JFP in PA

The Porsche tool 9656 is nothing more than a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on one end and a slight bevel cut on the other end. Cheap and easy to make for yourself.

You are short on options here; Porsche does not sell the connectors or sections of the harness, only the whole thing. You can try contacting Porsche wrecking yards to see if they can help, or simply make up your own connectors with stuff from somebody that makes weather proof connectors like Weather Pack

Why does my manual say to use 10w40 and other heavier weights for my 996? Most all info I've seen recently say 0w40 or 5w40 for the most part. New owner of 996. Have a 944 and the manual said 20w50. Why the weight changes from the past?

Because their focus changed from engine protection to Cafe fuel consumption figures..........

Depends upon what you are trying to accomplish; yes there are cheap, more universal alternatives, some starting around $40. But these units cannot run all of the Porsche specific diagnostics, and cannot clear many of the common trouble codes (air bags, PSM, ABS, etc.) that the brand specific Durametric can.

“Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?”

Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue.

The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight oils seem to help. However, if the level of concern is high enough to cause you to alter how you use the car, or loss of sleep, there is also a known and proven fix for the problem…………….

All engines have some RPM zones that create harmonics; on the M96/97 it happens around 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. While there is some limited data that appears to indicate that it is not good for the IMS bearing, the fact that a lot of factory IMS bearing make it beyond 100,000 miles says the day to day risk exposure may not be great.

Many extended warranties turn out to not be worth the paper they are written on, or at best very difficult to enforce, so be very careful before you turn over your cash, you may find out you would have been better off saving it as a contingent for future repairs instead……..

The starter has to come out of the car to do this; either follow the service manual or do a search, removing the starter has been covered several times.

No, the windscreen is removed from the outside.

I'm not surprised as the Brockway R920 is a digital data display system popular with the Honda/Acura crowd................

Rather than going through this twice, why not just replace it? The OEM unit retails for about $20 or so...............

The wear monitor is only for the pads, the rotors do not affect it in any way. The rotors have to be measured manually.

Front rotors have a wear limit measurement, around 22.6 MM if memory serves. Unless they have given you a measurement indicating you are close to that limit, I would question their advice.

This works as well, typically only one application is needed:

Another dead give away would be metal tire valve stems with locking nuts on the outside of the wheels..............

thank you. It is in fact necessary to bleed brakes afterwards? do you have a brand name of S/S to purchase?

thanks again. Steve

Yes, you will need to bleed the brakes; this is good time to do a complete flush, which should be done every two years anyway.

We like, and use Goodridge lines; very well made and DOT compliant. Sold thru many outlets and online, including Tire Rack.

We do this all the time for customers; no, you should not get any codes. Suggest working on one corner at a time, disconnecting the hard lines first (one at a time), and keeping a short length of plugged rubber hose on had to cap the hard line while you disconnect and replace the flexible line. Something a couple inches in length in the 1/4 ID range and suitable bolt to plug the other end will do fine. What the cap does eliminate the need to rush to prevent the rest of the fluid from draining out of the hard lines and allowing air into the ABS control system, which would require either the OEM PIWIS or a Durametric system to cycle the system while flushing the lines with fresh fluid.

Take your time and you will be fine. We have never had anyone comment negatively on the results of going to SS, just make sure they are top quality and DOT approved. You should also have a full set of metric fitting wrenches to prevent rounding off any fittings while you are doing the swap.

Conventional oil is a bad idea on several levels. "Dino" oils have shorter life expectancies than full synthetics, lower heat transfer coefficients, lower detergency, and lower lubricity just to name a few. Rather than go backwards, switch to a full synthetic 10W-40 weight and change it at 5-7K mile intervals; your engine will thank you for it.........

996 01 C4 6sp Cab 77500 miles

Hi guys, it's been a while.

Well after it's winter hibernation I decided to take out my 996

from storage to go for a drive in the better weather.

Upon starting the engine I heard a loud Screeching Sound for like 2 seconds?

I assume it's the starter motor? It was intermitted but now happens every time I start the engine not cool if theres on lookers!

1. Does the starter normally make this type of sound when it's on it's last legs?

2. It's only when starting the car ?

3. Is it a big job to replace a starter motor with a new one?

4.Will Durametric software give any codes for a bad starter motor

(which codes to look for)?

5. Is it bad for the car, as it sounds pretty nasty on start up, even though it for 2 seconds?

Any thoughts much appreciate

Many thanks

James

No, the Durametric system will not give you a “bad starter” code. Often, starters that are noisy have a problem with gunk and/or corrosion on the shaft of the Bendix drive, which causes it to stick and make this sound when the edge of the Bendix gear is grating on the flywheel; not a good thing.

But it is easily fixable. Pull the starter and clean the Bendix drive with WD 40 or PB Blaster, then lubricate the shaft with DuPont Dry Teflon spray lubricant (does not attract water or dirt, last a long time). You can find this at Lowes. Put the start back in, and enjoy the fact you just fixed the car by spending less than $10.

Again, for reasons known only to them, Porsche tends to use weird rated gear oils. The OEM fill containers and tech sheets bear no "GL" ratings at all. When we last polled the larger and more reputable gear oil manufacturer's (not the blenders), most said they have "no direct match" of the OEM gear oils, but felt they had "something suitable that should work"..........right.

Considering how much these gear boxes cost, and that we have swapped out a lot of aftermarket gear oils for the OEM brew and found quieter transmissions that shifted better according to their owners, we will stay with the OEM fill. Yes, it cost a bit more, but it appears to do the job well.

Because of the high internal resistance of a fully discharged battery, you need current more than voltage, in fact, as little as 9V will do it with enough amperage..

Thanks for the reply.

Do you think it is worth borrowing a traditional 12V charger and using the power point in the fuse box to try to pop the hood, or will I have the same issue if I provide 12V there?

In that case, I guess my only option is to dig out the mechanical release in order to pull the battery?

(That is a not-very-easy thing to do because I'm parked in a garage quite close to a car on one side and a wall on the other.)

That would work, as would attaching another battery via that method.

JFP,

The member (Michelin) didn't state what year his car was.. If it is an 06 or newer why would he have to upgrade the IMS? Didn't Porsche already do that (upgrade the IMS) in the 06 through 09 models?

His profile does not list the year of his 911. Unfortunately, if he does have an 06 or later car, he still faces the risk of engine failure due to the IMS (yes, even though the engine would have Porsche's "final solution" for the IMS problem, this last version still do fail), but unfortunately he cannot easily upgrade it because it would be the large diameter IMS which cannot be replaced without total disassembly of the engine. LN Engineering does have an upgrade for this version of the M96/97 IMS, but for obvious reasons there are not that many being upgraded…………..

LN Engineering along with Flat 6 Innovations have developed a process and tool which allows you to replace the larger IMS without having to dismantel the engine. LN Engineering explains the process on their web site and go into great detail on the causes of IMS bearing failure and how to recognize it. Interesting read.

I think you need to re-read the LN website concerning the late 05 through 08 IMS units; the late 05 and on cars (or factory replacement engines) all carry an oversized rear bearing that cannot physically fit through the opening in the assembled engines:

Your problem is the dead battery. With a battery that is really discharged, some of the normal items powered by it when the car is off (alarm system, immobilizer, etc.) tend to react to there suddenly being a source of power; that is the sounds you are hearing. Pull the battery and fully charge it, let it cool and then have it load tested; chances are better than even money it won't pass muster. If that is the case, put in a replacement (or just do that without testing if the original battery is more than a couple years old) and the car should recover fine, although you will still have the usual battery replacement woes (no radio presets, alarm will promptly go off, etc.).

JFP,

The member (Michelin) didn't state what year his car was.. If it is an 06 or newer why would he have to upgrade the IMS? Didn't Porsche already do that (upgrade the IMS) in the 06 through 09 models?

His profile does not list the year of his 911. Unfortunately, if he does have an 06 or later car, he still faces the risk of engine failure due to the IMS (yes, even though the engine would have Porsche’s “final solution” for the IMS problem, this last version still do fail), but unfortunately he cannot easily upgrade it because it would be the large diameter IMS which cannot be replaced without total disassembly of the engine. LN Engineering does have an upgrade for this version of the M96/97 IMS, but for obvious reasons there are not that many being upgraded…………..