JFP in PA

Pre filling the oil filter, OEM style canister or spin on, is always a good idea, shortens the time until the engine first develops oil flow and pressure on start up.

You seem to like posting responses as comments to my profile, which are unfortunately being truncated so I cannot see everything you write. Either post here on the forum or send me a PM so I can read everything you have to say.

Thanks.

I really don’t see the relevance to this tread as the oil pump is on the other end of the engine from the oil cooler…………….

Page 69 of Diagnosis to 45 for Boxster 986 says +/- 4 degrees. Interesting.

I think a couple of things changed; originally, the early five chain motors were +/- 4 degrees, and were pretty good at meeting and holding the range. The switch to the three chain design and the later VarioCam Plus seems to cause more cam deviation, so the value was moved. In reality, early or late motors seem to do just fine as long as they stay within the +/- 6 range, so a lot of dealers and shops started using that as the “default” range for everything.

There isn't a top and bottom to the filter, right? I know it probably sounds a bit obsessive, but just want to make sure. Main reason for doing this stuff (in addition to fun) is to ensure that everything is done correctly.

The OEM style filter is symmetrical and can go in either way.

Glad you got it sorted out.

As far as I know, all M96/97 engines are +/- 6 degrees.

Low voltage may or may not throw a code. Sometimes a dying alternator will trigger ABS and PSM MIL’s, but not always. I am also not comfortable with any voltage readings below 14V at idle.

I’d suggest load testing both the battery and alternator; the sequence only last a couple of min., but will confirm the viability of both units.

I'm working with a friend on his MY00 Boxster S that recently had a LN IMS Upgrade by a qualified Indy. The mechanic did not use the Camshaft lock tools that came with the kit. What if any should we be concerned with or be looking for to determine any faults with this installation? Can Durametric read any Actual Values that might help?

Thanks in advance!

Normally, we like to run a profile on the Durametric prior and post installation; just to verify that the cams are were they belong.

The car in question is a five chain motor, which is more tolerant of IMS bearing install screw ups, but not immune. Logray is on the money as far as looking at the cams, but if you have access to a Durametric, I would hook it up and look at the cam deviation values, both of which should be rock steady and idle and +/- 6 degrees. The actual values are always an odd set of numbers, but they need to be in that +/- 6 degree range. The Durametric is a much quicker and a very accurate way to check this out.

In the future, if an Indy suggests "we don't need no cam locking tools", run…………..

I want to get a code reader for my 06 C2S. I know nothing about them and have never used one. I searched here and Rennlist but all posts seemed to be fairly dated, given the fast pace of technology. I'd like to be able to know what a given fault code means and delete the code once the problem is fixed. In a perfect world I could use it on other cars, but I gather that's not possible with these tools (unless one buys additional modules for the AutoEnginuity). From the very little research I've done so far, my first impression is that the Durametic is best for this. It will reset the Service code and AutoEnginuity won't at this time (they're working on a software update for this). The disadvantage of Durametic is that the Enthusiast package only allows 3 VINs, ever! AutoEnginuity seems to be more expensive because one has to buy the base tool plus the Porsche module, and software updates are $50 whereas Durametric's updates are free. For those who have researched/have some experience with these and others, what do you recommend?

If you find the three VIN’s limiting, look at Durametric’s Pro version; it has no limits. For general purposes, we use Actron’s OBDII units, which can read and clear most codes on just about any brand, even on Porsche’s, with the exception of what PCNA call “protected code areas” such as the PSM/PASM, ABS, Airbags, and even the service alert. For those, you either need a Durametric system (we use the Pro version), or a PIWIS. We looked into acquiring a PIWIS, but when we found out that the first years lease was in the $17K range, we opted to add another bay and lift to the shop instead. The AutoEnginuity rep keeps trying to get us to take one of their units, but both the economics and its lack luster performance compared to the Durametric keep ending the conversation.

As could the reflash; I'd take that back to stock as well to see what happens....................

Several possibles: Level sensor leak, pressure sensor leak, oil cooler leak, etc. Best bet is to clean off the engine, then look for where it starts.......

If it came off easily, you are fine.

We have never seen this type of repair last either. You also need to consider where the tank is cracked; sometimes it is necessary to remove the tank to see or attempt to repair the crack, making a temporary repair a little ridiculous..........

Do an online search yourself, you can get a new one here, online, for about $60-70:

+1 That is the center hub of the clutch type pulley, which can and do fail as you described. You will need the special tool, a new pulley, and belt, and you will be back in business....

I'm not sure about there being a common junction for the wiring, as the signal and heater wiring serve different purposes I would expect not; but there are diagnostics to check for the sensor signal and heater voltage using a multimeter. I'd be running them before spending more money on sensors....

I seriously doubt that replacing the O2 sensors will fix this; two of the codes (0154 and 1119) are telling you that there may be a wiring or connector issue in the O2 circuits:

P0154 is the code for the interruption of the signal from the senor ahead of the 3 way cat on bank 4-6.

P1119 is the code for a non functioning sensor heater.

Should be row D, fuse #5.

All Porsche's have had lighters that are "hot" at all times for many years specifically to accommodate using a battery maintainer connected there. If yours is not hot, check the fuse.

1. 1. The Ctek 3300 does get warm when it is charging, but cools when it gets to full charge. All Ctek units have built in overheat protection that will reduce output or shut the unit off.
   2. The fact that the mode control button does not move the setting to the car icon is a problem. Do either of the 1/2 battery or full battery indicator led's come on? You are supposed to connect the unit to the car first (cigarette lighter or alligator clips) then plug the unit in and try to set it to the car mode. If you cannot, it may be an indication that either you have a bad battery ground, poor cable connections at the battery, or the battery itself is defective.
   3. Your cigarette lighter should work with this unit; I currently have four cars running on them that way at the moment.
   4. Are any of the Ctek's led's flashing?

The windshields that cause interference (blockage) of radar signals use a thin metalized film imbedded between layers of the glass. Typically, these windscreens have a slightly golden metallic sheen if looked at on an angle in bright light. Because of the metallic film, the radar waves are reflected and never reach the detector mounted inside the vehicle. Several manufacturer's use this technology as they can pass a low voltage current through the entire glass surface rather than just in localized areas, improving the deicing.

If the heated windshield option uses this method, it will block the radar signal. I would also try driving an example at night as many have commented that oncoming low beam headlights tend to “halo” or “glare” more when this option is present.

The power steering systems in these cars suffer from a couple of issue; first, the reservoir volume is too small and in a location where it is seldom looked at (even worse in a Boxster or Cayman); and second, due to how the system is packaged, they tend to overheat.

Street cars typically do not suffer a lot of problems unless the steering reservoir was allowed to run dry. Track cars suffer a lot more due to accumulated heat. In either case, once steering pump noise or issues develop from heat and/or low fluid levels, nothing can be done to save it, component replacement is on the horizon as the pumps are not easily rebuilt (lack of parts availability).

Employing an external cooler is a good move for someone into serious track use, as noted by another poster. Changing fluids to another manufacturer is questionable as these systems use a lot of seals that can be adversely affected by the wrong fluid type.

If you are committed to buying the car, I would get a couple of quotes for replacing the pump and rack, and factor that into the offer.

I was under the impression that you only needed to bleed with pst2 or piwis if you have TC or PSM and I don't

I have only bleed the brakes with a power bleeder and pumped the pedal Not with PST2

Will that resolve the issue

Regards

Ross

If you have ABS, you need the PST II/PIWIS because you probably have gotten air into the ABS control system with the master cylinder swap out as the Motive system forces the air downward into the system...........

Normally, a bad AOS will have an unusually high vacuum in the sump. Try removing your oil filler cap with the engine running, it it is difficult to get off, you have a bad AOS.