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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. 32 minutes ago, Jimbowne said:

    Hello all,


    I've got a 2008 997 C4 w/ 56k miles on it. It was cold this morning (30 degrees F) and I noticed clutch slip for the first time since I bought the car in higher gears under full throttle. The clutch pedal feels very mushy and lost alot of its spring on the return. I stopped by my local shop and he confirmed its the clutch.


    The car is my daily driver but I do autocross about once a month and intend to track in the future. I told myself I'd get the light weight flywheel when its time to replace the clutch, and so it seems that time has come. I'm not adverse to the extra noise of the LWFW, but I've heard that you shouldn't do this mod on a C4. I see sharkwerks has a C4 project car with the LWFW so I assume it worked out, but who knows.


    Aside from the flywheel obviously I need a clutch. I've been looking at the Sachs stage 2.5 performance clutch kit, and it seems like a good option. I've also heard that the BBI clutch slave cylinder is an upgrade that would be helpful for clutch performance and feel.



    -Anyone have any experience with a LWFW on a C4?

    -Anyone have any experience with the Sach's stage 2.5 kit on a C4?

    -Any other clutch kit recommendations?

    -Anyone have any experience with replacing the clutch slave cylinder?


    Note: I'm going to get my IMS bearing inspected but if its not leaking I think I'm going to pass, seeing how I have 56k miles on it with no issues. Perhaps its past the infant mortality stage?






    I would stay away from the single mass flywheel for several reasons.  Noise and chatter are problematic on the street, and both Porsche an a renowned Porsche engine builder had recommended against using them unless the engine's rotating mass and the single mass are dynamically balanced together. People tend to forget the dual mass is the ONLY harmonic dampening device in the rotating mass, removing capability that can take you to places you don't want to be.


    The upgraded clutch is also a toss up.  For heavy track use, it may have the advantage, on the street, not so much.  We have had customers run factory and replacement factory units with excellent street drivability and very long lives.


    The BBI slave is another questionable.  Yes it changes the clutch pedal feel, but installations have be problem prone, including premature failures which the manufacturer continues to write off as due to the wrong fluid being used.  But multiple cases have shown that to not be correct.


    As for your IMS bearing, while they are inspecting it, have them remove the rear seal so it can mist lubricate.  We have many running this way with no problems.

  2. 9 hours ago, Brandon Kirk said:

    I just drove my boxster about 400 miles. I pulled into the garage and when I shut it off, coolant poured out behind the right rear tire.

    There were no warning lights and when I was driving, the temp never got over 180.

        I added coolant to the reservoir and idled the car. No more coolant came out.

    There was no coolant under the trunk liner and no visible moisture in the engine compartment.

    Now I am not sure if I should drive it.

    Update: I just got the harbor freight pressure test kit. I got it up to 15psi and it held. No leaks in the trunk or on the ground

    It makes me think it is the water pump or a hose somewhere after the thermostat.


    Any ideas?



    Check your coolant tank cap, if the last digits are anything other than -04, replace it with a new factory unit.

  3. 9 hours ago, ciaka said:

    On my CTT, the HID lights, when turned on, start out by dipping and then gradually raising up to predescribed level.

    Some time ago, I noticed that the passenger side light does not do that, It just turns on and stays put, while the driver side headlight still goes through its startup routine.

    I want to solve this and wanted to see if anyone knows what the problem may be.  Thank you for help.


    Probably either a loose connection or the leveling servo is out.  You should be able to activate the system with the Durametric or PIWIS and see what is going on.

    • Upvote 1

  4. 6 hours ago, 911pilot said:

    just completed a total rebuild of my 1977 911S 2.7 engine.       I am considering using a break in oil for initial start up and initial milage, before changing to a regular engine oil.   Does anyone know if using a break in oil is helpful and correct, to assist ring seating, and if so which brand, type, and weight oil would be correct ?  


    Yes, breakin oil is appropriate.  Check with LN Engineering, they have breakin oils in their Joe Gibbs line.

  5. 13 minutes ago, carja01 said:

    @RFM thanks - I’m reading up on the thrust bearing now, is it located in the rear of the vehicle in proximity to the engine?  The noise is emanating from forward of the clutch pedal (in the area under where the drivers side wiper blade is (roughly) but down low - basically right I’m front of the footwell.  I’m just trying to connect how the thrust bearing would make a noise in that location from so far back.  Thanks for any additional info. 


    Fluids, like solid objects, can transmit noise.  If the throw out bearing is going south, it can transmit that noise to clutch slave, and forward to the clutch reservoir, which is just on the opposite side of the firewall from the clutch pedal.


    Put the car on a lift and listen by the bellhousing, if the bearing is bad, you should hear it.

    • Thanks 1

  6. 2 hours ago, carja01 said:

    @judgejon - thanks, new guy - so I’ll work on my posts, sorry!  The pedal feels secure and the clutch operates completely as it should - no slippage, grinding, leaking, rough shifting, any of that ... I don’t know the status of the clutch cable, I’ll have to add that to my list of things to investigate.  Thanks! 


    There is no clutch cable in this car, it is hydraulically operated.

  7. 15 minutes ago, Carerra said:

    I am not trying to be thick, but do you fish new versions of just the wires involved through the existing bundle, run duplicate wires, or replace the entire the bundle, which would be basically most the wires to the electronics in the front of the car?

     You isolate the damaged wire section, remove it, and correctly replace it with the appropriate sized and color replacement.  To do it correctly, you cut open the bundle, solder in the new wire, apply heat shrink tubing over the solder joint(s) and rewrap the harness.  You can replace the entire harness, but you will need a big check book for that; one or two wires and some time would come in a Hell of a lot cheaper.  Done correctly, you would have to look very closely to even know it had been touched.  Running duplicate wires is quicker, but also a flag saying someone did not want to take the time to do it correctly, and which could turn prospective buyer's off.

  8. 44 minutes ago, Carerra said:

    2010 Carrera S 6M Cab 150k miles

    TLDR: Dealer tells me the code is 2402 and Durametric returns 0024 with a description that matches the dealer.
    I am getting screwey values when I look up actual values.
    I try to clear codes and they don't seem to clear.
    Has anyone else seen this?

    I got CEL after about 1000 miles after replacing the catalytic converters myself. I pulled the codes with my Durametric and got:
    0024 - DMTL Diagnosis module for tank leakage; pump drive rUpper limit exceeded
    0010 - Intake camshaft driver

    I took it to Porsche because I wrongly figured this was related to my cats. They pulled the codes and said the car was throwing 2402 and that the 0010 was in the system but had been there for a long time and was not relevant.

    Now I had cleared that 0010 about a half dozen times so I thought it was fresh. It did not register at the time, but that means my reset did not work.

    They said that it would cost $1,100 to replace the DM-TL and filter. It was very likely the right thing to do because they tried to actuate it and it would not spin.

    As I have dropped about $14k on my Porsche habit in the last 30 months and my wife has had about enough of this, I paid the diagnostic fee and replace the parts myself (saving about $700).

    Now my Durametric is still pulling the same codes plus a new one:
    0014 which it says is No signal/communication

    That code, like the 0024, is not in my copy of the Porsche 997 essential companion.

    So when went to look at live values relevant to the DM-TL the Durametric was putting in some weird results. Percents or bars when the units should have been seconds.

    Background: DM-TL is a complicated pump/sensor that determines that there are no leaks in the gas fume recycling system. It pulls low amps if there is a leak, so a high value means there is a problem with the pump or maybe a short.


    P2402 indicates an internal short in the leak detection pump, which is probably why it won't run.  Usually, it also means that the pump has to be replaced.

  9. 6 minutes ago, mikefocke said:

    Might this person be from England? And, if so, resources that might help him are:


    boxa.net for local advice


    and for used parts


    https://www.9apart.co.uk/  in the UK

    www.douglasvalley.co.uk Lancashire in the UK steve strange on eBay

    porscheheaven@yahoo.com or https://www.facebook.com/Porsche-Heaven-246901405365392/ in Doncaster


    You may be correct Mike, the "horn" by the battery is for the alarm on UK cars.

  10. 28 minutes ago, WTL said:

    So can anyone help - I need a horn replacement and dealer says are 2 of them for my car, a high tone and a low tone.  I only see one, to the L of the battery and I dont know the part no. or if there is another?


    High Note Horn - Porsche (997-635-206-04)

    Low Note Horn - Porsche (997-635-205-04)

  11. 1 hour ago, Serg said:

    I thought I would reply to this topic with (what I think is a plausible but highly suspect) resolution:


    After taking the car to the dealership and explaining what I had done and what I suspected the problem to be, they had the car for 3 days.  On the 3rd day they contacted me to confirm what I originally told them.  That I suspected that the signal between the pill and the ignition was not talking place.  I had provided them a new fob and blade that I had ordered from an outfit in the UK (members here had stated confirmation of the validity of key blades and fobs from them as operational).  I had indicated that I believed that if they placed the "pill" in the new fob with the new blade (which unlocks the car and lights up the dash lights) and re-flashed the pill that that might be what is necessary.  


    And here is where the suspicious side glance comes in:  The service manager stated to me that they were able to get the car started using the pill in the original fob (it was broken - another story) and using pliers to turn the old blade.  BUT that placing the pill in the new fob head with the new blade would not work.  As such I would need a new fob head and blade from the "Fatherland" to the tune of $550.


    Though I repeatedly asked if he could explain why the fob head (old and new) would make any different he couldn't; why placing the pill in the original fob and keeping it in the vicinity of the ignition why using the new fob and blade would not work - he couldn't; so now I will wait 4 days for the new key fob and blade from Germany.


    I don't know, something fishy in Denmark or am I just over reacting?



  12. 2 hours ago, Steven Biggerstaff said:

    Hi, l am having the exact same issue as George Katsiaris with a 996 targa.

    Do you source the fault and if so what was it?



    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    As noted above:


    Fault code 4460 -- Pressure sensor

    Possible cause of fault

    - Short circuit to ground/voltage or open circuit in circuit to control module terminals 25, 26 and 42

    - Plug connection on stop light switch faulty

    - Adjustment of the stop light switch not OK

    - Wiring/ plug connection faulty

    - Pressure sensor faulty (replace hydraulic unit)

  13. 22 minutes ago, roberta berks said:

    Sure thanks.I thought that too.Read Pelican Parts website explaining car needs to be warmed up first for proper readings...But I still am leaning towards a gremlin electrical connector.Ive had plenty of them on this car.Would PSM warning light on before this ultimately shut down the vehicle for dealer mode?


    Not likely.

    • Thanks 1

  14. 2 hours ago, roberta berks said:

    I cant get the engine warm to get a proper test if it will not start? Also it sure sounds like a fast spinning no compression engine but the question is what electrical components/modules not working properly would create this fast spin?


    It doesn't have to be hot to get some idea of the compression, and I know of no electrical/electronic systems that would do this, it sounds mechanical...…………...

  15. 27 minutes ago, roberta berks said:

    Yes I did replace some electronic modules already that were corroded from the humidity here.Which is why Im leaning towards something electrical again that may cause this non communication to start car with the fast crank.I don't see how a strong motor with 45k miles can all of a sudden have a valve issue or something more mechanical.Something electric not connecting all the dots and shutting something down?


    Quick way to find out is to run a compression test...….

  16. 8 minutes ago, smokeman909 said:

    Hi, my ABS light came on today, its cold and raining..


    What is the best way to troubleshoot this ? Can I start by visually inspecting some components before trying to read the fault code ? As I understand I need a special reader to read the fault code ? Is it trough the OBD2 connector ?



    You need to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool.

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