JFP in PA

Gents,

I've been googling the companies listed and it looks promising. JFP, do you know the exact tools needed for this job. I saw mentioned in other threads that the "manual" states what tool is supposed to be used, but not sure which manual. I'm guessing this is the official service manual used by the dealership. On the Porsche one, all I was told was the tool was marked "3383", but is this actually something like "P3383" or something? An exact tool number might help my search or inquiry with these companies.

Thanks for the leads all!!

I am not sure of the numbers for the tools, but both Samstag and Baum list a "3383 double sealing ring installer tool, 3384 Assembly Mandrel, and 3385 Sealing Ring Installer" for VW transmissions..................

The ABS and PSM MIL lights going on with no related codes is often a battery or charging issue; test the alternator's out put and have the battery load tested.

Anytime...........

Gents,

My car has been in the shop for 2 months now (seriously.. long story) getting transmission work done. It started leaking differential oil and not sure of the cause. This a 2000 base TIP with 75k miles. My mechanic is sure it might be some seals ("front converter seal" and a "double lip seal") that need to be replaced.. long story short.. he calls me today and tells me they require special tools for the removal of the "double lip" seal and a special tool for the installation of it. He says the only place to get it is Germany and it will take another 6 weeks to get... ugh...

He did give me the tool numbers to see if I wanted to try to source them locally myself. He said the dealership will not loan/order tools for the public any more :(

Is there ANY way I can get my hands on these two tools if anything just to borrow for a couple of days? I believe he said the removal tool was a VW tool and the other was "3383" for the installation tool. Are there any Porsche mechanics on the board here that have access to these tools that might be willing to loan them out for a couple days? I have the VW tool number too, but having trouble finding the paper at the moment. I'll post it tomorrow.

Can anyone help? I miss my car :(

I can fully understand your frustration; I have also had to wait on multiple occasions to get tooling to complete customer’s cars.

A couple of suggestions on tools for Tiptronic transmissions: these transmissions were used in VW’s, Audi’s and Mercedes cars; so start scouring the net for tool suppliers for these marquees such as Baum or Samstag and the like. I’d also be searching enthusiast websites for the brands as well; you cannot be the only one that has looked for these tools, you might even be able to locate reasonable priced used tools………..

As the individual you appear to feel “lambasted” you previously, I have to also agree with Loren on the diagnostics for this code; you do not have a bad cat, you have a small wiring harness or connector issue with the sensor behind the three way on bank 1 (cylinders 1-3).

Perhaps if you price out a replacement three way cat, you would see the potential advantage of looking at the sensor wiring……………

As for us operators of the havens out here for “spoiled rich boys”, just remember that we at least know what we are doing.

Obviously, you have a leak. I would not be driving the car until you find out what is leaking and get it fixed, it is not going to heal on its own; and a sudden coolant dump could end up seriously overheating a very expensive to replace engine. Get the car looked at.................

No, I have never had to change out the valve, but I have blown a few out over the years.

It really doesn't seem to make a lot of difference which end you put the air in as long as the line is clear..............

Getting at the line and purge air valve under the manifold is not fun, as you have discovered. I have not seen it written up anywhere other than the OEM service manual set.

At least every year if the miles are low, and change it before it gets put away for the winter.

Replaced coil #1, and now it runs like a Porsche again! Pulls smoothly with more power than I've had since roughness began. I can pull away in 2nd again, whereas before I couldn't shift until 15 without bucking.

Thanks for the input guys.

Thought so; glad to be of help..............

Pretty well from what we have seen. We noticed that fuel contamination of the oil was higher than pre-DFI cars (as expected), so we have shortened the oil change intervals to reflect what we have seen, and will be logging more data to see if we need to readjust. There have been some occasional fuel pump issues (the DFI cars run 120 bar or 1,740 PSI fuel pressures), but because the cars are so new, they have all been warranty problems. I have also heard some dialog about a couple of problems with the front crank bearings, but I do not have first hand knowledge on the specifics what that is about or how wide spread a problem it is. A bigger concern for us is the total lack of diagnostic support for the independents to deal with the PDK, only thing available is the factory PIWIS lease, which remains exorbitant…….

I don't even want to think what the insurance bill would be for that..................

Most Porsche enthusiasts believe that you should run and/or drive a Porsche on a regular basis to keep the engine properly lubricated and keep the seals from drying up. In theory, this would help prevent leaks. In the case of the 996, it should keep the intermediate shaft bearing lubricated, potentially helping to prolong the life of this component or prevent a catastrophic failure. Porsche doesn't release the numbers of failures of M96 engines due to the intermediate shaft bearing, but anecdotally, it seems to happen more often on low-mileage, garage queen cars.

I don't think it will hurt your vehicle to frequently run it and drive it.

I think that all you can do is take in all the opinions and data and make up your own mind. Personally, I feel that it is better to run and drive these cars often.

All well and good, but some do not have a choice in the matter; my customer's employer sent him on a multi year assignment in Asia and he did not want to leave his Ferrari and Turbo Cab for his two teenage sons to "warm up once in a while" to keep the oil circulating while he was 12 time zones away. Both cars survived prolonged storage without incident, which is more than I can say for his sons..........

Not to my knowledge, as far as I know, the last time I checked, these were the old and new numbers:

996-105-180-54-OEM Old style IMS tensioner

996-105-180-56-OEM New style IMS tensioner

996-105-051-58-OEM Old style 1-3 tensioner

996-105-186-01-OEM New style 1-3 tensioner

996-105-053-58-OEM Old style 4-6 tensioner

996-105-188-01-OEM New style 4-6 tensioner

That said, I think Logray went through this dance and found out that some parts had been superseded yet again so God (and Stuttgart) only knows what the latest parts are. Suggest giving Jeff at Sunset Porsche (board sponsor) a call, he is usually up on the latest changes

I’m afraid I cannot agree with this. For years, we often store cars for some of our better customers for several months at a time (some have winter and summer homes), during which they are never started. I can honestly say that I have not seen any indications of prolonged storage causing any oil leaks in cars that were not leaking before being put away. We had a Ferrari (F458 Italia) sit for over two years while the owner was overseas, no leaks, and started right up after turning the engine over into oil pressure. Been a couple of years since it was stored, car is doing fine as a “fine weather” daily driver.

As for “dry starts”, pull either the fuel pump fuse or relay out of the car, spin the engine into oil pressure, put back the fuse/relay, and start it up, letting the engine warm up before driving. We have been doing this for years, never had an issue…..

The 05's have the same IMS design as the 996 and that's a very weak link. 06's through 08's have the updated IMS. Not that it can't fail either but it's an improvement.

Actually, some of the 05's also have the "final solution" IMS, which unfortunately cannot be updated with out a total engine tear down............I hardly call that an "improvement"...............

And before you ask, no, there is no way of knowing which IMS is in the car without taking it apart.

Dip stick is final word.

Really? Then what would you suggest for the cars that have no dipstick?

The M96/97 engine can blow a puff of oil every now and again and be considered "normal", but not every morning.

Sounds like you may have and AOS on the way out; try removing the oil filler cap with the engine running. If it comes off with little difficulty, you are fine; if it does not want to come off, you have too high a vacuum in the sump because the AOS is toast.......

Hi all. While we are on the topic I am planning on doing my first oil change in my recently purchased C4S. I know I need a special bit to get the sump plug out, but I dont know what to expect with the OEM oil filter/housing. Do I require any special tools to remove and refit the oem oil filter? Thx

Yes, two: A torque wrench (which you also need for the oil plug) and a cup style filter housing wrench (many sources).

Use clean motor oil; we do it on all these we install. Also be sure that after you torque the adaptor in, you also lube the gasket on the new spin on filter with oil, and then only tighten the spin on filter 1/2 turn past hand tight. You cannot imagine how many people try to torque the filter on to the OEM specs, and then wonder why the adaptor comes off with the filter. Put the lubed filter on as described and you will not have that problem..............

You need to also check that all this hardware supports the signal type that your phone uses as European phones use different frequencies and telecom data protocols.

Nothing is particularly pointing towards vacuum leaks, but I'd like to eliminate that as a cause if the coil packs don't fix it.

Reason I asked is that vacuum leaks almost inevitably cause specific codes to appear, which you have not mentioned. You should also note that your MAF had almost no impact on the car's idle conditions. Do the coils and let us know how it panned out.....

Two approaches: 1) Use a smoke gun; or 2) Use a butane or propane source on slow bleed around the suspected areas. Note of caution: Obviously propane or butane are highly flamable, do it outside on a relatively calm day and you should be fine. And NO SMOKING........

Smoke will get sucked into the leaks with the car at idle, showing you where they are visually; propane or butane will cause a sudden jump in RPM's for the same reason..............

What gives you the impression that you have a vacuum leak?

Next time you need Porsche OEM parts, give board sponsor Sunset Porsche a call (toll free), they will probably surprise you with their pricing...........

I'm afraid you went in the wrong direction when you tried to epoxy cracked coil packs, which simply ain't gonna work. They will open up again.

Pull the coil packs; replace any they look even remotely bad; if they are all original to the car, you may want to just do them all.

The OEM design uses a composite impeller, which seems to harden and become brittle over time, eventually coming apart and strewing impossible to find or remove debris through the cooling system. These "bits" often plug small passages, leading to hot spots that can cause cracking in the heads or case. Obviously, you want to swap out the pump before this starts.

Aftermarket pumps use metal impellers, but these start to wobble, hitting the aluminum engine case wall and damaging it; so you don't want to go there either............