JFP in PA

Yes, that looks like a sensor, as you can clearly see the locking/sealing nut on the stem. Just about every type of shop has TPM system tools these days, particularly tire shops. Many will test for little or even no charge as replacing just one of the sensors is going to generate a lot of revenue for them......

Try:

Denny's Driveshafts

1189 Military Road

Kenmore, New York 14217

They balance.

Not to sound pedantic, but have you checked the bulb?

I'll repeat what I said about a week ago in reference to an equally bogus PIWIS system.............

How about instead you support the people that support us.............

That is for the in-tank pump (which is also different on the DFI cars), the mechanical high-pressure unit has been an issue and quite a few have been replaced under warranty. No idea what that sells for as no one has had to buy one yet due to warranty coverage, but knowing Porsche, I'll bet it has an eye-watering price tag.............. We have heard (second hand) that the mechanical pump driven off the cams is in the $1K neighborhood, but have no confirmation of that.

Another possible is the fuel pressure regulator either defective of losing vacuum signal.

It's a gray market car. No warranty. :-(

That may make the P1284 code definition "Prepare to spend serious money" as the fuel pumps in the 2010 997 are going for north of $600......................

RFM is correct, that wheel does not look like it has a TPM sensor in it (the tire valve stem is black rubber instead of threaded metal). Any dealer, or good indy, will have a TPM sensor testing tool and be able to confirm that.

Be willing to bet the previous owner tried to disable the TPMS when they put those wheels on the vehicle......

"Castrol Sports Edge" or "Castrol Pro Edge" are unfortuantely not available anywhere in North America due to the addtive package it uses. You sometimes see it "grey market" on the internet selling for $75-100 for a 5 liter bottle. I seriously doubt that BMW would be selling it as the EPA would be having a fit if they did.

Hi. I was supplied with a replacement (recon) alternator for my 2002 Boxster S but it had the solid pulley fitted instead of the freewheeling / overrunning clutch type.

My garage fitted it anyway but found that it only charged at 8.4 volts. The alternator supplier is telling me that the reason it only delivered 8.4v was due to the incorrect pulley being fitted rather than any internal fault with the alternator which I find difficult to believe.

We fitted another alternator with the correct pulley & this one charges fine.

Has anyone any experience of running a "solid" alternator drive in place of the "freewheel" type please? Does it in fact result in a lower charge output or is this a red herring by the alternator supplier to avoid picking up the second set of labour charges.

Thanks

That is nonsense, the alternator was bad.

From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system.

With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices.

There are several, the only three you really need are the Learning Code, the Immobilizer Code, and the DME programming code. With those, you can do all the programming you will probably ever need.

They look somewhat like greenish rubber bands. I would not reuse these gaskets; fortunately, they are relatively inexpensive.

Have you tried removing the oil cap while the car is running? If the AOS is in good shape, you should be able to remove it without much force, if it takes a lot, the AOS is failing.

There is ususally a slight oil film in the connections you mentioned, but not a lot.

When we do a PPI on a car, we tend to list aftermarket lights, and particularly the headlights, as “deduct” items. Sure, the LED’s “look cool” and all, but from a maintenance standpoint aftermarket lights can be a real headache. We have seen everything from electrical issues (including damaged wiring harnesses), brake lights that don’t work properly, strange turn signal issues, to noise in the car’s audio system; and very often replacement parts for these lights are nearly nonexistent or very hard to obtain. We have recently seen some replacement LED headlight assemblies that looked like they were HID projector’s, but were actually halogens that put out less light than the factory units; and leaked water into the unit when the first time the owner washed the car. Sometimes even the installation instructions that come with some of these products are incomplete, make no sense, or are dead wrong.

So yeah, they look nice, but sometimes at a cost.

The declutching pulley is very obvious when you look at it because it has a really strange looking fastener that attaches it to the alternator (it is a pair of 12 splined shaft and fastener that requires a special tool to undo, costs about $20 online)

I can't help you on the bearings or brushes as we send the units that need them to a local alternator rebuild shop and they install them. You might want to check out similar shops near you for parts as they would have the best handle on what is available.

The basic “rule of thumb” for any make alloy engine is to never allow them to overheat because it causes all sorts of issues such as cylinder head cracking or worse. Does not matter if it is a Honda or a Ferrari, you lose that drive belt and can’t fix it where it stands, call for a tow…………. And all makes of cars break the belts, not just Porsche's.

These engines really hate being over heated; you should have called a tow truck.

It looks like you have a failing alternator, or at least a dying voltage regulator. Car should have around14V running and high twelve’s off.

The voltage regulator is common to VW, Audi, MB, and even some Fords; do not buy a replacement regulator from Porsche, the VW unit (same part numbers) is less than half what Porsche dealers get. Do a search, lots of info on this.

If yours has the declutching front pulley, that is also available from multiple sources.

There is a schrader style port (looks like a tire air valve stem with a brass cap) on the fuel rail by the intake manifold that is used for fuel system testing, very neat and clean way to do it.

Both the delivery rate and pressure are measured at the fuel rail port where the guage attaches.

That is significant, to the tune of about 41% below what it should be. Try the filter first, but it may be the pump itself.

With enough money, time, and welding equipement, anything is possible. Question becomes “Is the view really worth the climb?” Some time back, an advetursome sort tried to put a late model 3.8L Turbo engine into an early Boxster; before he was anywhere near finsihed, he had already spent more than it costs to buy a new Turbo car.

Along with all the elelctronics, you will need to replace the entire fuel system as your car runs around 50 PSIG, while the DFI motor is running close to 1700 PSIG……

I did check the sparkplugs yesterday - I changed them with others - the same than before.

I'll try to check the fuel pressure and the delivery rate.

The manual says "special tool 9559 and P378a" can someone please tell me how it looks like and where to connect exactly?

In my manual the picture is so bad that it's nothing to see...

If there's a thread - which size is it? I've got some possibilities to make an adapter by myself and some gauges I have, too.

It is a pressure gauge with an adaptor. Actron has a similar system for about $50 or so.