JFP in PA

More likely a battery issue, get the battery load tested.

Have you tested the circuits as indicated above?

The O2 sensor plug has multiple pins, one is the sensor signal, another is the power supplied for the heater.  I would suggest using a digital multimeter on the unplugged harness end and testing each pin for voltage with the key on, and test the heater for resistance; if there is no voltage, somewhere upstream on the harness there is either a wiring break or bad connector 9internanl corrosion), which you will have to find.

48 minutes ago, Eric Valdez said:

Recently I had an engine light go on so I pulled the codes to find: P0036 Heated O2 Sensor Control Circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 2 and P0141 Heater Circuit, O2 Sensor, Bank 1 Sensor 2.

So obviously I ordered and replaced the O2 sensor with a direct replacement from Bosch and even after clearing the codes they still come back and so does the engine light... Anything else that could be causing this????? Thanks!

You need to test the heater circuit wiring for both sensors, the codes indicate that the sensor isn't necessarily bad, but the sensor heaters are not working.  This is quite often a wiring issue.

Interesting test idea, but if you want to definitively evaluate the engine for cracks anywhere in the cooling system, the correct way to do it is with an cooling system pressure testing rig:

This tool will allow you to properly test ANY cooling system, using the correct adaptor, by pressurizing the system to 18-20 PSIG, and then watching it for 15-20 min to see if it drops.  If it does, first thing you check for is external leaks. which is done by adding a small quantity of cooling system YV dye, running the system, and then inspecting all possible leak points (seals, gaskets, hoses, etc.) in a darkened garage with a UV light source:

If there is even the slightest leak, the UV dye will light up like a Christmas tree; if nothing is found, the leak has to be internal to the engine.  At that point, a leak down test is in order to determine where (which head) is the problem:

Good luck.

1 hour ago, Sigurd said:

Did you ever find a solution. I have the same code on my 2008.

 

Sigurd

Welcome to RennTech 

The code P0674: Fuel rail pressure sensor - inappropriately high - Upper limit value exceeded, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light.

The sensor itself could be bad, or it could be the high-pressure pump pressure regulator actually causing high pressure.  I would suggest having a dealer test your fuel pressure values before going forward as this requires special test equipment due to the very high-pressure values.

The sensor and fuel rail are under the intake manifold, which has to be removed to replace it, but some caution is advised as this system operates at between 580 and 1740 PSIG:

It could be that there are cars out there that already had the newer bracket (and motor) and would thereby not need both if the motor needed to be changed.  A lot of later model years (2010 on) came from the factory with that later design bracket.

I also want to ask you what will seem like a strange question:  Have you had any water intrusion in the cabin, like under the seats?  Reason I ask is that E6 shares duty with the ultra-rare factory cell phone set up and all cars are wired for it, having an unused plug for the system under one seat where the cell transmitter would have lived; if that plug gets wet, E6 blows, and you cannot fill the gas tank.

Just a thought.........

The electric valves are not in that device, that device is the vacuum connection to the fuel tank and one way check valve for the EVAP system carbon canister.  The electric valves are at #1 and #6 in this diagram (#1 is under the intake manifold, 6 is at the EVAP canister).

This is how the tank vent is supposed to work:
The gas nozzle goes in, hits flapper, the flapper opens the magnetic "reed" switch:

that is mounted to the outside of the filler tube, the reed switch tells two electric valves to open; if you push on the flapper with something, you should hear an audible click if it is working. One valve is on the tank (under battery to the right) and the other is in a box in the front right tire well (between tire and bumper). This whole process opens venting to allow the tank to fill.

I would suggest checking the engine coolant temp reading using a scan tool, not the dash.  If the DME is getting erroneous coolant temp data, it will act on it as though it was real.

Welcome to RennTech 

You need to do some electrical diagnostics here; I would start by pulling the vent valve and checking it both electrically and for function.  The valve itself can jam, causing the short.  If the valve checks out, you need to start testing and possibly tracing the wire going to the valve; one or both may be shorted.

Have you tested fuel pressures and delivery rates?

28 minutes ago, Jack5j said:

How have you been JFP?? FANTASTIC WEATHER!

Staying out of trouble as much as possible, and the weather has been great of late.

That Weather Pac connector is part #PNA72104300136, dealers sell them:

You are going to need to source a replacement dust boot and get the necessary pin extractor tools to get the old one apart and install a replacement.  Another possible is source a used one with some wire still attached to it and then cut, solder, and heat shrink tube over it to make it electrically sound and weather tight.

A photo would be useful. 

Check the head light's ground connections.

That should be a pinch release type fitting.

Please post a comprehensive list of the the DTC codes you are seeing; without them, anything would be a guess.

11 hours ago, Shrek said:

2003 Carrera coupe, level sensor hasn't worked since I've had the car.  Time to repair.  Does anyone have any insight on procedure?

Remove the air cleaner, throttle body, and center intake runner. You should be able to see the wiring to the oil level sensor.  Because of its length, some models require lowering the engine slightly to get it out. 

3 hours ago, Brian Nelson said:

I bought platinum Denso TT for my Porsche Cayenne S 2006 V8 4.5 and I would like to know if these plugs are pre set for changing out? 

 

We always re-gap the Denso TT plugs to 1.6 mm using a special tool:

Welcome to RennTech 

The control module may have just "lost" its configuration during the battery swap, and now needs reprogramming rather than replacing.  Find a shop with a PIWIS system and they can do it for you.  And yes, only a PIWIS will do it.

Unless you have a tool that would get in there, you are better off removing the throttle body.

On 10/12/2022 at 6:06 PM, da888 said:

Hello, my battery light came on. I replaced the battery because it was 8 years old but it seemed to charge just fine. Light is still on. I don't see any increase at the terminals with car running. 12.7 v

I read other discussions on here. Would I just go to the alternator regulator next and is that on the back of the alt. ? Or is it in the ECU ?

The other thing here is I put the roof up three days ago without starting the car. Left the ignition on, like a mallet head, put the battery tender on, it's the CTEK 4.3. So did I burn something out ?

The old CTEK I had blew out a week ago. So this is a brand new one I made the mistake with.

2001 Boxster 68K miles.

After I realized the mistake I made, the car ran fine for 20 miles. But after three short drives and starting the engine each time, is when the light came on.

Thanks for any reply's.

Both the battery and the alternator can be tested by most auto parts stores, or any decently equipped shop.  While it could be the battery but is more likely an alternator issue.

Labor rates vary widely with geography, but you are going to be into a couple grand.