrift in the cam drive. An additional thing you should look at it to trigger the VarioCam system using the software, just to be sure one of the solenoids isn't sticking.

I do not understand the value you posted, you should be able to see cam shaft deviation values in degrees, the values should be between +/- 6 degrees (often something like -3.8 or + 1.5); if it is reading "25" degrees of crankshaft, you have jumped time...................

P1340 indicates that the cam allocation value (read timing) exceeded the upper limit on Bank #1. If you have the Durametric software, you can check the cam deviation values, they should be less than +/- 6 and steady at an idle; if they are, the engine is sound and the cams where they belong. If the values exceed +/- 6 degrees, I'd first stop using the car until someone with the knowledge and tooling can look at the cam timing. If the cam deviation values are swinging back and forth at an idle, you have something very loose in the cam drive, possibly including the IMS bearing. If that is the case, consider your self very lucky, most engines do not live long enough in this condition to be observed doing this, but it is still salvageable as long as it is not run until it is fixed...............

True, but an OBD II scanner that captures PID data (real time sensor data) will see a questionable CPS that has not thrown a code......

If memory serves, you Nav system will reset itself after short time. Pulling the fuses and or battery cable makes it act goofy for a bit, but it self corrects.

1. I think I'm pretty good with a Dremel and those amazing carborundum cutting wheels... but how will you get that bearing out with out ruining the bearing seat? Maybe a thin brass or steel liner to protect the seat? What about damaging the end of the IM shaft itself? How will you retrieve the pieces that fall as they are cut free?
   

I learned this trick from Jake Raby, and it works. From time to time, you encounter an OEM IMS bearing that falls apart when you try to extract it, leaving the outer race behind. You need to very carefully cut the outer race with the Dremel, usually in more than one spot, in order to get it out. Strong magnets and a good shop vac collect most, if not all, of the debris during the process, pulling the sump cover and flushing clean oil downwards get the rest. While not pretty, the method works; and I have yet to see an alternative way that is better.

We normally recommend against using any additives, simply because they are not necessary in these cars, and because you never know how they will react with the coolant mix.

The problem with using anything other than distilled water (about a $1 a gallon at any supermarket) is that it adds dissolved minerals to the system, which react with the coolant mix, potentially shortening its life, or causing other issues such as the type of sediment you are encountering.

Intermixes are usually not limited to a small amount located in one area of the system only; usually, when there is an intermix issue, the coolant looks a lot like hot chocolate, which does not appear to be your case (judging by what I can see of the contents of the tank).

But I do need to ask why you are using an aftermarket additive in a coolant mix that is very good on its own, but has a tendency to "not play well with others"; and why you are using "filtered water" when the spec is distilled water.......

Thanks for the reply....

The engine was replaced March 2005.....

No we're not sure whether the engine is worth trying to save..... It's worth a grand to him to find out.

OK, one vote for the dremmel with small wheel......

Problem is that when the IMS begins to "wobble", the car often jumps cam timing, resulting in bent or broke valves, pistons, etc. At that point, spending anything on the IMS retrofit is a waste of money; the engine needs to either be pulled and rebuilt, or replaced as it is "non-serviceable".

Before moving forward, we would pull the plugs and bore scope the engine to be sure you are not throwing good money at what is otherwise a boat anchor. If the engine shows any signs of piston/valve contact, you would be wasting your time and his money.

A couple of serious questions:

• What year was the new engine installed? Reason I ask is any replacement engine installed after 2005 has a unique "final solution" IMS bearing (has a 22MM center nut) that cannot be removed or replaced with the engine assembled (outer race is larger than the opening in the case).
• This looks like it failed while running; if it did, are you sure the engine is worth saving? Most are not......
• If the engine is 2005 or earlier, and the engine is actually salvageable, you may need to very carefully cut the outer race in a couple places with a Dremmel tool using the smallest cut off wheel in order to get it out. This will require using a combination of magnets and a good shop vac to catch as much of the cutting debris as possible so it does not remain in the engine. This may be your only way to get it out, if you (and the engine) are up for it...........

To return to the original focus of this thread, namely the apparent sizing difference in the later third radiator kits hoses; a company named Precision Chassis Works came out with a sharp solution in the form of a machined "spud" which is welded into the OEM aluminum hard line, resulting in a permanent and leak proof solution:

They sell the "spuds" for those with access/ability to weld aluminum, or offer finished lines for a bit more.

Their site.......

Generally, these codes are related as they indicate an overly rich condition (P1123 for bank 1-3, P1125 for bank 4-6). Common issues are too much fuel pressure (possible fuel pressure regulator) or one or more injectors leaking.

I'd also be concerned about your MAF value, 19.25 Kg/Hr seems like low air flow, more used to seeing around 29 Kg/Hr. You may want to carefully look at your intake system for blockages or constrictions, and perhaps give the MAF a cleaning.

I have a MY06 CS and was wondering if anyone knoew how many amps the 12V auxilary sockets provide. Just need the info for the two up front under the passenger dash, and the two in the cargo compartment. I am looking into after market tire pumps, since I have a collapsable spare, but no Porsche "tyre" pump.

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel....................

Because it's a lot easier to sit on my *** in the air conditioning than walk to the car parked outside in 110F heat and pull the panel off and look. I work in a tie and suit and was doing some e-shopping for a tire compressor.

Why give a ****ty NON - answer?

Because it was the correct one.......................... And being one of those that actually gets dirt under his nails fixing these cars for a living (in the heat), to my knowledge, all Cayenne’s have the same fuse rating on the lighter circuits, but I’ll let you enjoy the heat a little bit in order to find out what that rating is………..

I have a MY06 CS and was wondering if anyone knoew how many amps the 12V auxilary sockets provide. Just need the info for the two up front under the passenger dash, and the two in the cargo compartment. I am looking into after market tire pumps, since I have a collapsable spare, but no Porsche "tyre" pump.

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel....................

Hi, I've bought a new lighter assembly for Suncoast. It seems to have two parts: a lighted plastic ring and the actual lighter and metal socket.

Can someone tell me how to get the old assembly out? Do I need to take it out from behind (hope not).

Thanks.

No, the panel the lighter is in pops off so you can access the back components. Use something smooth, like a wooden tongue depressor, to pop the panel so you do not mar it or the dash and you will be fine..............

First, all IMS bearings, regardless of style, have some risk of failing, yours included. That is a documented fact. We have seen a couple, other shops have seen more than we have.

Now the really bad news: All M96/97 produced after 2005 (and even some 05's) carry the last revision IMS bearing which is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the assembled cases, making it impossible to change with totally disassembling the engine. LN Engineering produces an upgraded shaft for these engines, as described on their website, but disassembly is required to install it.

Sorry about that...............

The OEM lube is really just silicone grease; get a $3 tube of dielectric grease at your local parts store and you are in business.....................