JFP in PA

Possibly.

First of all, if the DME is corrupted, just about anything is possibly connected to that fact, the only way to find out is to correct the DME and see what happens.............

1 hour ago, vza said:

So I sent my ECU (DME) to get it checked and repaired if need be. Turns out the programming was corrupted (so they say) and they have to reprogram it to my specific car. 

Does this sound right??? Thanks V

Yes, that can be correct as one DME can be used in multiple versions of the car, which may have different equipment and control networks that the DME needs to be aware of to function correctly.

You need to get the car scanned with a proper Porsche diagnostic tool, nothing else will work properly, and yes that calibration code can be the issue.

2 hours ago, Wofford Investments said:

I changed the heater valve and the top air hose broke. I hear it connects to the change over valve. Can someone show me where the change over valve is located at? Thank you in advance. 

Welcome to RennTech 

Replacing the change over valve on a 986

12 hours ago, signalpuke said:

I have a problem with my (I believe) B&M shifter, just started recently where it was getting difficult to shift into reverse. Now I can only shift into 2nd and 4th. What do I need to adjust and/or replace? I'm hoping it's just something simple, but I'm guessing the bushings need to be replaced? I just installed it a couple of years ago, and I tightened up the two side nuts (made it worse).

We have installed many B&M shifters over the years, and they have proven to be one of the best when it comes to durability, and in fact we have never had to replace one.  More likely, you have a cable or cable end issue.

The immobilizer shuts off both the fuel and ignition systems to prevent theft of the car.  The CPS does the same thing if it does not sense the engine rotation.

When you jump the fuel pump relay, the immobilizer is out of the picture, so if you do not hear the pump running when it is jumped, you have a fuel pump issue.  Using a multi meter or Power Probe, you can test the fuel up connector at the tank to see if it goes hot when cranking the engine.

"I did see a message at one time while cranking saying the immobilizer was not in a ready state but I haven't been able to reproduce that message again."

That is very concerning, that unit will paralyze the car if it is unhappy, so I would start there, pulling the unit and looking for evidence of corrosion, water damage, and check the glass fuse in the unit itself.

2 hours ago, Darkblue said:

I am replacing the engine wiring harness in my 98 boxster and need to move some of the SAI wires from the old to the new. the old harness is North American spec and the new is row. Does anyone know how to remove and replace the pins from for the x59 type connector. I have opened the connector but I cant see how to unlatch the pins.

Welcome to RennTech 

Been more than a little while since the last time I worked on one of those connectors, but if memory serves, I used a Sir Tools 9025:

Problem with questions like this is that most shops probably have a half dozen different pin removal kits which you cycle thru to you find the one that works......

Then I would also be looking at the Allan head fasteners that hold the assembly together; we have seen MANY of these back out because they were not cleaned and torqued properly with Loctite applied to them before they were reinstalled.  Very common post work failure point. 

Try grabbing the axle near the CV joint and moving it up and down.

I'd start by looking at the axel CV joints on the offending corner, as well as the hub bearing.

Most factory installed Zenon headlights require a separate controller for the HID system.

No apology is necessary; having been down this road before, we just try to provide whatever benefit that experience can provide; people will always tell you that it is really easy to look like you can walk on water when you know where the rocks are; what they don't tell you is how hard it can be to find those rocks 😉 

1 hour ago, Porschenstein said:

 The reason I didn't mention that it was flooded is because responses like "it's a paper weight", and "good luck" aren't helpful and a cop out for people who can't handle a serious challenge. 

 

 

No, it was not a "cop out", and came from someone whose shop has faced multiple submerged cars for customers and insurance adjusters.  The fact that it was under salt water would have changed my entire approach, starting with replacing the harness and possibly several sensors known to be problematic after submersion.  We have seen cars that were in both fresh and salt water, and the latter were always the worst, and often not recoverable in an economically feasible manner, which is why the insurance companies wrote them off.  And of the ones that were salvable, most continued to be plagued with a wide variety of problems related to the immersion for years after they were put back on the road, which is why I said, "Good Luck", and why we regularly caution parties potentially interested in cheap flood cars; they can become black holes for money with little resale value.

It would have been immensely helpful to know the car was under salt water from the very beginning.  Realistically, most of the harness is probably toast, along with a lot of the sensor, and in particular, the immobilizer and DME.  Immobilizer failures are common in these cars when they get just a bit of water under the seats due to blocked rain drain holes; immerse it in salt water and you have a paper weight.  Same goes for the DME.

At this juncture, you are looking at a very time consuming and rather expensive harness replacement, with same applying to the immobilizer and possibly the DME as well, along with just about every electronic control module in the car.

All I can offer at this time is "good luck".

8057: Apparently, whenever a belt is triggered, the AWS (Auto or Advanced Weight Sensor, depending on where you read it - the passenger seat weight sensor ) needs to be calibrated using the PIWIS. This is done automatically when the tool is plugged in and takes a minute.

The use of a single rear "fog/bad weather" light is a European convention; they all have them on the driver's side rear only.

Yes:

To turn the front fog lights on you pull the switch out one notch.

To turn the rear fog light on you pull the switch out two notches.

If the switch doesn't stay pulled out, replace the switch; otherwise, the system is working correctly. 😉

I think it is more the other way around; K40 are well known for their "hidden" systems that range from radar and/or laser detection systems, as well as highly illegal jammers to block both radar and laser signals.  Even their very basic systems start at around $700 for their portable units, so they are rather expensive to say the least.  I have never been a fan of their hidden systems as they tend to mount the signal receivers low to the ground (in the front grill or near the rear license plate for example) which dramatically reduces their effective range.  To offset this limitation, K40 turned up the wick on signal sensitivity, which tends to lead to constant false signals, as you just found out 😉

It is not uncommon for one radar detector to sense another as radar when in close proximity due to reference signal "leakage".  Only higher end detector units like the Valentine 1 Gen 2 seem to be immune to this problem.

Read Loren's post above, it covers all the possible issues.

21 hours ago, Flat6speed said:

Hi JFP. Where is the purge valve located?  Is it under the intake manifold or is it up inside the front fender? It there a easy access point that I might be able to get to? 

It is at the EVAP canister in the wheel well.  You need to pull the wheel well liner to get at it.

Make note of the codes and clear them.  They may not return and have been caused by the vacuum leak; only some driving will tell you.

ASR, which is actually a form of traction control, is part of the ABS system as it uses the brakes to limit wheel spin.