JFP in PA

The AOS unit for the 996 has water passages in it. You need to retrace your install.............

Just about every shop has a TPM sensor/tester that can read the condition of the TPM sensors inside the tire by just holding it next to the wheel, have someone check a couple of yours.

The only thing products like this do is make your wallet easier to sit on; don't waste your money................

Because you can get it were you are (it is not available in North America due to its higher ZDDP levels), I would be looking at Castrol’s Pro Edge (not the regular Edge product, the “Professional” line), and I would try to obtain their 10W-60 grade because of the heat that you see. Really good oil, only wish we could get the Pro Edge line here……….

From the 2005 Porsche TSB...

"Changing over Pentosin CHF 11 S to Pentosin CHF 202.

The hydraulic fluid Pentosin CHF 11 S, which was previously used for power steering in the vehicles, will

be changed over to Pentosin CHF 202.

Once existing inventory has been used up, Pentosin CHF 11 S will no longer be available from the parts

department.

Pentosin CHF 202 is approved for use in all instances in which Pentosin CHF 11 S was previously used

and can be used instead of Pentosin CHF 11 S regardless of the information printed on power-steering

pumps and oil tanks.

Both types of hydraulic fluid can be mixed."

Loren, while the dealer network is no longer stocking the 11s (due to the car’s changing over to the 202 post 2005, and the fact that the products can be mixed without issue), the 11s product is still readily available in the aftermarket (most NAPA stores stock it, and even discount it). We are able to obtain it in quantity whenever we need it.

Mixing the 11s with the 202, or substituting the 202 for the 11s is not an issue, but there is a slight difference between the two products, mostly in viscosity, so we try and stay with the 11s for the pre 05 cars whenever possible.

The bad news is I am going to have some diagostic charges. Any ideas on what is fair considering they misdiagnosed this? :blush:

I was out at a PCA Club Race this weekend, and was chatting with some of the Boxster Spec guys, and they said that they all run transmission coolers (they especially mentioned that the third gear synchro goes bad without cooling).

Since I run track days with my 986 3.4 conversion, and I'm putting about 100 more HP through the gearbox than they are, I'm wondering if I should consider a cooler?

It looks like it's not too big a deal to include fittings during a transmission rebuild - I think the big question would be where to mount the cooler. I'm already running the GT3 center cooler up front. The Spec guys mount it below the rear trunk with mesh through the rear bumper, but I'd rather not do that to a street car.

Thoughts? Honestly, I've never really heard of the transmission needing a cooler, and maybe I should just wait until my gearbox blows up to worry about it ;)

Transmission coolers and differential coolers for cars with separate units are a fairly common item in racing circle’s as the gearboxes can get very hot. Requires setting up an electric pump capable of circulating the gear lube, braided lines and a cooler large enought to do the job somewhere where it can get air. Another approach is to use an oil/water inline cooler connected to the car’s coolant system, which can be much more compact as it does not need outside air to work.

Glad you got it worked out.

2005 was a transitional year, some M96/97 engines had an IMS bearing that could be removed without taking the entire engine apart, and others did not. The only way to know for sure which type you are working with is to pull the trans and flywheel and look at the IMS center bolt; if it is a 22MM, you cannot service it without total disassembly of the engine.

+1 on Loren's comments. When you encounter low torque values (like the oil cooler fasteners at 7 ft. lb.), you should be using an inch pound torque wrewnch instead of a foot pount unit.

NO MOTOR MEISTER!!!! Please move caustiously. Motor Meister are well known crooks (Do a search.) Also stay away from Fabian Rooke. DO NOT consider a 3.6 conversion..

How much is your insurance going to give you? If the car is in great condition you may want to buy it back.. You could piece it out if you had to.

I'm sure there are people in your area that can rebuild your engine if you choose to do so. You may want to buy a used engine.

Or you can just buy another Carrera...Lots of great cars out there.

But PLEASE be very careful who you do business with, Run it by us first...

Good luck!

+1 A lot of pople been screwed by these folks..................

As much as some would like to debate the utility of the LN lower temp thermostat, it has proven to be a valuable addition to street driven cars. It significantly lowers the operational (steady state) temperatures, and even more importantly also lowers the oil temps. UoA’s have shown that oils stay in grade longer. And while some argue that water and fuel remain in the oil because of the lower coolant temps, again the UoA’s have totally refuted those claims as well.

We have literally dozens of customers running them, both on the street and the track, and all the results have been totally positive…………………

After a bit more research, is that the freon that I see on my garage floor? The compressor kicks in normally. Any thoughts?

Freon is a gas at ambient temperatures, it would not create a puddle on the floor. That is most likely coolant.

Both versions are capable of activating the pump for the bleeding/flushing on a 986.

The ABS/PSM control system is a very expensive unit. If you get a used one, be careful, they are sensitive to dirt, moisture and corrosion, so know whom you are buying it from. You will also need access to a PST II/PIWIS or Durametric system to swap it out as it requires a special bleeding sequence and activation.

Are you sure it isn't a cracked line? They are a lot cheaper.............

Yes, it just pops off. If you need to "help it" come loose, try sliding something like a tongue depressor under the edge to get it started. Once you have the trim off, it works like this:

Don't be concerned if you need to snap off the old bits as you will not be using them again...........

The LN 160 stat is fine for the street, we have a lot of customers using them with no issues.

It could be a defective hose, but that would be pretty rare.................

Glad to hear you worked it out.

I would agree with Maurice, move the clamps. If it still leaks, you may have a small bit of debris inside the hose that is keeping it from sealing.

We have put several sets of these Precision modified tubes in for customers and not had any issues, so it has to be something small.

thanks jfp... ill try the system flush first. I gotta say im annoyed at myself as i constantly check all other fluid levels. The brake fluid got missed which is extremely dumb...

Don't beat yourself up over it, "fecal matter occurs". When the fluid level gets low enough, and the car is on an angle, it is fairly easy to uncover one of the ports in the master cylinder and suck in some air without the low-level indicator lighting up.

Flush the entire system and let us know how you make out..............

Couple of possible alternatives: You may have just stripped the plug, which would just require its replacement; but you may have also stripped what it screws into. As you have no idea of the system's integrity (e.g.: if the plug will stay put or not), you need to have this looked at. If that plug drops out while on the road, the results could be a disaster.

You sound like you had very low fluid (adding 250 ml is a lot), and now may have gottem air into the system. I would suggest getting the system flushed with new fluid, and see if the brakes recover. If not, you may need a new master cylinder.

First off . . I have a very early build 997 (Launch Car #337). I'm the 2nd owner (have had it for well over 5 yrs) and currently have >26K miles; no IMS or RMS issues. I'm led to believe (no substantiating data) that Tiptronic equipped 997s (which mine is) are less prone to IMS/RMS because they're 'rev limited' via the DME and therefore 'over-stressed' less.

Cars with the Tiptronic are no more or less prone to IMS failures; fewer are reported simply because of the ratio of Tip cars to manual gearbox cars. RPM limits also do not factor into the failure either. The IMS bearing is believed to die because the seals on it fail and allow motor oil to wash the high pressure grease out of the normally sealed assembly, and then the trapped motor oil breaks down and the bearing has little, if any, lubrication. Obviously, this process is independent of the transmission type. If you would like to learn more about how this process takes place, I’d suggest the LN Engineering and Flat Six websites will provide you with more data than you probably really want to have.

This is usually a mileage tripped alert (time for an oil change) rather than a trouble code, and can be cleared with the Durametric or Porsche systems only. If there is a real issue, the Drurametric system should also see that as well.