JFP in PA

I think 2001 was the last year for spark plug tubes. I don't think any of the 3.6 engines had them.

2002 was the "official" last year. As with most things Porsche, some had them in 2002, some did not............

P0455 is the "large vacuum leak" code for the EVAP system; usual suspect is the gas cap..................

Yes, unless he has a replacement engine. 2002 was the last year for the tubes, 2003's did not removable tubes.

To change the plugs, and pull, inspect, and re-o-ring the plug tubes (only if they show signs of leakage and they need it) should take a couple hours of shop time plus parts. Actual cash value will depend upon the shop's prevailing hourly rate and local parts pricing. I would also have the coil packs checked out for cracking or deterioration due to their age, any questionable ones should be replaced.

We do this for a living so you can imagine how many plugs we change in a year; we use anti seize on all sparkplugs, torque all plugs, and have never had one back out. That really is an "urban legend"................as are claims that your wheels will fall off if you use it on your wheel lugs, which we also do...............

The valve at the engine end is more of a check valve than an operational valve (it has no electrical connections); I think you need to look more closely at the EVAP canister end. One thing you can do is hook the car up to a PIWIS or Durametric system and cycle the various valves at the canister end to make sure they are functioning.

Have you also checked the seal on the gas cap? They do fail and cause noise as well.

Yikes!.............

Hopefully some more tech-savvy people will chime in here. If suction makes it difficult to remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running, it could indicate that your Air Oil Separator is bad.

He is talking about the gas filler cap, not the oil cap, which is an EVAP system related issue, which is usually a vacuum leak and why he is seeing stumbling issues when driving.

K&N is really no better than the Wix unit, but it is a Hell of a lot more expensive. Mahle is the OEM unit, although some cars have come from the factory with Mann filters in them as well.

Sorry I can't help to answer the cost involved question but I think one of the best reasons to replace spark plugs due to time is to reduce the risk of them seizing into the cylinder heads. Spark plugs can become glazed from short trips due to them not being at operating temp long enough to burn themselves clean. This isn't so much a concern with the newer cleaner burning engine.

Just another thing to consider is replacing the ignition coils at the same time due to age.

This is exactly why it is a very good practice to put a small amount of anti seize on the plugs before torquing them in, along with a small amount of dielectric grease on the coil boot.. We have had cars come back for plug service more than eight years after we replaced them, and the old plugs came right out with no drama. A lot of people like to say that using anti seize on the plugs in these engines is not called for, but once you see the grief a seized or galled plug causes, the silver paste suddenly becomes cheap insurance. We have never had a coated plug cause a problem, regardless of age or mileage..........

thanks for the input. still on a mission to rebuild cheap cheap. used motors are no fun.

cheap may not be possible either !

Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........

We see this type of variation all the time; you are in spec and fine.

I ad exact same issue in my 99 carrera..deutsche parts pump failed after about 1500miles..I also only bought it because of the metal impeller which was recommended on some youtube videos.

The lesson I learned: not worth saving a few bucks on el cheapo aftermarket parts promising that "made in Germany"=good quality...bought genuine Porsche part now and will install next week.. Will never buy aftermarket rubbish again...now I have to do the job again.

You should never, repeat never, use a pump with a metal impeller in the M96/97 engine. When the bearing goes, and it will, the metal impeller can chew the Hell out of the engine case, possibly ruining it. Stay with the OEM pumps with composite impellers only...............

Spend the $36 and buy the Sir 9025 set, you will be able to fix this problem, as well as any other similar issue on any car you will ever own in the future...............

I am getting ready to remove the tiptronic transmission from my 99 996. I wanted to see if someone could give me the step by step process so that I don't forget anything. I am replacing the torque converter, IMS, AOS, and RMS. I have done some work like this but not on a 911.

Will the tiptronic transmission come out of the 99 996 without removal of the engine?

When replacing the torque converter do I need any other parts, seals, special tools, etc?

What needs to be unhooked during the removal of the transmission?

I have been able to find some steps online but it was for the boxster.

Thanks to everyone.

To relplace the front seals (converter snout and front pump) on a Tip, you need at least three special tools, which are the same ones used on VW & Audi.

If memory serves, a 2001 Boxster will not have any OBC displays until some type of controling switch (e.g.: the fourth stalk or a momentary contact rocker switch) is installed and operational.

The Durametric problems sounds like a glitch.

Well one thing for certain is usually the aftermarket filters make more noise, which people tend to like.

And they are usually some strange color hue, which is weird because they typically cannot be seen..........

I am yet to see any definitive dyno data from a reputable source that shows any after market filter consistently makes meaningfully more HP or torque. Most of what you find is regurgitated marketing hype from one or more manufacturers, which is a lot like the whopping gains some exhaust system and header manufacturer's claim.

I have seen a few write-ups elsewhere that indicate these are total hoaxes. I agree with Loren on the possibility to boost that much on a NA with a chip. I doubt you get any boost. Some articles have actually looked at the technology and found the connections they use only power the chip and do nothing for the car performance. Hope that helps for what it is worth.

Something else to consider.....For a little more than that kind of horsepower on a 997 TT I spent ~$2500 for a DME tune. Doubtful anything for $69 on a NA car could really do much. Even the 10-20 HP claims seem unlikely. Tunes for 996/997S in that range are still over $1000, and that is under optimal condition...

I guess if you feel like trying it, you only risk $69.

Good luck, and maybe other have more experience with this?

DC

We always are concerned about third party DME re flashes potentially causing some type of harm to the DME itself (read expensive to replace), or causing loss of warranty (a real issue) on new cars. This device perplexes me even more because it attaches to the IAT sensor via two wires and supposedly works its magic reprogramming from there rather than the more conventional route. Weird……

Without reading the codes, anything would be a wild guess...................

I would also be one for looking very closely at the engine mounts............

First, I would not switch gear oils; this subject has been covered many times and the OEM fill is still the best route. Besides, if the gear box had a problem like a bad bearing or the like, new oil is not going to fix it. It sounds like you have an engine/drive line vibration that is showing up in the shifter. Problem is that you need to try to spot the source either by having someone else drive the car while you crawl around and try to find it, or run the car on a dyno and look for it.

Sometimes these annoying problems are difficult to find and can chew up a lot of shop time in the process simply because there are so many possible candidates..............

I have to believe that the actual source of the vibration is not the shifter itself as the shifter is bolted to the floor and not solidly attached to anything else. I'm afraid you are in for an "Easter Egg Hunt" to find this one..............

Never connect accessories to a 5 volt wiring, it's the CAN-BUS wiring. Strange and unexplained failures will occur. Repair everything ASAP in their original state.

+1 on this, you really do not want to get involved with CAN-BUS headaches...................

JFP..Thanks for the info.. I'm sure Porsche will make the 991 even harder for you to deal with....

I can't wait to have to explain the price quote to change the air filters.......................