JFP in PA

Question,

I've got this code (P0430) on my 2001 Boxster S, just turned 75,000 miles yesterday.

I've read through lots of earlier posts, so I'm clear on what the code is is. What I don't know, or am confused on is this; Bank 2 = Driver's Side (USA), Correct? Then which cat is faulty? The Exhaust Manifold Cat, (does the '02 have these) or the Other Cat?

What do they mean by "Before starter Catalytic convertor", "After Starter Catalytic convertor"?

It seems reasonable that 02 sensors at 75000 might need to be changed. Looking at the PET parts listing and diagram has me confused. :help:

Sorry for being such a dunce!

The image below should help you with which bank is which. P0430 is for cylinders 4-6:

As for the O2 sensors, they can be tested by themselves to make sure they are working. If they are good, or after you replace any faulty ones, clear all codes and road test the car for a prolonged period. If the P0430 code returns, your cat is toast...........

We have seen late MY '05's that have the "non serviceable" large diameter bearing. All MY '06's (or any earlier MY that had a replacement engine installed after 1/06) would definitely have the larger bearing, which requires total engine disassembly to replace.

Actually, Porsche transitioned to the larger diameter IMS bearing in late 2005, all 2006 (and on) cars or replacement engines have the larger bearing as well.

Anywhere from "not at all" to "very", depending upon the source of the intermix. It can come from a failing oil cooler (easy to replace and parts are about $200 or so), to either a popped sealing plug in the head, a bad head gasket, or a cracked head. The latter three are on the more expensive side..................

Transmission cases rarely fail, and are available as parts, but they are expensive. That said, “JB Weld” is not going to work, to fix your case, it needs to be disassembled and heliarc/TIG welded by a specialty welding shop that knows what they are doing……..

Actually, I'd start by getting the codes read and reporting back on what you find.............

do any of these fit 996 c4s 2003? i am planning to change IMS bearing to LN. do I need these or is LN kit sufficient?

You can safely and effectively change the IMS bearing to the LN version without any camshaft locking tools.

Wayne Dempsey of Pelican Parts has come up with an ingenious way of locking the sprocket on the IMS tube (which is behind the IMS flange,just on the other side of the engine case) by using three 25mm long set screws that get substituted for the IMS flange bolts. Those set screws press against the face of the sprocket (which is inside the engine, on the other side of the case) and prevent the sprocket from moving (or altering the timing). Simple, effective and fool proof, and you don't even have to find TDC and use a locking pin.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, while Wayne's idea should work well on a five chain motor, I still think that not locking a three chain engine at TDC and using at least one set of cam locking tools is running a significant risk. The TDC tool can be fabricated for a couple of bucks at most in materials (5/16 metal rod and a drawer knob for the other end), and the LN "install kit" has the TDC tool and the cam locking tool as well at a reasonable price. I would also bet that there is a good market for a used LN install kit once you are done.......

As long as the connector makes good electrical contact and is weather tight, you should be fine.............

The LN kit has everything you will need.

Not uncommon for the in car system so show low just after the car has been run. Let it sit on a level surface for a bit, say 30 min., and then re-check it, it should be back to where it was when you got done changing the oil.

Two possibilities:

Your cap is bad (those ending in “00” are known to be a problem, “04” is the latest revision)

You have a trapped air pocket in the cooling system, which is not a good thing. You need to either run a vacuum or atmospheric bleed (run a search for the procedures).

The first kit looks like a Baum B9612K, which is typically about $1K, so it is a pretty good deal.

Calibration is only required if you want to pass inspection and do not want to constantly have an annoying MIL light from the stability management system; so, yes, it typically is necessary and does require the use of a PIWIS system.

The Porsche tool 9656 is nothing more than a 5/16 metal rod with a knob on one end and a slight bevel cut on the other end. Cheap and easy to make for yourself.

You are short on options here; Porsche does not sell the connectors or sections of the harness, only the whole thing. You can try contacting Porsche wrecking yards to see if they can help, or simply make up your own connectors with stuff from somebody that makes weather proof connectors like Weather Pack

Why does my manual say to use 10w40 and other heavier weights for my 996? Most all info I've seen recently say 0w40 or 5w40 for the most part. New owner of 996. Have a 944 and the manual said 20w50. Why the weight changes from the past?

Because their focus changed from engine protection to Cafe fuel consumption figures..........

Depends upon what you are trying to accomplish; yes there are cheap, more universal alternatives, some starting around $40. But these units cannot run all of the Porsche specific diagnostics, and cannot clear many of the common trouble codes (air bags, PSM, ABS, etc.) that the brand specific Durametric can.

“Speed cost money; how fast do you want to go?”

Totally up to you. What you need to consider is that your road speed in that range is going to be around 70 MPH (+/- depending upon wheel/tire combo) and that a large number of owners are blissfully unaware of the harmonic zones and cruise for long periods at those speeds everyday without a problem. Track usage cars buzz past this range dozens of times every hour, again without issue.

The reality of the IMS issue is that, yes, they are somewhat prone to catastrophic failures, but currently at an unknown rate. What is known is that more frequent oil changes and usage of heavier weight oils seem to help. However, if the level of concern is high enough to cause you to alter how you use the car, or loss of sleep, there is also a known and proven fix for the problem…………….

All engines have some RPM zones that create harmonics; on the M96/97 it happens around 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. While there is some limited data that appears to indicate that it is not good for the IMS bearing, the fact that a lot of factory IMS bearing make it beyond 100,000 miles says the day to day risk exposure may not be great.

Many extended warranties turn out to not be worth the paper they are written on, or at best very difficult to enforce, so be very careful before you turn over your cash, you may find out you would have been better off saving it as a contingent for future repairs instead……..

The starter has to come out of the car to do this; either follow the service manual or do a search, removing the starter has been covered several times.

No, the windscreen is removed from the outside.

I'm not surprised as the Brockway R920 is a digital data display system popular with the Honda/Acura crowd................

Rather than going through this twice, why not just replace it? The OEM unit retails for about $20 or so...............

The wear monitor is only for the pads, the rotors do not affect it in any way. The rotors have to be measured manually.