JFP in PA

The crank should be "miked" for trueness and bearing size, as well as journal roundness.

Let me guess, the tie rod tool you used did not look like this:

I am not aware of anyone selling the conical insert for the steering knuckle on the hub unit. I believe they are an interference fit part that comes with the hub assembly, which is not cheap (about $900 per side).

You can try heating the insert to get it off the tie rod end, but be careful not to damage it as it will need to be pressed back into the hub carrier.

Thanks, JFP, always value your input. Yes, I have read about the Metzger engines and I know they are legendary.

So that said, I realize the engine is completely different. As Mike questioned, I was just wondering if there were any specific weaknesses I should be aware of in the engine design specifically. I realize there will be other little issues like the window regulators or whatever, and I apprecaite those being pointed out very much, but at this point I'm more concerned with the fundamental design of the engine. At the $50K that JFP cites, I want to know what I'm getting into. I have really gotten into tracking my car and I know at some point I will outgrow my 4S, as much as I love the thing to death. The 996 Turbo with X50 seems like a very affordable upgrade when I'm ready. Every car is going to have little things here and there, they are machines, but I want to make sure the the engine is completely sound, especially since I would look for one with higher mileage (~75K+ miles).

Also agree that forced induction on a M96 is a stupid thing to do for a number of reasons.

Thank you to all for your input.

All of the Porsche street cars share components like window regulators, electrical switches, and sensors; it would be too expensive to do otherwise. So some of the sensors and electronic bits have similar failure rates in the Turbo or GT2 as a 996/997. But the engines in the Turbo and GT2 cars are a unique mechanical design honed over years of hard core racing, and share just about nothing with the more "pedestrian" M96/97 engines. Can you break a Metzger lump? Sure, if you try hard enough or go completely nuts with it; which is why PCNA has a replacement engine program for them. So if you want to take one of the Metzger’s and take it to the limit, just bring money, lots of money........... :eek:

I keep hearing of folks that want to do Forced Induction on their M96 engines.

I tell them for the price of what its going to cost you, sell the 996/7 and buy a 996TT.

There any many little things in common with the 996, but like has been said the engine is not from the same base design.

Any issues with the Turbo and cylinder head cracks or cracked cylinder liners?

Mike

Not really, unless you go nuts with the boost levels. The components were designed for ruggedness and racing use, castings are thick where they need to be, and proven over years of hard running. Basically, the factory broke just about everything that could fail, and then improved it.

Running just about any level of boost on a M96/97 is asking for problems and shortening the engine's life expectancy.

Is this a comprehensive list of known Turbo issues? Because I don't see anything on that list that I would really consider as "major", like IMS.

The Turbo uses the Metzger design engine, which is completely different than the M96/97 engine found in all the 996's. While it does have a lay shaft, it is pressure lubricated and relatively bullet proof, as is the rest of the engine. Read up on the Metzger engine, it had a true dry sump system and a lot of other improvements over the M96/97, which is why a replacement costs north of $50K.

I need my radio code. Can you help me?

I have a CR 220

serial # is 15085136 or 15086136 / I have a digit that is partially out on the radio.

radio type is 4462 or a 4452 / Again I have a digit that is out.

24/99

Thank you very much for your help.

Try 0642

The car should hold 3.8 bar pressure when it is not running, 3.2 at engine idle. All flow measurements are with the engine off for safety reasons, plus the engine would not run well, if at all, while doing a fuel delivery test as it would be fuel starved.

The regulator is vacuum operated, throttling back the fuel delivery and pressure (opening) under high vacuum signal (idle, cruise, or deceleration) and stepping up fuel delivery(closing) under low vacuum signal (open throttle for power) or during engine start. It essentially is bleeding off excess fuel to the return line when not required by the engine.

If you are referring to the round plastic "turret" where the fuel supply line connects, it is just part of the fuel level sender unit, which also includes the tank vent line and fuel return line, and extends down into the tank.

That is pretty much how the system functions. You should have as much fuel delivery at the return line as at the filter. While we are on the subject, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator for being involved in the noise you hear at start up? Reason I ask is your earlier comment about the fuel pressure swinging from high to low and then building back up sounds like it could be some sort of blockage, or it could also be related to the pressure regulator opening and abruptly closing when it should not be doing that:

While I hate to be throwing in more possibilities at the 11th hour, if the regulator were to "dump" the fuel rail pressure, nearly all the fuel volume would suddenly be passing into the return line, which could be the source of the sound you hear as it heads back to the tank. Unfortunately, there are very few tests to check the regulator, but one common rule of thumb is if If the operating pressure is below 35psi, or fluctuates wildly, and the fuel pump seems otherwise fine, it’s probably a good bet that the regulator is bad. If you pull off the vacuum connection and there is fuel dribbling from the nipple, the diaphragm inside has failed and the regulator must be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator could also explain why the return delivery rate is so low.

It sounds like a blockage of some sort, the return line should also be at least 850 cc in 30 seconds.

I have been dealing with fuel system issues now since day one. I purchased my 986 in November 2011. The very first day I heard a howl from the fuel filler area. For 6 months, I would occasionally hear the howl and also get a P0442 CEL for a minor evap leak. I read a bit about it during that time but never came to anything conclusive. It didn't affect performance, but I knew it would be something to be dealt with sooner than later.Turns out it was sooner... The past 7 months now I have been having major fuel system issues. I have researched everything I can think of including Diagnostics manuals, Durametric, Pressure tests, etc. but I cannot figure out my problem. I feel I may have multiple problems in the fuel system.List of symptoms:-very rough idle most of the time, the whole car shakes, a little gas and it smooths out-howl sound has moved from the fuel fill area to the area around the pump under dash (only howls when starting or turning off vehicle)-gas mileage is terrible-major loss in performance (sometimes it runs better than others but I haven't found a common denominator)-occasionally engine will rev higher than input of the throttle. It's a sudden change and the DME quickly adapts the FT's-CEL for Major Evap Leak (P0455)So far I have done the following in trying to diagnose this. There are so many valves it could relate to, and I just hate to keep "throwing parts at it".:-Replaced fuel pump relay-replaced fuel pressure regulator-cleaned injectors, manifold, etc-replaced AOS-replaced oil filler tube-removed and inspected fuel pump-removed and inspected charcoal canister/vent valves/vent lines-removed and inspected fuel pump-tested fuel pressure at rail (I have video footage of the gauge...)-durametric- I have video footage of various readings like fuel pressure difference, fuel trims, etc, while it is idling poorly, but could find limited information regarding its meaning)The fuel pressure diff will climb until it reaches 40ish and then drop to 5-8 and start building again. Is this normal? This was not listed on the nominal durametric values.Fuel trim is -2.00 for the long term... This is way off of the nominal value.I completely removed charcoal canister, valves, etc, and have been venting into the wheel well the past two days to narrow the problem. It seems to have not changed anything. It stills operates with as inconsistent performance as before. I read some post about boxster race cars just removing the system so I figured it couldn't hurt for a couple days... I plan on reinstalling it though for the sake of the CEL.I hope I have covered everything. It's late and my mind is shutting down for the day so let me know if I missed anything. It's a 2000 2.7L. 5 speed. Thank y'all all for your insight. I am ready to have her running like a top again!Link to durametric video https://www.dropbox.com/s/6a2p94usfyjuc50/summary.movLink to video of fuel pressure gauge (sorry it's a little dark) https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzmtog3c8nkn4n0/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge.movThanks so much for your help!!

Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure.

A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either.

Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, and have you pulled it and at least checked it to see if it is blocked?

Yes, I felt the fuel pressure readings were askew as well. I could not seem to get consistent pressure readings in relation to key cycles... I did not jumper the relay though... Switching the key on and off should produce the same results as the jumper, correct?

Secondly, were do I go about disconnecting the fuel return line in order to measure flow? I need to do this...

I replaced the fuel filter about a month before these issues started occurring... Is it possible to get a bad fuel filter? It was from Pelican Parts... I suppose pulling it out and inspecting it would not hurt... I will do that when I measure fuel flow, hopefully tonight...

IMO, if fuel filter is okay, it must be due to a bad fuel pump or vent valve that sits next to the fuel pump access hole...??? Thanks for your input!

Believe it or not, there is even a spec for fuel pressure in these cars when they are not running: 3.8 +/- 0.2 bar; which is even higher than the idle fuel pressure.

Normal method to check fuel delivery is to disconnect the fuel line under the car at the fuel filter or at the return line (which is under one of the removable panels near the front of the engine; if you have access to a Bentley manual, it has pictures) so that you can catch the fuel in a measuring container. As your problems started just after installing a new filter, I would start there. It is also possible to check fuel delivery volume at the fuel rail by disconnecting it and routing it to a line that runs to the collection container, but the under the car method works fine and does not require a special routing line to run the test.

And yes, there are bad filters, right out of the box……

I would also try running the fuel pressure test with the gas cap off; yes, that may throw a “large vacuum leak” code, but I would want to see if the fuel pressure changes when the cap is removed.

I have been dealing with fuel system issues now since day one. I purchased my 986 in November 2011. The very first day I heard a howl from the fuel filler area. For 6 months, I would occasionally hear the howl and also get a P0442 CEL for a minor evap leak. I read a bit about it during that time but never came to anything conclusive. It didn't affect performance, but I knew it would be something to be dealt with sooner than later.Turns out it was sooner... The past 7 months now I have been having major fuel system issues. I have researched everything I can think of including Diagnostics manuals, Durametric, Pressure tests, etc. but I cannot figure out my problem. I feel I may have multiple problems in the fuel system.List of symptoms:-very rough idle most of the time, the whole car shakes, a little gas and it smooths out-howl sound has moved from the fuel fill area to the area around the pump under dash (only howls when starting or turning off vehicle)-gas mileage is terrible-major loss in performance (sometimes it runs better than others but I haven't found a common denominator)-occasionally engine will rev higher than input of the throttle. It's a sudden change and the DME quickly adapts the FT's-CEL for Major Evap Leak (P0455)So far I have done the following in trying to diagnose this. There are so many valves it could relate to, and I just hate to keep "throwing parts at it".:-Replaced fuel pump relay-replaced fuel pressure regulator-cleaned injectors, manifold, etc-replaced AOS-replaced oil filler tube-removed and inspected fuel pump-removed and inspected charcoal canister/vent valves/vent lines-removed and inspected fuel pump-tested fuel pressure at rail (I have video footage of the gauge...)-durametric- I have video footage of various readings like fuel pressure difference, fuel trims, etc, while it is idling poorly, but could find limited information regarding its meaning)The fuel pressure diff will climb until it reaches 40ish and then drop to 5-8 and start building again. Is this normal? This was not listed on the nominal durametric values.Fuel trim is -2.00 for the long term... This is way off of the nominal value.I completely removed charcoal canister, valves, etc, and have been venting into the wheel well the past two days to narrow the problem. It seems to have not changed anything. It stills operates with as inconsistent performance as before. I read some post about boxster race cars just removing the system so I figured it couldn't hurt for a couple days... I plan on reinstalling it though for the sake of the CEL.I hope I have covered everything. It's late and my mind is shutting down for the day so let me know if I missed anything. It's a 2000 2.7L. 5 speed. Thank y'all all for your insight. I am ready to have her running like a top again!Link to durametric video https://www.dropbox.com/s/6a2p94usfyjuc50/summary.movLink to video of fuel pressure gauge (sorry it's a little dark) https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzmtog3c8nkn4n0/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge.movThanks so much for your help!!

Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure.

A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either.

Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, and have you pulled it and at least checked it to see if it is blocked?

I took the car for a 120 mile cruise yesterday & it ran great. No smoke, great power & best of all no codes. Oil level is the same, 1 segment below the full mark on the gauge, almost to the upper mark on the dipstick as when all this started.

Good, you are back in business.

Check the crank position sensor, when they go bad the DME does not see the engine turning over and shuts off the fuel. When it does this, it won't throw a code but the car won't start.

If memory serves, there was an article in Excellence about the metal tube inserts that the hoses attach to coming loose on the Turbo and GT cars (they are apparently glued in and the glue sometimes fails). The “fix” is to get the inserts welded into place by a competent welding shop:

You could be having similar issues.

I think he is refering to the OEM manual's recommendation that you should not remove the mount from the bracket as that could damage the mount:

Some have commented that they have done what the manual recommends against, others remain more circumspect, or simply buy the OEM replacement with the bracket already attached.

Has the coolant level been dropping at all?

So a $2 switch marked up the $55 at the dealer. Gotta love this game.

And who was it that said, "If you want to get into the real money, start a religion......" :eek:

Unbelievably, the Boxster service manual for the same year has a better image (the cars share many of the same parts), and it looks like the inside handle assembly has a couple of openings in it that the switch just snaps into, and then the cable plugs in. I’d also try to cross over the part number with a friendly VW or Audi dealer, they all share a lot of components.

Sometimes these cars are just infuriating when it comes to small parts….

Shop around, I have found them online for $35-40 each. Have also made progress with some details, it is item #20:

I have not been able to find any diagrams or photos of how the inside handle switch mounts, but I did locate a part number: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides). Perhaps if you can get a look at the switch, it may become more clear on how it mounts.

Hi All

As you are aware i am selling my car and it has no problems at all BUT it does have after market HIDs that caused weird things to happen like many other peoples cars on here.

One buyer has asked if he can plug in an OBD diagnostic reader and i am concerned that since it used to do strange things - oil light/roof open light come on/spoiler would raise/solenoid would constantly chatter etc.

What should i do ?

Think i will def remove the HIDS and take it off listing BUT give them to seller and explain/tell them come here for info.

Can i buy a tool and check/clear any faults that it may of caused and can anyone recommend one of Ebay ?

I am based in the UK

Thanks

Scanning the DME is a normal part of any pre purchase inspection; any potential buyer sould be more than concerned if the current owner did not allow it.

If you are planning to get another Porsche, the optimum scanning tool would be the Durametric Enthusiast software, which is Porsche specific and an excellent DIY tool. If you are not going to stay with Porsche, I would consider a more generic OBD II scanner like those from Actron, which will function on any brand vehicle but lacks some specific Porsche functionalities.

The OBD port is located near the steering column, beneath the dash.

And just for general reference purposes, when we do a PPI, all aftermarket HID installations are considered “deduct” items due to the inherent problems both with the kits and the problems they often cause.

I just replaced my passenger side window regulator. But during the process the inside door handle microswitch decided to blow its guts out and the tiny parts that blew out are lost.

I cannot figure out how to extract the switch. How do I get the switch out?

1999 996 cabriolet 6 speed.

Thanks!

The door lock micro switch in inside the door handle assembly; remove the door handle and lock cylinder, and simply unclip the switch (a small screw driver helps). This is covered in the new Bentley 996 manual (page 57-9) if you have access to one.

If you do not have the Bentley manual, which is a great DIY tool, and would like to acquire one, there is a link on this site to the RennTech Amazon store where you can get a good deal on one, and the site benefits as well.

Have you checked the wiring harness for the sensors? It could be frayed wiring or a connector issue.

Mike, check the "News and Rumors" section, the photos of the new system are there.

While Techron never hurts, it will not clean out the intake runners, as the engine is a port injection type, so the fuel enters the intake system right at the intake port. It will however clean off the injector nozzles, so it is not a bad idea.

P0420 and 0430 are three way cat codes for both banks and can be as the result of all the crud in your intake system. Once the AOS is fixed, and the intake systems cleaned out, clear the codes and take the car for a long, highway speeds drive so the cats get good and hot. That should clean them out

.

Sitting on jack stands, with the suspension hanging (not recommeded by Porsche), can cause issues with the suspension (corrosion on the exposed strut shafts), but will not do much else.