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JFP in PA

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Posts posted by JFP in PA

  1. I'm not really sure what you are referring to as "an anti drain back collar", but if you are using the OEM design cartridge filter, it would be well worth your while looking at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211:

    1363_1.gif

    The filter media has a pore diameter about 30% smaller the the OEM cartridge, and uses molded plastic end caps that totally ecapsulate the filter media rather than being butt glued to treated paper end caps as the OEM's are. A terrific performing filter at about half the price of the OEM filters.

    If you are using one of the LN spin on adaptors, Wix/NAPA Gold also makes an excellent spin on using the same small pore filter media in their 51042 unit. Based upon their overall quality and performance, we use and recommend Wix/NAPA Gold oil and air filters for our customer's Porsches.

    • Upvote 2
  2. I have an Actron CP9135 AutoScanner with OBDII capability. Can I reset my air bag warning light with this device? Is it basically the same device as those mentioned above? I replaced my original steering wheel last week with a nicer one and the light came on when I restarted the car.

    No. The only way to clear the air bag light is with a PIWIS or the Durametric system; no other aftermarket unit will do it.

  3. Problem with cleaning up an intermix is that each one is different, so they are typically quoted on a “time and materials” basis; it could be a couple hundred dollars, or a lot more depending upon how long the car was run in that condition, which makes the clean up much more difficult, plus time and materials consuming………..

  4. We generally replace the serpentine belts whenever we are doing any work that requires releasing it, regardless of how the belt looks. On a mileage basis, we swap them out at around 30K miles, purely as a precautionary measure. The belt is cheap, usually less than $30 retail, and easy to replace. On the other hand, loosing it can strand you, or could end up costing you an engine. On an 8 year old car, I would definitely replace it. I would also suggest carrying the used belt in the boot as a spare, as a replacement can sometimes be hard to find quickly at 2AM...........

  5. If you are using a top quality full synthetic oil of an appropriate viscosity, aftermarket additives’ are a total waste of money. Most are short term “band-aid” products that do little if anything good. Some can actually have a negative effect on the oil itself.

  6. I'm with you with the oil, no kidding there but I add 1 liter every 3000km so by the time the car hits the 20'000km maintenance interval almost 7 out of the 9 liters of oil the car has are relatively new so I cannot imagine a big issue with a high quality oil. Nevertheless of course it makes sense to change the oil more often...

    Do your self, and your car, an enormous favor: Next oil change, send out a sample of your "relatively new" oil for analysis; then you will understand why this does not work; and why you should be changing out all the oil sooner...............

  7. You should be thinking more in the direction of shortening the intervals. UOA's on oils show that they do not have a prayer for making 15K miles, the oil is sheared to death, the additive package is long dead, the oil is contaminated with all sorts of crud (dirt, fuel, acids, etc.).

    Using a really good full synthetic (no, I am not going to engage in an oil brand/weight war, so don't even think about it), the best you are going to get before the oil is toast is in the realm of 5-7K miles. Change it more frequently, not less..............

  8. I would not buy the cats both dying at the same time until you fix the air injection system and the car stays free of the associated codes. If the cat codes come back, then you may have a cat issue, but I have never seen both cats go out simultaneously; they don’t crap out all that often one at a time, much less both of them at once. But if the cat codes do return, without the air injection codes, they are probably toast.

  9. If an O2 sensor is ever in question, there are a series of pass/fail electrical test for the sensor and its heater that should be done before replacing them. If the sensor passes, there is nothing wrong with it, the issue lies elsewhere.

    P0420 and 0430 indicate that the three way cats on both banks are bad, which is very odd to say the least as they rarely die, much less do it in unison. Add in the codes for issues with the secondary air injection system, which will impact the cat’s performance, and I would say they appear connected. The air injections system on these cars is infamous for all sorts of issues ranging from component failure (particularly the change over valve), to blocked air lines (easy to fix), vacuum leaks, to totaled air pumps. While none of this stuff is exactly cheap, and entirely new secondary air system, installed by the slowest and most outrageously priced Porsche dealer on Earth, is not going to set you back what the three way cats are going to do. And replacing the cats is not going to fix the secondary air issue.

    Do some searching and look into the air system, it ain’t happy……….

  10. Congratulations on spending both time and money on the wrong things. P0420 and 0430 point to three way cat conversion being too low on both cylinder banks; they have nothing to do with the O2 sensors performance.

    P0410 and 1411 indicate the secondary air injection system failure (P0410 indicates the air injection pump is not triggering, P1411 likewise indicates the secondary air pump is not working properly due to air line restriction, failed change over valve or vacuum leaks). I would be willing to bet all of the codes are related to the secondary air system malfunction.

    Don’t dread codes, be thankful for them and research what they are telling you; while they point you in the correct direction much like a compass; they require an application of diagnostic logic for them to get you to your destination, much as a GPS would……………

  11. Like most OEM's Porsche prefers to refill these systems under vacuum to eliminate any air pockets, which can be very problematic in alloy cased and headed engines. Some DIY'ers say that you can do it without vacuum, but the vacuum system leak tests the entire system, refills the system, prevents any retained air, does it all in about 5 min., and does not require any future coolant level top up, so it is hard to argue with. We use vacuum on literally everything that comes through the shop. We premix the Porsche OEM coolant (only) with equal amounts of distilled water (only), then refill the system.

    The vacuum tool will cost you about $100, as long as you do not buy it from Porsche...........

  12. Hi,

    I am having problem disconnecting the air inlet tube from the throttle body. This is the tube connecting

    the air filter and the throttle body. This is a 1999 Boxster.

    It's a simple connection that the tube is connected to the throttle body by the adjustable clamp. I loosen the clamp but I just couldn't remove the tube from the throttle body. It's a big and wide tube.

    Does anyone know if there is any tool that I can use to remove the tube? This is my first step to remove

    the throttle body for cleaning. If I can't do this, I might as well forget about the whole thing.

    Thanks for your helps.

    The flex conenctor has taken a "heat set" to the metal on the throttle body. When we get one of these, patients and a little persuasion in usually all that is required.................

  13. To fit the larger cross-drilled “S” rotors, you will need different calipers as well as the rotors, as the rotors are both larger in diameter, but are also thicker as well. The base calipers will not work. Fitting the “S” rotors to the rear is even more problematic as you would need to swap out the suspension carrier hubs as well as the rotors and calipers, which is both time consuming and expensive.

    As for some “online kit” that uses an adaptor under the caliper to space it outward for a larger diameter rotor, well that sounds like a death wish waiting to happen……

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