JFP in PA

Hi,Need some help on my becker audio cr-22Serial number W5010299Type 436745/98.Really appreciate your help. Thank you.

Try 6729

This is maybe unbelieveable since both sources are porsche dealers. I'll have to call them again tomorrow and hold on to the filter from the west coast dealer. I don't have original owners manual for maintenance but have an internet printout that says to change the filter at 60k miles. Assume your input is based on the owners manual also. Thanks and more to come.

No, I run a shop, and we change them for a living. The give away here is that you bought the filter from a dealer, who had to ask you your year and model as there are more than one style filter for the 996 based upon model type (they mount in different places). To be fair, the other dealers probably forgot the cut off date for the change over to the integrated style.

And, as a matter of fact, there is a DIY to cover replacing the filter yourself in model years up to 2001, it can be found in the DIY section at the top of this page.

Sorry but that is not correct information; 2002 and later cars have the filter integrated with the pump, the earlier cars had seperate filters that are replaceable...........................

This might help:

Would be interesting to know as the writers of some of the VW software have repeatedly said the two systems are far too different for one diagnostic software to work on the other, but rumors persist that some functions are accessible on the Cayenne using the VW system. Considering the relationship between VW and Porsche, not to mention the vast similarities between the Touareg and Cayenne, that some cross over would be possible. But in any case, the PIWIS and Durametric do work on all Porsche models, including the Cayenne.

All Porsche models with "service interval alert" systems require either the PIWIS or Durametric system, nothing else works that I am aware of, although I have been hearing that with some of the later VW software may be capble of doing it on the Cayenne (only), but I have not been able to confirmed that.

No sure if it makes any difference its a British car right hand drive ,

Should not make any difference.

Working on a 2001/2002 996 turbo just done the spark plugs and that was a pleasant game ,Anyways the car now has no reverse lights , it has the MB tip box so I understand the the reverse light is controlled by the sensor on the bottom of the gear shifter ?I'm looking for some guidance on stripping it out to get to this unit , I have got the small ashtray out and the torx screws under and the ones under the rubber Matt fit hut back , other than that I'm stuck !Not my usual motor to work on , car belongs to a collection of royal family so would like to get it right as this 996 turbo has only done 815 miles on a 2001/2 not sure as its on diplomat plates !

The back light switch is part of the main switch sector on the side of the transmission.

Sometimes, it is just that simple..................

Cleaing the cable ends won't do, the corrosion is inside the cable end, between it and the cable (and often in the cable as well). I'm pretty sure there is a TSB on it in the "DIY Tools" archives (contributing members).

These bleeder valves can be "rebuilt" with some relatively cheap OEM parts, and if memory serves, someone did a write up on the process a while back. The biggest potential problem, aside from getting at it, is removing the eight bolts that hold the assembly together, they have a tendency to snap off if they get corroded, and then it is “tank time”.............

Thanks, never thought about the voltage regulator ? It was funny how I was getting more voltage at idle, then doing 3000 RPM ( 77 MPH) on the freeway, couldn't figure that one out ?

Is that 14 volts what it should always be when the engine is being driven normally, what are the usual lows and highs in the voltage, on a 996 ?Could there be another problem like the ground strap,or wouldn't that make a difference, Im not to savvy when it comes to electric ?

With the engine running at idle, the alternator output should be in the 13.8-14.5V range.

There is a TSB on the car concerning high resistance cables (both positive or ground) which can cause all sorts of problems (hard start/no start particularly when warm, dimming lights, weird MIL indications such as PSM or ABS faults when none exsist, etc.). Many times the cable ends look awful due to built up corrosion. The cables are not outrageously expensive, but they are a bit of a pain to install because of the way they run around the engine bay.

Hello everyone, have to be a honest…little disappointed in the few reply’s for input on the upgrade to my exhaust system and any experience with Schnell exhaust products...Sport Catalytic X Pipe, Mufflers, Headers? I thank all of you that did reply, and do value your thoughts. Have already heard about and looked into the FD Motorsports some time back and don’t see were a bypass pipe on a Muffler is going to give me much more then sound. I do agree that some modifications can hurt performance, however I have already installed an K&E air filter system and upgraded the ECU and both of these have greatly improved the performance and drivable of my Porsche. I may not have the knowledge that many of you have, that is why I asked for input. From my old school days you cannot increase performance by just putting more air and fuel into an engine, you have to also have a way to get it out, so my thoughts are following this line of thinking. A pair of free flowing mufflers and Sport Catalytic X Pipe to reduce the back pressure, not eliminate it would seem to help the engine breathe easier and work in harmony with the updated air filter system and ECU. With all the talk and feed back on this site about Catalytic bypass pipes and cut outs my questions have missed it’s intent. Keep the quality of my Porsche and keep it street legal, all ECU functions operating, improve not only the sound but the performance with the help from some knowledgeable Porsche enthusiast.<br />

I think you may have missed the point of some of the responses as well; many people have tried many different exhaust components on these cars, only to discover that the factory pieces are not all that bad. In cases where before and after dyno runs were done by a totally independent and reputable dyno shop rather than the company making the exhaust components, some very expensive hardware has been shown to not only fail to increase power output, but in many cases actually reduced it. Then there is the well-known resonance problems caused by some aftermarket exhausts, which range from merely annoying to headache inducing din.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with looking at ways to extract more performance from your car, just be sure to do your own research and take the manufacturer’s claims with a grain of salt………………

Your running voltage sounds a bit low, at speed it should be more like 14V. Suggest having the alternator checked out, could just be a dying voltage regulator, but it could also be something more in the alternator.

The diagram covers "all layouts", so it can be confusing. Yours should be 25 & 26. Not bad to get at, just don't mix the sensors up, they are different (longer or shorter harnesses).

Hi Loren,

Had to replace the ignition lock and switch assemble (great DIY by the guys here - I went the instrument cluster removal route), therefore, I disconnected the battery resulting in the need to enter the radio code. I soon found out that I did not have the radio code with my manual set. So, if you would so kind, I would greatly appreciated it.

Becker CDR - 220

Type: 4462

SN: 15062306

24/99

Thank you, Rob

Try 6405

JFP, Thank you for the clarification regarding which ‘cat’ (pre cat or main cat converter) is failing when you get a P0430 code. The reason I stated the pre cat was based on the On Board Diagnostic information that I received from Form members indicating ……

from ON -BOARD DIAGNOSTIC for P0420 , P0430, "Note: In the case of a catalytic converter fault in the Boxster (2.7l and 3.2l), only the pre-catalytic converter is to be replaced ".

The note indicates the pre-catalytic converter to be replaced ???????

As for checking the operation of the O2 sensors (pre and post) below are the Durametric readings…

At idle and 180 degrees engine temp……….

BANK 1

Front O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.08 to 0.78 fluctuating (like roller coaster) resistance reading: 128 steady (flat line)

Rear O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.68 to 0.76 steady (flat line) resistance reading: 320 steady (flat line)

BANK 2

Front O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.09 to 0.78 fluctuating (like roller coaster) resistance reading: 64 steady (flat line)

Rear O2 sensor voltage readings: 0.65 to 0.79 steady (flat line) resistance reading: 192 steady (flat line)

All (4) O2 sensors heater voltage: 2.05 v

I understanding that these values/readings are normal and functioning. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Sorry but the OEM OBD II diagnostics manual for your car lists P0430 as "conversion too low on the three way", or main cat on cylinder bank 4-6 (bank #2), it is not the pre-cat. The OBD II manual's solution in the decision tree if code P0430 persists is "replace three way catalytic converter".

Try checking the main cat on bank #2 for temperature, if it is lower than exepected, you are in the market for a new three way on bank #2. You can also reverse the O2 sensors side for side to see if the code changes to a P0420, which would be the same issue, but now on bank #1, which would be indicative of a sensor issue rather than the cat itself. Be sure you test this thoroughly, because the three way is one very expensive part..............

BECKER CR-210

BE2182

T5001036

PLEASE? AND THANK YOU!!

Try 1098

Be careful when testing using temp as you can be mislead and fail a working convertor. As a general rule of thumb, the outlet temp should be 50C higher then the inlet but there are many other factors to consider.

True enough, but a main cat that is running substantially colder than expected is usually a good sign of a problem with the cat. More often than not, when we see a P0430/0420, it traces to an O2 sensor issue more often than the cat itself, which is why I implied that the OP should be sure they check out before even bothering to check the cat temps.

My 01 Boxster S (70K miles) has starting throwing P0430 CEL codes. Through help from Porsche forums I have ruled out bad O2 sensors and other upstream stream systems causes. Before I investigate changing the pre-cat, I remember reading somewhere that with an infrared thermometer you can read the temp of the cat as compared to the manifold and determine if the cat is bad by the temperature differential. Has anyone done this and is it a good indicator to make the final decision to purchase a new cat? How much difference (higher) should the pre-cat be? Thanks

First of all, P0430 on your car is not the pre-cat, it is the larger main cat (called the "three way") on cylinder bank 4-6. Assuming you have tested the O2 sensors before and after the three way, and that they are in working order, the main cat should be running at greater than 386 C (727 F).

Somtimes you just have to "bite the bullet"..............

The first thing I would do would be to get a can of spray electrical contact cleaner and try cleaning out the buckles thoroughly (a build up of crud inside them makes for poor electical contact), that often does the trick, and it is cheap. Just make sure everything is electrically dead first by disconnecting the battery.

Some owners of the early 986's have gone through more than one set of seat belt buckles; it is a commonly known issue.

Which part number in the diagram is broken? The part number you gave is for a $1,500 tank assembly...............

Stant makes both a great kit, and adaptors for just about anything (we have two Stant’s in the shop). Reasonably priced, built like a tank:

http://www.stant.com/repository/documents/12270.pdf

Late model VW, Audi, and Porsche adaptors are all the same.