JFP in PA

Hello I have a becker model number 6624 serial # 15005256 cr 220 and need radio code can someone please help me?

Try 9870

Internally, the main cat is a high surface area honey comb structure (the cat’s efficiency is dependent upon the available surface to react with the gas stream):

Cats cease to function properly when the surface of the honeycomb becomes coated with crud that prevents the gas stream from coming in contact with the honeycomb, but at the same time does not totally block exhaust flow through the honeycomb passages. When the honeycomb becomes even partially blocked, then the performance of the car suffers due to increased back pressure not allowing the cylinders to fully exhaust the spent gases. If mechanically blocked enough, the car won’t even start.

Second owner and i disconnected the battery can you help me.Becker 1Cdr 220Ser# x5028660Type 446248/98Thanks

Try 9858

I'm sure the pros are much better.

Perhaps; but as Warren Buffet once commented, “It is real easy to look like you can walk on water when you know where all the rocks are; but it takes years of getting wet to find them all.”

Quite often, when working in very confined spaces like this project, something as dumb as the position you hold your hand in while inserting it in there makes all the difference in the world.

I got them out this morning just now. I recommend removing the entire air filter housing no matter which side you are doing (you need to do it for the passenger side for sure). After this is out you can get to the 2 sensors on top of the cats from the top (engine compartment) but I strongly recommend using an open-faced wrench. There just wasn't enough room to get the tools I show above in there (at least for me, I'm sure the pros are much better).

Anyway, it looks like my cats are bad (especially Bank 1). See attached.

Questions from here:

1. What should I do? Bank 1 readings, if I understand correctly look BAD. Bank 2 looks like it's half working.

2. Assuming I need new cats, I guess it's not worth asking Porsche since I understand the warranty is 8yrs/80K miles and I have a 2002 with 102K miles. Would you guys recommend going again for the OEM cats or someone like Fabspeed? Or someone else?

3. Should I be looking at anything further upstream that could be cause for concern?

4. How much are my old/broken cats worth at a junk yard?

The strange thing is, you wouldn't know there's a problem with the car driving it. Seemingly no loss of power or anything else that might be alarming. I have read some other posts though that said there might have been a problem with the 2002's cats, etc. I have seen other posts with similar issues. Take a look at some of these is you are interested:

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/163011-what-does-dead-catalytic-converter-looks-like.html

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/572427-wtb-cats-for-a-2002-996-a.html

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/724702-what-to-do-when-the-fault-codes-reads-catalytic-converter.html

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/699181-catalytic-converter-lemons-to-lemon-aid.html

Yeah, bank 1 is not looking good, and bank 2 does not look far behind.

Porsche will not be of any help as you are way past the warranty points. But it never hurts to ask, you may catch them on a good day………

Cats die from vibration, age, and mileage unless fouled out by something like engine oil. I doubt anything upstream is an issue.

You may be shocked to find that most dealers now impose a "core charge" for old cats, not unlike alternators or starters. Even dead, the rare metal inside the cat is recoverable and quite valuable.

Take a look from the top down after removing the intake air tube, if you are using the sensor wrench I like, you should be able to get 3/8 drive extensions down to it (place sensor wrench on the sensor from below, then work from above), perhaps with a "wobble" joint in the middle depending upon the length of your extensions.

If it does anything connected to a BMW, it would be purely a coincidence; Porsche diagnostics are pretty unique, even tools designed for VW ( a sister company) have very limited utility on a Porsche. You would be better off getting a generic OBD II scanner....

The three-way is actually easier to change as the precat requires pulling the header, which almost guarantees snapped off studs in the heads.................

I am troubleshooting a P0430 right now on a 2000 Boxster S. From the Bentley manual I thought that 2000-2004 had the O2 sensors before and after the header cat (26 & 27 in the pic above), with no sensor after the main big cat that is closer to the tailpipe. I have seen several vendors that state that you can remove the big cat with no CEL because there is no monitoring after that cat. I thought that the 97-99 were the only ones that had an O2 sensor after the big cat (since that was the only cat they had, they would have 25 & 27 in the pic above). I had a line on a replacement big cat but I told that person never mind because I thought I needed the header cat.

I have never looked under the car so I am only basing from what I have read, but I feel like Papa Klump: I'm confused.

The cars came in multiple configurations between 1997 and 2004; some of the earliest US cars had only one cat (main three way) with sensors before and after it, then came the two cat version with sensors ahead and behind the precat, with none after the main cat (what you are describing). Then came the more conventional configuration with sensors ahead of the precat and behind the main cat. Add in the "RoW" (read non US) cars that only had one O2 sensor rather than two, and then in 2005 you get the US cars with two cats, one integrated into the side of the muffler assembly (red arrows below) just to confuse things even more:

Thanks again for the reminder to be observant.

Think of it this way: Quite often, the car is trying to talk to you, if you will only listen...............

According Porsche is a periodic refresh not required, only for major operations to the engine or replacing radiators and pipes = large coolant loss, it will be done. You are of course free if you wish, and maybe better, to replace the coolant after several years.

While Porsche does not set a time period for changing out the coolant, over the years we have observed that eventually the coolant will show signs of degradation (change in system pH, rising freeze point, development of cloudiness, etc.). This does not occur at any specific time (we have seen it in five year old cars, and had others go past 8 years with no problems). Being observant would seem more important than a calendar.

As the M96 also is also well known for its composite impeller related issues, most cars are probably going to have their system opened to replace the water pump well before the coolant begins to fade.

You non misfire codes appear to be throttle jacking issues (out of range).

If you have little or no results with the advice already given by several members of the board, disconnect the alternator as well and check again, often it's in the diode bridge of the alternator, a loss of 0,1 Amps. is much with an empty fuse box.

Interesting, I was just thinking the same thing...................

The car should have a normal draw in the 40-60 mA range when the car is fully powered down (everything off, then wait about 5 min. or so), anything beyond that is a problem. I would start looking for any aftermarket installs (radar detector, phone charger, iPod, etc.) that is connected to an "always hot" circuit like the cig lighter. We recently had a similar problem car in the shop, and found two small electronic device chargers hardwired into the system buried up under the dash by a previous owner; as soon as they were removed, the car showed a normal draw.

If you do not find any aftermarket devices, you then need to start checking the OEM stuff one at a time as they sometimes also can crap out and start an unexpected drain.

Yes, the post three way seem to die first.

When the cats die, you often get a rotten type smell, sometimes like rotten eggs, because the unit is not doing the chemcial conversion it is there to do.

An addtional thought, if you have a service station near by that does state emissions inspection, ask them if they have a "sniffer", which is a probe that is inserted into the exhaust to measure the gas mixture being emitted (hydrocarbons (HC) in parts per million (ppm), CO2 in percent, and the carbon monoxide (CO) in percent). Some also do NOx. If they do, have them test your car after it is fully warmed up (take it for a ride), you should see something to the tune of 200 PPM or less hydrocarbon, <500 PPM for NOx, and around 0.02 to 0.03% CO; if you do, the cats are fine, it is the sensors.

Main cat failures are not a common event, but they do happen. That said, I would be suspicious of both going south at the same time; that would be a very rare event.

You could also do the same test as a road test per the suggestion, and see how the sensors respond to large scale throttle and exhaust volume changes.

O2 and cat related codes are not instantaneous, they require cumulative "cycles" with out of bounds values to kick a code, otherwise the car would be throwing a code just about every time you drive it.

As mentioned earlier, you have previously thrown an "aging" sensor code, which needs to be evaluated (trying a new sensors on at least one bank) before considering jumping for the cats. Cars with failing cat also often have exhausts that stink because of the failing cats. The three way cats are going to retail around $2K each, sensors look like a bargain by comparison............

I'm OK with it if this is just means a replacement of the 4 sensors but it seems too coincidental that Bank 2 is now throwing faults. In other words, what are the odds of Bank 1 and Bank 2 both independently crapping out at once? As Ahsai said, it makes me wonder if there's something else going on further upstream. Just seems weird that Bank 1 and Bank 2 would both start to show problems at the same time. I've seen other posts about this same problem on RennList and 6speed, but unfortunately those posters never never followed up on their threads as to what the conclusion was so all I know is that someone else has had this same problem in the past.

I'm a little bit worried because I don't want to damage the cats while I drive around clearing codes trying to figure out what's going on if there really is a problem and it's not just the sensors. Making matters worse, I have a number of track events coming up in April that I can't afford to attend with the car at less than 100%.

Sometimes a load of questionable quality fuel can annoy the sensors, and many times the damage is permanent (fouling). You need to retest the sensors to see where you are.

From the sounds of it, I would bet that the sensor circuit is grounding itself on the pins, perhaps they have modified it to stop the problem. As I have never seen an affected vehicle, I can only speculate.

If you have a fax number, shoot me a PM and I will fax the diagrams over to you.

JFP & Loren,

Everything was fine the last 2-3 weeks but today the CEL came on again and when I got home tonight and hooked up the Durametric it's showing (see attached):

P0420

Porsche fault code 40 - Cat. conv efficiency bank 1

P0430

Porsche fault code 45 - Cat. conv efficiency bank 2

So the original error message did not reappear but now I'm getting these two. Weird since I wouldn't expect to all of a sudden have problems with the cats on BOTH Bank 1 & Bank 2 simultaneously when everything has all been fine up to this point.

I had ordered the pre-cat and post-cat oxygen sensors (1 of each) which I had planned to install on Bank 1 here shortly. Should I continue with this? I read these oxygen sensors are good for about 100K miles and I just rolled over that a month ago or so.

How should I proceed in troubleshooting at this point?

As always, your expertise and guidance is greatly apprecaited.

This is a situation where you need to walk a fine line; P0420 and 0430 are the indication of a three way cat problem, but with one massive caveat: If an aged oxygen sensor is coded along with the cat fault, the OEM diagnostic manual recommends retesting with a new sensor to see if the cat fault returns. The reason for this is the aging sensor(s) can give the false indication of a dying cat when there is really nothing wrong with it. And the three ways are very expensive. Previously, you threw a P2096 (Signal Delay Time for Oxygen Sensor Ageing - Above Limit), which indicates one, or both, sensors are slow in responding ("aging"), which makes your situation a "poster child" for looking at the O2 sensors before even thinking about the three way cats.

Connect the Durametric and test both sides front and rear O2 sensors to see if they are active and "in bounds" in responding.

Maurice, I do not have any photographs, but I do have an "exploded view" of what Porsche calls "the front roof lining", which is basically everything at the top of the windshield if that would be of anyhelp. It includes the sensor housing, but does not give any great degree of detail.

What exactly are you looking for?

There was a service notice for the 97 cars on the motion senor,

"Boxster Interior Monitor Sensor Mounting [grp9 6/97 9685 9/25/97] 1pg

Fault code 0470 CAN comfort in single-wire operationPossible cause of fault- Open circuit in CAN comfort (high)- Open circuit in CAN comfort (low)- Electrical fault on CAN comfort

You may need a PIWIS to resync the CAN system.

It looks like you have a CAN bus issue (470, 1336) which may be the root of the other codes. What is the year and model of the car?

While I can openly say that we have had no experience with them, visiting their website I noticed they are also selling what appears to be a PIWIS knock off of some sort for $3300 (including the computer), while the real thing leases (only) for about $17K. That leaves me a bit cold concerning what kind of firm they are.

That said, we have gone with GBox in Boulder, CO, (http://www.gboxweb.com/ ) a couple of times with excellent results. Not cheap, but they seem to live up to their reputation.

Go for the suspension first. Besides being cheaper, it will have an immediate and continuous impact on the car's handling; the limited slip will be more $ and will only affect the car's performance when it goes active. If you have not done so already, I would also take some DE lessons to learn how to extract the maximum from the car before spending large amounts of cash upgrading it; driving ability transcends the car's capabilities, you will learn to get the most out of it, regardless of how it is equipped.

Hi,Need some help on my becker audio cr-22Serial number W5010299Type 436745/98.Really appreciate your help. Thank you.

Try 6729

The code works perfectly.. Thank you so much

Anytime..............