JFP in PA

What are the spec of the front and rear bearings? C2, MY99, 6 speed manual. I think if you purchase the bearing to a bearing seller, they might be cheaper than purchasing them from Porsche, a dealer and/or auto part seller.

No idea, we just buy them as we need them.

I am considering a PC1220 from Odyssey. I talked to them and that is the one they recommend for my 2002 911 Targa (See http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries.htm for specs) It has 680 CCA and 70 WH for total capacity. The higher CCA is a real benefit if the car is not driven every day. My problem is I only put a couple of thousand miles on the car every year and the batteries keep dying. The Odyssey is designed for vintage use and has almost no discharge if disconnected (which I plan to do with a kill switch).

That is a lot of money for a simple car battery. You would be well away to buy a regular battery and use a quality maintainer.

PowerFrame is a grid alloy technology, not a lead oxide retention system. Johnson controls, by-the-by, also owns Optima.

Retrofitting an Optima is no big deal if you use a commercially available kit, it becomes a 5 min. install.

One thing I would like to know more about with the Duralast is how do they deal with the plate shedding issue that tends to shorten these battery's life spans (Optima uses a patented spiral winding process, hence the "six pack" appearance and vibration resistance claims).

Has anyone tried the Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM direct replacement? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9458_351727_0_The spec looks pretty good: 94R/H7 size (12+ in), 800 CCA, 140 min reserved capacity, 51lb, $180

Comparable to Optima at a lower cost.

Actually, that price is slightly higher than the Optima where I am ($150-160, but battery pricing is geographically sensitive), and the Optima weighs in at 37.9 lbs. Only major advantage the Duralast has is that it is a direct fit.

Yup JFP, I'll be talking to the indie where I've just booked my car for water pump and low temp thermostat replacement.

While they've done LNE bearing replacements I don't think they had done LN's courses out there in Georgia(?).

Wellington (NZ) is such a small place (pop 400,000) and it might not make economic sense to invest so much money with such a small Porsche population here.

If they have done LN retrofits, they are good candidates for the new product. I've been told by the source that the installation tools are the same and the procedure only varies to account for the oil line that comes off the spin on adaptor and into the bell housing area to feed the new insert. So your indie is half way there already. I'm not sure how Jake and Charles will be handling the training, but I'm sure that they can come up with some accommodation like a DVD course or the like for the really long distance installers like yours.

More years ago now than I care to mention, I visited both Wellington and Christchurch on a business trip, you have one magnificent country; I hope to again have the chance to see it.

I'm sure there will shops overseas that are interested in becoming involved, that happened after the first retrofit introduction. You may want to drop Jake a line to see if there has already been any interest in your area.

Many thanks for the response. I was grabbing at straws regarding the a/c drain, so that rules that out. Still mystified as my Boxster has not been out in the rain since finding it wet behind the seat some weeks ago. It was all dried out or so I thought but a couple of days ago I just happen to shove my hand down where the floor pan carpet meets the rear bulkhead and it was damp again. It is drying out by wicking into a towel but could this be residual water from the first ingress? My only other thought, is there a floor pan bung in the rear that is letting water pass as the only wet the car has been through was a 20 foot patch of wet on the road about a week ago, not even a puddle!

I'll check the drains (#1 & 2) all the same.

Have you washed the car recently?

Cutting corners on a $15,000 engine leads to $$$ headaches.

Headaches called "rollers", which sell at near scrap metal prices...........

The AC drains are beneath the car, blow where the heater box sits (item #4):

Your problems sound more like the water drains for the roof tray (#1 & 2).

ok guys sorry for the late reply.. over this weekend I investigated my exhaust problem where the right exhaust tip was producing about 40% compared to the left exhaust. after removing the muffler I noticed that part of my CAT was lodged behind my O2 sensor. I replaced my Cat and now it runs like a champ again. Thanks for all of your quick responses.

I am amazed that your cat broke up yet did not code.

Logray and JFP,

I appreciate the opinions of those who actually wrench than the "must go to dealer" guys. So you agree with plugging the tube or oil allowed in and out causes no balance, drag, capacity, or other problems? I simply refuse to pay $3500 for the "solution" under the premise we are too dumb to install the parts and must have it installed at an "approved" shop. Seriously, a bushing and oil line? Complicated install? No disrespect to JR as I think hes fantastic and a great business man.

Im perfectly fine with doing an IMSB with every clutch.

Jake and Charles are going on the basis of how many DIY installs come to grief when compared to those done by someone with both knowledge and experience. Very early on, judging by the number of phone calls we got from some pretty distressed car owners, all of Charles and Jake's efforts to make the install as idiot resistant as possible was not working, as it became obvious that God had sided with the idiots. We got calls from people that had no idea they needed to lock the cams down with the engine at TDC before pulling the IMS flange off; calls from people that tired to bump the engine into TDC using the starter after removing tensioners and the IMS flange; and I don't know how many calls from people that had just shut the car off and pulled it apart without locking down anything, only to now find that the IMS shaft was off to one side and they could not install the new bearing. My personal favorite was the guy who had actually suffered an IMS failure, had an engine full of metal, and still did the refit even after multiple experienced installers told him not to do it. Once back together, the 996 did not make it another 20 miles. And in every case, the car owner somehow found a rationale to blame Charles or Jake for their problems. I can't imagine what Jake and Charles call logs must look like........

Charles and Jake are small business owners, they do not have a huge staff to take product support calls all day long. Yet they tried to help all comers when the installs went bad; which quickly became an all consuming effort that left little or no time for anything else. Based upon this history, I can full appreciate why they have moved away from the retail sales market for these products; relatively few "professional" installers had problems, and those that did were willing to spend what was necessary and learn what their mistakes were, and how not to have the same issue again rather than arguing that the product/installation instructions/tools/procedures were at fault. And based upon the number of successful refits done since the products were introduced, there is nothing wrong with the system Charles and Jake created. But basic human nature found ways to make it not work.

That price does seem steep, and yeah it really sucks the DIY community is left out... but on the flip side I would like to believe that cars with the IMS solution should hold their value better, and possibly even demand more at resale time.

Say you take a gamble on a less-widely adapted bearing and/or make a mistake with installation, you are risking much more than $3500.

Then again, if you are competent and the install is flawless, then you are certainly better off retrofitting with a stronger bearing than the original (single row cars), regardless of provider.

My biggest concern with the Pelican solution is the shorter life-cycle and changing more often, the risk of a mishap goes up the more you perform the procedure, not to mention possible insertion/extraction wear/tear on the tube and coolant guide/oil pump console.

Although I've read and re-read the Casper thread many many times over, it's still a slight head scratcher why they don't include a strong center stud, despite them saying there's no need for one. LNE has a larger install base, and it seems to me if center LNE studs were failing we would have seen a post about it by now... but LNE does mention failure of the OE center stud... doesn't something seem out of place there?

Maybe there is a little bit of "if it costs more it must be better" anxiety to overcome. I just have a hard time doing that with a $15,000 engine, and shelled out the extra few hundred dollars for the solution that is widely adopted and has very few instances of failure (not attributable to the installer).

Single row bearing car are the largest "at risk for a catastrophic IMS failure" segment of all the cars produced. The Pelican system is basically a new OEM bearing on a stronger center bolt (the OEM bolt can and does fail). Worse yet, the Pelican system replaces an OEM dual row bearing with a single row and a spacer in engines that were OEM dual rows. Yikes! Why you would want to take out a bearing because you had no way to predict when it might fail, and then replace it with another one with the exact same potential for failure is beyond me, much less to replace a better bearing with it. The cost argument simply eludes me; your $15-20K engine, not to mention the resale value of the entire car, is riding on that one part. Why wouldn't you spend just a bit more to get something that is proven to work better (LN ceramic refit), rather than a product little to no proven history and a very limited installed base? Just to save a couple bucks? Someone is always going to copy a successful product with something "almost as good, but cheaper", but that "almost" can quickly come back to haunt you........

Thanks JFP. I had ordered the RMS and Porsche tool anyway and will replace it, along with clutch kit. Im trying to narrow down which CH bearing to use in place of the included Pelican one from their kit.

I know I will be using a CH 6204 series bearing but you think having an open design (no seals on either side) would allow the best flow of oil. I want to prevent any trapped on the tube side and would think that no seals would be better than sealed on one side. I have also seen where some are now plugging the tube. What do you or others think?

You can get enough oil in the bearing with it not having a seal on the flywheel side. I'm not really sure that oil getting in the tube is that much of an issue other than lowering the total amount of available oil.

They are all major manufacturers of bearings, and supplies to most OEM's. I wouldn't be concerned about using any of them.

I wasn't motivated to get up early today so I pulled the trans this afternoon. This is how bad it looked which kind of surprised me because I had no oil on shop floor where car stays parked. Anyway, any thoughts? Most of the other parts will be here next week. A really odd thing is the two clutch cylinder bolts were finger tight. The car had the trans mount replaced at dealers expense after my PPI revealed a bad trans mount. The bad part is the work was done by a top Indy with a great rep. Guess even the experts forget to tighten bolts sometimes.

Anyway, looking at pic; Some RMS and some IMS or mostly IMS leaking?

That look mostly like the IMS is leaking, but I would still replace the RMS with the PTFE version anyway.

Be sure that you use both the Loctite Flange sealant and Green wicking Loctite on the stud when doing the IMS (you will find the details in the LN IMS instruction which can be found online).

I was under the impression that the LNE bearing is not an off the shelf item but was specially packaged based on specifications provided by Charles and a retired bearing Engineer( consulting with Charles) .

I believe that is correct, the COTS bearings are the ceramic hybrids introduced by other parties in an attempt to come up with something cheaper; but without the installed base and performance experience that LN has gained over the past few years, how good the COTS units are is an unknown..........

There is really no advantage, but potential disadvantages to going to an oiled style replacement filter. Use the OEM or buy a Wix/NAPA Gold replacement.

Hi!

I have been reading lots of old threads but still haven't really found someone in a similar situation as me, hence this additional thread on the subject.

My car is a 986 S 2002 with 125k miles and I think my MAF is bad because of CEL P1128/P1130 (also P0410/P1411) and a bit of a rough idle. Tried cleaning it two times with no difference.Pulled the MAF and to my surprise I found a 996.606.124.00, which I thought only existed on the 2000 models. Since it is a 2002 model I expected to find a 996.606.125.00. I don't know the history of the car so maybe an earlier owner installed the wrong model.

- My question is should I fit a 996.606.124.00 or a 996.606.125.01?And in case the answer is: Depends on your DME flash version, can I determine this using my Durametric?

Additional info:Chassis # 9802U661342Engine #M96/216720XXXX

Any advice is appreciated

Best

Andy

The 124.00 MAF is an early (2000 model year) e-gas unit; if you went from the 124.00 to the 125.00 (now discontinued) or 125.01 your DME will need to be reflashed (PIWIS or PST II only) to accept it.

That said, the P0410 and P1411 are secondary air injection system failure codes, not the MAF, but are often mistaken as MAF related codes.

The gearbox is fine at every 30-40K, but use the OEM gear oil when you change it, and be sure to always remove the fill plug on the trans before you take out the drain plug. For the way you use the car, stay with the OEM style pads.

The oil (and filter) should be changed at least annually, or every 5K miles.

Just removing the rear seal on an OEM bearing will get oil into it without issue, which is a common "stop-gap" procedure for the 2005 and later cars where the bearing cannot be swapped out without taking the engine apart. There is more than enough oil movement to accomplish this.

As far as design differences, LN has the installed base (literally numbering in the thousands installed and running), so they definitely have the proven experience edge.

While your post did not mention the car's year, from your member data, it appears you have a 2003 car, which would be a single row style bearing. Long before I would go experimenting with COTS ceramic hybrids, I would seriously consider Jake Raby's recently revealed pressure lubricated solution, which uses freshly filtered oil under pressure to lubricate a replacement with no moving parts, making it a permanent replacement. While not as cheap a fix as a mix of a COTS bearing and Pelican bits, it is a once and done proposition, so it has economic advantages of its own.

Probably caused by the display's tap on the CAN bus, which I believe is how the door control unit's communicate. Remove the tap and see if control returns.

Very few systems can reset the airbag MIL in these cars, the PIWIS and Durametric are the most common useful tools. Airbag codes are sometimes "ghost codes", meaning they are triggered by a false reading rather than a true event, so clearing the code and waiting to see if it comes back is an advisable step.

Very nice!

Cosmoline really looks like cr&&&p especially on such a beautiful motor. my mild steel brackets on the trani and on top of the motor by the AOS are all rusty including the bolts. I cleaned them up and reprinted them + new bolts.Anyway, tomorrow is trani re-installation day. In preparation I have drained the oil and refilled with the expensive Porsche stuff. Manual calls for 2.9 liters and I have filled 3.0 liters. I stuck a crooked wire into the filler hole on the side and its nowhere near the top. Trani is level. Garage is approximately 60 degrees F. Am I OK.?

Recheck it once it is back in the car and the car is sitting level.