JFP in PA

You might be surprised, we have had factory cars come in with this type of complaint and found O2 sensors that were either finger tight, or partially unscrewed. A quick tightening was all that was required to silence the noise.

If your fuel pump ever does decide to start whistling, you will be in trouble because they simply do not do that.

Are you sure that you properly torqued the new o2 sensors when you installed them? Very small exhaust leaks can whistle. I'd put the car up in the air and cold start it while looking and listening where you think it is coming from..........

they said they had a porsche engine specialist in to pick up something. the reason they gave is that there is that slight gap that i took a photo of. they said that the rods are stretched because there is that gap and with cracked rods there would fit together with absolutely no gap

While I hate to cast aspersions on shops I do not personally know, I really don't like what I am hearing. They have determined that a rod is stretched based upon looking at it? Sorry; no sale................. There are ways to detect rod stretch and twist; looking at them (unless the problem is really dramatic) is not one that I would trust. You should also never be testing the rod for correctness with the bolts finger tight.

You rods could be bad, but without measurement data, I would suggest getting them properly checked.

It is impossible to say if the rods are good or not by just looking at pictures. They need to be Magafluxed, checked for center line to centerline, twist, bearing and wrist pin bores tested for roundness and size, etc., etc. Any competent machine shop can do that for you. At a minimum, they will need new bolts (you never reuse rod bolts in these engines).

If your current machine shop cannot explain why you need new rods, I would think you actually need a new rmachine shop…………

_{You didn't say anything about the battery; load test it, check the terminals for corrosion and clean if necessary, check the cables for resistance, replace if necessary..............}

If you really wanted to get cute, you can heliarc a fitting into the top of your oil cooler and get temperature and/or pressure readings; or as shown use it to feed an Accusump unit...........

How bad they are, and which ones are the worst often vary from car to car, but I am yet to see a coolant temp unit that was anywhere near correct...............

Not very................. The sensor section in these car are fine in terms of accuracy, it is the dash displays that are questionable. OBD II/Durametric/PIWIS/PST II all read the sensor.

I would connect the Motive unit to the car empty, pump it up to about 10-12 PSIG, and then start squirting or use a small brush to coat each and every one of the connections on the unit with a mixture of dishwashing soap and water; one or more of the connections should start blowing bubbles, and is become the focus to tighten until the bubbles stop. Once the leaks are corrected, the unit will be permanently repaired.

Yes, you can go the "two man route" and keep opening, refilling and capping the brake reservoir, but it is time consuming as Hell compared to using the Motive unit, and dramatically increases the possibility of spilling brake fluid on a painted surface. I'd fix the Motive unit and be done with it, we have used Motive units in the shop for years; they work quickly and efficiently, and are by far the best tool for the job.

To bad I couldn't rebuild it

myself. Can I?

Not really; requires special fixtures and tooling, simply not worth it.

The Motive unit is leaking, not your brakes. You need to go over the Motive unit carefully and find the leak (cap, seal, connections, etc.). If you had a hydrualic system leak, your brakes would not be "fine", they would not work properly, if at all..............

This is exactly why I always caution first time users of the Motive system, which is an excellent tool, to pressurize the system empty first to about 12-15 PSIG and make sure it is tight before filling the system with brake fluid.

So the natural question is do those COLD air intakes help? Would be nice if someone who has one could provide some log data.

From a stoichiometry as well as a volumetric efficiency perspective, the cooler and more consistent the incoming air charge, the better off the power output should be. But this runs into several large caveats along the way, such as where is the intake charge temp measured, how much of the actual engine intake runner system is allowed to heat soak, and how fast the intake charge is moving. As there is a huge mass of heat soaked intake system, as well at the throttle body itself due to its location, quite often these ultra slick looking cold air systems add absolutely nothing to the car other than more noise.

I am curious to know what the line (graduation) between 180 and 250 is in degrees.

My 996 has never gotten to the middle line. I don't think anything to the left of that line would be

considered "over heating." Water boils at 212 deg f and under pressure even higher.

You need to remember that the dash gauge in these cars is both non-linear as well as grossly inaccurate to begin with. Rather than trying to finely increment what is known to be questionable to begin with, plug an OBD II scanner with PID catalog capability into the port under the dash and read the real temperatures……

You can buy a refurbished one at NAPA for one half the price of an

OEM pump. I did that after it was suggested that I don't because they don't last.

It was about economics. 4K later.... it is still working fine.

Amongst the many reasons we don’t use aftermarket pumps is simple customer satisfaction; far too many aftermarket units simply do not last and the car ends up coming back and either the shop or the customer ends up paying twice; the definition of “false economy.” Shops cannot afford this type of event, nor can the customers, particularly when buying the OEM pump for a few more bucks totally alleviates the chance of it. happening...................

Unless you have the correct equipment, this is a job for a pro. It could be any number of simple things (relay, sensors, etc.), but if the gas is low, the leak needs to be found and fixed before recharging it.

I have a 2002 C4S manual and was reading the latest issue of Excellence magazine and it was saying the 996 C4S is a good buy today except it mentioned that the waterpump should be changed every 40,000 miles. Can anyone shed some light on this for me, as to this water pump issue? It did have the normal RMS and IMS as potential problems that we all know about, but the water pump issue is something I never heard of before. It says the plastic vanes will sheer off and end up in the cooling system. Should I have a concern. I have 62,000 miles on mine.

Thanks

soutahc4s

This problem is well known; the M96/97 engines use a water pump with a plastic impeller assembly, which can fail over time, not only killing the pump, but filling very small water passages with small bits of debris which can significantly restrict water flow and cause engine killing hot spots to form:

While there are aftermarket pumps with metal impellers, they are even worse than the OEM design, so we do not even consider using them.

Loren, you are just too quick for me........................ :notworthy:

The electrical section or the switch is dying, easy DIY fix; part is about $10 or so over here. Very common problem, with many write ups with photos, so do a search.

What are you bitching about? You wanted a “hotter” engine, and now you have one that apparently makes heat when it isn’t even running……………… :jump:

Several years back, there were reports of the same code and conditions (not throttle) in cars still under warranty, which was traced to software issues in the DME. While some DME's were replaced, Porsche supposedly came up with a DME re-flash that cured the issue. Before jumping for a new DME, contact PCNA ands see if your car can be re-flashed, which has to be one Hell of a lot cheaper............

Unless I am mistaken, this was all covered on the RennTech forum, so I’d also do a search…………..

One that starts to open at 160F instead of 186F.

Thanks for the reply, i can go on a bit sometimes, but what i wanted to know was, will the light extinguish itself when the fault clears. I.E Can i take each wheel off & short the sensor cable out then check light until i find which sensor set is at fault.

Yes, the light will go out when the fault is removed.

First of all, in many states, more and more insurance companies are denying all diminished value claims; some are even requiring the insured party (you) to sign a waiver for any future claims as a pre requirement before issuing or renewing your policy. Their stance is that insurance is there to “make you whole”, and when the car is repaired, you are “whole” again, and diminished value claims are “enriching” you, not making you whole.

As for taking the other party to court, that is always your right, but be very prepared for a fight as I'm sure they will defer the claim to their insurance carrier, who has an entire building full of lawyers that are just waiting for this to happen..............

No one really likes the way insurance works, but these cases are rapidly becoming “test cases” for state insurance regulators.

If your dash lights start looking like a Christmas tree all lit up after driving a while, your alternator is probably going bad. The alternator on my '01 Boxster went bad at the 5 year mark. Remanufactured Porsche Boxster alternators are a lot more expensive than you would expect, so you might want to get it checked before it fails and look into having it rebuilt. Search here for more alternator threads

Have you checked your maintainer on another car/battery to see if that's the way the maintainer works? The original Porsche maintainer takes a long time to bring a battery to full charge, even with everything working right, whereas the CTEK and Battery Tender products are a lot quicker

unless bearings went bad the only thing that can break in alternator is a voltage regulator. $40 on ebay. 1-1.5 hours to take it out.

I thought Porsche maintainer is a CTEK maintainer (old versions) with Porshe sticker on it.

The very first Porsche maintainer (black in color) was not by Ctek, they came later.

no, I don't but would be interested in purchasing one. I like stuff like that. Is there a "best place" to get one? I usually look for things on Amazon.com first, but is this something that is more specialized and would need to be purchased elsewhwere?

edit:

I found this:

http://www.amazon.co...28279728&sr=8-1

$40 from amazon.com. is this reasonable or is there something better?

Be very careful about online PIWIS clones, while some are actually ripped off copies of early versions of the real software, many are early versions of the Durametric (or other non useful software). Porsche takes a really dim view of people that sell copies what they see as their intellectual property, and tend to come down very hard on them.

While a real PIWIS system lease is way outside the price range of all but the most dedicated individuals (well north of $15,000 for the first year), the Durametric software and cable is very good, reasonably priced at about $300, and affords you all future updates as well.

Just a thought..............