JFP in PA

I live in Seattle washington and bought a used 2005 Boxster with 33,000 miles on it and it failed at a stop light while not moving and destroyed itself. Intermediate Shaft failure..the engine was frozen up. New reman costs 18K to redo. Car is worth 21K. Am looking to start a class action suite against Porsche. Anyone who is affected please call me I have a very good class action attorney.

Peter

Good luck...................

yes engine was on while i was filling Gas up

it seems i have to take it to dealer to remove the warning

You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake..............

Im not so sure that it dissaperas after a couple of driving cycles. IF the car has "EVAP system massive leak" the car has to light the warning up beacuse the ristriction of exhaust laws.

Not sure about the US cars but they have more laws about that so I think it is worse with US cars.

I hate to say "trust me", but you need to on this one. Leaving the car running while refueling gives you the same code (usually P0455) as leaving the gas cap off; “EVAP large leak”, which will clear itself in about 4-5 run cycles…………..

woooow JFP your the winner :P

i did exactlly what you said the sign was still on, but when i reached home turn off after an hour going out again start the engine sign OFF

thanks allloot B)

Glad I could be of help...............

Just to let members here know what Mobil had to say about Mobil 1 5w40 suitability

Which turned out to be nothing useful or of value. There was a time when 0W-40 Mobil 1 (and their other grades) were world class products; unfortunately, they no longer are………………….regardless of what their customer service people say.

I've seen more and more posts here and elsewhere regarding Mobil 1 is good, Mobil 1 is bad, use 5w40 instead of 0w40, etc. Most posts degenerate into opinion, speculation, ignorance or worse. So I looked on the Mobil 1 web site and found there are 2 Mobil 1 5w40 oils, one for diesel engines and another specifically formulated for Mercedes cars. Neither of these appear to be on Porsche's A40 approved oil list. So last night (Sunday) I asked Mobil which oil was suitable for use in Porsche cars:

I have several relatively new Porsches and have been using Mobil 1 0w40 in all of them. The Porsche technical service bulletin of A40 approved oils also lists Mobil 1 5w40 and shows worldwide availability. I've found Mobil 1 5w40 diesel oil and Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 for Mercedes cars. Are either of these approved for use in Porsche cars? I can't figure out which Mobil 1 5w40 Porsche has approved. Which should I be using? A lot of people are now recommending to use Castrol Syntec 5w40, or another synthetic 5w40, instead of the 0w40 weight oil, but I would rather use Mobil 1 if possible.

And this morning I actually got an answer back from them (their exact response, which indicates somebody answered and somebody else sent the answer back to me)

ExxonMobil wrote:

The Mobil1 0W40 motor oil is the suitable product.

--

Thank you for choosing ExxonMobil products.

If you need further assistance, please contact ExxonMobil at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL

I hope this helps some decide whether or not Mobil 1 0w40 is suitable for (continued) use and reduces some of the less useful oil discussions. I'm neither advocating nor impugning the use of Mobil 1 or 0w40 oils, just reporting what Mobil responded to me.

"Becasue we told you so............." Now there is a sound argument with a lot of technical facts to back it up.............

yes engine was on while i was filling Gas up

it seems i have to take it to dealer to remove the warning

You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake..............

Im not so sure that it dissaperas after a couple of driving cycles. IF the car has "EVAP system massive leak" the car has to light the warning up beacuse the ristriction of exhaust laws.

Not sure about the US cars but they have more laws about that so I think it is worse with US cars.

I hate to say "trust me", but you need to on this one. Leaving the car running while refueling gives you the same code (usually P0455) as leaving the gas cap off; “EVAP large leak”, which will clear itself in about 4-5 run cycles…………..

yes engine was on while i was filling Gas up

it seems i have to take it to dealer to remove the warning

You triggered an "EVAP system massive leak" CEL by not turning the engine off while refilling. These cars have a closed loop vapor control system on the fuel tank, running the car with out the gas cap makes it look like a vacuum leak. It should eventually clear itself after several running cycles if you do not repeat the mistake..............

So can I just put the porsche brand coolant without mixing them with the distilled water or it has to be watered down? 4 gallons of porsche coolant only?

thanks it's a 2002 carrera 2

No, the Porsche coolant is concentrated and must be mixed 50/50 with distilled water before use.............

I may be changing the water pump and want to replace the coolant with new one. How much should I get? 2 gallons?

3 gallons?

thanks in advance!

joel

You didn't say which model you have, but in general you should be fine with two gallons; also buy two gallons of distilled water (about a buck at any supermarket) and pre-mix with the Porsche antifreeze before adding to the car. You will have a small quantity of the mix left over, which is fine for "top ups". If you are interested, you can also obtain the vacuum fill tool that Porsche sells for over $500 for about $100 online, just google "Uview" (they make the tool for Porsche, but also sell it under their name; come with adaptors to fit just about anything with a cooling system). The the vacuum fill tool, you can recharge the cooling system with no fear of air pockets in about 5 min..................

II still see no definitive statement that it actually holds any ACEA ratings, only that he "recommends" a product that "would satisfy ACEA".........more marketing verbiage. You should ask him if it actually holds ACEA ratings, and when it received them..........because I already know what the answer will be................

They have been playing this “legally acceptable terminology” game for years………..

I'm satisfied that is meets the standard. I could care less whether they paid ACEA to rate it. The important fact is that it does meet it.

PS - The same goes for the Porsche "rated" tires. Who cares, except those selling the Porsche rated tires.

PPS - We're obviously not going to change each other's mind. I'm done with the discussion. :beer:

I just thought you'd like to know you are being lied to, but I guess I was wrong................

Just to keep stirring the pot: :rolleyes:

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, our products are not submitted or blessed by Porsche but certainly are suitable. Our oils do satisfy various ACEA requirements.

In the older Porsche engines with flat tappet cams some additional anti-wear may be required over the current API SM certified oils 600 to 800 ppm phosphorus limit. The current phosphorus limit for diesel CJ-4, CI-4 oils is less than 1200 ppm phosphorus, not significantly changed from previous oils, an oil submitted initially for the diesel certification should have sufficient ZDDP anti-wear protection for older engines. Our Motor Oils typically contain 1200 ppm phosphorus except the diesel oils which contain 1175 ppm, significant anti-wear protection and sufficient for Porsche engines.

In your Cayenne I would recommend the 5W40, it would satisfy the ACEA A3, B4, E9 requirements or the 0W40 which would satisfy the A3, B3/B4 requirements, I certainly wouldn't expect any mechanical problems nor warranty issues with their use.

Glad to hear the products are performing well in your Mercedes, they will perform well in your Porsche also.

Regards, Dave

Red Line Oil

II still see no definitive statement that it actually holds any ACEA ratings, only that he "recommends" a product that "would satisfy ACEA".........more marketing verbiage. You should ask him if it actually holds ACEA ratings, and when it received them..........because I already know what the answer will be................

They have been playing this “legally acceptable terminology” game for years………..

BTW...bearing checked out good at 84K miles so I'm just going to replace the flange seal and call it good.

I have read a lot about IMS, but I don't really know what it actually does. Can someone explain it.

Thanks,

The IMS essentially takes the timing from the crank and send it out to the cams. The IMS sits below the crank in the engine. There is a chain that goes from the crank to the IMS. The IMS has two other chains that transfer the timing to the cams. The back one (by the bearing, flywheel side) that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 1-3. The other end of the IMS has a chain that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 4-6 (this end also runs the oil pump). If the bearing fails, the IMS has no support in the rear and the chains can/will jump timing. This timing jump causes the pistons to strike the valves and mayhem ensues, causing a total engine failure.

Rick

99 996C4

87 944S

What have they changed in the 987/997 engine design that eliminates this problem?

They eliminated the IMS shaft entirely in 2010............

and the “recommendations” are those of Redline marketing………………

That's good enough for me. :clapping:

That being the case, I’m sure you will get the outcome you so richly deserve………….

No, because it has no ACEA ratings (never submitted)................... I'd use Castrol Syntec 10W-40 which has ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings.

Really? The following are quotes from the Redline website:

For 0W40:

"Recommended for water-cooled Porsche and Mercedes-Benz 229.5/229.51 applications"

"Recommended for API SM/SL/SJ/SH/SG/CF and ACEA A3/B4"

For 5W40:

"As specified for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche and VW applications"

"Recommended for API SM/CJ-4/CI-4/CI-4 PLUS

Also recommended for ACEA A3/B4/E9"

I don't think they'd mention those ratings without being pretty sure they meet them. Wanna bet they their oils do meet the spec, but they've just never spent the money to formally get them listed?

PS - I am biased, as I use Redline 5W40 in my Transsybera (GTS) V8.

Reread what you quoted from Redline, you will note the "recommended", which is the verbiage that their marketing department came up with after ACEA called them on making ACEA rated claims that simply are not true. According to ACEA, Redline had never submitted products for independent verification of passing ACEA ratings. So, no, they do not have ACEA ratings, never did; and the “recommendations” are those of Redline marketing………………

RL seems to provide better protection than M1 but it's not on the porsche approved oil list though...

Mobil 1 0W-40 technical data:

Viscosity @ 40C – 78.3

Viscosity @ 100C – 14.0

HTHS @ 150C – 3.7

Pour Point (Celsius) – No manufacturer data available

Red Line 5W-40 Synthetic

Viscosity @ 40C – 94.0 (Thickest oil @ 40C)

Viscosity @ 100C – 15.1

HTHS @ 150C – 4.6 (Shears the least)

Pour Point (Celsius) – (-)45

No, because it has no ACEA ratings (never submitted)................... I'd use Castrol Syntec 10W-40 which has ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings.

Thanks Charles, I stand duly corrected……………..

Could anyone tell me where to buy a 160 degree thermostat for a 2000 996 with out buying the houseing with it. LN Engineering sells the thermo and houseing as a unit; so why would I need another houseing? Along with that, I do believe it would be a good upgrade. Anybody got any ideas?

LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............

Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it?

I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching……….

I called LN and said they do not sell them septratly. Where now?

Interesting, as they had been offering them to shops that way, and selling the required tool as well. Perhaps it wasn’t a financially attractive approach.

Currently, LN/Raby are the only ones I know of offering them in North America (and I have looked), so I guess you are stuck with the housing………….

[/b]

And your impression of the car was??????????????? :unsure:

I absolutely loved it. I’ve owned turbo’s in the past; this was a very impressive car. It was also a PDK car, which is one reason I wanted to drive it, and I have to say that I was very impressed, and unthreatened by this new technology. I sincerely feel that my current 6-speed may just be my last……

To answer one of your original suppositions, it is also my understanding that the PDK will be the “standard” transmission offered on the 2010 Turbo, with the 6-speed being an option………

I read that the 2010 Turbo S will now be offereed only in coupe form in addition to only PDK. Any truth to this? Any additional information on the model?

Having recently driven a 2010 turbo cab, I'd have to say your are incorrect..................

You should consider the Castrol Full Synthetic 5w-40 or 10w-40. Both are easy to find. ;)

The 5w-40 is on the Porsche approved list while the 10w-40 is not. B)

What is on their vaunted “approved list” tends to be overly thin “W” weights that do not hold up well. 10W-40, from years of UoA’s collected on customer cars, is just fine……………

Could anyone tell me where to buy a 160 degree thermostat for a 2000 996 with out buying the houseing with it. LN Engineering sells the thermo and houseing as a unit; so why would I need another houseing? Along with that, I do believe it would be a good upgrade. Anybody got any ideas?

LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............

Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it?

I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching……….

I can easly find 5W-30 full synthetic but not 5W-40. Is there much difference between the two or am I good to go with 5W-30?

5W-30 is a bit too thin, you should be using something that is "X"W-40. Look for a 10W-40 full synthetic with the right ACEA ratings.

Could anyone tell me where to buy a 160 degree thermostat for a 2000 996 with out buying the houseing with it. LN Engineering sells the thermo and houseing as a unit; so why would I need another houseing? Along with that, I do believe it would be a good upgrade. Anybody got any ideas?

LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............

Ohh I forgot the mention, I live in the bay area in CA, It rarely gets below 30 degrees and above 95 degrees. Should I use 5W40 or 10W40?

We use 10W-40 year round; the outside air temp at the shop is currently 22F.....................you will be fine with 10W-40.

Basically, the top 3 inches down from the edge of the top windshield gasket are clear of the metallic film all the way across the glass................ So just mount the unit up high and you will be fine.

I am looking for a reasonably priced Porsche Specialist to perform the IMS bearing upgrade on my 2003 996 C2/Tiptronic with 15,000. Someone in the Melbourne to West Palm Beach area. Anybody have an expert in mind? Let me know. Thanks!

Thanks for all the great help I get from this forum!! :renntech:

Why not contact Jake Raby at FlatSix and find out who in your area has taken his training course on how to do the upgrade.................