JFP in PA

Start by taking it to a qualified body shop and getting an estimate for both the damage you can see, and what is hidden.

It is nearly impossible to qutoe an accurate estimate based upon two pictures............

AOS= Air Oil Separator IMSB= Intermediate Shaft Bearing

Porsche uses water pumps with impellers made of a synthetic material that starts to bread up over extended periods of time. Aftermarket pumps with metal impellers tend to be shorter lived and tear up the block with the impeller gets loose with wear. Stay with the OEM pump, change it and the coolant at least every 4-5 years. At the same time, change your thermostat to a 160F unit.

The injector and the fuel pump are on different electrical circuits, if the pump shorts out, it has no electrical effect on any of the injectors. You have an issue on the injector circuit, not the pump circuit.

I have to agree with Logray here, if there was a problem with the system, it would throw codes and cause running issues. And knowing how much replacement components cost, I wouldn't be randomly applying voltage to see what happens unless the system is already acting up and throwing codes, you may not like what happens next.............

P1225-1230 are all "short to ground in wiring" codes for the fuel injectors by cylinder numbers, so I am not convinced it is a fuel pump issue.

You can quickly check the fuel pump by following the factory test procedure for correct pressure and delivery volume by connecting a test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail; but the codes are going to require running electrical tests on the injectors and the injection wiring looking for a short to ground somewhere in the system...........

You should also note that Porsche lists the specific amount of system oil to expect to have to replace when working on these systems; each compomponent has an amount of lubricant retained that needs to be accounted for during the recharge.

Your oil system is normally running under a vacuum condition of about five inches of water; it has to be air tight.

Why are you even considering shipping it, sounds to me like a lovely weekend drive down the

Pac Coast Highway is in your future..................A trip a I have some very fond memories of........................

After you select the vehicle, you should see a page that has a left panel that displays various control modules, if tire pressure is supported on that vehicle, it will be listed there. Click on the "+" symbol next to "tire pressure", and it should display what functions are available for the vehicle. If tire pressure is not listed for the vehicle you have selected, it is not supported in the software version that you have. On page 8 of the attached manual, you will see the list of modules supported on a 05-09 997, which shows the tire pressure function:

http://www.durametric.com/Durametric_Software_Instruction_Manual.pdf

Not all control modules, or individual module functions are supported for all models and years, each update seems to add more, but everything is not yet supported.................

Both the inside and outside door opening handles are mechanical; not electronic. We have seen door handles that did not work when the mechanisim broke or became disconnected, but that did not involve the window or mirrors. We got the door open by dropping a wire down into the door alongside the window to trip the release.

The only way to reset the service indicator is either a PIWIS or Durametric system, nothing else works..............

My survey of the dealers and independent shops shows there are less than a dozen cars down here with the hybrid bearings. If you multiply the cost of a bearing by 4000 supposed users..... you have at least $2million 400 thousand in sales. Do you believe that?

Yes. LN's owner openly and quite willingly shares the data he has with anyone that asks for it.......................

If you are going to use the drain plug, you may as well just pull it and drain the system; you should replace the crush washer every time the plug is loosened, which is why dumping the filter was suggested as an alternative..............

Watch which Pentosin, factory specs the CHF 11S (full synthetic) for these cars, and Pentosin tech literature states “If vehicle specifications state CHF 11.S there is no substitute, however, if vehicle specifications state CHF 7.1, CHF 11.S can be substituted.” Pentosin CHF 7.1 is mineral oil based. Pentosin CHF 202 should only be used in 2005 and later Cayennes.

A handy Pentosin PDF application guide: http://pentosin.net/...GUIDE3_Rev1.pdf

Most NAPA stores now carry Pentosin products................

I was reading some of the other threads and they used a device to pump it out of the fill tube? Is that an option with these cars?

Not really, there is too much stuff (baffles and air separators) in the way; there was a recent post where an owner tried to do this, could not get the hose down to the oil level, but did manage to get the hose stuck in the engine, requiring a flat bed to the shop where the sump cover was removed to get the hose out.

If the engine is slightly overfilled, change the oil filter which will remove a bit less than a quart from the system. If it is way over filled, just drain it and start over again. In any case, do not run the car with excessive oil in it, it can get sucked backwards thru the AOS and smoke like Hell, or even lead to a hydro lock and a dead engine. Fix it..............

If the PSM system is not cycled, a very tiny amount of old fluid may remain in the control unit, but even that will be flushed out by all the new fluid circulation in the system after a change out and normal usage. Just for a reference point, many dealer's do not cycle the PSM system during a system flush; it simply is not necessary unless air has gotten into the control network, and the amount of oil fluid it extracts is not meaningful.

Near 60K would be a worthwhile time frame to do the water pump; which also provides a great opportunity to flush out the old coolant, up date to a 106F thermostat, and add the "S" oil cooler if the car is a base model (best $200 you can spend on these cars).

Also since my car doesn't have the traction control I should be able to use the Motive Power Bleeder and get a complete brake flush.

You can use the Motive system on any Porsche; activation of the ABS/PSM system is only needed if you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control system..................

A TSB does not necessarily compel an OEM to do anything or to repair a car free of charge, unless the system involved was already covered under a warranty, and the warranty on the vehicle is still valid. It is an announcement of a change or update in how something is to be done (e.g.: part # XXX is now superseded by part # YYY), it is not a recall, so the new part will not be installed until the old part needs to be replaced. If the vehicle is out of warranty, all the TSB does is change how they would go about fixing it, but the owner would still have to pay the going service rate plus parts

Thanks Loren and JFP. I did check the belt, it seems fine. So, I hope maybe the pulley... Although it may not change the bottom line: replace the alternator. Any word of advice on towing?

Thanks for your thoughts!

If it is the pulley, the pulley is one Hell of a lot cheaper than a replacement alternator.......................

I'd also check the alternator to see if it has the de-clutching style pulley, which can also make quite a bit of a racket when it craps out and can leave the alternator unable to put out enough voltage.

I'd wager that the codes are for RKAT values would indicate an overly lean O2 codes for banks 1 & 2 at idle.

there clean can do them up by hand so the surfaces are nicely together then torque them. my concern is that the feel very stiff to the point of if i move them up or down they will turn the crankshaft

They should not be this tight, go back and recheck the rod and crank sizes as well as clean out the threaded areas.

You need to carefully run a thread chaser through all threaded items, followed by a blast for clean compressed air to be sure the threaded areas are totally clean before any assembly is possible. If you have not done this, go back and do it, otherwise you will get all sorts of erroneous torque readings.

Did you run a thread chaser through the rod bolt holes first to be sure they are clean?

then that is even tighter than what i'm doing them up and they are quite stiff already is that normal with new shells and bolts

Yes, but it begs a question: Are you torquing them dry or lubed?

Logray also has a point about checking the big ends for roundness after bench torquing them, as well as checking the crank.