JFP in PA

This subject has been beaten to the point of nauseum. Why don't we just create a folder or link with the IMS subject? Then the curious can find there answers there without having our brightest members answer the same questions over and over and over... Just Sayin... :soapbox:

You are assuming that the newest poster would bother to run a search and find it.........................

Like most OEM’s, Porsche no longer prints any service manuals, but only makes them available online via subscription. You need to also be aware that Porsche has a reputation for severely protecting what they see as their intellectual property, so be careful buying pirated versions.

Jake as developed (and continues to improve) an interesting system, particularly for those with the 05-08 engines that cannot easily be IMSR retrofitted. The system seem to work well and I have not heard any issues other than DIY installation hang ups, which he has moved to address with better instructions and changes to the system to make it easier to do.

Any M9697 engine with an intermediate shaft is at some risk of suffering a failure. The early cars are better known because they have been off warranty longer, have had more owners comment on forums such as this, and have more road miles on them. But the later engines still suffer IMS failures.

I really would not be driving a car with a coolant leak around; if it totally fails, you are stranded, and you could do some irreparable harm to the engine if it overheats (alloy engines do not like being overheated). Park it until it is fixed.

The AOS (when new and correctly functioning) should show a vacuum of about 5 inches of water at the oil cap with the engine running (temp is pretty much irrelevant). When the AOS craps out, the vacuum level at the cap sky rockets to several times the correct level, making it nearly impossible to remove without a substantial degree of effort.

It is also not uncommon for the engine to stumble or have the idle speed change with the cap is removed (remember, you just vented an engine vacuum source).

The 9A1 is a much better design than what it replaced, having addressed many of the issues of the M96/97. That said, only time will reveal any new potential flaws. You are correct on the DFI/carbon deposit issue, but the DFI also shortens oil life (much higher fuel intrusion) and introduces 1700+ psig fuel pressures that have shown some pump failure related issues. Unfortuantely, because any of these problems would be covered under warranty, little information has leaked out to the aftermarket to date.

Calibration of the fuel system is a time consuming process and requires access to a PST II/PIWIS unit to accomplish. The tank has to be totally drained, then refilled with a specific amount of fuel for the process. Disconnecting the battery is not going to do it.................

The spin on filter adapter is only for the Cayman, Boxster, and 911.

It will fit the V8 Cayenne, but not the V6 version which uses a different size filter more common to VW and Audi..............

We prefer the Actron because it has a side pressure vent line to dump the system pressure before disconnecting (saves on clean up and smell), which can also be used to test fuel delivery rates. As it also comes with an collection of adaptors, and Acton/SPX introduce more adaptors at low cost when new systems come out, it never goes out of date and can be used on just about any make. I would also be concerned about someone using the A/C unit on an A/C system after it has had gas in it; I do not know how the A/C would respond to fuel or fuel residues in the system as most are pretty bad about comtamination................

I believe the Actron part is the shrader adapter 180-000-1299 (About $3), but as I am away from the shop at the moment, you might want to give Actron a call to confirm that.

Or the LN spin on filter adaptor...................

Actron has a Pro model fuel pressure unit (CP 7838 about $50) that you can get the $3 adaptor for and does the job perfectly.

Any shop with a pressure tester and the correct adaptors can check out your system in about 15 min.; that said, expect the dealer to charge you at least an hour labor. Find a good independant and have them check the system out, it will save you money......

WVicary is correct, you need to pressure test the system first as it is not uncommon to have more than one leak point. Throwing parts at the car is the wrong way to go................

Your data looks confusing; if you let the car idle, does the deviation values remain at a constant number? You should also be able to see a graphic showing both cam's positions at idle, and look something like this...................

WVicary is correct, it is an absolute bear to clean oil out of the cooling system. We have had to run water and a cleaning compound in the system multiple times, followed by multiple changes of clear water before it was clean. Not expensive, but very time consuming.............

Passed away at 89, one of the true giants................

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/12/sports/carroll-shelby-builder-of-cobra-sports-car-dies-at-89.html

Going "backwards" from 3.6 VarioCam+ is just that, a move in the wrong direction. Either a rebuild or a bone yard replacement would be a much better bet, and would help retain the car's real value as well. Plus a smaller and lower HP engine would be very noticeable performance wise.

Brembo no longer has the hybrid kit (or parts for the rear) available.

Try running the same part number past an Audi or VW dealer; some (but not all) of these are common to those cars as well, and much cheaper from a non-Porsche dealer.............

I would bet that the other side sensors are on their way out, which is why I asked who did the tests. Age wise, your car is in the "zone" where the batteries in the wheel sensors start to crap out, which weakens the signal strength and the receiver stops seeing them. A sensor tester held near the wheel will still see them, but weakly, giving the false impression they are fine. If you hold the tester close, you get a signal, but if you back away slightly, it disappears (it is an RF signal).

If I am correct, the sensors need to be replaced (the battery is not replaceable). This requires dismounting the tires, spending about $100 per wheel for sensors, remounting and balancing the tires. And you can thank all the morons on the road that will not take five min. to check the air pressure in their tires once a month for the fact the federal nannies had to force the OEM's to install these totally unnecessary, expensive, and annoying systems in all cars...............

First of all, you have a 987, not a 986, so this is posted in the wrong forum

The TPMS is two part system, senders in each wheel, and a receiver in the dash; so it has to be one of the other.

Who tested the system (dealer or indy)? Reason I ask is the type of tire sensor tester matters..........

The generic style code readers that AZ uses will not even see a Porsche airbag; he needs either a PIWIS or the Durametric system......

So say I go with the Porsche one "http://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Battery-Maintainer/dp/B001684X76/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_2" as opposed to a CTEK., and suppose I already did the Cig lighter retrofit."Contact Jeff at Sunset Porsche, there is a $20 retrofit kit to change the lighter over to US specs in about 10 min"

Will the Porsche maintainer still fit in the retrofit plug?

-Don

Yes, I just tried it in the shop. The old style Porsche maintainer (small black box style) has a stepped lighter plug that works after the retrofit; the Porsche branded Ctek units were sold after Porsche stopped bringing in the cars with the European DIN lighter and went to the "US spec" lighter, so they will fit also.

That said, I would go with a non-Porsche branded Ctek unit long before I would use the older style Porsche unit; the Ctek is a much more sophisticated system that is superior to the old style Porsche "charge-o-mat", which is probably why even Porsche stopped using it.