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JFP in PA

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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. According to the wiring diagram in the OBD II manual for your car, the valve should have two wires, #2 that receives a power signal from the DME relay terminal 87; and the #1 wire that runs to the DME terminal #7 (the DME supplies the valve's ground when it needs to run).  I do not have the color codes for those two wires.

     

    Have you checked the valve to see if it functions?  Unplug the harness connector at the valve, there should be a 22-26 ohm between pins 1 and 2 on the valve, and you should see battery voltage on the wiring harness connector pin #1.

  2. 14 hours ago, ziggyrama said:

    Thank you JFP! This is the valve located near the throttle body under the intake? Does this part generally fail and need to be replaced, or do the connections sometimes just need to be fixed? I noticed it is $350 on Pelican so wondering if I should plan on purchasing it. 

    No, it is located at the EVAP system cannister in the wheel well (item #6):

     

    evap_sys.png

    And don't buy from pelican, use board sponsor Sunset Porsche

  3. Time to run a parasitic drain test, which has been written up multiple times, but there are also a ton of online videos :

    .  Basically, after the car has been sitting for about an hour or so, there should be a 45 - 60 milliamp current drain on the battery from necessary things like the clock and the alarm system; any higher than that and you have a parasitic drain on one or more of the electrical circuits.

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  4. 1 hour ago, scanner-1 said:

    Many thanks Loren. That diagram was exactly what I needed. The valve in question is hiding in plain sight on the front of the engine, well obscured by the serpentine belt and a host of pulleys and not easily accessible due to radiator, etc.. For unknown reasons, the wiring was severed about four inches from the valve. The wiring harness gave me just enough play to back it out and do a soldering job in the left front wheel well. Reconnected and the code is now clear.

    My next question is, what is your source for the diagram? Do you have a repair manual recommendation? Locating that particular diagram would have saved me hours of fruitless internet research--Thanks again!

     

    Loren showed you a section of the exploded parts diagram for the vehicle, which you can find on multiple public websites such as board sponsor Sunset Porsche.

  5. 35 minutes ago, 1947verns said:

    Prior to pulling the plugs the engine was started and ran with no issues. The transmission was in neutral and the clutch was depressed when trying to turn the crankshaft pulley.

     

    When looking at the lower pulley on the front of the engine, which direction did you attempt to turn it, clockwise or counterclockwise?

  6. 1 hour ago, 1947verns said:

    I want to do a leakdown test on my 1998 Boxster, I need to rotate the crankshaft pulley to position the cylinders to top dead center, but the crankshaft pulley does not turn when a socket wrench is applied to the crankshaft pulley. What is needed to free up the crankshaft pulley? The engine is in the car. Please advise. Thanks.

     

    Welcome to RennTech:welcomeani:

     

    You have a potentially major issue here; if the crank cannot be turned by hand with a wrench, either the engine is seized, or something is mechanically jamming the rotating assembly (are you sure the trans is out of gear?).  If the trans was in neutral, you need to do further diagnostics into why it won't rotate, which could get into serious disassembly, including dropping the engine out.  In almost any permutation as to why this is happening, you are looking at some serious $, and trying to force it to rotate will only worsen the situation.

     

    Good luck.

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