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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. 8 minutes ago, Willow5 said:

    @JFP in PA, I understand thanks. Are there any other troubleshooting guides online that I could take a look at ? My troubleshooting logic is this:


    There is clearly a connection between the drivers door control unit and the rear part of the car given that I can open the fuel cap. The control unit clearly has access to the CAN bus in order for this part to function. The tailgate itself and all the motors are fine given that I can open all rear doors fine with the buttons on the rear. The tailgate switch is also working fine.


    My only other thought was that there could be a broken wire somewhere....I read a few times that wires occassionally get torn between the door rubber boot and the body.  I have yet to take the rubber boot off to inspect further. Could this be an issue?


    It is worth a look.

  2. 8 minutes ago, monteolsen1 said:

    That’s what mine is, then. A knock, but not a deep one. It goes away quickly. Thanks. I may check the chain tensioner also, thanks for the link.


    I was told by one person that the knock could be a result of oil not remaining in a lifter where it should and that once the lifter is lubricated, it goes away. Is there a fix for that, possibly?


    Yes, cam followers can bleed down, and can be replaced.  Not a small project, however.

  3. 1 minute ago, Willow5 said:

    @JFP in PA, ok then are there any further troubleshooting techniques I could do in absence of a PIWIS or reader? I read the voltage at the tailgate switch pins in the drivers door card and they check out ok but I have 4 wires and the diagrams I have seen only show 2...slightly confused by this


    Not really, there only so much a digital multimeter can tell you about systems with control modules in them; they cannot see the module programming, state of activity, or read the signals they send out to see if they are correct.  You are limited to voltage, continuity, and amperage; which may not answer the question.  This is the problem when you have digital "thinking" modules in a electrical control circuit; you need to know what the module is, or isn't thinking, which requires a more sophisticated tool.

  4. 2 minutes ago, Willow5 said:

    Hi @JFP in PA, if I were to simply replace the driver door control unit, could this be done without any reprogramming,  for example, is it a simple plug and play swap ? I could source one quite easily from ebay.......are these prone to going bad?


    As a general rule, no, module replacements typically require either programming or activation steps requiring a PIWIS.

  5. On ‎3‎/‎29‎/‎2020 at 11:29 AM, dporto said:

     ^^^ But only if the install was registered by the installer ^^^ 


    Most quality shops did, just as the followed their “preinstallation inspection “ directives, both of which benefited the car’s owner at no cost to the shops.  We regularly had customers ask us about both when shopping for someone to do the retrofit, signs of an informed consumer.   DIY’s on the other hand were another story....... 

    • Like 1

  6. 4 minutes ago, Citgot said:

    Yeah, will do that tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. Midnight here so good night.


    Good night.  Leave you with a thought: Try a lighted mechanics mirror before jumping for a borescope:



    It has two LED's to illuminate and is a great time saver.  I have both this and a borescope in the shop and reach for this way more than the borescope.

  7. 1 minute ago, Citgot said:

    I think I’ll invest in a boroscope to look into the hole in the engine case. Maybe the answer is there.

    It is not completely flush when the bolts are turned all the way in, but pretty close. It looks like the tube wants to go a few mm further in for the AOS to be completely flush with the case.


    While you have the AOS out, physically compare it to the unit you removed to see if there are any obvious differences.

  8. Something is not right here.  I would pull the unit and either use a borescope of a small mirror to see if something is still in the block. 


    Did you say that you had the bolt in and the unit was flush with the engine case when the tube was not all the way in?  If that is correct, there is something wrong with that AOS unit.  Did you compare it to the unit you pulled out?

  9. On ‎3‎/‎26‎/‎2020 at 3:14 PM, Citgot said:

    Ok, i’m getting somewhere. But I can’t work out how I get the AOS seated all the way in. The bolts line up perfectly and are easily turned all the way in. But the peg going into the engine is stopping a few mm too far out. I can still see the red seal. Any tips on how to knock it in without cracking the AOS?88334b10e7cc39dd6a785ac1ebc0ae75.jpg


    Was this photo taken from under the car?  The AOS looks' like it is hitting the case to the left of the tube....

  10. 32 minutes ago, Beetlebum66 said:

    Hi all 

    my reverse lights stay on in neutral and sometimes drive on my tiptronic 996 1999

    I am lead to believe the switch is under the Centre console but having removed it I can’t see it, also someone has cut some wires, see pics
    This is a 1999, could it be under the car?  I did hear prefacelift 996’s could possibly under the car, not sure what the two cut wires are about either! 




    Welcome to RennTech :welcomeani:

    It is under the car on the transmission, replacement procedure: http://www.locodemoto.com/transfer/Replacing-Reverse-Lights-Back-Up-Lights-Switch.pdf

    • Like 1

  11. 47 minutes ago, JTT said:


    JFP, as I remember, you can drop the engine down to crossmember level without disconnecting anything but the airbox?  Anything you can think of that has to be disconnected before dropping it down?


    Not really, other than the battery (always be safety mined).  The trick here is you are only dropping it a couple of inches to give you access to the AOS.  As long as you don't go nuts with the process, it is quick and simple.  We always used a fabricated cradle to hold the engine while doing this, but it can be done with a block of wood and a jack if you are careful.

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