JFP in PA

First, and perhaps most importantly, I have little regard for most Mobil 1 products, and in particular would not use their 0W-40 product based upon several years of collected UoA's. That said, you should be changing the oil and filter at no more than 5-7.5K miles (2-3K if you insist upon using Mobil 1 0W-40). Much like their "recommendation" for using Mobil 1 in the first place, going 15K is also nonsense, particularly if you use 0W-40...............

The “tearing” problems with the OEM cartridge style filters typically happens on the paper end caps of the filter where it slides over the block, causing a by-pass leak. The spin on filter uses metal end caps and a metal cage around the filter media (both inside and out), which totally supports it. The spin on is rated at over 11 gallons per min. flow at temperature and pressures well beyond what the M96 typically sees, so it is very durable, plus the media is has a pore diameter one third smaller than the OEM style filter as well. Better made, better filtration……………

Unfortunately, this is not going to be as simple as you think. Because of the twin cam design and variable valve timing Porsche used, you need to index the cams to each other as well simultaneously the crankshaft position (what the factory calls “allocating” the cams). In order to do this correctly, and not destroy your engine (a real possibility if you get it wrong), you need some special fixtures set and then lock the cams in the correct positions in relation to the crank:

This can be done with the engine in the car and the cam covers on, by pulling the green plugs out of the cam covers the attaching the fixture, or it can be done with the cover off as well:

While the process is not difficult with the correct tools, it is time consuming; so you need to do some research, or obtain access to the 13 volume set of the OEM manuals for the procedures.......

Hello, does anyone know why a drive axle assembly is cheaper than a CV joint kit? I have a 01 boxster S that has a ripped passenger side inner CV boot. While pricing out the parts I notice I can get a drive axle assembly for as little as $60, but a CV joint kit cost $85 from the same web store. Am I correct to think that an axle assembly contains the CV joint with both inner and outer boot already assembled? And in them the assembled CV joint?? Can someone shed some light for me? Thanks.

Because a lot of parts sources are pushing cheap Chinese made knock off axle assemblies that are no where near the quality of the OEM units.......

JFP in PA is correct that is a breather hose.

Loren:

Thanks for the diagram.

Part # 33 shows up as an "elec. connector".

Do you know what goes on the the other side of part 33 (i.e., what does it connect to)?

BTW, even though my Boxster is a '97, it's got a '98 engine.

Regards, Maurice.

On the ones that I have seen, a hard line protrudes through the fire wall from the bleeder, it slips over that. The hose itself is nothing special, just rubber water line with clamps (I always use the screw type replacements) on both ends, so you should be able to source it locally. If the right angle connection is an issue, the OEM hose with the bend molded in is about $20.......

If memory serves, the line from the top of the oil cooler leads to the bleeder valve assembly, not to the coolant tank, so you might want to start looking there. Because that line snakes around, they probably cut it off beneath the intake somewhere rather than try and get the bleeder. This kind of nonsense is more than a little scary.....................

No, it won't work to reset the "service reminder", but it will read and clear most (but not all) codes.............

It could be the syncro, only problem is that pulling the gear box to look at it is no small undertaking. Changing the oil is realtively quick and obviously much cheaper, so I'd go that route before pulling the box out. Add in the fact that I've seen this happen when people have used aftermarket gear oils (RP, RedLine, Mobil 1; none of which matches the OEM specs), I think a change out to the OEM fluid is a good starting point. If it still acts up then, you need to pull the box. I noted that someone else had mentioned linkage as a possibility, I've never seen a linkage issue cause a gear to grind, usually if the linkage is off, you can shift it into one or more gears at all..............

I own multiple 7002's and 3300's, both are excellent products that do a great job, and will not disappoint you. That said, be aware that "Reconditioning" is not a magic bullet that will bring a dead battery that has exceeded its life expectancy back from the grave. It will recover a good battery that is in distress, but not one that is already beyond hope. I would also not recondition a good battery, it is unnecessary and could actually shorten its life. Think of it as an emergency setting, not to be used unnecessarily. Just run the normal cycle, which has an excellent de-sulfating phase built into it, and your battery will live as long as is realistically possible….

Consider doing a gear box oil change out, and use the OEM stuff only, a lot of people have had issues after using non OEM lube that went away when they switched back to the factory fill (which has weird specs no one seems to match)...............

Pedro, I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing; I believe the posters headlight lens section had yellowed, not the amber section of the light…………..

Often caused by a battery/alternator issue; check your battery voltage engine off and running. Should be around 12.5V or so off, at least 14.4V running. If either is low, you have an issue..............

I have a 1999 Boxster 2.5. I bought the car in Florida and noticed when I rec'd it the headlight lens had faded yellow. Uv exposure I assume. Any suggestions how to restore them. They look terrible.

Try buffing the outside with some fine glass polish (Griots and others), if it is external, that will return it to the original clarity............

You are correct Loren, my car is non Cali porsche, there are no thermal reactors.

On the other hand while I am looking for the best available upgrade, I found the Mocal upgarde kit (KIT C: including thermostat, lines and front cooler), it is a full upgarde made for cars which came without front coolers, do you have any feedback or can anyone tell how good it is, or should I look only for original oil lines and cooler.

The Mocal kit is a good one, have used several over the years, well made and thermostat is a must have for colder climates. You will not be disappointed with it.

Before you go to the trouble of replacing the fuel pump - check the fuel pressure and the delivered volume.

Nominal test pressure values:

Stationary engine: 3.8 +- 0.2 bar

Engine idling: 3.3 +- 0.2 bar

fuel delivered volume:

Quantity supplied must be at least 850 cm³/30 sec

i.e. after 30 seconds at least 850 cm³ fuel must be present in the measuring container.

Would this tool work to establish fuel pressure / delivery qty.?

http://www.amazon.co...72052886&sr=1-4

JP

If it comes with the correct adaptors, otherwise no.

The classic method of locating a hard to find air (vacuum) leak is by using a canister of combustible gas (propane or butane will do). In a well ventilated area, attach a short hose to the canister and turn it on low (you just want a small bleed of gas, not a torrent). With the car running, run the hose end around the vacuum connections one by one; when you find a "leaker" the idle will suddenly jump as the result of sucking in more fuel……………..

Sounds pretty f*&^$ng ingenious!

I am getting a P1130, which indicates a possible vacuum leak on bank 2 (Cyl 4-6) only. If I recall correctly, on a 996, that is the passenger side, right?

Would be handy to knwo for sure before I get out my propane torch and start blowing gas around in the engine bay.

JP

On a 996, it would be the passenger's side. Just be careful, if you can, do this test outside and without any smokers about......I don't want to hear about any unexpected “barbecues”................ This does work, just imagine trying to find a small vacuum leak on a 12 cylinder Ferrari with intake runners and hoses all over the place; pinpointed and fixed two small vacuum leaks in about 10 min. using this technique.

The classic method of locating a hard to find air (vacuum) leak is by using a canister of combustible gas (propane or butane will do). In a well ventilated area, attach a short hose to the canister and turn it on low (you just want a small bleed of gas, not a torrent). With the car running, run the hose end around the vacuum connections one by one; when you find a "leaker" the idle will suddenly jump as the result of sucking in more fuel……………..

Ok, so the title asks my question. Royal Purple or Mobil1 oil? I need to do an oil change here pretty soon. I just bought my '00 Boxster 2.7L with 56k miles on it a month ago and the gentleman I bought it from said it had been about 9k since he last changed the oil. My other truck is an '88 that I've had for four years and I just take it in to the nearest, cheapest oil change station for 20 bucks and have them put whatever in it because it's just a daily commuter that's still running after 260k miles. I have many different people tell me different things about these two brands of oil. They tell me they swear by Royal Purple, on the other hand someone told me that RP is over-priced since it's really only beneficial if you're constantly pushing 130 mph. I know Porsche recommends Mobil1. Can anyone give me some input. I would really appreciate it. I just got back from O'Reilly's and he said it would be cheaper for me to buy a case of RP than the two, six pack cases of Mobil1. That price difference isn't a big deal right now, but I want to know what y'all think.

Neither....................

Before you replace the sensor, I would check the wiring to ensure that it is correct. (FWIW, "special tool 9616" is not required for this procedure; it just makes it easier).

1 Check wiring from pressure sensor to DME control module for short to ground.

1. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector of pressure sensor.

3. Connect ohmmeter to special tool 9616, pin 72, and ground. Display: Infinity ohms If 0 - 5 ohms is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

2 Check wiring from pressure sensor to DME control module for short to B+.

1. Connect special tool 9616 to wiring harness (DME control module connector).

2. Remove connector of pressure sensor.

3. Connect voltmeter to special tool 9616, pin 72, and ground. Display: 0 V If battery voltage is displayed, check wiring harness for chafing and pinching damage.

Does anyone have specifics how to test the fuel pressure sensor without

the special Porsche tool.

99 Boxster Tip.

Also is this tool cross used on any VW or Audi?

996-606-205-00-M14

thanks,

Mike

To my knowledge, the "pin out box" is unique to Porsche because it entirely matches their wiring harness and sensor lay out. Basically, the tool is a box that simply plugs into the wiring harness and then allows you to test various readings (resistance, voltage, continuity, etc.) between numbered pins without having to actually "unearth" and disconnect the sensor you want to test. Makes electrical and sensor diagnostics much quicker, but the tool is a SoB to find and costs over $800.........probably assembled by elves in the Black Forest.......

I would also bet that the first replacement was not an OEM, but rather a cheaply made aftermarket unit. Not an uncommon problem......

The earliest cars had a slightly different oil cooler that also required an adaptor plate between the cooler and the block as well as not having the upper line........

So no bleed system in the earliest 986's -- or did they do it a different way.

Just trying to see if I need to T a line someplace to still maintain the function.

BTW, I'll need to double check tonite -- but the new coolers do not look like the will fit in the old blocks. in this case a 99 cooler (with bleed line) in a 97 block.

Mike

I'm not really sure on that one Mike; the 2.5 didn't survive in production very long, but I know they had a different cooler setup (with an adaptor plate between the cooler and the block), but cannot honestly say how it was otherwise "plumbed". I've only ever seen two of them, and that was some time ago. Perhaps if you give Jeff over at Sunset a buzz (or Jake Raby), they might have more complete info (I looked in my set of the OEM service manuals, but nothing is mentioned in the version I have).

The earliest cars had a slightly different oil cooler that also required an adaptor plate between the cooler and the block as well as not having the upper line........

Maurice-

Jeff at Sunset can set you up with everything you need (there are a fair number of bits (brackets, hoses, etc.), but they apparently have done it so often they can pull up all the part from memory). We have done several of these, all using the OEM bits for later service reasons. Only thing different is what bumper cover you chose; some just use an "S" bumper from the boneyard, others use the GT2 or 3 cover, which is a lot more stylish in my opinion, and makes it easier to clean out the side radiators as well.

Looks good; I see someone else is a "Rainforest Green" fan...................

Here's what I'm after. This is a picture of the drivers side. It's just under the cowl, and the battery cover overlaps this, and the little "T" nuts that hold the cover, lock into this and bite down, to hold it down.

It just snaps in. Passenger side is the one missing.

I think your only hope on this one is either a dealer or wrecking yard; I'm not aware of any aftermarket sources.