JFP in PA

That I do not know.

The designates that the car is in the "S" model trim:

Carrera 3.6L 6 cyl 345 hp/288 lb-ft

Carrera S 3.8L 6 cyl 385 hp/310 lb-ft

The "S" is also the "wide body" car (rear fenders to clear larger tires) and sells for around $10K more than the regular car. For more, visit Porsche's website.

If you have a leak in the AC unit under the dash, any decent AC shop should be able to detect the gas (most now use electronic detectors that are very sensitive). If it is leaking, the under dash unit must be replaced..............

If the battery is draining but otherwise good, and there are no undo parasitic drains on the system, you probably have a problematic alternator. Check for electrical drains by putting a digital voltmeter set to current (mA) between the positive battery cable and the positive battery terminal. You should see something around 60 mA or less (normal current draw). If it is higher, something is pulling current out while the car is parked. You can locate the circuit by pulling the fuses one at a time until you see the draw drop into its nominal value; the fuse you just pulled is the problem circuit.

As for the alternator, you can use the same meter to check the voltage output at idle, should be 14.3V or so. If it is below 14V, you probably need a new voltage regulator for the alternator (same regulator is used in Audi, Mercedes, and VW cars, so you should be able to locate one).

I would say yes, and not just because we do PPI's. When spending an amount that one of these is going to set you back, you want to know as much as possible about the car, even if it carries a CPO. Percentage wise, it is a small investment in peace of mind. If nothing else, an independant PPI may provide "tie breaker" facts between two similar cars, such as a DME read out of how many times the car has been to the rev limiter. PPI's have also proven to be handy negotiation tools when it comes to price...... If there is nothing to hide, no dealer should be hesitant about a PPI.

The electrical section of the switch is a $15 item and a simple DIY project to replace. There is no real way to test it other than replace it. Do a quick search, you will find several "how to's" as this is a comon item.

The mixture codes may simply be "ghost" codes caused by a lack of adaption values in the DME. I would clear the codes using something like the Durametric, or any OBDII scanner, and drive the car for a bit before doing anything else. The mixture codes may come back again, so be prepeared for one more "reset" before taking them seriously.

Year and model information is always helpful……….

Possible issues are the ignition switch (always a favorite) and/or a bad battery cable or connection.

1. Do not even think about repairing it; it will not hold.
2. This is why you have insurance; I'll bet if you check, your comprehensive policy will cover this repair, much like getting a windshield replaced after a rock hit.

Let me guess: your mechanic cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery.......

P1602 is the code for memory loss of the DME adaption values. Usual suspects: Wiring issues at terminal 30, battery was disconnected, DME was unplugged.

P1123 and 1125 are the codes for both banks being so rich that the DME cannot compensate. Usually this is caused by high fuel pressure or leaking injectors; but as it seems to have happened just after the AOS was changed out, it may just be the lack of adaptation values (running time) on the DME.

If your mechanic did clear the codes by using the battery, first you need a new mechanic. That is not how you clear codes. Take the car to a shop with either a Durametric system or a PST II/PIWIS unit, re-read the codes and then have them cleared. If there really is a fuel issue, the 1123/25 codes will return without the 1602 code after the DME has relearned the adaptation values, which will require you to drive the car for a bit.

The fans are controlled by an algorithm in the DME and work in unison. The fans have two speeds, one for just cooling, and another faster speed for cooling/air conditioning. Regardless of which speed they are running at, both fans should be turning at the same speed. The DME triggers them for cooling by monitoring the coolant temps, the AC speed is triggered by the AC system engaging the compressor.

Temps should not really effect the output, and the voltage loss between the altenator and battery could be a bad cable.

It should still be over 14V..............

A PIWIS is the Porsche diagnostic computer system, mandatory for many types of work on these cars. When the fuel level sensor is replaced, they are supposed to run the level calibration diagnostic, otherwise the fuel gauge will not read correctly. Even a prolonged disconnect of the battery can require this calibration. I would suggest you get the car checked out by someone with the correct equipement.

With an actual load tester, you can see the diodes "ripple" under load, confirming everything is correct. With a problematic alternator, usually the alternator starts dropping diodes pretty quickly (within seconds) under load.

When your fuel gauge was replaced, did they perform the fuel system level calibration with a PIWIS? This requires totally draining the tank, installing and checking the new gauge, and then putting measured amounts of fuel in the tank to test and set its calibration......................... If they did not, there may be nothing wrong with the gauge itself.

Along with voltage testing, we also like to test the alternator's response under load conditions. While we use a load tester for this, you can do the same thing by turning on the high beams and other electrical loads while monitoring the alternator's voltage response.

One point often overlooked on header pipe and collector sizes is the fact that you can go too big, which tends to move the torque curve up in the RPM curve, reducing the car's drivability. When the tubes get too big, the velocity of the exhaust gases actually begin to slow down, reducing the lower RPM cylinder scavenging effect, causing the perceived loss of low end response. Don't go nuts, as "size really does matter", and there is a "too big"................

+1 on Loren’s comment. We have also seen similar random electrical problems with ignition switches on the way out, which is a very cheap DIY fix.

Loren and kbrandsma are spot on; we pressure test caps and entire systems just about everyday, you pay by the amount of diagnostic time required. The cap costs less than the time it takes to properly test it.....

More likely a burnt resistor on the right fan, easily replaceable.

Think of the torque converter as being like a squat bottle lying on it side, with the neck of the bottle protruding into the transmission. The fluid level below the neck, nearly ½ the total volume of the rather large diameter converter, is not going to drain by gravity while the trans is in the car. This is why you have to pump oil into the converter, or pull the trans out and turn the converter upside down to fully drain it. Either way, the water contaminated fluid has to come out………

The oil supply and return may be a possibility, but I am not sure how you would connect to them and hold significant pressure during the fluid exchange, or if they would allow you to fully flush everything, including the converter which is where the major portion of the fluid resides........

Yes, with the Tip the dif oil and trans oil are kept separate (the dif uses a Hypoid gear oil).

Those large lines are the lines carrying coolant to and from the heat exchanger, which you can see in the right picture; there do not appear to be any external trans fluid lines on the Tip that you can easily connect to.