JFP in PA

I always recommend the factory plug.

Normally, we do as well. But some customers want to try other things, which lets us learn how well those products work; in this case, the Denso plugs have done an exemplary job, so they make a viable alternative to the factory plugs.

The folks at Sharwerks made a threaded bolt though both pieces and then glued and Locite'd the bolt to keep things in place.Others have choose to take the parts out and have them TIG welded - somewhat hard as you really have to clean the pieces.

Thanks Loren,The fix itself isn't a problem, I trust my Mechanic's solution in that JB Welding will get the job done. I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to get around the issue of access to the part and was able to snake the fitting back into the casting without having to drop and dismantle the engine? One of the castings is easier to get to and only requires removal of the alternator. The casting in question requires about 15-20 hours of labor to get to.

Because of the number of fittings, and the level of pain to get at them with the engine in the car (if you can), the better approach has been to drop the engine out and do it on a stand. Overall, takes less time, and everything is pretty much out in the open.

Thanks guys. I'll try the pin first... if it doesn't work I'll cross my fingers on the replacement option.

Make sure you have the "A" style in Loren's post above, or you will snap off the nozzle trying to adjust it if it is the "B" style.

On a 996, yes, a bad AOS can cause intermix because the AOS has a water passage in it. It is not a common type of AOS failure, more often you start sucking oil into the intake and billowing smoke. But it can happen.

2000 996

CDR-220

Type 4462

S/N =X5031507

48/98

Thanks very much!

Try 8956

That is what we are here for................

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Sometimes you just have to bit the bullet for the expensive parts of these cars.

Hi guy I need a straight answer! I've been all over forums looking for the best plugs to get and my brain is fried! Some say NGK PFR7Q, or ngk BKR7EIX, then other say stick to Bosch FGR6KQE or even Beru plugs.So then went onto the ngk website and put in all the details of my car and it came out with something else.Can someone please help me out. Just want the most fuel efficient, performance maximising plugs that will last.

We have had excellent performance and life from Denso Iridium's IXU22 in the Cayenne Turbo.

Is it necessary or recommended to change engine oil after an AOS failiure/replacement? I've changed my AOS a couple of weeks ago and drove the car for +/- 300 miles. FYI-engine oil had been changed just before the failiure. However, I've changed the engine oil again tonight just in case, not sure if it was necessary. I just went for a ride and had the feeling the car was running better. Is it possible that the AOS failiure could have result into a coolant mix with engine oil?? This is what I was scared about. Maybe scared w/o a good reason!!

Changing the oil is not necessary unless intermix has occurred. That would be obvious, as the oil (or coolant) would have a “hot chocolate like appearance due to the formation of an oil/water emulsion. If the oil (and coolant) is clear and clean, you are fine.

To my knowledge, there are no published diagnostics for this module other than through the Durametric system or the PIWIS, so I am not sure you will get anywhere testing inputs and outputs as there are alot of CAN bus communications involved...........

On the Kessy system, you have 3 interior antennas, and 6 exterior antennas. All four door handles have an antenna in them, and the rear bumper has two.

Communication path for Keyless Entry - Opening VehicleTouching the door handle (proximity sensor) leads to sending a key query signal in the area of the vehcleProximity sensor in door handle detects a hand touching it and sends a wake-up signal on the line between the door handle and the Kessy/Immobilzer control unit. Kessy activates a search for a valid key in the area via the integrated antenna in the door handle. The carrier signal is a 125 KHz field that is brodcast by the door handle antenna. The search signal is modulated on this signal. The search takes place only on the side of the vehicle that the wake-up-signal was triggerd on.The key transmitter answers the query from the Kessy using the alarm radio frequencythe key receives the 125KHz transmitted, evaluates the signal and sends a corresponding answer using the alarm remote frequency (315 MHz, USA market) A normal 125KHz signal without the correct requesting vehicle information will not wake up the key; this reduces the quiescent current draw of the key.The vehicle receives the alarm remote key signal through the alarm remote antenna in the rear spoiler.The signal sent by the key received and evaluated by the kessy through the alarm remote antenna in the rear spoiler. The answer from the key contains a vehicle specific data so that only keys assigned to the vehicles kessy control module are woken up and this after the vehicle implemented wake up.The Kessy evaluates the key data and commands the central locking system to unlock via the rear control module.The communication between the kessey and the Rear control unit is via the comfort CAN bus.Communication path for Keyless Entry- Starting VehicleConfrimation within the igniton switch starts the search for a key within the vehicleWhen the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch and rotated the "S" circuit is actuated and the switch position is detected (KL15, KL50,) This initiates a search for a transponder in the interior of the vehicle. The search takes place at the same time on the outside of the vehicle by the interior antennas.The key answers the control midule request on the alarm remote radio frequencyThe key receives the 125KHz signal, evaluates this and sends an appropriate response via the alarm remote frequency 315 MHz.The vehicle receives the signal sent by the Kessy and releases the steering lock and enables starting in the DME and KESSY.The signal sent by the key is received by the kessy and evaluated. If the key is confirmed as assigned to the vehicle the starter operation is allowed and DME enable signal (via CAN) is sent. The starter engages and the engine starts.Communication path for keyless entry-Leaving VehicleOperation of the door handle micro switch leads to a key query being sent to the outside area of the vehicleThe micro switch is hardwired to the door control module and the door opening signal is sent to the kessy via the Comfort CAN. The kessy initiates a search for a valid key in the exterior area of the vehicle via the antennas that are intergrated in the door handles.The kessy evaluated the key data and controls the central locking system via the rear control module. The key data is evaluated in the kessy and then a command to lock the vehicle and actuate the alarm function is sent via the Comfort CAN.

See? All very simple...............

Kind of difficult to diagnose this, I think you need either the Durametric software or a PIWIS scan for more detail.................

Hi,

I have a 1998 Porsche 996 with an MDR-32 and the code I was given doesn't seem to work.

Model Becker BE-6623

Serial Number 15000058

Please help.

Thanks in advance

Shane

Welcome aboard! :welcome: Try 0464

I'd do the CPS first -- way cheaper, probably an easier fix too. Seen this at least 3 times.

then if you still have problems -- you can check the fuel pump pressure.

Mike

Good point Mike, I had not noticed that the OP did not post fuel pressure and delivery data, so I would at least check that before doing anything. And if I found no fuel pressure during a check, I would bridge the terminals on the fuel pump relay to force the pump to run and check it again to be sure it is not something else like the relay or the CPS, which causes the DME to shut the fuel pump off when the crank position sensor dies

Sometimes spending a few extra bucks can eliminate having to do a nasty job twice............. :jump:

Thx JFP! Both oreilly, auto zone wants $250 for it,,, made by airtex?

But is it an OEM quality pump (VDO), or a Chinese knock off? We have changed out several short life aftermarket pumps that did not make the grade…………..

Coils was my thought, but it seems weird that all of a sudden 3 of them would go bad.

They probably already were bad; the multiple moisture exposures just pointed that fact out. We often find coil packs with small cracks and often electrical tacking marks as well, so this is nothing unusual.

Never said they were cheap. Shop around, but I think you will find Sunset to be competitive.

Year and model?

Except for physical damage, these hoses are pretty long lived; we have a couple customers with over 100K and 200K miles on the factory units. If they look bad, have soft spots or blisters, change them out; but as others have noted there are a lot of hoses in these cars, and you basically need to disassemble the car to get at them all.

I had a conversation yesterday with a knowledgable Porsche airconditioning specialist, he said that the evaporators for our car are not long lived. Does anyone have any information on the longevity of our evaporators? The reason I'm asking is that I have my engine out and plan on replacing the receiver/dryer and if it's prudent I would replace the evaporator at the same time.

Thanks,

I don't understand where he is getting his data from, but unless physically damaged in some way, they are pretty long lived.....

Seems a bit low, I would strongly recommend getting the battery load tested.

Hello my battery just died over the winter :(

Becker CDR 220

Type: 4462

Serial#: 15002041

Thank you in advance!

Vince

Try 9133

The battery is only 2 months old.

without the dynamo on, the voltmeter show only 12 volts. is it too low?

should it be 12.x volts?

Way too low, should be around 14V.

If you are going use anything on the input splines and throw out bearing collar, a light coating of white lithium grease will do the trick.

Thanks logray and JFP for the link and blunt advice. I have now had a chance to review and I understand the seriousness of not following to a tee, if indeed I open up the IMS flange. I forgot to add in my previous post that the motor and clutch have 58,000 miles. Any thoughts on the prognosis of my IMS flange would be welcome.

If the dust collected around the IMS flange is dry, just clean it off and leave the flange alone. If that is all the crud built up in 58K miles, the IMS seals are doing OK.