JFP in PA

Either pressure or vacuum will work; take the Uview unit vacuum down as low as you can get it and then cut off the air flow and see if it will hold that vacuum level for at least 30 min to an hour. If it does, you probably don't have a leak. You may want to put a small hunk of masking tape on the Uview's dial as a reference point during the test.

Uview is not the only firm that makes the UV dye, several companies make it as well. We get the Uview product in six-packs of 1 oz bottles that cost a little less than $3 per bottle.

Thats the exact step Im at. Used two small jugs of flushing cleaner as recommended. And Im on my 3rd flush of distilled. The color is exactly the same as the first drain. The water in that flask has a very slight sheen to it also. I think Im catching an intermix issue right at the very beginning. No?

If you are having an intermix issue, it has to be very slight. Two suggestions to contemplate: (1) Have the cooling system pressure tested, even very small leaks show up in these simple tests. (2) Get a small bottle of UV dye for engine oil (Uview, the people that make the Porsche vacuum filling system sell it) and add it to your oil. Run the car for a day with just water in the system, and then pull a sample of the coolant and check it with a UV light to see if it glows. If it is a very small oil transfer, it will still light right up as the dye is very sensitive.

I don't see an intermix, I see cloudy water. Intermix between coolant and oil gives you something that looks like lumpy hot chocolate, usually with drops of oil floating about.

Suggest recharging the cooling system with distilled water and a cooling system cleaner, run it for a bit, drain it and then flush it at least twice with clear water. I'll bet the second water flush comes out clear.......

It is not that simple. To be completely safe, you should first check the cam deviation values using a PST II/PIWIS/Durametric, and then the engine should first be locked at TDC (that is the only position in which all of the intake and exhausts valves are unloaded). We would then lock the cams. After replacing the tensioners, recheck the cam deviation values to be sure nothing has moved.

Some have been able to remove them one at a time with the engine locked at TDC and the cams unlocked and get away with it, others have not been so lucky.

Porsches do not leak refrigerant at any higher rate than any other make. Some cars are problem children and leak practically from day one; others go past 10 years with no leakage. In addition, as for “pop off valves”, they have been illegal on A/C systems for a long, long time.

We have a customer with a restored 1989 Cadillac that ran for more than 20 years on R12 and then burst one of the high-pressure A/C hoses. We replaced all of the hoses, converted the car over to R134A and it has run another 7 years without a problem. We also have a customer with a 2 year old Corvette that the dealer has never been able to fix the leakage on even after multiple trips to their shop. Sometimes certain cars are just a pain in the butt…….

As for what pressure either the high or low sides should be at, that depends upon the ambient air temperatures; Porsche, like most OEM’s publishes a chart that provides that data, but it is specific to the surrounding air temps.

"I follow recommended service intervals, oil and fluids change every 2yrs."

I'd seriously reconsider that length service interval and look more towards every 5-6K on the engine oil........................

You can pressure test the entire cooling system and see if there is a pressure drop. Almost any shop can do this.

As for "in-car" flywheel locks, by far, Porsche makes the best unit (part # 000-721-953-81) which is also an extreme rarity: It is inexpensive (around $20).

As for the flywheel bolts, never had an issue; 1/2 inch air impact pulls them right out.

I'm not familiar with your exact set up, but on cars with a true iPod interface (OEM or aftermarket), the iPod goes to 'sleep" a few min. after either the system is shut down or the car is turned off. That function is built into the iPod.

Possible leak at the oil cooler, not uncommon.

Price on the clutch is pretty good, but I would ask what it includes parts wise and what brand parts they are using; I doubt it includes the IMS, which is a nearly $600 part by itself, much less its installation. The RMS is a $20 part that only requires a few min. to install.

Try bleeding the slave first, it you somehow got air into it, that should clear it. If it does not do it, the problem lies deeper...........

As a benchmark, to do an RMS/IMS update on a Tip equipped car, you would be looking at $2-3K range, including everything (and a new AOS, which is fully exposed when doing this, so it is the perfect time). And before you ask why so much, Tip cars a always a bit of a handful when doing one of these updates.

Yes, the latest RMS can be installed without the $400+ tool (Porsche only source) by using a 3" CPVC pipe union (Lowes or Home Depot) and the original flywheel bolts. The pipe union has an internal ridge that the flywheel bolts rest on, and by slowly cross pattern tightening, you can set the RMS to the required 13MM depth from the face of the crankshaft for less than $4. The OEM tool is real sweet and quickly sets the RMS to the spec (we have one), but $400 for a tool you would probably use once in your lifetime is just a bit much for the average DIY'er…………..

The converter is completely enclosed by the Tip's bell housing when mated to the engine, you have to work through the starter opening to remove and replace the six bolts attaching the converter to the flex plate, rotating the engine 120 degrees between each set of bolts. And as someone has already mentioned, don’t drop any as that will require pulling the trans again to get them out.

"Special tool fee"? Sounds like they are charging you to buy the $400+ tool to do the job, very poor form for a shop to charge the customers for their tools..............particularly when you can fabricate the tool from a $3 CPVC pipe union.

Don't be too over joyed; that means you have the unit that cannot be serviced without tearing the engine apart...... :eek:

I have no idea what the poster was using those bolts for, but they are in the holes that bolt the converter to the flex plate.

The Tip is much like other automatics, with the exception of how you get at the bolts holding the converter to the flex plate; on most cars it is more out in the open.

The only systems that will reset the service interval reminder are a PIWIS or the Durametric software; nothing else works. Neither of these will work on your BMW, they are Porsche specific...............

Unfortunately, that has proven to not be correct. There have been several "number ranges" bandied about for this over the years, and ultimately all have come up short. The only proven way to know for sure which bearing is in a 2005 engine is to pull the flywheel and look for the 22MM center shaft nut

Have you tried clicking on the "Documents" tab on the blue banner at the top of this page?

All manual gearboxes make some level of noise, how much is akin to “beauty being in the eye of the beholder”. Some seem to find fault where there really is none, others it would seem could miss a nuclear weapon detonation. That said, we have seen several cars that were louder than most, all for the same reason: Wrong gear oil. Switching them back to the OEM fill usually solved the problem.

P 0420 and 0430 are codes for low three-way catalytic converter conversion on both banks. The system is looking at the O2 sensor readings before and after the TWC and not liking what it sees. Problem is that it would be very unusual for both TWC’s to crap out simultaneously. Five separate test sequences should be run in order to see if the cat is bad or the problem lies elsewhere. As the TWC’s are expensive, it would be worth getting the tests run by a competent tech.

Two things to consider; first obtain and add a bottle of coolant system infrared dye, then run the car for a day. Second, pressure test the system while looking around with a infrared inspection light in a dimly lit area; where ever the leaks are, you will see a bright fluorescent color from the dye.

Most shops are fully capable of doing this for you and the procedure will find all external leaks quickly.