JFP in PA

Hi,

I am suspecting the cracked oil filler tube. AOS was also replaced recently.

I searched the internet a little bit. Many people had broken oil filler tube and

was having the rough idle problem especially for older Boxster.

They also said that if you had a bad AOS earlier, the tube is very likely broken.

Anybody knows how how to hard it is to replace the cracked oil filler tube?

Thanks.

Steve

It is a bit "fiddly' and time consuming, but not overly hard; DIY discussion here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/30329-oil-fill-tube-q/?&p=160714&hl=%22tube%22&fromsearch=1#entry160714

The 365 Day PIWIS subscription is a bargain, only $6500.00 USD. ;)

That is targeted more at a shop; you can actually buy single pages if that is all you need. In the end, it is legitimate, it is current, and it "comes from the source". Plus, when you think about it, back in the day when the manuals were still in print, you paid $2300 for the 986 set, plus another $1800 for the OBD II diagnostics manual; and that only covered one model car. The online subscription gets you access to anything they have for any model. Perhaps not what a DIY wrench would see as a deal, but it really is not that bad.

You could always lease the PIWIS unit itself for $17+K a year, and get it that way.............. :help:

Cool, thanks as usual JFP! I actually sold my Bentley manual to a friend because it technically doesn't cover the Turbo model, but you have a good point there -- a lot of things are similar on the body so maybe I should pick one up again.

I will post some pictures this weekend -- after I get the gas flap fixed. Car is beautiful, and it drives even better than I imagined. Can't really compare it to the 4S I had before. The interior looks pretty much the same but as soon as you start the engine it all stops there. Sounds different, feels different, clutch is totally different. The power at 4K+ RPMs is just mind blowing. The torque is unbelievable. Driving it is a complete rush.

Glad to hear the purchase met your expectations, the turbo cars are a blast to drive.

The gas flap spring is like a cartridge inside the flap door hinge, so you need to pop off the door by releasing the tabs and slide it out. Borrow the book back for about 5 min. and you will see how it comes apart.

Hello,

2002 996 TT. I was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to install the spring + plastic bracket for the gas thank door. I just ordered the parts today so it might be self explanatory but I didn't see here the spring would go for example. Any digrams or pictures would be greatly apprecaited.

Thanks in advance.

You need to insert two thin bladed screw drivers, one on each end of the filler flap hinge to unlock the two small tabs that hold it in place. If you have access to the Bentley 996 book, there are photos and diagrams starting on page 50-2.

When are you going to post some photos of that bad boy?

Vacuum leaks are often a pain to locate on these cars as there are so many places, some nowhere near the engine, where they can occur. Often, a test with a smoke machine is the only real option.

Not sure I have ever seen that published anywhere as there are no oversized bearings for these engines. Usually, after such a failure, the crank and carrier are replaced. Might want to drop Jake Raby an email on this one.

I've used the NGKs Densos, Bosch, and Berus and I they all seem to work the same. The harder metals last longer, but that's about it.

You are correct, we like the Iridium's both because they work well, but mostly because they keep working well, which can be a major plus on something like a Turbo, where a plug change is a multi hour affair at best.

Beru is the OEM brand and work very well. We have also used Denso Iridium's with excellent results as well.

As for the coil packs, unless they are acting up, or show obvious signs of future problems (cracking, etc.), I'd leave them alone. Then are not cheap, and are easy enough to replace when actually needed. Same applies to the MAF, which is probably second only to O2 sensors for being replaced for no reason.

Contrary to a lot of published information, we like to use a very small dab of anti seize on the plug threads, as well as a small amount of dielectric grease on the coil plug boots. Porsche has had problems with some types of anti seize compounds causing an increase in electrical resistance between the plug and cylinder head, but as most anti seize compounds available now are based upon a fine metal paste and excellent electrical conductors, that is no longer an issue.

Wanted to update this. Was as simple as a hose clamp. Apparently lots of vehicles up here have cold weather problems with viscosity of power steering fluid. Was instantly reccommended to use ps fluid that was more friendly in cold weather...explained that I couldn't due to porsche weirdness. Motherinlaws cadillac suv popped its ps line couple of days later. I have had to arm strong plenty of vehicles and am old enough to have had several vehicles with no power steering. Never were this difficult to steer without PS. That rack and pinion is very tough to move even with vehicle moving. Yes I know it is strongly frowned upon to drive without fluid in pump. But with 4 year old and -15 degrees and very rural...sometimes you need to just get home. That is what I need in a truck...one that gets you home.

Welcome to RennTech! :welcome:

Most people do not realize that power steering fluid ages and gets pretty dirty over time. While a full flush every couple years is always a good maintenance practice, disconnecting the lines to do a full flush is both a bit messy and beyond what many want to get involved in. A company called Cardone, who makes replacement power steering hardware, came out with an inline filter that goes on the low pressure return line and can be popped apart by removing a simple clip to drain the system quickly and cleanly, This unit also has a magnet and stainless steel cleanable filter element to trap the crap that collects in the system.:

Another, and more simpler option is to suck as much old fluid out of the system reservoir once a year using a syringe device and refill it with fresh fluid. While not perfect, it is both quick and effective in keeping the system in good shape in the cold. Be sure to use only the spec fluid as contrary to popular misconception, they are not all the same.

Welcome to RennTech! :welcome:

Like most OEM’s, Porsche no longer prints any service manuals, but only makes them available online via subscription. You need to also be aware that Porsche has a reputation for severely protecting what they see as their intellectual property, so be very careful buying pirated versions. Porsche does have an online subscription service that gives you access to their official service system database that is called Porsche PIWIS TSI (http://www.renntech.org/forums/links/goto/18-porsche-piwis-tsi/). They have multiple subscription types (by the page, time based, etc.) which would give you full access to anything you may need now. or in the future. One of its biggest advantages is that they keep it updated, so you get the latest data. Bentley also has a service manual for the VW Touareg, which is a very similar vehicle, but not an exact match.

Hi, Just bought a 00 Boxster and am missing the Radio Code.Type-CDR-220Serial: X5038285Not sure on what the model is any help is much appreciated.

Try 5352

^{Someone once wrote that the definition of character is doing the right thing, even when no one is looking................ :oops:}

Piece of tape over the light? Remove the bulb? ;)

I think that needs a couple pretty pictures...................... :eek:

Well if there is truly no fault then the light wouldn't return with the battery reset, no?

No, not necessarily. In this case, there is something unusual as neither a PIWIS or Durametric system see any faults or codes, so there are none to "reset". Unhooking the battery does remove any chance of collecting any data stored in the system; and, in any case, you have never been able to reset an airbag MIL by disconnecting the battery on one of these cars.

You try removing the battery ground for 10 min?

Not sure what that will accomplish as disconnecting the battery has never been able to clear air bag MIL's in these cars..............

I have to agree with Loren on this one, it does not make sense; you should not be able to trip the air bag MIL without some event that a good scanner would see. But I would also do an electrical systems test (battery load test, alternator output, etc.) as strange voltage excursions can trigger MIL's that are not real.

The issues may be related, start by looking at the brake fluid and see if it is low; if it is, fill to the correct level. If the fluid is not low, you may have a problem related to getting wet when you washed it, such as a loose or cracked harness connector. Another option would be to scan the car with either a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software to see what codes are involved.

Ahsai is correct, there already is a magnet mounted in the case, but adding another one would not hurt anything.

Done. Filler plug removed. When I first used the "freeze and release" spray, waited about 1 hr. Did not work. Put some more, about 2 days ago and today did tap the plug not too hard and it came out GREAT.Thanks. Noticed this magnetic plug p/p 99906300802. Is it recommended to use it as the drain plug? Don't think is necessary to use one as a filler plug as well.[/size]

Sometimes, persistence pays dividends. Glad you got it out.Can you provide where you saw the plug in question? I am having difficulty locating it.

You can try tapping on the plug, just don't get over ambitious in the process. The plug should have been torqued to 22 ft. lb., so it may just be some corrosion. You might also want to try one of those new "freeze and release" penetration oil systems on the market.

A word to the wise on transmission service and drain plugs: Never remove the drain plug until you get the fill plug out; if you take out the drain plug first, and then cannot get the fill plug out, you are officially in very deep yogurt because you cannot refill the gearbox. Get the fill plug out first.

The first thing to do is have the system pressure tested (including the coolant cap); takes about 30 min., but would confirm the presence of a leak or not. If it fails the pressure test, you need to go to the next step.

As the leak can be very small, yet still smell quite strongly, I would suggest getting a bottle of UV coolant dye and adding it to the vehicle. Run the vehicle normally for a couple days, then using a "black light" UV source, start inspecting the entire system looking for the tell-tale evidence of a leak (there may be more than one), which will be very pronounced visually due to the dye.

All Porsche factory service manuals are copyrighted, and Porsche has a history of zealously defending their intellectual property.

Another option is to try looking for some used units, another poster here with both three way cats dead got a pair for less than $500 that got him back on the road, and even got some scrap value money for his dead ones to help offset the purchase.

Hi Loren, actually I did read through the Battery thread before I made the first post. (It is quite simple to do, search on CCA in the thread.) Perhaps you should take the time to read through the thread, too. Nowhere in it does anyone state the CCA of the factory battery. (There are references to replacement battery CCA ratings for other manufacturers than Porsche.) Since my question wasn't answered there, and since the thread had not been posted to in years, I started a new thread after reaching the reasonable conclusion that the thread is dormant. Nothing in the forum rules prohibits that. I only posted it a second time, in the Battery thread, when you asked me to. Then when I complied, you deleted it! Ha ha, Catch 22 if there ever was one. Well done. You got me. I bet you block when faster guys come up to lap you too. But the question is this, what is the CCA of a factory Porsche battery for a 2002 911 Targa? Do you know the answer to that? If you don't (and it is not 70-80 AH as you suggested), then how about letting the community here actually read my posts so if some other folks know they can help me out. Does that sound like a plan?

What we have here is problem of mixed terms, a battery has both a CCA (cold cranking amperage) rating, and a AH or amp hour rating; they are different values determined in separate tests on the same battery:CCA or cold cranking amps is how they measure the number of amps that a battery should be able to deliver at zero degrees F for thirty seconds and not dropping lower than 7.2 volts. A battery needs to get a high CCA rating, no matter the car battery size. The higher the CCA rating, the easier it will be to start up a vehicle in very cold weather.An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. The standard rating is an Amp rating taken for 20 Hours. What this means, say for a 100 AH rated battery is this: Draw from the battery for 20 hours and it will provide a total of 100 amp-hours. That translates to about 5 amps an hour. 5 x 20 = 100. However, it's very important to know that the total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As your load increases, your realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharged that same 100 AH battery by a 100 amp load, it will not give you one hour of runtime. On the contrary, the perceived capacity of the battery will be that of 64 Amp Hours.I hope that clears up your conundrum.

I would think that the problem for LNE would be how to weed out the competent from the "not so much" group when it comes to the DIY segment. At the outset of the retrofits, even some otherwise competent shop and even dealer personnel got into problems with these installs because they tried to short cut the proceedures. But the shops quickly learned and did not repeat the problems they casued; while nearly every DIY is a first time installer.

Jake was offering a "for a fee" telephone support option, but I do not know what became of that. And at the end of the day, both LNE and Flat6 are truely small businesses without the staff to support something like that long term. At the end of the day, these guys are not like Bank of America with a room full of trained telephone operators waiting to take your call.