JFP in PA

I was planning on make a device with which the car could be jacked by the jacking points but evenly, the rear or the front. Was thinking in using a steel square tube of 2 x 2 and of a heavy gauge, like a gauge 11. It will be long enough to reach the jacking points from one side to the other (rear or front) like the diagram posted. The jack would be placed in the center of the square tube, lift the car and then place the jack towers at the jacking points.That way the rear or front is raised evenly. Would it work, any suggestions?

The jack points are designed to accept a pad with a key way that locks into the car to keep the car from moving, your bar would need to lock into these key ways and still not be so low to the floor that a jack could get under it:

Unless you want to go through the entire cam timing exercise, which requires some additional tooling, not really. Are you absolutely sure you have rotated the eninge (clockwise only) to TDC before locking it down at the crank?

All should be at the same value.

Before you started this adventure, did you check the cam deviation values with either a PIWIS or Durametric software to see where the cams are to begin with?

The tools should not need any "trimming" to work correctly.

Low air pressure (less than 20 PSIG) would not cause an issue, but when you tell people that, immediately the "If one is good, and two is better; then forty seven has to be just right" principal takes over and the next thing you know someone is cranking up their compressor to put 100 PSIG in the system with disastrous results. These systems where designed to operate at around 18-19 PSIG, no more.

Realistically, you are never going to get more than about 85-90% of the coolant out of the car without taking the entire car apart; some of it just gets hung up in odd places and cannot be pushed or sucked out. So to prevent problems, just let gravity do the job for you; it is about as good as it gets.

Premixed (with distilled water) coolant will live a long time if stored in a closed and clean container. If you think about it, stored on the shelf, it is actually better off than the stuff in your engine (no heat cycles, no metal ions, no contamination, etc.).

Get the car scanned, either Durametric or PIWIS, that will tell you if there are any related codes, and the system can also check and reset any service reminders as well.

Thanks I will ask those questions and clean the sensor. Hopefully I am not looking at TWC failure, it would seem to me that it would be way to early for that kind of repair on a car with less than 40K on it.

Not really, these cars have cats that are susceptible to vibration and often die early on cars with a lot of track time on them or hard use. A comparison scan of the before an after sensors will show the cat's condition.

That is the correct sensor; Bank 1 is cylinders 1 to 3. Which is on the left side 996.

The code is the sensor after the cat (muffler side).

As the sensor is new, it should not be showing signs of aging, which is what the code is for. I would ask the following: Who's sensor is it (aftermarket or OEM)? Does it have a plug on it like the OEM sensor would, or is it "hardwired"? I would also suggest unplugging the sensor and cleaning the plug ends (if they are still there) with contact cleaner, reconnecting the sensor and clearing the code to see if comes back.

In addition, I would get the car scanned (Durametric software is fine)to get a record of how the O2 sensors before and after the cat are responding, you may have an early indication of TWC cat failure. A good TWC would scan entirely different than a one that is failing:

Which sensor was replaced as the code is specific to a sensor location.

No luck on cleaning them. I removed them and gave them a thorough cleaning and after re-installing they are still spraying the underside of the hood (frunk) - although with a bit more volume now.So I'm onto the replacement route. I called my local porsche dealer and they said they had the passenger side in stock but would have to order the driver side. Are they different? In looking for part numbers I can only find what Loren provided above (Thanks Loren). They actually look slightly different (just the actual hole where the fluid comes out). They also quoted me $70 each. So am I looking for two different parts or two of the same?Thanks.

Couple currently on flea bay for $25 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-PORSCHE-911-997-CARRERA-TURBO-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-SPRAY-NOZZLE-/370612860856)

Logray is correct, but while you do not need to drain the entire system, if the mix in the car is more than a couple years old, I would dump it all and refresh the system. While called "lifetime" coolant, the OEM coolant (which is very good) does eventually break down and need replacing.

The Uview "basic" will do OK, but with the top of the line unit being so much better made (all brass instead of molded plastics), coming with adaptors to fit just about anything with a cooling system, and only costing a few more bucks, I'd go for the better unit. We have had a couple of the brass units for years, great product.

Cdr220 Y5039608 Thank you for helping!

Try 5768

This is fully covered, with photos, in the Bentley manual if you have access to one........

Support the engine, detach rear stabilizer bar, remove the retaining straps on the cats, remove the engine carrier bolts, swing the engine carrier rearward, have at the pump. Sometimes helps if the engine is lowered slightly.

Nano gains= somewhat less than a RCH.................

I think you will find that most, if not all dealers, simply do not want the liability exposure for turning it off.

Not sure I like this idea; instead of automatically disconnecting the battery and losing everything from radio presets to the DME's learned information, why not just use a maintainer (or even a solar maintainer, that does not require line power)?

I don't know the current standards of your MOT, but over here if the battery is disconnected just before inspection, the car won't pass because the DME will report several key emissions parameters as "not ready" because the car has to go through multiple driving cycles before the DME will reset to "ready".

If the light came on while the seat belt was in use, try spraying some contact cleaner into the buckle (car not running, towel under the buckle to catch overspray). Some times these issues are just crud built up on the contacts in the buckles and the spray is a quick and lasting fix.

I would say it looks "OK"; we prefer oils with A3, B3, B4 ACEA ratings, and published ZDDP levels above 1000PPM, and preferably above 1200PPM. While this oil holds two of the three ACEA ratings, which is good, I found published data on what levels of ZDDP are involved in their "race" and "street" oils:

"The Nanodrive race oils contain approximately 1100ppm of ZDDP. This compares to as little as 600ppm for street oils." (http://performanceracingoils.com/faqs-ezp-2.html)

So, if your product selection is their "race" oil, the ZDDP level is very good.

I have found this, but I dont know what to look for...http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=929&sector=MotorsportRegardsStefan

Those are just basic physical properties; usually they list things like ZDDP levels is a separate data sheet, but as I mentioned, they are getting very elusive on ZDDP. I like that it has ACEA A3/B4.

Most "low rolling resistance" tires also make the car handle like it was on wooden wheels, which is why you don't see this "feature" on performance tires............

Most OEM's have been pretty tricky in setting up various "Federal Nanny" mandated safety features in these cars such as the TPMS and seat belt chimes. Quite often, some of these simply cannot be altered without an aftermarket re-flash of the computer, or (if possible) disabling the feature also disables some other major system, which is unacceptable to the car's owner. This does two things, the dealer network has "plausible deniability" when asked to disable mandated features, and it drives the aftermarket nuts when they try to do what the dealers will not.............

That is an oil that I can honestly say I know nothing about. Do you have any data on base stock group or ZDDP levels?

I have read that the older double row bearing was stronger then the 2002 - 2004 single row bearing. And that the "updated" larger (non removable unless split case) is as strong as the older dual row. That said some larger bearings have failed as JFP has stated. Change your oil at 7k miles or sooner to help keep your bearing healthy. Use a class 5 oil if you can get it there. Motul 8100xcess 5-40 is one. Porsche approved oilshttp://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Porsche-Approved_Oils.html Not all synthetic oils are equal. Some give better protection and last longer than others, depending on whether they're formulated with Ester or PolyAlphaOlefin (PAO) stock. Synthetic oils made from the ester class are much more expensive, but are more durable and hold up under hotter temperatures.Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package. The relative ability of oils to lubricate is determined by the components of the base stock. There are two principal classes of base stocks used in real synthetic oils: synthesized hydrocarbons (PAOs) and organic esters.PAOsThe base stock materials used today many popular synthetic oils are made of carbon and hydrogen molecules. Theseare synthesized from ethylene gas molecules into PolyAlphaOleflns (PAO). Almost all the synthetic oils sold in the stores are made with PAO base stocks. PAOs provide better viscosity characteristics, are more resistant to oxidation and have much better low operating properties than petroleum oils. PAOs are cheaper synthetic oil base stocks, and aren't as durable as the ester class of synthetic oils. Some of the popular brands of PAO oils include Amsoil and Mobil-1.These are known as a Group IV oil.ESTERS (Polyolesters)Organic esters are made by reacting certain acids with alcohols, forming acid esters. There are alcohol diesters andPolyol esters. This process uses expensive materials and results in lubricants that cost many times more than PAOs.Only esters are durable enough to withstand the rigors of jet engine operation and they are used in racing and high performance cars. These oils can cost $8 dollars or more a quart. Redline is an example of an ester synthetic oil.These are known as a Group V oil.http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/synthetic_oils.htm

As with most things Porsche, the change over from dual row to single was not a clean one; cars in the 2000-2001 need to be checked to see which one is actually in the car; although most (if not all) 2001's are single row.While the base polymer type is important to several factors in synthetic oils, and even more critical one is ZDDP levels. These engines absolutely hate the newer "low SAPS" oils (read reformulation away from ZDDP to titanium salts to protect the cats longer), leading to premature wear on several critical components such as the cam followers. So while looking for Group IV-V base stocks, also be critical of the ZDDP levels. To give you some idea of how this has changed, try researching the actual starting ZDDP levels in an oil, many manufacturers no longer even publish this data. Usually, you need to be looking at "boutique" oils like Joe Gibbs Racing or Motul for products with levels above 1000 PPM.