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JFP in PA

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Posts posted by JFP in PA


  1. 13 hours ago, John Komar said:

    Well after testing the motor cranks very slow (sometimes not at all) and the voltage drops across the board to 8 volts from 12.6 at the battery. Had the battery load tested and all was good I am now suspecting that the starter may be drawing to much current. At this point I may be having more than one issue, 1st of which is to check the starter and get the voltage drop figured out then onto fuel pumps or it may just be the large current draw and once addressed everything else may fall into order.  

     

    Check the voltage drop across your primary battery cables, it may just be an internal resistance issue, which is not uncommon.


  2. 28 minutes ago, John Komar said:

    Would you know definitively if the immobilizer shuts down power to 0 - zero volts. 

    I'm going to get different leads on my meter so I can get a better reading on the fuse block, I'll update once I can verify voltage without questionable leads. 

     

    Thanks for the reply 

     

    The immobilizer functions by shutting off power to both the fuel system and the ignition.


  3. 44 minutes ago, John Komar said:

    Hello all, new to Porsche and the forum for that matter (1st post) , experienced in Mercedes though. 

     

    I have just acquired a 2004 Porsche Cayenne S that won't start. I get an intermittent Immobilizer on the dash but if I tap the key and try again it goes away and the car will crank but not start, that's another issue though (I think) - I need a new key anyway. 

     

    I check the fuel rails and have no fuel/no pressure. I pulled fuse #14 to force secondary pump on and it did not change. While the fuse was out I checked to see if the fuel pumps were getting voltage and with the key in the ignition and turned on (but not cranked) I get 8.4 volts. Does anyone know if this is correct as I was expecting 12 volts across the fuse, with the voltage regulation happening on the pump. There is a new battery in the vehicle (tested and it has 774 cranking amps).

     

    If the voltage is incorrect would this NEW battery be to blame OR could it be tied to the immobilizer, which I doubted because I would think it would send NO voltage.  

    Correct voltage  Yes/No? 

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    One of the functions of the immobilizer is to shut off the fuel system, so if you are getting intermittent codes for the unit, I'd start there.  Your voltage reading also is questionable, you should be seeing around 12V.


  4. 4 hours ago, Martin-dt986 said:

    Hi I'm new to the forum so I hope I've put this in the correct category...

     

    I've briefly been looking for a repair manual for my 99 Boxster and it seems that printed manuals are no more.

     

    Can anyone recommend a good online manual as there are a large number to choose from?

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    Porsche discontinued printed service manual more than ten years ago, so copies are hard to come by.

    The only decent and current "online" manual I know of is Porsches PIWIS TSI system, which is pricey.

    A decent print manual is the Bentley Boxster manual.

    Good luck.

    • Like 1

  5. 1 hour ago, dphatch said:

    Can anyone tell me if there are any signs of the failure for the internal AOS for 2007 997 C4S. I have read several posts regarding the primary AOS but none relating to the internal 2 internal versions.

    Have replaced one faulty AOS with a tear in internal membrane but would like to rule out issues that may arise with the internal versions before I replace a second primary AOS.

     

    The AOS in the sump are an entirely different system design than the external one that controls the sump vacuum levels, and does not use a membrane.  I can't honestly say that I have ever heard of one of the internal AOS units failing.  If you have already replaced the external unit, and it has failed, I would be willing to bet it was an aftermarket unit (often sold an OEM style unit) which are well known for incredibly poor build quality and short life spans.  Many shops, mine included, only use the factory piece.


  6. 6 hours ago, Tye Patchana said:

    Hello, I recently held down the button to retract the convertible top without it being completely unlatched. I immediately heard a loud popping sound and the back panel that opens up was appeared to have the rubber seals sticking out. I am now able to open and lower the back panel (still hear loud pops when I do this), but the convertible top now will not do anything while holding down the button. Any ideas what the next step is here? Thank you.

     

    Most likely you broke the cable ends or the drive that lowers the top.  You are going to need to manually get the rear panel open and access what is broken.

     

    Good luck.


  7. 38 minutes ago, gene volpe said:

    Are you saying to check for leaks? I am never low on fluid and if I start to remove rad cap I can tell it is under good pressure at that time. Every time I drive it and wait for it to cool I am at exactly the same level in the bottle. There is no oil in the water and no water in the oil. and the red light does not come on indicating low on coolant.

     

    No, you are looking for an organic reason the engine is overheating, so even though it is not leaking, a pressure test would reveal the presence of mechanical flaws such as cracks, which the early Boxsters were famous for having, and which caused overheating.  I would also be testing the atmosphere above the coolant in the tank for the presence of combustion by products, another indication of possible cracking.

     

    You should also have the car scanned with a proper Porsche scan tool to evaluate the actual coolant temperature vs. what the dash gauge displays.  These temperature displays are well known for being both inaccurate and non linear.


  8. 13 minutes ago, gene volpe said:

    crwarren11 - The car has been garaged because I can't find the issue yet. Really ruins the summer driving a convertible season. Can you tell me the logic why you believe the heater valve may be the problem. I thought the heater valve you described was the valve that closed off the hot water to the heater core when I was on air conditioning. When I turned on the heater the air being put out was hot and when I turned on ac the air was cold.

     

    Does anyone think this could have been caused by something when my clutch was replaced? I understand they had to remove and reinstall my exhaust system to do this job. The overheating problem started about 30 days afterwards. 

     

    As I mentioned I did notice that when I was at higher speed (55-65) the temp gauge went up past 225 or so and when I was driving back to the garage at lower speeds (35-40) the temperature gauge starting coming back down. The weekend before I let the car sit and idle for about 30 minutes before it went into overheat temperature on the gauge. The front fans came on low then high a short time later and the engine heat fan came on.

     

    Have not had the durametric hooked back up to the car to take actual temperature readings as suggested and I am going to try this weekend but I don't know with it going to be 96 degrees and 94 degrees if I will be able to get good readings or not.

     

    I replaced the thermostat already. I guess I can pull the water pump off again and look at it if someone thinks that may be an issue. I did replace it last year and drove it a lot with no issues afterwards. If anyone thinks so I can get a new gasket. I replaced it because it was leaking at the weep port.

     

    I can work on it but I do not know where to look anymore. I hate to have to ask this question because I figure it will be expensive as heck but does anyone know someone in the Pittsburgh area that could troubleshoot this and give me the correct answer for the right price. 

     

    Thanks all.

     

    Pressure test the entire cooling system.


  9. 1 hour ago, Danny Buonsanto said:

    Hello did you ever find out what was throwing all these codes?  My 1999 Boxster came up with the exact same code readings and I wanted to know what you did to fix it and what it was.  Hopefully you are still active on this board and will get this.  Thanks!

     

    If you read the post from 2009 directly above yours, he tells you what he did...………………………………..


  10. 1 hour ago, Josephine said:

    Thanks you so far, but...

    My UK bloke knows what he’s doing, has the unit you mention, it shows “P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1”, he has shown me the clean blank graphs, assures me emissions are normal, changed 1 sensor, and still the lamp comes back.  

     

    The code still leaves even the experts guessing because it says no more.   So I could be forking out £60 an hour on a wild goose chase. He hasn’t charged me yet, as it was under a 3 month dealer warranty

     

    So...How critical is the sensor, seeing as today I was getting 37mpg at 70mph during a 200 mile drive?

     

    Thanks again,

     

    A lean condition does not necessarily mean you have a bad sensor, more likely you have a small vacuum leak or an overly lean cylinder somewhere on that bank, leading to the lean conditions the sensor behind the cat is seeing. A smoke test and reading the spark plug colors should help sort out the problem source.


  11. 2 hours ago, 986yellow00 said:

    I took it to an alignment shop, they lifted the car and the guy told me that the tie rods are not bent and that the alignment would not cause the car to shake. The only thing the saw is that the right front strut its bad, it leaked out the fluid. I also hear the vibration and rattle from the right front.

    Can a bad strut make the car shake?

     

     

    Possible, depending upon how bad the strut is.


  12. 51 minutes ago, 986yellow00 said:

    Hello again

    It seems that I got a new problem after I was able to solve the fuse one.

    When the car was towed I was not there and tow truck driver did not find the tow hook for the car and pulled it up on the flatbed by hooking up to somewhere in the front end of the car. I think he may have pulled it from one of the tie rods because I have a huge vibration now.

    Does anyone know how I can tell if the tie rod is slightly bent? if its the inner or outer. I doesn't seem so to the naked eye and the wheel does not have any play.

     

    Any help would be appreciated it. 

     

    Put the car on an alignment rack, you will know in seconds.


  13. 1 hour ago, 986yellow00 said:

    Thank you for the help

    I was not there when the car got picked up, so I couldn't do anything about the tow hook

     

    I just wanted to know if there is a way to tell if the tie rods are bent, and it it would be the inner or outer tie rod.

     

     

     

     

    Put the car on an alignment rack, it one is bent, the car will be way out of alignment, and which way it is out will tell you were it is.


  14. 2 hours ago, Andreas Efstathiou said:

    My 996 C2 build in 1999 has oil cooler issues for the last 3 years. The engine was completely rebuild by Porsche Germany 3 years ago.

     

    Have replaced the oil cooler in a Porsche approved workshop in Cyprus, two times already and last week it failed again.

     

    As i believe this is a common issue on the M94-95 engines, can you please recommend an upgrade solution to this problem.

     

    You are well aware that for the repairs the engine must be lowered down and is a rather costly exercise overall.


    Look forward to your experience and advice.

     

    I find your comment that oil cooler leaks are common rather odd as we have only seen perhaps six leak over decades of working on hundreds of these cars, and most of those leaks were on Boxsters.

     

    What kind of leakage are you experiencing?  Coolant or oil? Intermix?


  15. 1 minute ago, Riley98697 said:

    Thanks for the reply JFP! I have an update to my case. I just picked the car up from the dealer and drove it home. I proceded to pull out my drivers seat and remove the m535 unit. I opened the case and inspected the whole thing. The board looks totally clean, all connections are shiny and the board shows no discoloration, corrosion or burns and I see absolutely no evidence of water in the car even after a heavy rain this morning and dry dusty floor under the immobilizer. Any other tests I might be able to try to confirm the immobilizer diagnosis? I have no CEL and no codes on the computer only a car that sometimes does not turn over.

     

    The immobilizer can look clean and still be problematic (cold solder joint, etc.), which requires special equipment to evaluate it.  I would go back to the dealer and inquire how they determined the problem, it could still be real.  Another possibility is the ignition switch electrical section which is a well known failure point on these cars.


  16. 4 minutes ago, Danny Buonsanto said:

    Today I got these codes when scanning the check engine warning.  Does anyone has had this happen like this and what you think it could be.  Obviosly the chances of all 6 cylinders misfiring at once is pretty slim to none.  Perhaps its bad coils and plugs that is throwing the ignition sequence off? Any thoughts or insights?

     

    My car is a 1999 Boxster base manual transmission 2.5L Thanks!


    P1313 Misfire, Cylinder 1, Emission Relevant

    P1314 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant

    P1315 Misfire, Cylinder 3, Emission Relevant

    P1316 Misfire, Cylinder 4, Emission Relevant

    P1318 Misfire, Cylinder 6, Emission Relevant

    P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant
     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

     

    Could be a lean misfire, I'd pull a plug or two, looking to see of they are overly white, sign of lean condition.


  17. 2 minutes ago, Riley98697 said:

    This week I have been struggling with a intermittent starting issue on my 1997 boxster 5 speed. I replaced the ignition switch battery and clutch switch in hopes that it was something easy. With no effect on my part I decided to let my local dealer fuss with it. $200 later my problem has been diagnosed as the dreaded immobilizer being wet. I. Got a quote of $3600 parts and labor to remedy the problem and it seems foolish to put over half the cars value into repairs. My quest for posting today is to look for more wallet friendly ways of repairing or replacing the immobilizer. 

    I will buy a waterproof cpu case and look into roof leaks while the unit is out. 

    IMG_20190201_005933_497.jpg

     

    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    Wet immobilizers are a common every day problem with the 986/987/996 cars.  You may be able to save yours by having someone like the ECU Doctors have a look  at it; otherwise you are limited to trying to find the immobilizer, DME, keys, ignition, and door locks that all match from another car.  Either way, it is going to cost...……….


  18. 54 minutes ago, 986yellow00 said:

    They did not use the tow hoof. I don't know where he may have attached the strap to pull the car up.

    U don't see anything bent or damaged and I move the tires with the car lifted and do not notice any play

     

     

    Doesn't matter; if they pulled the car up by one of the tie rods, you probably need a new one as it is probably slightly bent, and a front end alignment.  Tow hooks exists for a reason...……………….

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