JFP in PA

So I have 4/5 readiness monitors good, except for that secondary air system fail. If California requires 3/5, I should be ok then right? My durametrics isn't picking up any CEL codes, immediate or pending. What is the screen cap that Loren posted? Is that from a smog computer or something?

On a cold start, I don't hear any fans coming on.

If you do not hear a "fan-like" sound ion cold start (which is actually the SAI pump kicking in), that is probably the root of your "not ready" issue. What you might want to do is listen to another car on cold start that is acting normally.

The SAI blows air into the exhaust during cold start to offset the slightly rich start up mixture conditions and keep the car within emissions specs. If yours is not making the fan-like sound, yours is not working properly. Common failure points in the SAI is the electric change over valve and general crud build up in the system.

Try triggering the SAI system and see what the Durametric says..................

Probably not. What specific codes are you getting, and what is the year and model of your car?

That's what I was thinking...................

Yes as long as there are no faults.

In some cases the airbag and airbag controller must be replaced. And in 2002 and newer Porsches the seatbelts have to be replaced as they are pyrotechnic driven and fire only once.

Loren, aren't the wiring harness connection for the DME's different on some 986's and 987's?

An interesting post regarding the airbag light...

http://forums.rennli...01-post217.html

While I have no idea what acutally went on with this thread, I have to agree with Loren: Air bag MIL's do not reset themselves, and only a PST II, PIWIS, or a Durametric system can reset and clear them.

Do you have a low temp thermostat? This is totally a guess but something like that might confuse the computer for stuff like whether the car has completed a full driving cycle.

Cars with the LN 160 stat reset after a couple of drive cycles without issue................

Somewhere between one and one million miles. Seriously, there is literally no rhyme or reason to when or how these things fail. The early ones were more prone to crapping out than the later ones, due mainly to a redesign by Porsche. We recommend that customers replace them at opportune times when the process is quick and simple, like when the gear box is out to do a clutch.

No the cap came off fine no problem.

Will there be a check engine warning if the suction gets too high?

Possibly an AOS problem?

When your AOS fails, you do not need a warning light, just look in the rearview mirror: if it looks like you are spraying for insects behind you, your AOS is gone.............

Excellence magazine recently had an article about the AOS and showed how to test it with a manometer; which while all well and good, most knowledgeable techs just try to remove the oil filler cap while it is running

There should be a low vacuum under the oil fill cap; these are low tension ring motors and require a slight vacuum in the cases to help control oil and blow by gasses. If the vacuum becomes very high (hard to nearly impossible to remove the oil cap while idling), it is a sign of a failing AOS.

You will probably be fine; as I mentioned, this is a common issue.

Quick question: Did this code trip just after filling the tank? Reason I ask is that the early cars seem more prone to throw this code after a fill up, and when that happens the code is usually a “ghost” code caused by a momentary purge line blockage during the filling process. If it was, clear the code and it most likely will not come back, at least until your next fill up. If the code comes back, see below.

Normally, if the P0446 code is thrown, it is caused by a blockage if the air purge line in the EVAP system. This code can often be corrected by simply blowing air through the purge line, which is in the engine bay, under the intake manifold. A bit of a pain in the butt to get at, but a quick “pffft” of compressed air will take care of the issue.

If memory serves, Mike Focke has some sources listed on his site:

Mike's website

Dear all

Probably a 996 universal topic but put it in the 996TT section anyway. Noted today that my AC is not working. When I got home I found out that the magnetic clutch does not engage. Outer pulley runs but does not engage the AC. I checked all fuses, all ok, checked the power cable, ok too.

Do the magnetic clutches just fail sometimes? Or do you have another idea?

Thanks

Ronny

These systems have multiple electronic sensors (high pressure, low pressure, high temperature, etc,) anyone of which can shut off the clutch on the compressor to prevent further damage to the system. Unless you have the tools and knowledge to diagnose and service this system, you would be better off taking the car to someone that does. And do not try to just add more R134A with one of the cheap aftermarket fill kits; if the system already has the correct fill level, you will overfill it, and when you did get the compressor to run, you could end up doing some very expensive damage.

Castrol -- Porsche approved oils as of March 2011 (special thanks to Richard Hamilton).

Click to enlarge image

Loren, the Castrol Edge Pro listed is not yet available in North America, only Europe and the far east. That said, it is very interesting oil, which we hope will become available here.

I was using Syntec 5-40 but now Castrol has eliminated Syntec and has a new oil

called Edge in two versions - Edge with Syntec Technology and Edge Titanium.

I don't think they have a 5-40.

So, is 10-40 too heavy for the M96 engine?

I assume these oils are approved by Porsche..

Thanks

While we only have a handful of UoA's for the "new" Syntec (Castrol Edge with Syntec technology), so far it is looking pretty good compared to the old Syntec. And 10W-40 is the standard oil we use a lot of M96/97 engines year round, so you will be fine. You should also note that the old Syntec 10W-40 out performed the old Syntec 5W-40, particularly in its ability to stay in grade under high heat/high shear conditions.

Your best option is a very short double box wrench, I have a Craftsman wrench that is about 3" in length that works perfectly for this; pull the rubber cap off the bleeder, put the wrench on the fitting, then the drain tube. This way you can crack open the fitting with the wrench on it in the limited space available. Tighten the fitting when you are done, and remove the tools in reverse order.

Thank you, very helpful. I got the fitting loose and was able to drain it. I had someone hold the clutch pedal in for about 30 seconds, then pumped it a few times until all bubbles were clear and then tightened and was done. Is that about right?

As long as it was being "pumped" with the bleeder closed, yes.

Your best option is a very short double box wrench, I have a Craftsman wrench that is about 3" in length that works perfectly for this; pull the rubber cap off the bleeder, put the wrench on the fitting, then the drain tube. This way you can crack open the fitting with the wrench on it in the limited space available. Tighten the fitting when you are done, and remove the tools in reverse order.

A quick caveat before we get started: Multiple codes can become a bit of an "Easter egg hunt" as two different codes alone may indicate two separate issues; but the same two codes appearing together may indicate a third and totally different issue.

That said:

P0150 indicates a short in the wiring for the O2 sensor ahead of the cat on cylinder bank 4-6.

P1128 & 1130 indicates that the O2 sensors have reached their limit of enrichment (overly lean conditions) P1128 for bank 1-3; P1130 for bank 4-6.

P1123 & 1125 indicates that the o2 sensors have reached their lean limit (overly rich conditions) P1123 for bank 1-3; 1125 for bank 4-6.

P1689 says the DME has a memory fault.

Obviously, you cannot be incurring both an overly lean and overly rich condition in both banks at the same time. I really think the main issue is the P1689 code. You can test the function of the O2 sensors individually just to verify they are OK, but I'd be looking at either a wiring issue (the P0150 code) to the DME or the control unit itself.

We do it all the time, makes future service events a snap. Just be sure to use a proper tool (we use a metal panel punch) and de-burr the opening when you are done.

A couple of small, but eminently salient points:

1. I did not see any "personal attacks", but I did see an appropriate reminder of the forum guidelines concerning posting protocols and decorum.

2. Everyone is entitled to their opinions, but at the end of the day, Loren's count a bit more; he owns the forum.

Have a nice day...................:rolleyes:

He already owns the solution to one of the major issues, the LN upgrade bearing. You can pull it from this engine and install it in another one without any issues, making the replacement basically bullet proof. If you did this swap, you would not be the first, several owners have moved the LN bearing from one engine to another without issue; in fact, some LN bearings are on their third "home".

If it were mine, and as nice as you say it is, I would start looking for a good replacement engine.................

"it would be very useful to anyone with an M96/97 from late 2005 on until the introduction of the shaft less replacement. On these engines, the IMS bearing cannot be changed without totally disassembling the cases..."

Good point. I don't think I've read about any IMS failures with those cars, so maybe the improvements have addressed the problem. If I had one, I would probably buy the IMS Guardian as there is no way to proactively upgrade the bearing.

The post 05's also suffer the failures.

First check under the car, this is a common problem area. Also below the console, check the small plastic ball that snaps on to the shifter (it can crack or split), also check the cable mounts to see if they have come loose.

Seems strange that it would say the pressure is both low and implausible (does not understand the input signal). First step would be a fuel pressure test to find out where the pressure really is; if it meets specs, clear the codes and see if they come back. If the pressure really is low, further investigation will be required, possible pump replacement.