JFP in PA

You can get a good idea of the installed heights by measuring from the spring retainer to the cylinder head surface with everything assembled.  It is not as accurate as doing it disassembled, but you are looking for an outlier rather than small incremental differences.  Sometimes you can actually see that one or more looks "different" than the others without even using a measuring tool. Installed height is determined by target valve seat pressures, but tends to be around 1.34 inches.

The only thing I can think of that you could have done during assembly is to miss enough of the actual valve timing that the cams are holding valves slightly open that should be closed at TDC.

I do not see any obvious signs of mechanical contact.

9 minutes ago, hankster66 said:

Isn't it odd though that multiple cylinders are leaking when there were no issues prior to disassembly. Assuming they're not burnt, I can see how something in the assembly process has hung them open, but again odd (although this is new to me) that multiple cylinders would be experiencing the same problem that was not pre-existing.

 

If issue is hung open, is the only remedy taking the heads off?

There is one thing in doing work on these engines that can result in valve problems: Rotating the engine, even by hand, in the opposite direction to how it runs.  Everyone thinks that if they are trying to rotate the engine to say TDC and overshoot, you can simply rotate it in the other direction.  Problem is that you should never rotate the M96/97 engines backwards as this can cause slight piston to valve contact issues, and leaking valves.  The reason I would drop an inspection camera into the bore is to look for marks on the pistons, which indicate contact has occurred. 

There are a limited number of ways a valve can leak; burnt (the mating surface is burned away), valve head is bent and will not correctly seat, and valve stem is bent, which jams the stem in the guide, holding the valve off the seat. That is why I suggested checking the valve installed height on the affected cylinders; if the stem is jammed in the guide, the installed height will be lower than the rest.  This can also be the case if a spring has failed (broken), which will have the same impact, the installed height would be off to the low side.

If it is a spring, it is possible to fix it without removing the heads, if it is any of the other candidates, you have no other choice as it would be impossible to fix with the head in place.  I'm sure this is not what you wanted to hear, but it is the case.

26 minutes ago, hankster66 said:

Yes, checked twice and rotated additional 180 degrees. Same issue on bank 2. The valves are visually closed, but obviously not entirely sealed. I had checked leakage before tear down on all cylinders; no issues. to confirm, doing this with cam cover offer, with cam tools in place.

If it were in my shop, I would borescope the questionable cylinders to look at the valves.  Only real probabilities here are bad valves (burnt or hung open), and if confirmed by inspection or checking valve heights when closed, the heads will probably have to come off.

Make sure whichever cylinder is leaking air out the exhaust is at TDC before plugging in the leak down unit.  

32 minutes ago, Alan David said:

seems like my tank is leaking.could a crack be repaired with  JBWeld or flex tape?

For about 5 min.  Replace it, and do not use aftermarket parts or you will be doing it again in about six months to a year. 😉

Should.

That's what I thought.  More than likely, the central locking/immobilizer is not recognizing the key and thinks you are trying to steal the car.  If that is the case, you are going to need access to the Porsche factory scan tool and help from a dealer to get it running.  And before you ask, no, the immobilizer system cannot be bypassed as the car's main computer expects it to tell the DME that it is OK to start the car.

1 minute ago, Migrandboat said:

Thanks for your reply.  I have checked for leaks but cannot find any.  

The seals inside the system can leak and you will never see anything, but the system will not work properly.

Assuming you used the correct fluid (there is only one), your system may have internal hydraulic fluid leaks, which keeps it from working properly that needs to be repaired.

Welcome to RennTech 

How to refill the top fluid

15 hours ago, vza said:

My 08 boxster displays both TPC and PSM inactive. I believe 2 tire sensors have failed.. since only 2 tires are reading pressure the other 2 just are blank. Just wondering if this would cause the PSM to shut down as well. Thanks v

The easiest way to find out is to scan the car with a Porsche specific scan tool like the factory PIWIS system.  When error displays are present, the DME will have specific codes which will point you both the problem component and the possible fixes.  Without those codes, everything else would just be guesses.

Good luck.

Welcome to RennTech 

Is this vehicle a new acquisition?

You have the tether blocking the drain hole (bad idea), it goes to the bottom of the hinge:

From what I know, you need to check the identification plate on the transmission itself, it should bear a number something like "106  030 031". Replacement ZF valve bodies are sold by that number, and typically fit several numbers within a set range of ID numbers.  You can check this website for what I am describing: Eurospares Boxster Tiptronic parts guide.

Good luck.

1 hour ago, bluefox said:

I am having a no go transmission with no codes.  I am concerned someone before me installed the wrong valve body.  The serial number is 

324 366 0 101112 10 7.  Is this a 2000 base Boxster valve body?  Thanks

Robert

 Please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

What are you using to try and read the Tip codes? The reason I ask is that many scan tools cannot even see the Tip system.

Porsche does not sell internal components for this trans, only the complete trans.

7 hours ago, geoff said:

It's time to replace the starter battery in my 2008 Cayenne S. Porsche calls for p/n 9A7-915-105-C, which I think has been superseded by 999-611-110-20, at least according to the dealer parts guy. It's a 110 amp wet battery. We measured batteries in parts today, and the newer Cayenne AGM battery, 958-611-105-21 looks to be the same size. It's a 105 amp gel battery.  Can I just install the newer model AGM battery in my '08 S and the terminals will be in the right place?  I know specs wise it should work

First of all, AGM batteries are not "gel" batteries; they are absorbed glass mat design, which is totally different than gel technology. 

And yes, you can substitute the AGM battery for the flooded cell unit.

11 minutes ago, vza said:

Said it was like putting your finger on a straw to stop additional brake fluid from coming out. Urban myth?

Don't really know, but knowing how the system is set up, I can't see it doing anything.  Just cap off or plug the flex lines as you disconnect them and you will be fine.

20 minutes ago, vza said:

Ok thanks ...and block the brake pedal?

I have absolutely no idea what that is supposed to do and have never had to do it on any Porsche model. 

A quality digital manometer can be found on Amazon for less than $40, and is an excellent addition to any toolbox.  A short length of hose, a barb fitting (Amazon), and a spare or used oil cap and you are in business.  With all the AOS problems these cars have, long term it will save you $.

As long as you plug or cap each line as soon as disconnected so that air does not leak back into the ABS system, no PIWIS or Durametric system activation is needed.  And when reassembling everything, put a dab of anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts before you torque them.

Both codes point to a vacuum leak at idle:

P2187 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 (RKAT1) - Above Limit
P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2(RKAT1) - Above Limit
Possible fault cause
- Incorrect main charge signal
- Intake air system leaking
- Fuel pressure too low
- Volume supply of fuel pump too low
- Mechanical fault in injection valves
- PCV valve leaks
- Cap of oil filler neck leaking
- Leaks in exhaust system
- EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open)
- EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults

As you replaced the AOS, I would start by checking the oil cap vacuum at idle:

• M96 & M97 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -5.0" (-4.0"  to  -6.0") of H2O (not HG).
• MA1 Nominal crankcase vacuum is -15.0" (-14.0"  to  -16.0") of H2O (not HG).

Yes, but you do not have to have the cam covers on if you use the correct tooling to hold the cams in place with the covers off:

I will assume, for the sake of argument, that the engine is out of the car, which makes all of this one Hell of lot easier.

Yes, you can do both banks at the same time; this is the normal process in a from scratch engine assembly process, only you are doing it in reverse.  Where people tend to go wrong is when they hand rotated the engine with one or more banks completely out of cam allocation, not knowing you can actually damage valves doing that.

As for the IMS, once you have the cam allocations completed on both banks, you need to lock the engine at TDC, and lock the cams, before proceeding.