JFP in PA

Where abouts in the UK?

Liverpool my friend :thumbup:

We may have been neighbors at one time, I lived near Runcorn (across the A533 bridge below Widnes), as well as down in Dorset and in the Isle of Man. Small world...................

You will never have a better time to access your AoS than when the gearbox is out...........

Where abouts in the UK?

Good time to update the RMS and IMS; due to how difficult they can be to get at, I'd also do the AoS while the car is apart.

+1 on Loren and McMike27's comments; I would only add that you should use an inch pound torque wrench on the sump cover bolts, much more accurate at low torque levels..............

Most likely, you are in for a "bone yard search" if the connector you broke is on the wiring up from the removable brake pigtail; only the very early cars had a disconnect point in the trunk area, yours probably does not. This is not a big project, but finding the connector will definitely be an "Easter Egg Hunt"........

Yes, #4 & 5 are cam holding tools.

I don’t mean to sound patronizing, but if you do not know how to use these tools, perhaps it would be better to either let someone that does handle it, or at least be there to guide you through the process……………..

As you just purchase the car, and you live in CA, it is the seller’s responsibility in to certify the car’s smog. Perhaps time to go back on them?

More and more, the OEM’s are making fewer driveline parts available for their cars. This is happening for multiple reasons: First, fewer dealer tech’s are qualified or equipped to disassemble driveline components. Second, rebuilding components on a flat rate basis sucks from the perspective of the dealer’s cash flow; too many rebuilds become money losers for the dealer. Third, simply too many come backs; both due to the lack of knowledge/equipment, and because something else craps out as soon as the first problem is fixed.

So the standard “modus operandi” had become “pull it and put in a new/rebuilt unit” which address all the above. Doesn’t matter if it is the CVT in a Nissan Sentra or the PDK in a new Turbo……………..

I try cleaning up the bleeder valve and putting on a new cap, if the crud returns, you can easily rebuilt the unit, or just replace it; one word of caution: Be careful with the screws on the bleeder, they snap off if you look at them the wrong way.........

If you are refering the the small shaft under the bail moving up while the car is hot; yes, it is supposed to do that. More likely is that the cap is bad; what are the last two digits on your cap?

We have a couple of the older cars running them, no problems to date.

The unit with the external spring is the newer design that is supposed to keep the tensioner paddle from "flapping" until oil pressure has built up. They seem to work well.

1. Take it to the dealer so the problem is at least on record.
2. Ask them to check the cam deviation values at idle; if they are steady, you are in good shape; if they swing back and forth, you/they need to worry.
3. Try running a heavier weight oil; I prefer 10W-40, many like 5W-40.
4. Pull the oil filter and cut it open; if it is clean, you are in good shape; if it holds metal flakes, specs of flat black plastic, or granular metal the can be picked up by a magnet, you/they need to worry.

I fixed it!!!

First, I checked the fuel pressure as suggested by JFP in PA and had little pressure. So I went about replacing the fuel pump. It was really hard to get out and I had to use a rubber band style oil filter tool to free it from the clip in the tank. When I first hooked it back up, it still would not start. I checked all the connections and I noticed that the male end of the fuel pump power line was bent. I was able to bend it back into shape and when I hooked it back up it fired up right away! Could the reason that the fuel pump failed was the power connection? I am thinking about replacing the tank sender unit just to be safe, but for now it's back up and running.

I don't know if it's just me being really happy that it's running again, but it seems to run better and have more power. It might just be that I have been driving around in the diesel suburban for the past week...

Thanks for all the help!

Reed

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

As the washer protects the alloy crank carrier from wear, I don't think ignoring it is a long term option..............

Can someone confirm part # 99610112952 (part is stamped 952) is a thrust washer and more important, how is easy it to replace them ? I found it in my oil pan !

It is a thrust washer, #24 in the diagram and it will require considerable disassembly to access:

Not necessarily, but to know for sure, you must have the codes. Do you know anyone with a Durametric System? Otherwise you need someone with either a PSTII or PIWIS unit…………..

What you are seeing it the cam's deviation from its ideal position (this is normal, caused by mechanical tolerances, slop in the chains, VarioCam, etc.). Usually at this point, the owner/operator instantly panics and starts call everyone because they think the values they see ( something like your -1 and -0.5 ) means their engine has jumped time, when it is completely normal deviation from ideal values. The cam movement with increasing and decreasing RPM is the action of the engine’s VarioCam, again completely normal. As long as the cam deviation values remain steady at an idle, everything is fine; if they start jumping back and forth, that is another issue entirely.

There was a posting in the archives of a Porsche article that explains in detail both VarioCam and VarioCam Plus systems and how they work. Might make good introductory reading…………

I could be wrong, but I think it is only in the "Pro" version. You also need to keep in mind that Durametric, unlike a lot of other systems, is a "work in progress", but does provide updates.

+1 on Loren’s comment. Clearing a code, particularly an unknown code (not read) is asking for grief. Take 5 min., get it read, and you will know what is going on…….

It was "obvious" to me because I was looking at their "Pro Line" system which bundles a lot but costs more as well; so yes, you can get it at the price you outlined. That said, the last time we evaluated the Pro Line for the shop, the Durametric Pro system still had several advantages as their system could not test activate several systems, including the VarioCam solenoids (a common test), the fuel pumps, the ABS/PSM pump, plus several others. It also seemed to have difficulty with clearing some of Porsche's "restricted" code areas. I don't know if they ever corrected that, but the Durametric Pro system handles all of them, and regularly adds more. I know some find the Durametric confusing, but when you use it everyday, more and more becomes obvious. We would have added a PIWIS unit and gotten just about everything, but Porsche has priced that outside the realm of reality........

The sensors and wiring are the easy bit, cars with the factory leveling system also can run diagnostics on the lights through the DME using PIWIS/PSTII, and there is at least one systems fault indicator (Code) for the leveling system alone, plus others for various functions’ in the lights; indicative of the system being routed and controlled through the car's computer system. How do you plan on making that connection and activating it?

The auto leveling sensors attach to the front and rear suspension and require an entire wiring harness of their own. To my knowledge, retrofitting auto leveling is neither for the faint of heart or wallet, which is why no one attempts it………….