JFP in PA

A factory replacement engine will have all of the updates as of its date of manufacture, but while Porsche did find a fix for the RMS leaks (new design seal), the IMS issue persisted until they came out with the 9A1 engine which does not use the intermediate shaft. Because your engine was replaced in 2011, it will be carrying the last design IMS bearing, which is still the subject of reported failures, and cannot be easily replaced with the stronger aftermarket bearings because it is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the engine cases.

Well I hope if it's to big in diameter, it must be bigger and hopefully stronger,than the stock from the beginning?RegardsStefan

One would hope, but they still fail, plus they limit the options open to the owners.

All launch models share the basic software but different hardware packages. I've used both the Diagun and GDS to reset the service lights. The scanners can provide some data that Durametric can't but they are not as users friendly as Durametric. Launch customer service is awful where as Durametric is excellent.

With both those models costing way more than the Durametric enthusiast version, the choice would seem obvious..............

A factory replacement engine will have all of the updates as of its date of manufacture, but while Porsche did find a fix for the RMS leaks (new design seal), the IMS issue persisted until they came out with the 9A1 engine which does not use the intermediate shaft. Because your engine was replaced in 2011, it will be carrying the last design IMS bearing, which is still the subject of reported failures, and cannot be easily replaced with the stronger aftermarket bearings because it is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the engine cases.

Jake posted on another site that his IT people say the site is clean and they are looking into why Google search is doing this.

Check engine light and service reminder are two different events. Launch also has scan tools that can reset the service reminders. As for the check engine lights, it's something I wouldn't ignore and you'll need to have the DME scanned for fault codes and interpreted. Do not operate the vehicle if the check engine light is flashing on and off.

Which "Launch" models do the reset? They seem to have so many different units at pricing all over the map.

Thanks JFP for the pic. I did finally pick up the difference in the cam lock for the passanger side on the Bentley video. I'm moving right along with making my cam locks-made a dummy today out of aluminum.Is there a place on the web that I can go to for all the torque specs so I don't have to keep asking all the time? I am now ready to re-install the oil pan but can't find the torque spec for the bolts. Can anybody help?thanks.

By far, the best resource for torque specs are the factory manuals. Second best would be the Bentley manual. The sump bolts should be torqued to 7.5 ft. lb. (I prefer to use an inch pound wrench for accuracy on such low torque bolts, and tighten to 90 inch pounds).

It does make the clutch pedal feel softer to depress, however the way the boost spring mounts ahead of the pedal (towards the driver) and above the pedal pivot point, if it comes loose from the pedal assembly, or breaks internally, you can get both a stiffer pedal and sometimes one that stays a bit lower to the floor. It should be easy enough to confirm it is connected and working, but you need to look up under the dash to see it:

I fully agree that the clutch hydraulics should be suspect, which is why I inquired when they were last serviced.

Could be a couple of things; when was the last time the clutch was flushed and bled? How many miles on the clutch (lowering and/or stiffening pedal are common observations on an old clutch on its way out)? There is a "boost spring" assembly attached to the pedal under the dash; it may of come loose or is failing.

have you pulled the plug on #6? If it looks ok, swap with with #5

Today I will change out the new spark plug in #6 and put back in one of my old plugs and see if there is a change. Could a plug on be only affect at higher RPMs when under load?

Yes, a single plug or coil pack can break down under load.

I think Jake's site got hit by something and that caused the world to label it as a "malware distributor"; I just got on it without any issues: http://www.flat6innovations.com/

That would be a pretty good start. Problem with the OEM manuals is that they are all out of print now, so you have to bide your time until one comes up at a reasonable price, unless you want to subscribe to Porsche's program or buy the pages one at a time. One of the hardest to acquire are the OBDII manuals, which are extremely useful and often sell at stiff prices.

While there is an entire section dedicated to engine removal; there is relatively little depth on engine disassembly or assembly.

Is there stuff about the internals of the head at least?

The description lists this:

"Step-by-step engine and cylinder head removal and installation."

If you're removing the head, that certainly implies things like using lock/hold down tools, proper engine rotation/etc.

But I guess there is no "engine disassemble and reassemble" chapter listed huh.

Yes, there is a good section on cylinder heads (section 15, some 75 or so pages) that covers both the 3.4 and 3.6 engines, and even a reasonable section on the IMS as well. But if you are looking for detail on splitting the cases, and taking the crank and rods out of the carrier, that is where it is lacking. Over all, it is a good reference book, just not a complete one.

I'm pretty sure you have gotten a wrong code value, try rescanning the car with a Porsche specific system, such as either the Durametric system or Porsche's PIWIS and let us know what you find.

I'm very conservative when working around these engines; both sides should be locked.

LN has included two style tools, one for the five chain motors, one for the three chain version.

Thanks JFP, thats similar to the bentley 986 manual I have, 2005 edition printed in 2010.

It basically talks about how to do things on the outside of the engine but they don't seem to want you to dig deeper. The most in deepth would be removing the cylinder head cover.

Any suggestion where I can get more info (book) on disassembling/rebuilding a 2004 986S.

You could also keep you eye out for one of the factory manual sets, they show up for sale from time to time.

The service notification is a mileage based reminder to get the oil changed, etc. You need either a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software system to clear it (nothing else works).

While there is an entire section dedicated to engine removal; there is relatively little depth on engine disassembly or assembly.

Replace the factory band clamps with stainless steel screw type. But be sure the connection is free of build up or crud from the leak, and that there is no damage to the hose.

I do not have the tools to do a compression test. Today on the drive home I will log some data on my durametric and I will upload it this afternoon. What I don't know is what values I should check to help better narrow my problem down.

I did a quick test of the cam adjustment at idle with durametric. When testing the engine ran a little rougher when I tested both sides individually and returned to normal when I stopped the test. So I'm assuming that the cam adjustment is working fine.

Would a bad catalytic converter explain the lack of exhaust flow coming from the passengers side?

No, because it would effect all cylinders on that bank, not just the one. A bad cat would also throw codes.

If it is a car built for the US market, you should see cam movement on both sides.

2000 Porsche 996 coupe

120k 6spd

I need some help figuring this one out. At idle and normal daily driving I do not have not have any issues but when I down shift and have it WOT I get a cylinder #6 misfire when I reach 5K RPM. Here is a little more information:

misfire only in #6 at about 5 or 5.5K for the past 6 months

1) New coils 1.5 years ago

2) Changed Spark plugs over the weekend and inspected coils for cracks they were not any cracks in the coils the spark plugs showed normal wear

3)Durametric codes: I cleared the codes and this is the only codes that keep popping up

P0300 Porsche fault code 507 - Misfire detection (total)P0306 Porsche fault code 509 - Misfire cylinder 6

Could be any number of things; you could still have a coil breaking down under load, which could be eliminated by swapping with another coil and checking to see if the misfire moves with the coil. Bad injector would do the same thing, and could also be isolated by swapping test. You could have a bad valve spring on that cylinder that is hanging a valve open at high RPM. Afraid this is going to require some more digging and using the process of elimination to narrow down the problem.

Consider adding a UV dye to your coolant, then run the car around for a bit. Take a look around the engine bay with a blacklight source and it will become very obvious where the leak(s) is/are.......

To follow up on Logray's comments, he is correct that because the AOS does not carry pressurized oil, an AOS failure intermix is a one way deal, coolant into the oil. Personally, I have not seen this, but a local dealer had an intermix car in, and after dropping the engine and pulling both heads and the oil cooler looking for cracks, discovered a very small crack in the AOS body that was leaking coolant backwards into the oil sump. Needless to say, the service manager was just thrilled over the number of hours wasted trying to track down the leak.

So, while not at all very common, it can happen and is worth making note of for future reference purposes when encountering an intermix for which you cannot track down the source.

I always recommend the factory plug.

Normally, we do as well. But some customers want to try other things, which lets us learn how well those products work; in this case, the Denso plugs have done an exemplary job, so they make a viable alternative to the factory plugs.