JFP in PA

Update: took the car to the local dealer and the shop manager took a look at the expansion tank and he claims it is not intermix and most likely it is that the PO used some non Porsche coolant. He said this after looking at the coolant expansion tank and smelling it, he says their is no oil residue at all (I agree, no oil upon visual and tactile inspection). Car will be vacuum flushed and pressure tested on Tuesday. He also claims that it is not a cracked head as the temps do not rise quickly and the car runs fine when warm. He claims that the white smoke is from when they recently overfilled it with oil. I checked the oil level last night, using the dipstick, and it is in fact still overfilled as confirmed by the dash oil level measurement (all bars lit).Of note, the huge puff of white smoke was one time only, then the other two times when smoke came out, it was 1/10 of the first large puff. He claims that this is further proof that it is excess oil from the overfill being burnt. I am keeping fingers crossed that the cooling system holds pressure (I will be there to visually confirm the results...) and that the new clean coolant remains that way for a very long time.I'd like to take a minute to thank you all for your replies and guidance. Will report back next week after coolant flush and pressure test.

I sincerely hope I'm wrong for your sake, but sorry, but this does not look like "the wrong coolant", it looks like an emulsion mix:

Which this definitely is:

We have also seen cracked heads that never over heated.

Don't be too discouraged.

At a good indie shop shop you are looking at maybe half the cost of a used engine to get it fixed.

If you are at all automotive mechanically inclined or know someone who is, don't be afraid of dropping the engine and pulling the heads.

It's not as hard as it may seem.

Take it in steps, like JFP said, first things first is to assess the situation before going crazy.

You might be one of the lucky few that just needs a new oil cooler and a good flush of the coolant system, which will not be that expensive.

Whatever you do though, don't drive it until it is fixed.

While an oil cooler is always a possibility for an intermix issue, one element in this case points in a different direction: Puffs of white smoke from one bank after sitting for a bit. That sounds more like some coolant getting into the combustion chamber on one or more cylinders; I know of no way an oil cooler can fail and do that.

As he will be pulling the plugs in that bank to do a leak down anyway, I'd be looking for one or more plug that looks "steam cleaned", which would be a give away for a coolant drip. If this is found, you could bore scope the cylinder for more confirmation, but one or more clean plugs and a leak down should tell you where you are.

JFP.....

I'm seeking additional input or better ideas in troubleshooting the MIRROR problems................ let's not hijack this into a Durametric discussion......

I know what the Durametric Matrix SAYS it does. I just don't think the console lid was enough of a "violation" to merit a stored code.

BTW: Went to Sears and got a combination 1/4 and 3/8 drive Torx Tamper-Proof Socket Set. So if I run into any Tamper-Proof fasteners I can deal with them too!

The OEM service manual set only contains information on how take the mirrors apart, replace the glass, and to test the correct function of the mirror heaters; it has nothing about the motor circuits other than a wiring diagram in the harness section.

Hopefully, someone else has gone this route before............

And to fix, it entails replacing heads (assuming that in fact it is a cracked head), correct? Will research into leakdown tests (TDC or not, engine cold or not, how much pressure should be use, for how long, readings, acceptable leakdown numbers, etc).

And to think I got the car 7 weeks ago and only put 600 miles in it....

Not necessarily, the head may be repairable, but that can only be determined once the problem is isolated and actually visually inspected. Leak down tests determine the percentage of pressure that is being lost at TDC using compressed air and special tool:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester

Usually, and depending upon the general condition of the engine (miles, etc.), something in the 10-15% range is considered normal. Often, when a head is cracked, you seen very high leak %, and often get lots of compressed air into the cooling system causing anything from bubbles in the coolant to a water geyser at the surge tank. Similar results can also be had by pressurizing the cooling system with another specialized tool to around 20 PSIG and then see if it hold pressure for 15-30 min. If the cooling system does not hold pressure, it is going somewhere..........

Sorry to hear that the car is a recent acquisition, but this is why having a proper pre purchase inspection done before money changes hands is so important on these expensive vehicles. A good PPI would have caught this.

Pathway forward: Get a leak down test run on the bank that the smoke comes from. Pressure test the entire cooling system. This is not going to heal, it had to be properly diagnosed and fixed.

Besides the UV dye test (I called the local dealer and they had never heard of such a thing, nor the largest auto parts store), is there anything else I can do to determine if what I am seeing on my car is intermix? I don't have the milk chocolate thick goo as others have posted, but it is also not pink or green as standard Porsche coolants are. Reason why I am asking this is because of some occasional puffs of white smoke on initial startup after the car sits for a while, but only comes from the passenger side muffler. I thought it was AOS, but removing the oil filler cap was as easy to remove as if the engine was not running, all I got was some wind noise (breather/sucking air in) and a very slight (almost minimal) change in RPM (definitely not rough idling). Here is what my expansion tank looks like:

First of all, several companies make the cooling system UV dyes, including Airlift (see below), who makes the Porsche vacuum coolant refilling system:

Secondly, you definitely have the signs of an intermix issue in that tank. From your description of the exhaust smoke, you may have a cracked head.

Well the console lid was the cause. good catch JFP!

The power mirror switch is receiving the 12V power. I put the meter on the switch and it seems to be distributing the voltage out when the joystick is moved around so that means the power isn't making it to the mirrors.

I went into the door to see if there was a plug there and it seems the power mirror wires just go into the door harness which is fed to the Jamb Plug.

I remember on the earlier Boxsters these Jamb Plugs would sometimes get wet with rain, corrode and cause problems. Don't know if that was still a problem in 03 or not...anyone?

But, in order to inspect inside the plug I'm going to need and 90 degree Torx, like the Allen Wrenches but with a Torx end.

Anyone got any better ideas?

Might want to look for a Torx socket set (Sears item) in 1/4 or 3/8 drive that can fit into the space:

Finally got this fixed. Took the lights out and wanted to switch components from left to right to eliminate some possibilities.

Also bought the LED parking light bulbs so wanted to get those installed.

Anyway....inside the right headlight the four wire plug going to the Litronic Control was VERY loose.

So I had a broken front linkage, both Litronic plugs to headlight units unplugged and a loose plug inside one of the units.

Cleared all codes and they stayed clear. Seems as though the headlights level on car startup, is that right? On my Lexus they level when you turn the headlights on, NOT the car...

Glad this is over, now if I can just get my stupid power mirrors fixed,

On cars with factory installed Lits, the auto level check takes place at engine start in relation to the cars attitude or position, on aftermarket installed Lits, it takes place when the lights are turned on regardless of how the car is sitting.

Kind of thought it might be a loose or corroded connector. Glad you got it fixed.

Good info. I was in the console and probably didn't get that closed all the way.

Kind of in a hurry as I had about 30 minutes to do some basic troubleshooting on the mirror problem before I had to get to my office.

Thanks!

Your Durametric should also be able read the last ten stored alarm trips and ID their source as well.

The tool (special tool 9616) is a Porsche "Pin out" or "DME break out" box for testing circuits. Porsche's Black Forrest version is about $2K (if you can find one), OTC makes something similar, but equally rare, called the OTC 3226:

This allows you to plug into the DME's wiring harness and test individual circuits electrical properties to make sure they are functional. All in, sells for about $1k.

It sounds like you have a low level current draw problem on the lights, perhaps a short to ground as described. I tried your technique on a similar car that is otherwise fine in a totally darkened bay, there was no illumination at all, and we could not detect any current draw on the light circuit.

Without the code(s) number(s), anything would be a pure guess. Get it scanned, let us know the code(s).

Thanks for the help. I emailed durametric, and they said:

"The display at the top is not designed to display more specific information about the car. It is somewhat generic when it comes to details such as cabriolet / hard tops."

The Durametric automatically interrogates the vehicle. In my case, the Motronic version is correct under engine module. In either case, it does report an airbag fault.

Sometimes I can get it to clear and it shows it has been cleared, but refreshing the durametric display will always return 8016. So I suspect the fault is somewhat steady/consistent (as opposed to a glitch). There have been no changes to the car before the fault.

Try manually configuring the car using the Durametric instead of letting go on its own and see if the code is still there. When I do a manual configuration for your car on my system, my header (Pro system, version 6.3.1.7) reads "(2005-2012 Porsche 911 997)".

We have noticed that some cars with build dates late in one model year or very early in the next can do some strange things on the Durametric, which may have more to do with Porsche than Durametric. I just had a very late 2001 model year 986 Boxster (one owner car with complete service records, so we are sure it has not been modified) on the system, and if you let it self configure, you get a indication for an ABS system code. But the car is fine, and there are no MIL light illuminated, and a quick scan shows no codes. When we pulled up the car configuration chart, the system had selected ABS/DSC/PSM 5.3, which is correct for a 2001 986. Only problem is that the car appears to have a 5.7 version of the system in it (which would be correct for a 2002 year car), so when 5.3 is selected, Durametric says there is a problem. Change the selection, problem disappears. We don't see this frequently, but it is consistent to specific cars, and as long as you know it is there, it does not constitute any problems with diagnosing or clearing codes.

HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

How much would you be willing to bet? I can take a screenshot :-)

But here's a question... Given that I had intermittent right beam motor actions (using the Durametric), and that now the motor is stuck in position. Also given that I have no sensor faults so the control unit should be getting the signals it needs to move the beams up and down....... and given that both motors stick in the lowest position under normal operating conditions.....

Doesn't it sound like the control unit to you?

It is a reasonable assumption to start there; if you have a buddy with a similarly equipped car, you might want to "borrow" his control unit for a few min. to test as the replacement unit is well north of $100 and cannot be returned.

And there is still the possibility that Loren's post tests will still be required as it can still be a servo out.

Well I got the Durametric today and here's what's going on..................

Had three Litronic Fault Codes. One, the front sensor cleared and stayed cleared.

The lights were acting pretty strange during the "activations". Seemed like the left light was doing what it was being told and the right light was cooperating intermittenly.

After playing around a little the left light is going to all three positions. The right light is staying pointed down but I don't think it's the motor in the headlight because it did move around a few times when I first started troubleshooting.

Anyway the two codes I have left are "1 Engine Path Left" and "2 Engine Path Right". Any advice?

HBA codes are for the High Beam Adjustment of the Litronics servo motors. I would be willing to bet the codes actually read something like this:

HBA 011 Fault2 Engine path, right

If that is correct, the Durametric just told you that HBA 01 points to a problem with the High Beam Adjustment on the right side of the car. Typical possible fault causes: Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between [the] control module and servomotor for HBA, left; servomotor for HBA, right, is faulty; or the the control module itself is faulty.

You either have an electrical issue (loose connector, frayed wiring, etc.) with one or both lights, one or more weak servo motors that move the lights, or the headlight control module itself is on the way out.

Not bad for $297 diagnostics tool, otherwise you would have needed a PST II or a PIWIS to tell you the same thing, but they cost a lot more ...............................

Why does the Durametric readout show 997 GT3? 997 GT3 was not available until 2007 and your car is a 2006 C2S.

+1, I think he has the software set to the wrong vehicle description, which will yield strange and/or misleading information with the Durametric system.

I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid with Pentosin ATF-1 but it still slips going into 4th gear. The fluid that came out looks thick and has some metallic flakes but very little. I have the fluid to do a 2nd flush but not sure it will do any good? I found a used 2005 tiptronic out of a non-s Boxsters for $2,500 and if it is compatible with my 2000 Boxsters (non-S) I may just change it out.

We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.

Pentosin is after market, Porsche has theirs compounded to their specific OEM specs. There has been much speculation over exactly what it is, but as it is readily available, works very well, but has a reputation for not being overly compatible with some aftermarket coolants, you would need to be cautious about mixing. As a fresh batch of OEM coolant premixed with distilled water lasts for many years in a clean system, we stay with what we know works,

Do you have the actual code numbers?

Two ways, one using a set of special cable clamp pliers:

You can also unbolt the tank from the bulkhead and pull it into the trunk a bit to gain access.

2000 carrera2 w/56k miles. Is the antifreeze brand in the DIY tutorial recommended for my car? I'm a little low and need to bring level up to the MIN mark. No leaks or overheating. Is there a generic brand that can be bought at car store? Also, since I'm going to add a little bit, mix 50-50? and, use distilled water?

Here is a fairly detailed DIY from the DIY archive at the top of the page, the author chose to use an aftermarket coolant, but it would still be the same for a 50/50 OEM coolant/distilled water mix............

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/301-996-complete-coolant-flush-diy/

Have you checked the TSB archives to see if there is any information about needing to replace both pumps?

I think you are going to find that many shops are reluctant to undertake an already diassembled project; there are always issuse with missing bits, broken parts, etc. that just cannot be figured into an estimate. These are never fun.........

Thanks guys ! Anyone where this TSB or a video is on how to replace/ or update these infamous cables ? Where they are located, if its easy, difficult , etc. I don't think alternator shops do this ? I'm willing to give it a shot though, if I could get some tutelage on the issue ? Thanks Dave

No video that I am aware of, a lot of the TSB's are available at the top of the page to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab. The TSB will tell you what it is all about and the new part numbers for the replacement parts, but it is not a tutorial on how to do it.

Could be a fuel pressure issue (the 2005 has an integrated fuel filter in the pump assembly, so it cannot be changed without doing the pump). Easy to test (there is a fuel pressure test port on one fuel rail that you hook a gauge up to for testing). I would get it flat bedded to somewhere where it can be tested.