JFP in PA

If memory serves, you Nav system will reset itself after short time. Pulling the fuses and or battery cable makes it act goofy for a bit, but it self corrects.

1. I think I'm pretty good with a Dremel and those amazing carborundum cutting wheels... but how will you get that bearing out with out ruining the bearing seat? Maybe a thin brass or steel liner to protect the seat? What about damaging the end of the IM shaft itself? How will you retrieve the pieces that fall as they are cut free?
   

I learned this trick from Jake Raby, and it works. From time to time, you encounter an OEM IMS bearing that falls apart when you try to extract it, leaving the outer race behind. You need to very carefully cut the outer race with the Dremel, usually in more than one spot, in order to get it out. Strong magnets and a good shop vac collect most, if not all, of the debris during the process, pulling the sump cover and flushing clean oil downwards get the rest. While not pretty, the method works; and I have yet to see an alternative way that is better.

We normally recommend against using any additives, simply because they are not necessary in these cars, and because you never know how they will react with the coolant mix.

The problem with using anything other than distilled water (about a $1 a gallon at any supermarket) is that it adds dissolved minerals to the system, which react with the coolant mix, potentially shortening its life, or causing other issues such as the type of sediment you are encountering.

Intermixes are usually not limited to a small amount located in one area of the system only; usually, when there is an intermix issue, the coolant looks a lot like hot chocolate, which does not appear to be your case (judging by what I can see of the contents of the tank).

But I do need to ask why you are using an aftermarket additive in a coolant mix that is very good on its own, but has a tendency to "not play well with others"; and why you are using "filtered water" when the spec is distilled water.......

Thanks for the reply....

The engine was replaced March 2005.....

No we're not sure whether the engine is worth trying to save..... It's worth a grand to him to find out.

OK, one vote for the dremmel with small wheel......

Problem is that when the IMS begins to "wobble", the car often jumps cam timing, resulting in bent or broke valves, pistons, etc. At that point, spending anything on the IMS retrofit is a waste of money; the engine needs to either be pulled and rebuilt, or replaced as it is "non-serviceable".

Before moving forward, we would pull the plugs and bore scope the engine to be sure you are not throwing good money at what is otherwise a boat anchor. If the engine shows any signs of piston/valve contact, you would be wasting your time and his money.

A couple of serious questions:

• What year was the new engine installed? Reason I ask is any replacement engine installed after 2005 has a unique "final solution" IMS bearing (has a 22MM center nut) that cannot be removed or replaced with the engine assembled (outer race is larger than the opening in the case).
• This looks like it failed while running; if it did, are you sure the engine is worth saving? Most are not......
• If the engine is 2005 or earlier, and the engine is actually salvageable, you may need to very carefully cut the outer race in a couple places with a Dremmel tool using the smallest cut off wheel in order to get it out. This will require using a combination of magnets and a good shop vac to catch as much of the cutting debris as possible so it does not remain in the engine. This may be your only way to get it out, if you (and the engine) are up for it...........

To return to the original focus of this thread, namely the apparent sizing difference in the later third radiator kits hoses; a company named Precision Chassis Works came out with a sharp solution in the form of a machined "spud" which is welded into the OEM aluminum hard line, resulting in a permanent and leak proof solution:

They sell the "spuds" for those with access/ability to weld aluminum, or offer finished lines for a bit more.

Their site.......

Generally, these codes are related as they indicate an overly rich condition (P1123 for bank 1-3, P1125 for bank 4-6). Common issues are too much fuel pressure (possible fuel pressure regulator) or one or more injectors leaking.

I'd also be concerned about your MAF value, 19.25 Kg/Hr seems like low air flow, more used to seeing around 29 Kg/Hr. You may want to carefully look at your intake system for blockages or constrictions, and perhaps give the MAF a cleaning.

I have a MY06 CS and was wondering if anyone knoew how many amps the 12V auxilary sockets provide. Just need the info for the two up front under the passenger dash, and the two in the cargo compartment. I am looking into after market tire pumps, since I have a collapsable spare, but no Porsche "tyre" pump.

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel....................

Because it's a lot easier to sit on my *** in the air conditioning than walk to the car parked outside in 110F heat and pull the panel off and look. I work in a tie and suit and was doing some e-shopping for a tire compressor.

Why give a ****ty NON - answer?

Because it was the correct one.......................... And being one of those that actually gets dirt under his nails fixing these cars for a living (in the heat), to my knowledge, all Cayenne’s have the same fuse rating on the lighter circuits, but I’ll let you enjoy the heat a little bit in order to find out what that rating is………..

I have a MY06 CS and was wondering if anyone knoew how many amps the 12V auxilary sockets provide. Just need the info for the two up front under the passenger dash, and the two in the cargo compartment. I am looking into after market tire pumps, since I have a collapsable spare, but no Porsche "tyre" pump.

Why not just look at the fuse rating for the circuit in your fuse panel....................

Hi, I've bought a new lighter assembly for Suncoast. It seems to have two parts: a lighted plastic ring and the actual lighter and metal socket.

Can someone tell me how to get the old assembly out? Do I need to take it out from behind (hope not).

Thanks.

No, the panel the lighter is in pops off so you can access the back components. Use something smooth, like a wooden tongue depressor, to pop the panel so you do not mar it or the dash and you will be fine..............

First, all IMS bearings, regardless of style, have some risk of failing, yours included. That is a documented fact. We have seen a couple, other shops have seen more than we have.

Now the really bad news: All M96/97 produced after 2005 (and even some 05's) carry the last revision IMS bearing which is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the assembled cases, making it impossible to change with totally disassembling the engine. LN Engineering produces an upgraded shaft for these engines, as described on their website, but disassembly is required to install it.

Sorry about that...............

The OEM lube is really just silicone grease; get a $3 tube of dielectric grease at your local parts store and you are in business.....................

Are you looking at "camshaft deviation" values on a Durametric or PIWIS system, or are you using some other methodology?

I think he means "caliper" and "rotor"............

Right now, there are not a lot of options available. While I am anything but a fan of aftermarket warranty products, if the dealer’s program is a sound one, it may be your best option.

Automated sequential manual gearboxes, such as the PDK, are pretty complicated. There are multiple sensors, actuators, and of course, lots of software to make this all work smoothly and without reducing everything to rubble. One of the major downsides to all this complicated technology is that there are a lot of potential failure points, any of which can stop the process cold. Added to this is the fact that these gearboxes are a world unto themselves when it comes to special diagnostic electronics, fixtures, and tooling required to disassemble or repair them in the field; and then you have to train personnel to do the diagnostics and repairs. The end result is that the dealers are often ill prepared to deal with issues, or spend a vast amount of time trying to figure out why the gearbox does or does not do some particular task. End result is that they try a quick software re-flash, and then pull the unit if that does not work. You also have to remember that dealers do not get reimbursed at their normal retail hourly rates on warranty work, so they don't want one of these to turn into the proverbial "hanger queen" on them either.

Porsche is not alone in this; I recently stopped a local Nissan dealer to pick up some parts, and they were trying to figure out why a brand new GT-R's version of the PDK would not shift when you hit the paddles manually. After two days of diagnostics and software re-treads went nowhere, they opted to pull & replace the gearbox, resulting in the car's owner having a fit and demanding a diminished value refund because the car would no longer be "numbers matching".

I know this doesn't do much to allay your concerns, but unfortunately it is the reality of this technology. As the owner of an independent shop, I am very concerned about how we are going to deal with these units when the cars are out of warranty; the potential costs for my shop to "be ready" are significant, particularly when it does not currently appear that the OEM's are going to do anything to share the technology, or even make parts available to the aftermarket. Down the road, a simple "pull it and replace it" approach is not going to be viable; I saw the replacement gearbox for that GT-R, the dealer's cost (what they would normally pay for it) was over $18,000………..

I've done some searching on this board (and others) and I'm trying to figure out what to look out for if my clutch is failing. I have an 03 996 TT with 29K miles. I wanted to know what the tell tales signs are of a clutch that needs replacing. I have had some creaking noise start coming out of my clutch pedal and it has a sort of weird feel when I depress the pedal (it just started recently.) However, when I drive, I can shift perfectly normal thru the gears. Can anyone shed some light on what to look for if a clutch is in fact going bad? my car is not a daily driver so I'm just exploring ideas...thanks!!

More likely, your problem is a noisy clutch return spring (under the dash), not uncommon and can be fixed. Do a search on the subject..............

Interestingly, there have been several on-line reports that some of the so-called Chinese PIWIS clones are actually pirated copies of older Durametric systems…….

Yeah, don't even think about a PIWIS, which leases for about $12,000 or so for the first year, look at the Durametric enthusiast package for less than $300............

Same procedure as bleeding your brake system w/ the exception that you remove/replace your brake hoses. I would suggest you check for leaks when your finished (duh).

They look good and are probably more 'stress resistant' but in everything I've read they offer no improvement regarding braking performance.

Thanks for the reply. Disappointing to hear no improvement. I understood they offered better pedel pressure when brakes were hot at track events. We will see. NASA-SE event in two weeks. Still fun to work on the car.

They do improve pedal pressure and feel, particularly under hard braking, but many think that SS lines will actually improve how the car brakes, which they cannot do. Response tends to be subjective, most like the change...............

While it may involve the MAF, more likely culprits are either vacuum leaks or a fuel pressure/volume issue. Both codes indicate that the air fuel ratio is on the lean side and the DME cannot richen it, so I'd start with looking for vacuum leaks (the most common cause) first. You can still pull and clean the MAF as well as that never hurts.

OMG, after reading this thread, and heretofore having purchased the MAF Cleaner, thinking a check engine light readout surmised it was necessary to clean it, I believe I'll do more harm than good, I don't think I will ever attempt it!

What code(s) are you getting?

Kind of throw’s a new light on all of the supposedly MAF related problems and codes when someone takes it out and leaves it on the bench and drives the car off with no apparent ill effects……………….

All manufacture’s build a dud from time to time, and the original price range or make does not matter. Regardless of the make, from time to time we see one car that simply breaks everything, sometimes twice, while others of the same vintage seem to have no problems at all. “Fecal matter occurs……”