JFP in PA

Update

I was sufficiently perplexed by your comments concerning having external lines, that I got out the OEM service manuals for the Tip, and after reviewing them, asked a customer with a 2001 Boxster with a Tip to bring it by the shop so I could look at it (I can honestly say that we do not see that many Tips, but this has shown that I need to pay more attention to how they are set up). Here's were I now am on this topic…..

The only external lines you should have on the Tip are coolant lines that run engine coolant to the trans case below where the cooler mounts, and then return it to the engine from the other side. The coolant then enters the cooler from the bottom, as does the trans fluid (it is a closed, self contained heat exchanger unit,much like the engine oil cooler, but with out the air bleed line that goes from the top of the engine oil cooler to the coolant surge tank). All of the transmission fluid remains inside the cooler or the gearbox, there are no external fluid lines or connections:

So, at this juncture, I have to return to my original opinion in that I cannot see a way to easily connect an external transmission fluid exchange unit and pump fresh fluid through the system to remove the water contaminated fluid. This is not going to be easy……

If there are lines, you have a possible way to do this. I'd suggest doing some searching on how other OEM's that use the Tiptronic (VW, Audi, Mercedes, etc.) flush and purge these transmissions in their cars as which line the new fluid goes in, and at what pressure, is important. An OEM dealership that works on these transmissions may be able to do this for you as the hardware for fluid exchange systems is often in the $3-$5K range, and the adaptors to attach the exchange units are specific to each transmission.

I'm recovering from an intermix issue caused by a failed ATF cooler on a 2000 Boxster. Upon emptying the ATF and removing the pan and filter, it has become obvious that the lovely milkshake intermix is not easily removed. I have let it drain for a couple of days now with the filter removed, frequently wiping down the underside of the transmission, and it just keeps coming. Question is, is there a good way to "flush" out all of this milkshake out of the transmission?

This is not going to be easy. About half the contaminated fluid is in your torque converter, which does not fully drain by pulling the pan. Ideally, you would want to use one of those pressurized flush through systems that may service centers use because clean fluid pushes out the contaminated. Unfortunately, I am not aware of any flush system that would work on your Tip because the aftermarket units connect via the ATF lines to the cooler, which your Tip does not have. You may want to talk to someone that rebuilds Porsche Tips such as Vertex.......otherwise it may have to come out.

On a Boxster the transmission and differential share the same case and oil. So changing the transmission oil changes the differential oil.

Loren, that is correct for manual gear boxes, but not for a Tip. On a Tip, the differential is separate and holds a little less than a quart of 75W-90 Hypoid gear oil. There is a "how to" for doing it in the Bentley manual for the Boxster (and I should comment that it is messy as you need to undo the side cover, remove the drive axel and flange, because there is no drain plug on the unit).

Alternator voltage sound OK. Just a by-the-by, voltage is not how you check the battery, the best method is a load test (current output over time), which requires the use of a device designed for the purpose.

One more question: is it ok to run the engine with the ATF pan and filter removed (trying to get some distilled water into the coolant system to begin the flushing process)?

Absolutely not!

Along with load testing the new battery (would not be the first dud new battery I have seen), I would also check your alternator output (should be slightly over 14V and idle).

Accoding to the people that make it (Ross-Tech), " Although Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG have taken steps to merge, Porsche still does diagnostics quite differently than VW so VCDS does not do OEM diagnostics on most Porsche systems. However, we've heard good things about Durametric's Diagnostic Tool for Porsche. "

The Durametric system will also give you access to most of the “proprietary code areas” in the DME that other OBD II systems cannot even see, much less deal with.

You can "Google" torque converter or PDK to get a full explanation of how each works, it would take forever to explain it in a post.

.As for which is the "best", that is a more loaded question. The PDK is the current state of the art sequential manual gear box controlled by a computer and using two "wet" clutches (one for the even numbered gears, the other for the odd and reverse). As it uses mechanical gears and clutches, there is less parasitic losses and way faster and firmer shifting. It is the same transmission technology used in current Formula 1 cars. The Tip is a recent design update to the automatic transmissions found in just about everything since the 1950's, and has considerable horsepower loss due to how it operates. Both the Tip and the PDK can be set to shift on their own (automatically), but as the PDK is newer tech, it can also be set via the computer for maximum launch, etc.

On the dark side, the Tip is well known, used by Mercedes, Audi and VW; so service and the like is out there. The PDK being new, is currently dealer only service, and even then the dealer's tend to try software updates before replacing the trans when problems set in because Porsche has limited parts availability and the design of the gear box requires significant special tooling and fixtures to work on them. Not really an issue while the car is under warranty, but are you ready to spring for a $15K+ gear box once the warranty runs out.............

Loren is correct, it is part of the oil level sensor unit.

Jake is correct. Some cars built in 2005 have the "final solution" IMS that cannot be changed without splitting the cases (total disassembly of the engine). Neither build dates nor serial numbers have proven to be accurate. The only way to know for sure which IMS is in a 2005 car is to pull the flywheel and look at it. As unpalatable as this is, it is an unfortunate fact of life. All 2006 on are definitely non serviceable, as are earlier model cars that had an engine change after around mid to late 2005.

It is a VW/Audi diagnostic system.

I have never seen a cooler leak to the outside, but internal intermixing is not uncommon; usually if it has oil on the outside of it, the oil came from somewhere else. You can always pull the cooler and pressure test it (be sure to use new orings) to make sure it is OK. As they only cost about $200 or so brand new, they are not worth trying to repair.

Probably a couple dozen or so over the years. It is a fairly well known issue.

Oil and coolant does not mix, it forms an emulsion, like hot chocolate or salad dressing in consistency.

Not good. First, stop running the car. Question now should be where is the source? Could be the oil cooler, which is an easy fix; but if it isn't, it goes exponentially downhill from there...........

+1 on the clutch interlock switch as the issue. And just as a by-the-way, Porsche did not make an S Boxster until 2000..................

Problem is that there are many reasons why you could get the combination of lights on, without the codes, you would be going on a guess…………

Run a leak down test on the bad cylinder to see if there are any mechancial issues (bad valve, head gasket, etc.)................

Without scanning the car and looking at the codes, any suggestions would be a guess. Get the codes.

If the plug in #5 is not bad, it is probably either the coil pack or the coil pack connector. Try moving the suspect coil to another cylinder, if the code moves with it, you need a new coil.

Unless I'm mistaken, you cannot sell or trade in a car with an emissions issue in CA unless the vehicle is going to be scrapped, so fixing it may not be an option.............

What you want is a tool that looks like this:

These tools can separate the ends without damage, unlike the old "pickle fork" and hammer approach............ You can find this at just about any auto parts outlet, or Harbor Freight.

So I have 4/5 readiness monitors good, except for that secondary air system fail. If California requires 3/5, I should be ok then right? My durametrics isn't picking up any CEL codes, immediate or pending. What is the screen cap that Loren posted? Is that from a smog computer or something?

On a cold start, I don't hear any fans coming on.

If you do not hear a "fan-like" sound ion cold start (which is actually the SAI pump kicking in), that is probably the root of your "not ready" issue. What you might want to do is listen to another car on cold start that is acting normally.

The SAI blows air into the exhaust during cold start to offset the slightly rich start up mixture conditions and keep the car within emissions specs. If yours is not making the fan-like sound, yours is not working properly. Common failure points in the SAI is the electric change over valve and general crud build up in the system.

Try triggering the SAI system and see what the Durametric says..................