JFP in PA

radio has power.it lights up indicates different stations,cd ejects and chooses track,just no sound.

Which model radio, and do you have an amp for it in the front trunk?

no,ill have it scanned,but everything else works fine .

The Durametric system can see and actually test most of the systems on the car in real time, so it is a great time saver when diagnosing electrical problems.I would start with a simple multimeter and test the radio power circuits at the back of the radio to make sure you are getting power there.

OK. You need to understand that doing this often results in some significant damage to the entire electrical system beyond the odd blown fuse; blown relays, non functional computers, and dead alternators are not uncommon, as is burnt wiring. You are going to need to start check the entire electrical system. Do you have access to a Durametric software tool?

In the process of changing the battery, did you by chance momentarily reverse the cable connections?

Hi Guys, I have the code, itd P0455. Wouldn't that explain the issue with gad filling?? Where should I start now?

P0455 is a "large vacuum leak in the evaporative emissions system"; often a bad gas cap, but could also be vacuum lines or valve issues in the EVAP canister system.

Hi All,Does anyone know how high the car has to be jacked up to remove the transmission?Thanks-Rob P.

Almost a trick question, how high is often a matter of personal preference more than a requirement. I've seen it done with a car sitting on two 3 ton jack stands that have a max height of only about 18 inches. Basically, it comes down to how much room you need to get comfortable under there, and what kind of transmission jack you are using to hold the gear box. Personally, I'd like it up as high as possible, but again it comes down to what you have available to you and how you feel about being under there (some get claustrophobic with the car low to the ground, or are simply too tight a fit to work comfortably).

Will know tomorrow morning, unfortunately it won't be porsche diagnosis tool. . .

Depending upon what the code(s) is/are, that may be an issue as aftermarket OBD II cannot see some codes or misreport them. Check it with what you have.

A brief update; i have replaced crankcase ventilation tubes as they were cracked and connected the wrong way. It seems that the idle RPM are not fluctuating. I went back to those guys who replaced the starter and thought that that was the case, the CEL was erased by them but after ca. 60 km came back. Wife says that when she switched off the engine it was on and when she came back and start the car after 9 hours it was on. To bad that i am about 100 km from Porsche Dealer to check if the crankcase tubes solved the issue - partially at least. Guys any ideas now?

What codes this time?

Lost Radio Code I Have a 2002 Boxster CDR-220Type 4462Ser Nbr 25015479 Thanks you in advance, Jim

Try 1308

As both sides rarely fail at the same time, it is usually either the harness has come loose from the switch, or the switch itself. As Loren's DIY shows, it is a relatively simple project to replace it.

While I have no experience with "Torque", the data is mystifying, the engine simply should not do this. That said, I note that all your coolant temps seem quite low for a car equipped with the OEM stat, which does not even begin to open until 186F, and usually is not fully open until around 205-210F. What kinds of temps do you get with this software during normal street driving? If they are as low ( or lower), there is something wrong with the thermostat.

The CDR 23 is "coded" so that it matches the MOST fiber optic system in the car; this way the radio cannot be removed and installed into another vehicle. This is done using either the OEM PST II or PIWIS systems:

Checking the coding of the CDR23 and the amplifier is correct for the vehicle:1. Using the PST2, in the menu "Control units" select "PCM2/CDR23",2. Select menu item "CDR23" and then "Coding",3. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle,4. Select menu item "Amplifier" and then "Coding",5. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle.

I seriously doubt any aftermarket scanner is going to do this.

I would not describe that as "normal". Usually, it takes more power to go faster, which means the engine is pumping out more heat. Even with the increased air flow at speed, both the coolant and the oil tend to get hotter with sustained speed on the track. It is also interesting that the temperature drop is rather sudden when it occurs, which is also counter intuitive. I run a 160 degree stat in my cars, and they do not get cooler the faster they go on the track.

So then the question becomes why is it happening? Your thermostat sounds like it is functioning normally. It may be the temp sensor itself, or perhaps a voltage fluctuation causing the gauge to read this way. You might want to try running a data log on the car while at the track to collect the actual system voltage, oil, and coolant temps at the sensors to see if you get different values more inline with expectations.

The different frequency should not have effected the system, it should have simply ignored the signal because it was not what it expected.

Glad you got it sorted.

Depends upon the year, check their features matrix on the web to see if yours is included.

Additional question: Did you make sure the sensors you used matched the frequency of the TPMS system? Porsche had a radio frequency change at one point and if the wrong sensor frequency is used, the module cannot see the sensors at all as it watches only one frequency.....

OK, it sounds like you need to have it scanned and possibly do a "hard" reset suing the appropriate scan tool.

Did you do the selection after driving the vehicle for about 5-10 miles, or while it was still parked?

Did you reset the system after changing the sensors?

What tool are you scanning the vehicle with?

It looks soo complicated... It's easier to obtain a green card than import a car.

California is a bit unique in this respect as it typically sets the benchmark on emissions and safety requirement's for cars in the US.

The 5HP19 tiptronic in my 2000 Boxster was working fine until I did a fluid change and then it started slipping 400 miles after the change. It works fine manually up to 3rd gear and slips going into 4th. I checked the fluid level at the 30c and it was less than 1/2 quarts low. I topped in off and it still slips. I used ZF Safeguard 5 and a filter kit I purchase from Pelican. I did a double flush on the fluid. Should I try changing back to ATF LT71141? Also, I connected my Durmatic up and I am getting a communications failure to the tip, however I am able to communicate with the engine and see no fault code.

I ran the new fluid that I just drained out thru a coffee filter and noticed a small amount of clutch contamination and something that looked like latex, more like a thin flake of paint than anything else, but very little metal in the fluid. The fluid has no odder like burnt TF but is much blacker than I would think it should be for a double flush service. The original fluid was black with no odder as well but it had been in there for 135,000 miles.

Could this "latex" looking material be Teflon? Is there a Teflon bearing in the 5hp19 and if so it maybe coming apart?

I really don't have a break down of what materials are used in the Tip, but there are a lot of different types of seal materials involved.

Any other suggestions for changing spark plugs easier, as well as the 'best brands' to use, and the Part number ??? Now , guys are telling me Bosch are no good ? What was original equipment in a 2002 996 C2 ? What does Porsche use then , and now ? Is it worth paying more for the latest popular brands ? Any suggestions on the changing of them , or type is very welcome, thanks !

You are totally over analyzing this; Beru or Bosch are the OEM plugs as covered above, Denso Iridium's are an excellent alternative. That comes from literally hundreds of installs, not an "internet opinion". Put a small dab of anti seize on the plug threads, install, and torque to OEM specs. A small dab of dielectric grease inside the plug boot before installing, be sure to correctly tighten the coil packs and connect the wiring harness fully.

There will always be a small amount of clutch debris and or metallic flakes in the oil, particularly after that many miles. The "blackness" description concerns me however as any darkness in the oil color should diminish to clearer as the fluid is changed. It sounds like this gearbox is filthy inside, which is not good as dirt is the enemy of the seals on just about everything in the hydraulic system.

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

This was from your post above "You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1." Should I order the LT71141 and try a 3rd flush? I think 75% of my problem is trying to pin point root cause. Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in the Southeast I can take the transmission or buy a rebuilt if needed? Thanks

It is my understanding that the Esso product has a slightly different coefficient of friction than the ATF-1, which is why it was the original (an only) choice back in 2000-2001. If the trans does not respond to using it, then the problem is deep seated enough that the gear box has to come apart.